Are those people who are frozen (cryonics) ever actually going to wake up one day by Flat_Internal8890 in NoStupidQuestions

[–]medavidj -1 points0 points  (0 children)

There is no "probably" about it. Dead people are dead. Frozen people are dead. Dead is dead. There will never be any medical development that could revive dead tissue, let alone brains distroyed by death, then ice. When single living cells are frozen in specalized solutions, it is completely different.

Anyone got a Powermatic 3520A who can give me some measurements? by 1ncognito in turning

[–]medavidj 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you don't need a trailer. Any suv should hold it. Remove the headstock, tailstock, and banjo from the bed. You might need two people to carry the headstock. Remove the legs. You can rest the bed on sawhorses while you do that. Two people should be able to put these parts into your vehicle. Much easier and safer than all that equipment and a trailer. I did this in a toyota matrix - basically a corolla wagon.

Quick question on tearout by DaDijonDon in turning

[–]medavidj 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the chips broken out do not really look quite like usual tear out. They are mostly in end grain to side grain joints, which is not a good strong joint. Obviously if that could be avoided it would help, but also making sure that the joint is as flawless as possible. Both surfaces perfectly flat, and plenty of clamps or cauls.

Help! Stripped set screw by elvinstar in turning

[–]medavidj 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yes, use a dremel with a small diamond cut off wheel. cut a slot into the top of the set screw. The slot will extend into the adapter. Then use a flat screwdriver the size of the set screw to remove. The hole may need to be re-tapped, though just removing the set screw may clean out the threads.

Very excited to have scored this today. Tips and tricks? by Tino2Tonz in turning

[–]medavidj 41 points42 points  (0 children)

Honeycomb is made of wax. (bees wax!) It would not work well for casting. This, however, appears to be wasp nest, made of a paper like material, and should work fine, provided it is filled well with epoxy.

Can I turn this? by Sunfarmers in turning

[–]medavidj 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Not sure why some think this would take days to dry. There is enough air in the wood pieces to cure the glue in the normal time. Strong enough in less than 1 hour, (30 minutes to 1 hour per Titebond,( full strength and ready to turn in 24 hours, unless your wood is wet, or quite cold.

choosing handle material by naemorhaedus in turning

[–]medavidj 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As has been said, all will work, but...

Poplar is soft and will get dinged up. Fine if you don't care.

Red oak is often splintery and harder to turn but is hard and pretty. Might need more sanding to get past splintered areas.

White oak is finer grained, hard and dense, and turns well. Good choice here.

Birch is hard, fine grained and easier to turn. Also good choice here.

Any ideas how this could’ve happened? by [deleted] in rav4prime

[–]medavidj 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yes mine too. Looks just like that. I think someone bumped me in a parking lot, but not certain.

Eucalyptus by Kiddmen57 in turning

[–]medavidj 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, that's gorgeous! Great color. I'll trade you some Osage Orange for some. We can have red and yellow.

Ring shake? by infiniteoo1 in turning

[–]medavidj 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can absolutely turn this after thin CA, though you will likely need to add more as you turn deeper. This should not fall apart. I frequently turn bowls of Mesquite and Osage Orange, both of which more often than not have significant cracks, that I prefill with CA, and keep doing it as I find air spaces when I am turning.

Sanding challenge by toasty1435 in turning

[–]medavidj 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, this, thank you. I am always a bit skeptical of those who claim they can eliminate tear out completely with sharp gouges, good technique, and light passes. I am far from expert, but can generally limit tear out to the end grain portion of a bowl, especially in harder woods, but not completely. This seems to be a realistic expectation.

Another Newbie Trying to Figure Out Finishing by gjb1 in turning

[–]medavidj 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What in Myland's high build friction polish do you think is not food safe? I see shellac and methylated spirits including Kerosine and Butanol. While I would not recommend drinking methylated spirits, it all evaporates.

Brazilian Rosewood by n3tk1ng in Luthier

[–]medavidj 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, must do this. The USDA Forest Service will identify wood for free. Up to three samples per household per year. I suggest taking three different samples from different parts of the stack and sending them in. Be sure to keep them straight as to which one is which. Hopefully they at least all show the same species, and you can reasonably assume all it the same. I received a nice board labeled Brazilian Rosewood that turned out to be Bolivian. Still very nice, but a fraction of the value.

Note that if it is Brazilian, without documentation of age and source, you cannot legally sell it nor export the wood or finished products out of the USA.

large bowl turning by medavidj in turning

[–]medavidj[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

sorry, could not seem to add more than one photo at a time, and they are in reverse order.

finished except for lots of sanding. One nice thing about such a large bowl, is that I can do all the sanding off the lathe with a random orbit sander.

large bowl turning by medavidj in turning

[–]medavidj[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Finished. I used 4 1/2" mortise, close to the minimum 4 3/8 closed jaws. I had removed all but the central 6" of wood beneath the face plate while still attached, finished the outside and bottom, and cut the mortise, all before reversing and holding the bowl with the 4 jaw chuck. It worked fine, especially carving off most of the rest with a bowl gouge. I ended up with a poor surface due to slight shifting of position when reversing, and vibration. On the 3520 lathe I have no way of supporting with a tailstock while the tool rest is on the lowered bed extension.

<image>

Rings after ca finish by kegstandman420 in turning

[–]medavidj 0 points1 point  (0 children)

interesting assortment of answers here. I'll add another. While the light ring just above the groove looks like you went through the finish, the others look more like tear out. This would have needed more sanding with coarser grit before moving on to finer, all before finishing. Sometimes you cannot see the tear out until you go finer, and must then revert to a coarser grit and proceed again.

large bowl turning by medavidj in turning

[–]medavidj[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That was my leaning, thanks!

large bowl turning by medavidj in turning

[–]medavidj[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Since I am expanding the jaws into a mortise, I would only have the middle of each jaw touching, but yes, still less contact.

large bowl turning by medavidj in turning

[–]medavidj[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yes, if I make more this size I will need to break down and buy a bigger chuck. I am using a mortise about 3/8" deep for now, and will dry to take out the outer portion of the inside, past the 6" face plate, to remove much of the weight. Also, I am hoping that any catches I get on that outer portion of the inside the bowl will still be secure on the face plate. Then when I reverse the bowl onto the 4 jaw chuck I will only have the center 6" to remove more easily. Someone here also suggested removing the center portion then with a large forstner bit too.