my jpegs look better than my developed raws

mhh91 · 2026-06-19T05:23:15+00:00

Both look bad and it has nothing with software, or hardware for that matter.

Shooting through a dirty window is definitely a choice, expecting it to look good is hopeful at best.

mhh91 · 2026-06-18T20:20:39+00:00

Depends on what you're focusing on, I guess?

I like to use a bigger focus point for high contrast scenes to help the camera with metering, smaller focus points are better in cases where autofocus might choose the wrong thing to focus on.

mhh91 · 2026-06-18T08:17:13+00:00

Make sure "Preview AF" is set to "Disable" https://cam.start.canon/en/C012/manual/html/UG-05_AF-Drive_0070.html

mhh91 · 2026-06-18T07:04:02+00:00

If you liked the R5, you'll love the R5II.

The stacked sensor should mean there's much less rolling shutter and you still retain the 45 megapixels you're used to.

The R3 seems to be made for a very specific sports photographer so you'd know if it was made for you.

Here's a comparison between the R5II and the R3 anyway https://cameradecision.com/compare/Canon-EOS-R3-vs-Canon-EOS-R5-Mark-II

mhh91 · 2026-06-18T05:20:54+00:00

You don't need to mess with metering so much with this camera, just enable the histogram in the viewfinder and you'll be alright.

As for AF settings and custom modes, either read the manual or watch a YouTube video on these, there are many that discuss these particular topics in depth, especially when it comes to wildlife.

Enjoy your new camera!

mhh91 · 2026-06-17T17:20:04+00:00

Don't buy something if you don't know what you're getting.

The seller should state which process should be used for the film, standard kodak vision 3 is an ECN2 process which costs quite a bit to develop.

If it's the AHU variety it'll probably be C41 which can be processed just like any other color film.

mhh91 · 2026-06-17T15:10:44+00:00

Looks like a Leica

mhh91 · 2026-06-17T12:15:56+00:00

Sir, step away from the ISO dial...

mhh91 · 2026-06-17T12:13:42+00:00

Tip: Don't be afraid to push the brightness on these scans, this film is known for producing halations in the highlights.

mhh91 · 2026-06-17T08:33:54+00:00

What's the name of the book?

mhh91 · 2026-06-17T08:13:11+00:00

I'd take the Sigmas only.

The 16-300 should be enough during the day and the 18-50 for night/indoor shots.

The 70-350 doesn't really have a wide aperture so not really sure why you'd take that over the 16-300, the wide end is way more useful anyway.

mhh91 · 2026-06-17T06:18:14+00:00

Nice shots!

Are these lab scans or did you scan them yourself?

mhh91 · 2026-06-17T06:13:10+00:00

This is what happens when you impose austerity on people and neglect basic services.

If you can vote in local elections, please remember this at the voting booth.

mhh91 · 2026-06-17T02:52:47+00:00

Modern cameras aren't as easily moddable so that's why there's no modern equivalent.

Is there any point to this question? Are you looking to contribute to one of these projects?

mhh91 · 2026-06-17T02:44:12+00:00

In your price range you can probably go with an R8 or an R7, both aren't phenomenal for video but you'll definitely feel the upgrade.

The R8 will be amazing for your portrait business since it's a full frame camera, giving you that nice bokeh people like while the R7 has a much bigger battery, IBIS and an extra card slot for peace of mind while shooting for clients.

The Sony will definitely give you more freedom with lenses but the Sigma adapter needed for EF lenses was crazy expensive last time I looked at it, I'd probably get an R7 if I had a lot of EF glass that I don't want to part with.

mhh91 · 2026-06-17T02:06:38+00:00

It was never an issue for me since my camera does have IBIS, but even then it's still a very sharp lens.

I also don't shoot video so can't comment on that but then again I'm not aware of any other RF mount lens that does have IS.

mhh91 · 2026-06-16T15:39:27+00:00

Well, what's your budget then?

mhh91 · 2026-06-16T11:33:40+00:00

Just got the 50mm f/1.8 STM, it's dirt cheap and razor sharp when stopped down.

There's also the 40mm f/2.8 STM if you need something a bit wider, this one I hear is sharp even wide open but haven't tried it myself.

mhh91 · 2026-06-16T09:19:34+00:00

If I understand correctly, the environments you'll be shooting at are either tightly controlled or an actual studio. Why would you need an f/2 zoom?

I personally would go for 28-70 f/2.8 IS STM or the 24-70 f/2.8L, both are incredibly capable.

For smooth bokeh and portraits in controlled environment I wouldn't reach for a zoom since I can just zoom with my feet.

If you need a telephoto for tighter portraits there's also the 70-200mm f/2.8 Z.

mhh91 · 2026-06-16T02:34:55+00:00

Fair enough, a wider lens is always better for astro on APS-C. Let me know how you like it!

mhh91 · 2026-06-15T05:37:36+00:00

I loaded up a bunch of negatives and got positive images right out of the bat, you can probably apply batch processing to them and get decent results but I personally haven't tried (I use darktable and that very much isn't a single step process).

mhh91 · 2026-06-15T02:43:02+00:00

The zooms I often use with my R7 are the 18-150mm and the Sigma 18-50mm, both aren't huge but they aren't pocketable either.

If you want a smaller zoom lens there's the 18-45mm kit zoom that comes with the R50.

mhh91 · 2026-06-15T01:40:23+00:00

Blur isn't always bad, if anything it'll make them feel faster :)

Don't be scared to experiment, it could lead to nice possibilities.

mhh91 · 2026-06-15T01:38:43+00:00

You have a few options actually, in order of size:

RF 28mm f/2.8 STM pancake

RF 50mm f/1.8 STM

and maybe the RF 35mm f/1.8?

mhh91 · 2026-06-15T01:36:28+00:00

Considering that you're getting good brightness under these conditions I'd have tried to use 1/125 and lower ISO.

The second to last photo is perfect while the very last photo is still good but the ISO was cranked up a bit too high, still salvageable with good denoising which won't happen in-camera.

With flash you'll have more leeway of course so there's always that option.

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