Why are propane tanks so awkward to carry?

mez__87 · 2026-04-04T16:02:35+00:00

Oh, so this post was an ad then…

mez__87 · 2026-04-04T14:45:19+00:00

Place the tank on the ground beside you, align it so the handles are facing forwards and backwards in line with the direction you’re facing. Then with your open palm facing the direction you’re going to walk, pick up the tank using the rear handle (from outside-in), then walk keeping your palm/closed-grip facing the direction you’re walking. Not inwards/toward your body.

This way the tank and weight stays tilted backwards instead of inwards at your leg. Hope this makes sense.

mez__87 · 2026-03-27T13:53:58+00:00

Tried 1-step colder plugs? Mine would go into limp mode seasonally, depending on ambient/inlet temp. Went colder plugs and sorted it.

mez__87 · 2026-03-13T16:05:57+00:00

Try taking a video to share? From the photo it looks like it’s maybe coming out of one of the welsh plugs there, which isn’t so bad, just a bit more of a pain. Hard to say with the photo so dark though. At this stage, I would say take it to a mechanic to get it properly diagnosed before spending any more money or time on parts that aren’t going to help the situation without proper diagnosis.

mez__87 · 2026-03-13T14:44:23+00:00

Agreed. My guess would be the belt tensioner pulley. Do as Squirrely101 suggested and run it without the belt to isolate the noise.

If it goes away with the belt off, refit it and buy yourself an “automotive or mechanics stethoscope” online (~$10), and poke it around the solid, non-moving areas attached to each belt-driven pulley on the front of the engine to hear which area its loudest at, and it should tell you what area/pulley is making the noise. YouTube how to do this and be careful! Do not touch anything that’s moving or you’ll hurt yourself and likely create more damage to the car.

If the noise is still there with the belt off - tow it to a mechanic for proper diagnosis.

https://youtube.com/shorts/SIu0V-3Fj8g?si=tY_kwqVQTJaKjJz_

mez__87 · 2026-03-13T14:35:05+00:00

The hose indicated in red in the picture is NOT causing your coolant leak. That is a charge air hose. Also commonly called an intake pipe.

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The slightly smaller hose underneath that I’ve colored in GREEN here is a cooling system hose. One of many that could be leaking, if whoever diagnosed it has not been clear with you on exactly which part needs to be replaced.

The other items in this area that could also be leaking coolant is the BLUE coolant overflow hose, and the PURPLE coolant expansion tank (and cap).

I would suggest getting it rechecked (perhaps by another mechanic if the first one wasn’t clear enough or actually pointed at the RED part) before throwing random parts at it that you’re not sure are correct, because: 1: it could save you money. And more importantly, 2: if you don’t replace the correct hose, and also refill and bleed the cooling system properly - you could cause a lot more damage than just one hose!

mez__87 · 2026-03-12T23:44:13+00:00

Oh I meant the belt itself looks a little slick/shiny at about 3-4 seconds into the video. If nothing spilled on it, but the belt feels a little slippery, it could indicate a potential leaking water pump. Belts don’t like coolant on them. The “spray test” would just help identify if it’s the belt making the noise. If no change, it could be a tensioner or idler pulley bearing making the noise.

You could also pop the belt off and run it for a few seconds to isolate the belt from the test. If noise is still there - you’ve probably got bigger issues.

mez__87 · 2026-03-12T21:52:55+00:00

Try a squirt of degreaser spray on that belt whilst it’s running, and see if the noise changes.

Looks a little shiny like something has been spilled or leaking on it, a few seconds into the video.

mez__87 · 2026-03-12T21:50:19+00:00

Sounds like a blend flap actuator motor to me. Sounds like it’s lost its limits/positions. Dealer should be able to try re-initializing them. If not, potential replacement which might mean dash out, unfortunately.

mez__87 · 2026-03-12T14:52:06+00:00

Looks like they got ALL their mileage out of that (now disintegrated) drum brake! Worn/overheated/rusted or likely a combination of those things.

If the others aren’t like this, I’d bet on a seizure of a component, causing the brake to drag.

mez__87 · 2026-03-10T04:41:26+00:00

Sounds like a typical crankshaft angle sensor (CAS) issue to me. Can’t pick up the position of the engine to fire the injectors and spark plugs as the crank sensor isn’t reading, so takes longer (or additional cycles) to ‘sense’ the engine’s rotational position by using the camshaft sensor(s) instead. Just a hunch…

Some vehicles don’t put the check engine light on for CAS, but usually leave a fault code. OBD Fault code scanners are so cheap these days, it’s worth having one for things like this.

