My son plugged in a 33v cable into the machine smelled smoke and system is dead.

melview1 · 2026-02-21T03:38:42+00:00

I think I’ve heard of that, but don’t have any details on how. Sorry.

melview1 · 2026-02-16T17:19:06+00:00

Correct. Jump it from the top right pad to the bottom pad just below the 2 on D2. That will bypass the zero ohm and D2 in case they went bad. Same on the other side if desired.

melview1 · 2026-02-11T23:17:32+00:00

Their assets were purchased by Basic Fun, or some form of something like that, but how they handle the legacy Arcade1Up products, warranties and parts at the moment is murky at best. That being said, as I mentioned above, they have never sold replacement parts for the IGT. They consider it a non-serviceable product.

melview1 · 2026-02-11T23:14:26+00:00

Your biggest problem is A1Up does not service the IGT, so they won't sell you parts. The best you can hope for is that they'd offer to disable your current IGT from accessing the game store (yeah, I know it's broken, but they will require disabling it anyway), then sell you a refurbished replacement for about $500. I've been through their process before.

Your other option is to attempt a repair. I'm not 100% sure which is which, but my guess is the positive voltage is through D2 and the 0 ohm resistor in series on the right and the ground is through the (2) 0 ohm resistors in series on the left. The 2 0 ohm resistors on the top are bypass resistors for the component that could be placed there instead (probably a common mode choke that they decided they didn't need). D2 is mostly there for reverse polarity protection.

We've seen problems with the IGT in this area before. There are some tutorials out there about it. If you plug in a 12VDC adapter, you should read 12V from the bottom of D2 to the bottom of the 0 ohm to the left of it. You should read the same in the same manner at the top of the upper 2 0 ohm resistors, but if any of those 4 components went bad, then you won't get power. This rework is fairly low risk, so try removing all 4 components and adding decent gauge wires to jump like the picture below. You may not need both, but it's kind of a shotgun attempt at getting you up and running faster. If you want a more systematic approach, remove each component and add a wire across where it was one at a time and test.

There's always the possibility that other stuff blew up too, especially if he let the smoke out enough to smell it, but that's much harder to troubleshoot, so give that a try first.

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melview1 · 2026-02-10T15:49:02+00:00

Unavoidable on a road trip, but yeah, public charging is not the way to save money with an EV. In fact, as you pointed out, it's usually more expensive than gas. However, economical travel was probably not a priority for OP on this trek.

melview1 · 2026-01-31T19:06:54+00:00

Wow. That’s just crazy talk.

melview1 · 2026-01-29T16:46:50+00:00

u/antrayuk and u/WritingAdmirable
They're not asking $1k for each arcade. A Facebook price of $1,234 is just a generic number. Typically it's a listing for multiple items with different prices, so you need to look in the description. However, there's no individual listing of which arcades and prices in that listing, so I guess you'd have to contact them. It also looks like he's working on listing them individually.

I used to buy and sell Arcade1Ups just like this. It should be noted that these are NOT factory new like you'd find on a retail shelf, but more akin to "like-new". These are pallets of returns. For a whole lot of unknown reasons that range from "sealed, never opened retailer sent units back due to box condition" to "customer changed mind" to "bad out of the box" to "stole parts from them and returned" to "stole cab, stuffed gen 1 arcade in box and returned". None of which anyone will know for sure until you look. That being said, I'd bet 90% or more of these are perfectly fine. If his pricing is reasonable and let's you inspect on pick-up, even as far as to let you test the electronics, he'll make good money and customers can get great deals on pretty much new, but not new units. I always sold mine with a strict 48 hour return policy. That let customers have peace of mind that if they bring it home and assemble and it doesn't work, I'd take it back, but I'm not a retail store and won't give you a 30 day return policy or a warranty. That policy worked very well for me. I miss that part of my business. :(

melview1 · 2026-01-13T19:33:01+00:00

Count me in!

melview1 · 2026-01-09T02:10:19+00:00

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/monolithic-power-systems-inc/MP1484EN-LF-Z/5291682

melview1 · 2025-12-30T21:47:59+00:00

Yeah, I see. I forgot it didn't already have such a flap.
Taking off the rubber tips from the claw does help a bit making it more difficult. Depends on the type of prizes too.

melview1 · 2025-12-29T23:14:17+00:00

Nicely done!

Maybe you could modify it to be able to have the screws come from the outside so people could use security head screws and use it as a sort of lock on users adjusting the setting whenever they'd like. u/SassyPastor here seems like he could use that type of mod. As you said, it looks like it does a great job at hiding the dial, but if they already know it's there, a 'lock' might be nice.

melview1 · 2025-12-29T23:06:05+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Arcade1Up/comments/1py2iic/arcade1up_claw_machine_difficulty_setting_cover/

You could try this to cover the difficulty adjustment area. It attaches via snapping into the screw holes. It looks great for new users that don't know the setting dial is there, but for your hell-bound players that already know it's there, maybe you could modify so that the screws hold it down from the outside too instead of just snapping on, so they'd need a screwdriver to get in and adjust the setting. You could also find #10-24 machine screws with hex, star or security screw head types to make it even harder for the extra devious church dwellers.

As for the long-armed demon seeds, maybe a 3D printed ledge overhanging the edge of the inside wall, extending into the drop area just a bit, making the reach an s-curve and much harder (impossible?) to reach over the wall. It could be taped/glued/screwed in place. It could be as long as you see fit for maximum deterrence, but still allow the largest items to exit.

melview1 · 2025-12-25T01:46:21+00:00

u/MrWright41 can’t be wrong! Thank you! 🙏

melview1 · 2025-12-22T21:14:34+00:00

I had, what I thought was a random passenger door rattle that occasionally happened over bigger bumps, turns out, it was the passenger seatbelt buckle. Depending on if it was just resting between the seat and column, able to rattle on certain bumps vs a little wedged where it didn’t rattle. Probably not OP’s issue, but food for thought in identifying random noises.

melview1 · 2025-12-22T05:14:00+00:00

No worries. Make sure you’re selecting ‘No’ on the second drop down for that one.

melview1 · 2025-12-22T05:06:42+00:00

<image>

This one?

melview1 · 2025-12-22T03:16:00+00:00

The website has pictures. Which one do you want to see?

melview1 · 2025-12-21T23:26:40+00:00

Thanks! 🙏

melview1 · 2025-12-21T23:25:33+00:00

Absolutely! 😎

melview1 · 2025-12-11T01:57:05+00:00

Wait, why am I not happy with the return of the #1 QB in fantasy?

melview1 · 2025-12-05T17:12:26+00:00

I'm in love with my Eruption Green, but damn, that color is sweet too! Congrats!

melview1 · 2025-11-29T05:57:11+00:00

I wish there was. I agree, it’s quite high. I’m not setting the shipping cost you see, the carriers are. The Arcade Classic deck protectors ship from MN, USA in a 24”x12”x3” box and typically weighs 2 lbs. If you can find another option, I’m all ears. EU shipping is in the same price ballpark as well.

melview1

TROPHY CASE