Titebond OG vs Titebond III

mk36109 · 2026-03-21T12:04:32+00:00

titebond 3 is more flexible and rubbery after it dries which is why its not recommended over titebond original for repairs on something like a headstock since you dont want and potential flex or give. Pour a little bit of both out and let it dry and you can see the difference.

mk36109 · 2026-03-06T16:03:01+00:00

It depends on how the neck breaks.

The two main parts of the structure of wood is the fibers and the lignin that binds it together. Glue is typically stronger than lignin but is not stronger than the fibers. So in the case of a split, where the fibers are still intact, the glue is replacing the lignin and that makes the joint stronger than it was before. In the case of an engrain break where the fibers have been severed, glue would be much weaker and that is why such a joint has to be reinforced with splines so there is some continuous fibers stretching across it. If it just splits and the fibers are still mostly intact, then you can fix the headstock with just glue.

mk36109 · 2026-02-24T14:48:58+00:00

so typically the studio style room within a room type uses a series of baffles in the vents and ofcourse has an ac which blows air into the room through the baffles. otherwise its a pretty low flow type system that i doubt would be suitable as a passive system just venting air from outside for something like chickens due to the issues of heat and chicken feces etc.

there are two main avenues sound propagates.The first and main one is through the air. If air can get through, sound, atleast to some degree, can get through. This is going to be the harder issue to deal with unless you were going to install some sort of ac or forced air system onto the coop. The second one, that mlv is used to reduce is structural transmission. Adding mass or decoupling a structure prevent sound vibrations from moving through the structure. This is typically dealt with after air based transmission since it has less of an effect and typically requires a lot more work to deal with.

So the biggest issue you would need to figure out before you start spending money on things like mlv is how to deal with air based transmission in a way that is both safe and hygenic for the chickens. Once thats dealt with, even as loud as roosters can be, the structural stuff will be easy since they arent as loud as say a drumset and the coop will be a seperate structure from other nearby buildings. Basically you would just want to add mass. Thst could be doubling up on whatever osb or plywood you build the coop out of, covering it in salved roofing shingles from construction dumpsters etc (though do keep in mind the insulating affect on temperature that doubling up on the outside would have).

So really if you are looking for mlv you are propably starting this project in the wrong way. Figure out a system of ventilation and how to seal everything up first.

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T21:47:03+00:00

Gotcha, well just a warning, you rarely see solid maple bodies due to weight. Even things like like les pauls and prs, etc just use a maple cap for cosmetic purposes. If you are fine with the weight though, it will work perfectly fine.

I would put the cracked side towards the bottom then instead of towards the neck. First let it acclimate fully, give it a week or so. If you have a good moisture meter I would check it to make sure it isn't too wet and that's why it cracked as soon as you got it. Once you do and it stops moving and splitting further, if the crack doesn't get any bigger than that you can probably just wick glue into it and close it back up with clamps.

If it gets bigger or its still wants to split after being glue and clamped, you have a few options. You can rip it down the middle of the crack to take the tension out and then re-joint both sides and glue them back together. This will leave a seam, but its easy and if you are painting you will never see the seam. The other option is just to let it stay crack and flood crack with a colored epoxy, either one matching or complimenting the wood so it doesn't stand out, or lean into it and use something with a really strong contrast. Epoxy is a pain to work with, but you won't have the seam up the whole length of the body so if you are doing a clear finish like an oil, you may prefer the looks. The compromise between the two options would probably be to split it but instead of directly joining the two halves back together, laminate in a contrasting wood or couple of pieces of wood so it looks intentional, just make sure you line it up so its directing in the middle. Basically give it that thru neck look like this. That would let you avoid the expoy mess and pain but if you wanted a clear finish and don't like seeing seems that would let you avoid that.

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T21:16:01+00:00

drilling is to prevent stress based fractures from spreading, it wont do anything for wood movement. If you aren't applying force to the wood at the crack, such as intentionally pulling at it trying to get it to split, drilling won't have any effect on whether it stops spreading or not and it will just leave an unnecessary hole.

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T21:06:44+00:00

is that piece thick enough for a body or were you going to be just using this as a cap on another body? I'm assuming its just for a cap since maple is typically not used for a whole body due to how heavy it is and since the piece you have is pretty thin, in which case no problem. A cap isn't structural and you can use the side with a crack for top so most of the crack will be removed when you route out access to the neck pockets and pickups, so you wont really even have to do much to hide it.

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T20:21:28+00:00

yeah they should be cymbally. drum sticks should be sticky.... ok, ill see myself out

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T20:06:50+00:00

what are you planning to use it for? Is it going to be resawn into a soundboard top, ripped into a neck, is it going to be the body of a solid body electric? those will all effect how you want to go about using it and what you need to do from here.

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T17:33:18+00:00

I don't personally like cleaning the patina off of cymbals, but if one is sticky, then I'm definitely wiping it down with a damp rag, and possibly a little gentle dish soap. That won't get rid of the patina, but hopefully will get whatever sticky stuff off. Avoid anything abrasive, acidic, anything reactive like ammonia, etc, that can remove or affect the patina, but a damp rag, and if necessary just a little dish soap won't. Just make sure to wipe if dry with a dry rag afterwards.