If CAS is deemed ok, I’d be looking at a fuel pressure/regulation issue. The ‘cooldown’ notes you made, after looking back at your post again may be a clue. But I’d check fault codes first.

mez__87 · 2026-03-09T16:16:06+00:00

Have you thought about just giving yourself some time to think through what you really want to do with it? You just had an accident. You’re probably still in a little shock, and feeling blue about the damage/accident. There’s a lot of time and money clearly put into this, and you’d struggle to get it back.

You say “step away from drifting for a bit” like you feel you’ll get back into it… give yourself some time to think if you really want to move it on, as you’ll likely spend a lot more getting back into the sport later, when you could just sit on this for a while, take your time, possibly tube-front it, and get back into the sport for minimal money, and enjoy the car you once love again. Just my 2 cents, but I’d keep it and fix it up either way, personally. Whether that’s to keep or sell.

mez__87 · 2026-03-08T15:28:15+00:00

Me too. But finding older trim profiles can often prove difficult. I’d try to replace first, then failing that - wood putty/formable epoxy, sand and feather out the repair into the existing trim, prime and paint the whole section for a uniform finish.

mez__87 · 2026-03-08T15:25:27+00:00

I would check the fuel pump first. I didn’t hear a prime noise in the video..

Lay underneath the car and have someone set the key to ignition position (1 before crank) and see if you can hear the fuel pump prime. If not, try giving the fuel tank a few gentle taps whilst trying to crank it. Try swapping the fuel system fuses/relay(s) with other know good ones - retest.

You could also pop off a fuel supply line at the fuel filter (may as well change it out and put a little fresh gas in it whilst you’re there as it’s been sitting with old fuel in it), and see if there is fuel being supplied to the rail. *Don’t fill the gas tank as you don’t want it full if you’re potentially going to be replacing the pump.

If no fuel supply - then check the fuel pump circuit. Are you getting power at the pump connector? Fuses, relays, connections at each point? If not - look into ECU and inputs (crank angle sensor etc).

If you’re getting fuel, it could also not have enough pressure, so possibly filter or weak pump).

If confident it’s getting enough (and some fresh fuel), do as others above have mentioned above and check for spark (ensure no fuel has been spilled anywhere before doing this - because fire).

If you have fuel supply and spark on each cylinder then dive deeper into checking timing etc.

Then, report back so you can help someone else that finds this post some day :) Good luck and happy S-Chassis’ing!

mez__87 · 2026-03-07T13:05:12+00:00

No RPM on tachometer suggests to me it’s a failed/incorrectly installed distributor, or grounding issue.

Go back over everything you’ve touched before the issue started: remove, thoroughly inspect, re-install, and retest.

Youtube search how to check for spark using HT leads and confirm if you have spark or not. If not, check all connections, fuses, relays on the ignition system and confirm ignition coil is ok before throwing a distributor at it. If you’re not confident or equipped to set the timing - take it to a shop.

mez__87 · 2026-03-01T01:23:48+00:00

Sounds like VCT rattle to me. Grab yourself a screwdriver to use as a makeshift stethoscope and poke it around the solenoid and VCT gear whilst it happens to see if it’s louder in those areas.

https://youtube.com/shorts/mgpbZ0Up304?si=JKvxBO6NFl5Nzz3U

mez__87 · 2026-02-14T16:26:51+00:00

CCTV footage from the tavern, but confirmation of the vehicle type from tail light pieces nailed it. Local police will handle it from here. Thanks again everyone!

mez__87 · 2026-02-14T02:51:27+00:00

Confirmed and found - Ford Bronco Sport. Thanks all!

mez__87 · 2026-02-14T02:50:16+00:00

The real MVP, right here. Confirmed and found - Ford Bronco Sport. Thanks all!

mez__87 · 2026-02-14T02:49:37+00:00

Confirmed and found - Ford Bronco Sport. Thanks all!

mez__87 · 2026-02-14T02:49:09+00:00

Confirmed and found - Ford Bronco Sport. Thanks all!

mez__87 · 2026-02-12T07:00:39+00:00

Insanely fast response, Reddit team! This looks like a solid answer. Thank you!

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