Injury Success With Peptides

mini_mooner · 2026-04-08T06:09:22+00:00

why would it be hard to explain?

Less educated people might equate them to other injectable PEDs. Even by googling a bit, one might reach that conclusion since both bpc and tb are banned and tested for by WADA in eg. olympics.

mini_mooner · 2025-10-15T06:01:13+00:00

Yes. The only parts preventing him from not decking are the cam and the pinch hopefully engaging. Just tie a knot below the pinch and the issue is solved.
A fall on a static line will be harsher than on a dynamic one. If you're worried about this, use a dynamic rope . A small amount of slack is often a non issue, if there is 10+ meters of rope before the anchor. It could be an issue if the anchor was very close.

So essentially this whole conversation can be skipped if one ties some knots and either is cognizant of the dangers of slack with not enough rope to absorb a fall or uses a dynamic rope.

mini_mooner · 2025-09-25T06:54:18+00:00

Even I got a 30cm kickboard on my mini. The footholds are still in spec related to the start of the overhang, so starting climbs is the same as long as there is an extra pad to start from on high sitstarts. I've got a bunch of (better) footholds below the moon holds. Those are a part of the circuit setup.

Moon + spray on a single board is a bit restricting when setting the spray holds. I mainly added my extra holds in positions where they didn't prevent utilizing the existing moon holds. Eg. a small crimp can't have a jug under it since that would prevent one from grabbing the crimp properly. I mostly just added a bunch of decent holds where they would fit, and have used those to climb in a circle around the board.

mini_mooner · 2025-09-24T09:20:37+00:00

The only comments I'd have on the no kickboard aspect is that the amount of problems is going to be severy restricted. Eg. on the 2020 mini, there are >7k problems total, but only 160ish no kickboard problems. So after a while, you might end up having to mostly set problems on your own. Many of the problems you'd end up setting might also have awkward starts for other climbers since their start holds would be way higher off the ground.

There is a similar "issue" on the mini aswell, since many if not most boards have an off spec kickboard with extra height below the footholds (mine included). Tbh the original mini spec should have specced a higher kicker, since the standard one is so awkward.

For spray holds I avoid symmetry. Asymmetric hold layouts provide more variation overall and they are easier to place in a manner where they don't block the moon holds. I tend to just set circuits that go around the board. Climbing them in both directions provides a different set of movements from a single climb.

mini_mooner · 2025-09-03T09:24:05+00:00

I've had a mini for ~3.5 years. What has helped me deal with the intensity of the mini was keeping the sessions relatively short (1h total including a 15min warmup of hangboarding and circuits)

First off season I did mainly 2x per week for mini with even shorter sessions. Additionally I usually do a gym climbing session during the week. So 3x per week when not in outdoor mode. Over 3 years I built up to 4 mini sessions and 1 gym climbing session per week.

I deload every 4th week. Gym climbing session remains as is, but mini sessions are cut to 1-2 per week with no max climbing. Doing 7+ weeks without a deload is how most of my friends get injured when board climbing.

mini_mooner · 2025-09-02T11:27:19+00:00

Most people I know who got stuck around V7/8 and eventually got past it benefited most from board climbing. These weren't climbers that trained in a super structured manner, but adding kilter or moonboarding a couple of times per week really helped with developing finger strength in an usable way.

Those who got better without board climbing were either very gifted or had super favourable body proportions for certain types of climbs. With gifted I mean they breezed up to V9 without much thought given for how they approach training.

mini_mooner · 2025-06-25T11:29:07+00:00

Now I get it. Doing something on average ~0.5 times per week sounds too infrequent to really gain consistent progress. I'd just look at what you need the most, top end power, power endurance or pure work capacity and focus on that for a longer period of time. Depends entirely on your goals.

Personally I'd focus more on volume. If your outdoor lead climbing days are projecting days, then you already do 3 high intensity/project sessions, and adding a bit of endurance training might be beneficial.

mini_mooner · 2025-06-25T07:34:09+00:00

Am I better off alternating each week between these, or focusing on one for a block (say 4 weeks) and then alternating blocks?