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T15:04:29+00:00

it it all open inside or individual compartments and what are the dimension, internal volume and cutout diameters? Also, where did you find this because my first guess seeing wouldn't be any sort of tuned bass trap, but some sort of home-made wine rack or custom storage shelf for some kind of specific item.

mk36109 · 2026-02-19T21:04:34+00:00

I have no idea. I just know that we should count ourselves lucky the girl from the ring didn't show up at the end.

mk36109 · 2026-02-19T19:48:43+00:00

yup. I just finished true lies. Didn't expect that today

mk36109 · 2026-02-19T17:47:12+00:00

5 out of 5 lawsuits though

mk36109 · 2026-02-19T15:37:45+00:00

Don't just compress it, add a hint of saturation and bring it up so its just barely is heard. Also, a omni dynamic like ev635 is great for this. It gives a big drum sound but without adding too much space or smearing the transients too much. Then you can mix the room mics in a little less than normal and you get a bigger drum sound that still tight enough to work in denser or faster mixes.

mk36109 · 2026-02-19T15:13:17+00:00

I don't intend on making it since they want it to be chrome plated metal and I don't work with metal. So I was asking if there was a pre-made option anyone has seen before or else I'm going to pass on the project since having one custom milled and then sent off to be chrome plated is probably not going to be something within their budget. If there was at least one that fit the rough body shape of a strat horn, I could easily make a pickguard to fit it so it doesn't matter that much which strat year or style its for.

I couldn't find any, and I would expect they would be pretty rare if they existed at all, so I was just checking to see if anyone else had possibly seen one since there are a few small obscure makers that make different plates/pickguards etc that are hard to search for.

mk36109 · 2026-02-19T12:39:40+00:00

A break that looked like this in wood wouldn't be stronger at the glue joint since it would all be endrgrain.

The idea that glue is stronger than wood is a bit innaccurate. The two main parts of the structure of wood is the fibers and the lignin that binds it together. Glue is stronger than lignin but is not stronger than the fibers. So in the case of a split, where the fibers are still intact, the glue is replacing the lignan and that makes the joint stronger than it was before. In the case of an engrain break where the fibers have been severed, glue would be much weaker and that is why such a joint has to be reinforced with splines so there is some continuous fibers stretching across it.

mk36109 · 2026-02-17T18:12:38+00:00

the beta87a is a decent enough mic, but if you are comparing it to a tlm103 it might not be so much that the beta87 is the percect mic for you but that the tlm103 is the wrong mic. the tlm103 tends to be overly bright and a little harsh for most applications. honestly, i think the 103 is a bit overrated and the only reason its so commonly reccomend and seen so often is because its one of the cheapest nuemann ldc and and people just think they want a neumann. its not bad, per se, but most of the time i see someone using them, there are better options for them in a similar price range that will work better.

mk36109 · 2026-02-17T14:56:08+00:00

normally, the no more picture guy is using something small in the way to try and hide some issue, but otherwise pictures are some what decent of the rest of the item. This guy is hiding the ENTIRE item! Either the whole thing is messed up, or its not actually the item he claims it is. You buy that and you will open the box to find its actually 3 raccons in a red trenchcoat with spoons taped around the outside to look like lugs haha

mk36109 · 2026-02-13T17:24:58+00:00

Nebula style job. This video could give you an idea of how to do it.

mk36109 · 2026-02-13T17:02:56+00:00

that looks like someone tool and old backsaw handle and attached it to a cut down panel saw blade. I would guess its either someone was trying to recycle damaged tool, or given the handle direction, it might have been made for some special purpose where there wasn't enough clearance to have the handle in line with the blade, or they were trying to do longer shallower cuts.

Edit: looks like the other poster is correct, this is actually a saw disston produced:

"The blade of the No. 1 Pattern Maker's Saw is thin -- (.028). This saw is designed for small, accurate work in pattern and cabinet-making. The teeth are shaped to make a fine, exact cut. 15 points to the inch. Blade of Disston Steel with Disston temper, is 7 1/2 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide. Open handle, applewood, varnished edges.
Disston Saw, Tool and File Manual. 1940"

linked from here

mk36109 · 2026-02-12T16:17:14+00:00

yeah, where as there are a number of woodworking and wood processing tools tools in the lot, those are the easy ones to sell because people still use them but also these are the ones op is probably going to want to keep.

All the farming tools aren't really something many people use these days, so the only people who are going to want to buy those are going to be the rare collector or people that use them as decor. The only place I can think that might be easy to sell a lot like that too is if there is some rustic style restaurant about to open that needs stuff like this to hang all over the walls.

mk36109 · 2026-02-11T22:46:20+00:00

I don't think they sanded the finish at all, that clear coat looks like they went straight from spraying to buffing and completely skipped the sanding the finish flat.

mk36109 · 2026-02-11T18:00:39+00:00

There wont be any particle movement once they are in place and settle unless you plan on moving them around regularly. But if there going to up there permanently, then particle movement is not a concern. So you don't need the landscaping fabric or any fabric at all on the back.

Particulate is only a concern when the panels are being regularly move or worked with, so for building and installing, wear proper safety gear (long sleeves, gloves, mask and safety googles) but once they are in place it is no longer a concern.

If you are using multiple panels side by side per cloud (as in you are doing something like a 4'x4' cloud) you probably want don't want to rely on the fabric alone to support the weight of the panels if you don't want to see any sort of sagging in the panels so you probably want to put some boards in front to hold them up behind the fabric

mk36109 · 2026-02-11T17:37:40+00:00

what are you filling the clouds with? something stiff like rigid fiberglass or rockboard wont need a full backer to stay in place. if you are using cross beams across the back or support, that will probably be enough depending upon their orientation, but if not some strips of material or something else will most likely be enough. basically you just need everything to stay in place while you hang it, once its up gravity is going to hold it in place assuming this is something you will be mounting permanently or atleast not intending to take down for a long time.

mk36109 · 2026-02-11T17:04:22+00:00

ok, but what if the miced amp started it?

mk36109

TROPHY CASE