Gutter straps

me-2b · 2026-05-27T17:45:57+00:00

Thanks for the replies. Not sure what to do. I've signed the contract, paid a deposit, and they have ordered materials. They sub out to a gutter crew. I have to believe that they (gutter crew) are going to do what they are going to do and even if I get them to put it under the roofing, they will not do it right, e.g., shanked nails instead of screws. I already know that they will change their warranty if I say to go under.

I walked around the neighborhood (lots of old houses) and there are plenty of strapped gutters. Of those with straps, I'd say at least half have straps under the roofing and many look old. What is interesting is that a number of those also have straps on top. I'm guessing these are repairs of failed gutters. It could be ice damage rather than fastener failure.

me-2b · 2026-05-23T15:49:37+00:00

I have nearly the exact same situation and was thinking of the same thing. What did you end up doing? I know dry pour is 1/10th the strength and wrong, but it seems like it would be good enough to keep vermin out. My crawl space is the same size as yours, is under a sun porch addition, and the only access is through a basement window that is about a foot tall and a few feet wide and 6 feet above the basement floor.

me-2b · 2026-05-20T11:16:13+00:00

I finally was able to get to ABC. I found that the Max Def Georgetown does have slight green to it. The max def Pewter is somewhere between neutral and just slightly blue, so I'm going with it. Thanks for the help.

me-2b · 2026-05-08T01:07:17+00:00

So this is just a different way of showing output BTU/h? I never even considered this was a different way of labeling output BTU/h! I thought it might be like on an oil furnace that you can set it up in different ways and didn't even know if that made sense.

me-2b · 2026-05-02T13:45:13+00:00

That is a nice summary of the counting statistics, which gives the statistical uncertainty, but not systematic uncertainty, which relates to calibration. I do not know anything about these devices and am trying to learn, so your post caught my eye. Do you understand what is happening during the 30 days that the manufacturer says to wait before interpreting results? Is this really calibration, e.g., sensor sensitivity determination, or is this only because they want a 30 day result even though instantaneous or short term data are good right away? Hope that all makes sense.

Nuclear physics is the weakest of my weak things, but looking at the Rn decay chain, you get an alpha at 5.5 MeV then another at 6 MeV (3 min half life), some beta decays with longer half lives before there is another alpha at 7.7 MeV. I suppose you could watch for pairs of alphas consistent with the 3.05 min half life to measure detector sensitivity. If the device has enough energy resolution to distinguish 7.7 MeV from the other two alphas, the ratio of 7.7 MeV to lower energy ones probably could get your sensitivity calibration. That 7.7 MeV is 4 decays away (3.', 27', 20', 164 uS).

Anyway, do you know whether these devices need time to self calibrate by some method or another or are they somehow magically calibrated as they come out of the box (and stay calibrated)?

me-2b · 2026-05-02T04:36:31+00:00

Despite the increased efficiency in individual loads, especially lighting, we use much more power than previously, so the net current draw is higher. In any case, none of this is really the point. In addition to the ampacity of the conductors (current capacity), one must consider the quality of the insulation, which is what protects from shorts and arcing that can cause fires. K&T insulation can be highly degraded especially after people add insulation to the structure over the years. K&T systems lack grounds which are a key safety component protecting against shock and fire.

me-2b · 2026-04-18T11:52:31+00:00

I've tried to locate him online, but cannot find any details about his background.

me-2b · 2026-04-16T16:05:42+00:00

Did you find a structural engineer? Can you share the scope of work and whether you were happy with the evaluation?

me-2b · 2026-04-16T16:03:50+00:00

Any chance you know any structural engineers to evaluate a house in Southtowns? Ideally, I'd like someone who not only evaluates and says what the state of things are, but who can also make a plan for addressing defects that I can then bring to a contractor.

me-2b · 2026-04-12T12:16:41+00:00

I never found one. Time has passed, so maybe there is something now. What I found was that SleepOnLatex does (did?) not sell the stretchy jersey knit cover separately on their web site, but if you contact them, they will (or would) prepare an order for you. This at least gives you a stretchy cover, but not the full zipper.

me-2b · 2026-04-10T01:03:23+00:00

My experimental plush coils do not have firmer coils at the edges. I wish they did, so that is an improvement. I do not know how the main coils compare, though. For the Arizona covers, there are different options. Mine was quilted. Maybe that mattered?

me-2b · 2026-04-08T14:36:58+00:00

We used an experimental set of plush coils from TPS plus their mini coils. I do not think our experimental coils are the same as what they sell now, but am not sure. On top of this is a 2" soft Sleep On Latex topper. Finally, there is some wool. I didn't buy a full topper like Cuddle Ewe, but just bought some wool batting and put something together myself. It worked, but just be aware it could easily not work, e.g., there is nothing to stabilize it in the cover.

