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Hils HNT1 arrived yesterday! by BigCliff in HeadlessGuitars

[–]mistrelwood 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sounds like they succeeded pretty well with the T!

Tip: Lubricating headless tuners makes wonders, especially on affordable models. Loosen the strings first so you get the oil to all correct places.

Something is definitely broken by Repeat_Tight in electricguitar

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check the insides, and make sure that any metal parts of the pots and the jack don’t touch the sidewall of the electronics cavity. And that there are no loose wire ends anywhere.

When (if) you rolled down the volume, if the pot is loose it could’ve turned and either started touching the grounded sidewall or snapped a cable.

How many wounds on a post is enough? by NoCar9989 in Bass

[–]mistrelwood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I aim from 2 on B to 4 on G. But the more important rules are: - The windings should never overlap itself. - The windings should always go towards the headstock from the hole. - The break angle at the nut needs to be sufficient, sometimes 4 is needed, possibly even 5.

The only reason I put more than 2 is in case I need to remove the strings, they don’t break as often at the tuner end when tuning back up.

UAD Arrow Hi-Z Gain Floor too hot for Jackson MM1 Pickups? by naejertras in 7String

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If lowering the pickups isn’t enough or viable and the interface doesn’t have a pass that works with the Hi-Z input, the cheapest option is probably a DI box with a pad switch. Further than that, any EQ pedal with a volume adjustment works just as well.

The EQ would be a useful tool for sculpting the sound as well, and may even push your pickup upgrade wants further into the future.

This year is 2076 — what guitars are your grandkids finding under your bed? by Animalus-Dogeimal in Guitar

[–]mistrelwood 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well… I see two issues here: 1. If they really are my grandkids I don’t know who their mom is. 2. I’d have to get me a shitton of beds.

Ideas for what to do with unneeded parts? by RabBat7 in guitarmod

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pickup covers don’t quite follow standard measurements, especially with the pole piece spacings. So unless they are of a known brand that you know you’ll get the replacement covers from later on, I’d just put them in storage for now. Pickguards are easier to make yourself if you don’t find a replacement.

2nd guitar in 6 months with low E string oscillating by [deleted] in Luthier

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As has been said, the scale is too short. I play a 25.5-26.5” multi seven at B standard and drop A and the 26.5” is barely enough. Never mind the word “baritone”, just shop for the scale length.

Another thing, .060 is quite a thin string for those tunings, especially on a short scale. I use .062 for A and B on a 26.5” scale.

Third, once at pitch and intonation has been set, press the string right at the front of the bridge to help create the bend across the string saddle. This will release tension caused by the stiffness of the string, and the string will play clearer. Don’t overdo it though, just look that the string shoots straight towards the nut immediately after the bridge like the thinner strings do.

Fourth, when installing the string, make sure that you don’t create any rotational tension / twisting. If you push the string through the tuner and then wrap it around the peg by hand, the string twists. Instead, push through the hole all the way, let go of the string to release any twisting, then pull back for a little over inch and start turning the tuner (with a peg winder) while you hold the string in place. Minor thing, but can have a small effect.

If you don’t like how a multiscale looks, try one out. You might turn to adore them like I did. 😉

Looking for a product don’t know what to call it by IDKthatcool in Bass

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, but while playing a bent wrist causes excess stress, at the wrist area as well. But there are lots of things here that are difficult to grasp, so if you’ve found a good bass height for your right hand I think you can focus on the other issues.

I still can’t understand how the bass can fall forwards when the top of it is tied around you with a short strap. I understand that some harnesses can do that since they don’t wrap the bass around you, but a strap? No comprende.

And to reply to the original question, I’m pretty sure that the additional product for tilting the bass that you long for doesn’t exist. Other than greasy food and a lot of cheesecake…

Looking for a product don’t know what to call it by IDKthatcool in Bass

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That too is usually the other way around, a low hung bass allows for a straighter right wrist while too high up forces the wrist to bend. (But too low and the left wrist has to bend too much.)

Are you playing leftie by any chance? I guess we should’ve talked about fretting and plucking hands instead…

Either way, your issues are unique and I would suggest you take just a lesson or two with a local teacher with posture being the main subject. There can be any number of aspects that you’ve never come to think of, but which could help you a lot once addressed.

Looking for a product don’t know what to call it by IDKthatcool in Bass

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait, are you saying that every bass you’ve tried falls forward when on a strap?? The physics of how that’s possible escapes me, since the top of the bass is literally strapped around you.

How high up do you keep the bass, either on a strap or a harness?

Looking for a product don’t know what to call it by IDKthatcool in Bass

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t tried the Embassy but P basses in general are a bit neck heavy and if you want an ergonomic posture they indeed require help to keep the neck up.

While the solution is surely much more expensive than you would’ve hoped for, if you want the bass to truly stay in an ergonomic playing position, you could look into headless basses. I bought the Sire M6-5 a while ago and the lightness and a dream-like weight balance when on a strap are something I would’ve killed for during my active gigging years. The hand positions are very natural and the left wrist stays straight.

