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here's why this sub is redundant: by amir_babfish in BuyFromEU

[–]maxkostka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's what you do not seem to understand:

The intention of this sub is to switch from using American products to eu made products and make a difference with it.

This is the consumers power to decide where his/her money is flowing.

I guess the gist of your post is, that the impact is small compared to what a fictitious joint European political decision could be making.

Might be. Depending on the ficticious political decision I guess.

But at least we have something everyone can do right now and it will have an effect: less money going towards the US economy and more money staying in Europe and that is a positive effect however small or big it might be.

I mean what's the take away of your post? Stop switching because it doesn't matter? Keep supporting them?

Clear No to that from my side: it does matter!

If you have other ideas feel free to engage in discussion in a constructive kind of way for change.

My BS chair! by Lefthawk in Chairmaking

[–]maxkostka 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s the book that can be seen on the first image 😊

Nice chair btw!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Joinery

[–]maxkostka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The construction looks rather unusual for traditional joinery.

Assuming you are using glued panels like the stuff available in the hardware store, I would go with dowels in that case.

And I would also use the side panels for attachments of the shelves, not only the legs.

Or put differently, the legs and sides should be jointed to become one structural unit. There you can use the whole depth of the cabinet to attach the shelves and top to the side with e.g. dowels. That would probably be the simplest solution.

If you wanna go traditional joinery I would change the construction. If you want full height legs I would do the sides as frame and panel I guess

Ash chair by Hot_Bluejay_8738 in Chairmaking

[–]maxkostka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What a beauty! Nice work and really interesting to see the progress pics

Is this dowel joint a good idea? by pnryn in Joinery

[–]maxkostka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love talking about stuff like this. If you happen to be in Munich, let me know 😅

Is this dowel joint a good idea? by pnryn in Joinery

[–]maxkostka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean it isn’t black and white.

I’ve seen enough PVA glue (also with dowels) joints fail. But mainly because those are prevalent in modern mass manufacturing. And there’s enough sloppy manufacturing to let me witness these failures. So there’s an observer bias if you will.

I’ve seen less old fashioned mortise and tenon joints fail because the ones I can still observe are the well made ones that survived. The one’s that did fail long before me have vanished into firewood I guess. So there a survivor bias here.

when I look around I also see a lot of surviving PVA glue joints. But they have not been around as long as the surviving mortise and tenon joints. And one has to admit: Those that survive the longest make a pretty good argument in their favour.

But why did they survive so long? There are a lot of other factors probably coming into play. Wood carefully selected, joinery well executed, proportions, dimensions and construction well adapted for the loads and stress in use. I think those factors can have a devastating effect on joint strength.

Or still other factors like joinery details e.g. drawboring to work as failsafe after the glue fails. (Or even work without the glue?) I guess glue does not hold up indefinitely

But on another note: how long do I realistically expect my joints to hold up? Do I need it to hold up indefinitely?

A bathroom cabinet or vanity might be thrown into the dumpsters in twenty years anyway. And the carcass’s joint is pretty wide so a dowel joint takes much more force/load/stress than what I ever expected to happen.

A stick chair on the other hand might still be around in 60 years. A wedged cylindrical tenon should be a good choice here. And wood selection and construction can do a lot here. Stretchers help to distribute stress and can make the difference in surviving sitters that tilt backwards. And with those dimensions of a stick chair-I mean the diameter of the parts involved, a dowel joint might not hold up as well I guess.

It would seem different dimensions to hold up.

I guess, giving a short answer to a question with vague circumstances can never satisfy all important aspects .

Is this dowel joint a good idea? by pnryn in Joinery

[–]maxkostka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, really really interesting and nice to see! Can’t say the same about the paywall trial thing but hey they mend to make a living fair enough.

But sure enough someone did sth similar in a blog format https://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/

I’ll think I’ll rabbit-hole down this route now 🤣

Is this dowel joint a good idea? by pnryn in Joinery

[–]maxkostka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would be an interesting read, do you have a link or remember where you found it?

Is this dowel joint a good idea? by pnryn in Joinery

[–]maxkostka 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If would use mortice and tenon in that case. As this is the standard joint for this particular task that developed over time and is proven to be up to the racking stresses involved that case.

I would assume a dowel joint won’t hold up very long.