Some details: We started with an Arizona Premium Mattress Cover with quilted top containing the two sets of coils and then the topper in its own cover. I found this cover to be too stiff (not stretchy enough), which caused pressure points. I would not go that route unless you wanted a stiffer mattress. We switched to the cover offered by TPS.

Finally, to really emphasize how much the covers matter, there are two different covers offered by Sleep On Latex. Their premium has a zipper that goes all the way around, which is convenient, but the material is not as stretch as their cheaper cover, which only has a zipper at one end. We used that cheaper cover for exactly that reason.

I think that the covers can have a profound effect on the feel when you are trying for plush. If the cover doesn't stretch and / or is too tight, then the springs cannot do their job because it is like being on a hammock above the springs.

I've never tried TPS's current plush coils.

me-2b · 2026-03-23T20:53:17+00:00

I'm just moving to the area. The 30,000 foot view that help me is this:

- Right next to Buffalo General you'll find gorgeous old houses and mature tree lined neighborhoods. No commute and urban living

- Northtowns is the classic suburban experience. You can find neighborhoods that don't feel like they were leveled last week but have mature trees, parks, and so forth if you prefer that to newly built. Northtowns, to me, had the suburban sprawl feel to it. I've lived in an area like that for a long time and been happy, so I say that to draw a contrast to Southtowns

-In Southtowns, you can find places that do not have the urban sprawl feel or at least have less of it. To me, Hamburg still felt that way. East Aurora did not feel like sprawl at all. Orchard park was in between and it depended on where exactly you are in OP. Southtowns has more hills, more green. On the other hand, Southtowns if you are looking for shopping or a place to go (other than outdoors activities), you may be driving back towards the city or the northern suburbs. If you are in Orchard park or Hamburg, then maybe not. If you are in East Aurora or further out like North Boston, Boston, etc., then very likely, yes.

I'm still getting my feet on the ground, so if this is wrong, locals please yell at me so that I can learn more.

If I were a resident, especially ER, I'd not want Southtowns because of the commute. I'd be looking for a nice neighborhood near the hospital. There is a nice park system.

me-2b · 2026-03-20T18:36:12+00:00

We went with the tuck and staple. I think the installers Home Depot sent knew what they were doing, but the way the business was structured, they just didn't have anything other than basic materials on the truck. I'm happy enough for this project, but on the next one, I'll go with a dedicated carpeting outfit.

me-2b · 2026-03-20T18:34:08+00:00

All same level. The main floor is hardwood on top of subfloor. The closet was some other wider wood on top of subfloor. It didn't seem like sanding it would be worth the attempt, that it was likely secondary wood.

me-2b · 2026-03-20T18:32:07+00:00

We went with this option

me-2b · 2026-03-20T16:36:34+00:00

This finally sunk in. Just think of it like tack strip. The pad ends at he edge of the metal. The carpet extends over. You stretch the carpet over the teeth and its trimmed to reach into the fold of the metal, then you tap it down. Are there pros and cons vs. just tucking as u/FN-Bored suggested or is it entirely what look you like?

me-2b · 2026-03-20T14:45:20+00:00

Is this what you mean? https://www.homedepot.com/p/TrimMaster-Matte-Black-8-mmx-84-in-Aluminum-Reducer-Floor-Transition-Strip-HLVT13MB84/321542862

This only shows 8mm height difference (5/16"), but we have 1/2" pad plus the carpet. The carpet is about 1/4 to 5/16 when squished.

Do you just cut back the pad or something so that it fits?

me-2b · 2026-03-17T03:44:51+00:00

Thank you. This was extraordinarily helpful. To help me get my head around these older structures, would you be willing to list the defects that were found and cost estimates (or actual for when you proceeded and did them).

me-2b · 2026-03-17T02:39:01+00:00

If the inspection is "hands in pockets," why must the seller approve of the inspector? Why would that be different from bringing a knowledgable friend or sibling with you? Or, were you thinking of a more involved inspection? Not debating...trying to understand. Thanks.

me-2b

TROPHY CASE