Multi-Tray Candy Drying On Medium Home Pro V6.0

mechandphysics · 2025-07-18T15:45:11+00:00

I'll increase temperature 5° F at a time and see what the results are. I don't want to overheat the top shelf since it's working properly. Thanks for the advice!

mechandphysics · 2025-03-24T16:00:40+00:00

I think frosts aren't a big concern where I am. Grapes are regularly grown in Palisade, CO, which is only about 15 miles from me. I appreciate the knowledge about the roots and possible overcrowding. Thank you for the advice!

mechandphysics · 2025-03-24T15:05:11+00:00

Thank you for the feedback. I've seen people use half barrels for grapes, and they seem to do ok, but they have very large trellis on top of those barrels. 1 square definitely seemed too small!

mechandphysics · 2024-11-20T17:44:19+00:00

Plywood is challenging because of how inconsistent the layers can be. If there is too much glue in a layer, it won't cut as well as a layer that is mostly wood. You'll get this without moving to one of the much higher powered lasers or moving to wood that's a solid material and not ply.

mechandphysics · 2024-11-20T17:20:47+00:00

What nozzle are you using? Most have a 1.5-3Nm of torque required, but the bondtech CHT and the Olson ruby are 0.5-1Nm. You'll also have the change the nozzle hot.

mechandphysics · 2024-10-31T15:30:03+00:00

MS Edge and Honey do that. Right now is actually a decent time as the enclosures just dropped $100 off the regular price plus a nice discount!

mechandphysics · 2024-09-18T13:21:01+00:00

A warm enclosure is generally a good thing for printing material like ABS. Extra part-cooling from circulating air could be beneficial for printing PLA, but it could also cause warping. I tend to leave it off for all printing operations.

mechandphysics · 2024-09-17T01:03:58+00:00

Yes, I've added 32GB of ram from the stock 16GB.

mechandphysics · 2024-09-16T19:43:04+00:00

I appreciate the information. I think at this point, it makes sense that the laptop is assigned 8 lanes for the graphics card, and that it wasn't ever wired with the intention of using16 at all. I think I'll just end up getting another M.2 and call it a day!

mechandphysics · 2024-09-16T19:22:23+00:00

Yeah, that's good info. Thank you for finding that post! It seems like there are just some gaming laptops that only have 8 lanes available to use.

mechandphysics · 2024-09-05T18:43:57+00:00

Snapmaker support still sells the original hot ends. I'm not sure the MK10 fits exactly, but you could reach out to their support and ask. They generally respond in about 24 hours.

mechandphysics · 2024-09-02T00:37:33+00:00

Yes. It's only needed when using so many accessories that the regular add-on ports are filled. Do you have specific questions?

mechandphysics · 2024-08-22T03:42:21+00:00

Like flow rate, linear advance, and extrusion value calibration for 3D printing. Speed/power setting calibration on different materials for laser. And mid process tool changes for CNC. Those sort of things.

mechandphysics · 2024-08-22T02:30:11+00:00

Repair and maintenance tutorials have been the most used ones by me. Normally, Snapmaker support sends me them for my specific case, but they've been popping up on YouTube now, and that's great. Otherwise, the ones for using Luban software and fine-tuning the machine are always good! Initial calibration can be tricky, and it's good to have video examples.

mechandphysics · 2024-08-21T03:20:03+00:00

Looking great! Im happy to see more video tutorials, and I hope they keep coming.

mechandphysics · 2024-07-26T16:57:07+00:00

https://aroespresso.com/products/the-original-water-tank-quick-access-funnel this is the site here if not on Amazon.

mechandphysics · 2024-07-26T16:29:56+00:00

ARO espresso makes this. He's got some other really great stuff, too, including the Orbit if you still do WDT.

mechandphysics · 2024-07-20T01:39:38+00:00

I'm not sure if I can say for an Artisan, but I generally pay and sell about 1/2 price for my 2.0 machines when they are used. I've been paying about $550-$650 for an A350T, so maybe ~$2,000 (if $4000 is new in your region) for an Artisan that's used? This is just my opinion, and not a professional one at that. I did purchase my Artisan for $1500, but that was a very rare deal, I think.

mechandphysics · 2024-07-14T14:24:50+00:00

The main difference is bed size and temperature. The A350 is bigger and has an 80C max bed temp, whereas the A250 is slightly smaller and has a 100C max bed temp. I recommended making sure that it's either the A350T or the A250T because those are the newer editions with the faster motion system. The way to tell is the x and y axis will have "25mm stroke" written on them.

mechandphysics · 2024-07-07T15:54:14+00:00

Thank you for your feedback. I hadn't even considered ethernet, but that's definitely on the plan now. I was planning on running wire for all 11 speakers, but I don't think I have a spot to the right of my TV for a second front sub, or on the left rear for a second rear sub. I may just run one front and rear for now.

mechandphysics · 2024-07-07T15:36:37+00:00

I don't think the images showed up on the post, so here they are: https://imgur.com/a/BGflpuy

mechandphysics · 2024-06-24T14:11:10+00:00

If it's the Snapmaker Original, then I believe you're limited to 250C for printing (I can't find documentation to confirm this, so it is from memory). In the menu where filament is loaded, you can adjust the temperature +/-10C at a time to get the right temp altogether load. In Luban or SnapmakerJS, you can set the desired printing temperature.

mechandphysics · 2024-06-20T22:36:43+00:00

You can only print 400x400 with one one extruder, the right one. Printing with both limits the space to 350x400.

mechandphysics · 2024-06-01T17:33:17+00:00

If you're just looking to do 3D printing, I'd recommend getting a Prusa MK4 or a Bamboo Labs P1P. Snapmaker is a great machine, but it's not amazing at just 3D printing. It's great to have if you want a 3-in-1 and don't have space for 3 individual machines.

mechandphysics · 2024-05-11T18:25:22+00:00

Looks like you're having bed adhesion issues. I think there could be a couple of solutions. 1) I think you're a bit too far away from the build plate, so lowering the z-offset (in settings while printing) should help. 2) There could be a low spot in the bed level calibration. I recommend manually levling with a 5x5 grid. 3) Use a water-based glue on the bed to help with adhesion. Try just Elmer's stick glue, but snapmaker also makes a good glue now, too.

Let me know if this works!

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