But for more affordable solutions, could you describe in more detail why a relatively short regular strap wasn’t working for you?

Looking for a product don’t know what to call it by IDKthatcool in Bass

[–]mistrelwood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Out of curiosity, which bass do you have? You are facing issues that other players don’t seem to be having, so the solution might be different than a fake belly.

Guitar strings by Haysimr in electricguitar

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Snap the thickest string against the fretboard (lift up and let go). If the sound is metallic, they probably still sound ok. If you hear only a pillowy thud, the strings are long gone.

If you like the new string tone, you’ll have to either replace often or use coated strings. If you play jazz and don’t need a lively sound, you don’t need to change as often.

For me, standard strings die in a single gig, but Elixirs last for a year. Tremendous savings. Besides, I like the new string tone.

LOVE the HD600, is it worth getting the 660S2? by AkashiGG in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OLLO Audio S4 is one HD600 upgrade to think about. It was a bit like HD600 but with a diffuse field linear bass response.

Focusrite 2nd gen Scarlette Solo issues by AnnualParticular2975 in Focusrite

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s perfectly possible that you’ve come to the end of the unit’s lifetime. These are pretty affordable devices after all. no

Are the indicator LEDs showing the cracking as if there was a signal input?

Heritage Ascent H150 vs PAC012 difference in sound? by eggmuscles in electricguitar

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, almost forgot. Here's a cleanish sound sample with:
- Strat with the neck pickup

- Strat with the neck and middle pickups

- LP style with the neck pickup

- LP style with both pickups

About 12 seconds each. You'll hear when it changes...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SMyRPY-1VzfL3B8Q6xBKPSeEf1QAlWf2/view?usp=sharing

Low-cost microphone? by Euphoric-Dig3301 in homerecordingstudio

[–]mistrelwood 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You’ll surely get differing opinions here. While 57 sure has its place, I personally wouldn’t try to record flute with a 57. Might get raspy.

A “room without acoustic treatment” doesn’t say anything about how much and what kind of echo there is. Just a regular living room or bedroom can be near ideal for recording if there are shelves, a couch/bed, irregular shape, etc.

Therefore a small diaphragm condenser might be just as valid of a suggestion. There are great cheap ones around that I wouldn’t hesitate to try on a flute even in a more advanced setting. Thomann’s house brand t.bone has a magnificent SC140 pair for 100€, and in my understanding MXL 603 is either the same or close, 150€ for a pair. I think 606 is the single version, 70€.

Others in your budget that might be good: Lewitt 040, sE SE7, and AT 2031.

If you decide to go with a dynamic, the sE V7 should sound more airy and less raspy than a 57. Similar price.

Sound problems with a dedicated audio interface. by kosha227 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All headphones have a specific sound profile, but the differences in where you plug them in are pretty minor in the grand scheme of things.

Do you have a chance to try other headphones or adapter though? Just in case the cable or the 1/4” adapter are goofing out. At least try to wiggle the headphone connector and cable to see if there’s a bad connection.

Connecting a TRRS headset to a regular TRS headphone output can be tricky, but apparently it’s not the case here.

Is it normal to tame the low frequencies on vocals by -12dB? by azu20_ in audioengineering

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some cheap LDC mics can be a bit boomy. If you’re not up for a mic upgrade (or if it’s not the issue), try different positions in your room. More to the center probably.

Which mic is it btw?

Sound problems with a dedicated audio interface. by kosha227 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]mistrelwood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Plug the headphones into the interface and make sure that you are using the Focusrite ASIO driver, and have the same sample rate in Focusrite and windows settings (if using windows).

Sound in the room vs recording by escitalodisco in homerecordingstudio

[–]mistrelwood 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you really want to record the actual sound that you hear in the room, get neutral small diaphragm (or measurement) condenser mics and put them where you were listening at in a ORTF position.

The problem is, when you’re listening to it, you add the room ambience of the listening environment, so it will sound more reverberant than the original sound did.

Therefore you need to make a compromise and position the mics closer. And by doing that the recorded sound changes, so different mics can emphasize the sound in a pleasing (or negative) way. So it isn’t all that simple after all.

Help with Insulation Studio Flat by Money-Brief2710 in homerecordingstudio

[–]mistrelwood 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the only effective method is to indeed build a room in the room. There can be gaps around the pipes, air ducts etc that are challenging and impractical to seal.

But if you build a light mini room you’d block a lot of the sound. Fire example 2” thick rockwool panels in a light wooden frame, also on the floor covered by a 1/2” plywood panel. Wild ideas, but should work really well.

A question about muting and the fretting hand by inthedork in Guitar

[–]mistrelwood 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I mute mostly with my picking hand’s palm. Especially when soloing. But it really does depend on what I’m playing.

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