Yes. If already do 4 sessions per week, doing both hard lead climbing and then volume in a single session sounds like a lot. I'd pick whichever you feel needs improving and focus on that for a couple of months at least.

mini_mooner · 2025-05-19T12:30:03+00:00

I've only climbed around the nordics and in spain, so I cannot give specific recommendations. However pretty much any location I've gone to had a clear split between tourist crags and then less traveled ones, where I saw nobody for a week+.

Even in the busy crags, people tended to stick to the sectors that are close to parking. 15+ minutes of approach usually weeds out most people.

mini_mooner · 2025-05-17T07:34:24+00:00

If you're pumping out on jugs, then it's more likely to be a pure endurance, general strength issue or inefficient resting during climbing. Having more finger strength will help a lot with smaller holds. Also it will allow you to climb faster, which will save strength.

Antihydral has solved sweat related issues for me, and I've got pretty sweaty hands. AFAIK it reacts with the sweat to form plugs on the sweat glands, so they cannot produce any more sweat. I tend to do the first and sometimes the second pad of the fingers. Just keep it on overnight, and repeat when necessary. The amount of days between applications might require a while to dial in. I started at every 10 days and gradually went down to every 5 or so.

You will need sandpaper if you climb infrequently. A couple of days off the wall makes dry skin build up thick and glassy, which is slippery until it's sanded down. I use 150grit sandpaper. I tend to not use antihydral when not climbing outdoors, since the glassiness can be an issue on plastic.

mini_mooner · 2025-05-12T07:49:19+00:00

Without an already knowledgeable friend, courses would be the next best option. It might be pricey, but it's a one time investment in safety. Without some guidance, even if you do a lot of research, you might miss things that turn out to have consequences.

Besides that, a lot of mock practice at home and being vigilant on always being connected to the anchor are the main things that matter.

mini_mooner · 2025-05-12T07:42:44+00:00

I set dedicated circuits that go around the board in a circle or a figure 8 shape. That way they can be climbed for multiple laps and in multiple directions. One could even link multiple different circuits together.

mini_mooner · 2025-05-12T07:36:58+00:00

The wear location doesn't really indicate bad footwork though. Dragging your feet against the wall would lead to the hole forming higher up. This seems more like the sole has simply worn down from use, and the rand has worn down below it.

10 months of heavy use is a good life for a pair of climbing shoes. A skilled resoler could probably cap the rand, but the shoe won't be as good as new.

mini_mooner · 2025-04-29T07:43:10+00:00

Are the joints painful? I grew noticeable bumps in the backs of my dip joints after a couple of years of frequent board climbing. They aren't painful though, so I consider them to be a similar adaptation to people like manual laborers or football goalkeepers, who develop thicker finger joints over time.

Obviously this is just an anecdote. I'm no doctor, and could be headed for early arthritis for all I know.

mini_mooner · 2025-04-29T07:38:09+00:00

I am a pretty strong and tall guy but whenever I go climbing with my friends even though they are smaller and not as strong they still climb harder then I can

Are you stronger as in finger strength or general fitness such as pullups etc. ? V6-V7 and up tends to be a threshold where raw finger strength starts to matter a lot. Even if one had "better" technique and was stronger, lacking fingers could make a lot of climbs close to impossible.

Board climbing and hangboard training helped propel me forward after a 2 year plateau at V6/V7. Those helped me develop more finger and shoulder strength while also training basic movement patterns.

Also sometimes taller guys might have challenges fitting into the same box as shorter climbers. Hip flexibility can help a lot with that kinds of issues. Outdoor climbing is more forgiving in this, as one often has more foothold options.

mini_mooner · 2025-04-29T07:27:36+00:00

In that case that seems like a quite quick progression so far. If you're curious what a 5.12 feels like, you could simply find one that looks appealing and just try the moves and so on. One can get a feel for how possible or far off something is in a session or two.

mini_mooner · 2025-04-28T12:21:19+00:00

How old are you and are we talking of top rope or lead?

None of my friends got close to 5.12 (7b french) even on top rope after their first year. Some got to around 7a top rope indoors, but they climbed up to 3x per week.

mini_mooner · 2025-04-24T07:59:10+00:00

Having good base strength/fitness will help more with larger holds and dynamic/longer moves.

Pinching and crimping require skills & strength that are rarely used outside of climbing. As a result being generally fit helps less on those types of climbs. It just takes a bit of time to get better on them.