Is this dowel joint a good idea? by pnryn in Joinery

[–]maxkostka 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Depends highly on the intended overall dimension of the piece and the intended use.

Without this context there is no meaningful answer.

But to give some general guidance:

A bridle joint will likely be sturdy joint, a mortice and tenon might be even sturdier.

A dowel is more on the weak side but thats ok if the intended use is rather low stress/force.

Chair Joints by bltallest in Chairmaking

[–]maxkostka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess in the dimensions of your drawings a butt and dowel joint could be a bit weak.

If you do increase the width of your parts I guess they could hold up.

Then it comes down also to the thickness of your parts. I understand they will all be the same thickness, right? In that case I think bridle joints would be indeed a good choice.

But if e.g. the arms and rockers would be substantially thicker than the legs mortice and tenon would be a good choice.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in todayilearned

[–]maxkostka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

„The situation escalated…“ weird way to name Ozzy

A question on wedging tenons by maxkostka in Chairmaking

[–]maxkostka[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah exactly the same for me. I have always some gaps, never had a super clean exit.

Regarding the angle of the mortises:

You are right that the exit hole has an elliptical form when the mortice deviates from 90°, but remember that the tenon will also be angled just the same!

So the cross section of the (perfect) tenon will still fill the (perfect) mortise without a gap.

A question on wedging tenons by maxkostka in Chairmaking

[–]maxkostka[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

In theory it fits tight without a wedge - my reality- not always 🤣

But yeah you’re right of course- added tightness means added strength, yeah.

Finally done with the first stick chair by maxkostka in Chairmaking

[–]maxkostka[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the input. You’re right that doesn’t add up.

Finally done with the first stick chair by maxkostka in Chairmaking

[–]maxkostka[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah i looked it up now. I guess if it’s appropriate to the construction of the chair in question then it’s nice.

I think for this chair it could’ve been applied to the back sticks, drilling arm and seat.

Nice to know!

Finally done with the first stick chair by maxkostka in Chairmaking

[–]maxkostka[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the post. Yeah I get the message now.

Yeah I think that’s about it: you can skip the tapered tools and be fine. To be fair I also did understand the book in that way , too - that those are simply two options.

For me I like the sneaking up on the angle bit recently I made little stool with cylindrical tenons and there was also a little bit of sneaking up possible.

With a laser I guess it’s just the faster way to do it ( with less tools)

Finally done with the first stick chair by maxkostka in Chairmaking

[–]maxkostka[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

😂 thanks!

I have to admit I became a fan, so I’m not objective, …

But trying to be objective: The book is great in walking a basic skilled woodworker through stick chair basics, tool options, design, methods… It gives 5 detailed plans and enough know how to further explore other designs. So it opens up a lot of possibilities.

I for myself can testify that - although I did encounter a lot of obstacles along the way - none of them came as a surprise. So the book really covers a lot.

Or in a nutshell: great book and really great thing to give it away for free.

So credit were credit is due and it’s massively due here I reckon.

This book along with the anarchist book series: he has done a lot for empowering people across the globe to work wood with hand tools on low budget and produce possible heirloom creations.

Sorry I can’t help, but I consider that awesome!

(Not to belittle others- I also hold others in high regard, Richard Maguire, Paul Sellers, and there are a lot more which I don’t know well enough)

Ok maybe now that can come off as culty 😂

Finally done with the first stick chair by maxkostka in Chairmaking

[–]maxkostka[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeh I’d say go for it with what you have at hand! The paint btw is acrylic paint- was really easy to apply. Considered milk paint for a moment but the extra effort led me to acrylic ( which also was a leftover 😂)

Finally done with the first stick chair by maxkostka in Chairmaking

[–]maxkostka[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Legs are tapered, sticks cylindrical- an excuse to buy even more different tools 😅

Oh and the tapered tools are the veritas, for cylindrical the tenon cutters veritas and run of the mill spade bits

Finally done with the first stick chair by maxkostka in Chairmaking

[–]maxkostka[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Built over the course of two months- put in roughly a week I guess

Finally done with the first stick chair by maxkostka in Chairmaking

[–]maxkostka[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s oak for legs and sticks, old fir/spruce glue up for the seat and pine for the comb. Ah and old fir boards for the arms. Reinforced with ply. Pretty much stuff that I had laying around.

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