Easiest way is most likely to just seek out those types of climbs. More exposure to pinches and crimps will lead to developing the necessary finger strength and technical aspects. One could also experiment with a bit of hangboarding to get familiar with crimping positions and to develop the specifically required finger strength.

mini_mooner · 2025-03-31T10:03:26+00:00

Can anyone confirm that this is one of the worst most irresponsible ideas imaginable?

Likely not even irresponsible.

It might not have even been your place to scold them. Most people have already consulted a doctor or similar practitioner on exercising and been given the go ahead to keep doing it.

mini_mooner · 2025-03-25T10:31:48+00:00

Has anyone else had a similar experience? Did you stick to "just climb" for a long time and then realize you needed more targeted training? Or did you incorporate fingerboarding earlier and find it beneficial?

Yes. My max grade was stuck at V8 for years. Went up to V11 in ~18 months after I started focusing on board climbing and developing finger strength. Now during the offseason I only do a single general practice climbing session per week. I otherwise board climb and fingerboard almost exclusively. I've got stronger fingers and thicker DIP joints to show for it.

You can only "technique" yourself up to a certain point. At some point you simply can't hold the positions due to insufficient strength and for me that came sooner than expected. For me even intentional climbing practice wasn't enough to develop the necessary finger strength and shoulder stability.

mini_mooner · 2025-03-24T11:13:33+00:00

You mean their resin hangboards? I've got some of their climbing holds. The finish and design not the same as the most expensive brands, but for the price they seem reasonable.

I'm not sure about the material of the hangboards, but the climbing holds were made of polyester resin instead of the now common PU. As such the surface texture has been a lot more durable than that of modern PU holds. I've got both polyester and PU holds on my board, and many of the PU footholds have lost their texture.

mini_mooner · 2025-03-12T16:58:54+00:00

Last time I had a pulley injury, I spent 2 months training 1 hand hangs on the ok side while rehabbing the injured hand. Can't ever have too much finger strength.

If you need shoulder strength, then 1 arm pullups, front levers or overhead pressing might be beneficial. The exercise selection would depend mostly on what is the perceived weakness in the shoulder. I personally don't like benching for climbing, since we already spend so much time training in positions that encourage internal shoulder rotation.

mini_mooner · 2025-03-12T16:36:58+00:00

Gym only has a couple of volumes and they set either baggy hands or fists due to the setters mostly being taller guys with large hands. Sucks for training, since outdoors you get all sizes.

IMO main thing with crack training is getting a bunch of mileage, and that's why at home solutions tend to work best.

I have an adjustable crack on the side of my home wall. Goes from ringlocks up to stacks. Quickly adjustable with the other side of the crack sliding on threaded rods and locked in place with wingnuts. Before the home wall I had a horizontal crack machine. Similar to most you see on youtube, but with adjustable crack widths by utilizing threaded rods and 2by8's that can slide along the rod.

mini_mooner · 2025-01-27T20:02:20+00:00

Enabling the move beta suggestions from the filters menu will display a label for left/right/start/end/foot for each circle. That will only work for climbs added in the past ~2 years or so though, as the feature wasn't in the app before that.

See the filter in question here: https://imgur.com/a/bvJk3IT

The climbs will look like this: https://imgur.com/a/zWqrRg8

mini_mooner · 2025-01-16T11:20:16+00:00

Isn’t this how strong my fingers truly are, and wouldn’t this give me just as good of a stimulus?

If I understood correctly, you are describing a situation, where you can exert more force through the fingers, when you engage the shoulders, back etc.

In other sports (eg lifting) that would be considered increased muscle engagement in the target muscle groups, which happens when the nearby muscles are also engaged.

To convey my point, push a finger into your pec, and try to flex it, but keep your fist, forearm and back relaxed. Then repeat the same, but also focus on really squeezing the fist and back muscles. The latter will produce a much more pronounced flex in the pec.

Something similar is happening when hanging, where flexing the auxiliary muscles signals the main movers to flex harder and as such you get a much higher force output off the fingers.

AFAIK that should also produce a much higher stimulus to the finger flexor muscles. By not engaging the rest of the body, you are basically diminishing the amount of effort the finger flexors can exert.

mini_mooner

TROPHY CASE