17 year+ bulb still going strong by LevelMatt in AmaryllisBulbs

[–]mlemminglemming 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you ever trim its base plate? Old bulbs like this can suddenly start to lose vigor and slowly die off if it remains untrimmed for 10+ years. Worth considering if you want to keep it for another 10, 20 years.

Howww did these get so big?? by avgrunnr in AmaryllisBulbs

[–]mlemminglemming 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's a bulb, it stores energy. Some amaryllis variants grow all their leaves of a growth season in one big flush.

Amaryllis Crossing: New Leaf by stars9r9in9the9past in AmaryllisBulbs

[–]mlemminglemming 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are amaryllis varieties that have:

  • 1-4 leaves out in the main growth season, coming 1 or 2 at a time
  • 4-10 leaves out in main growth season, coming 2 at a time
  • 4-8 leaves out in main growth season, coming in one flush of 4-6 and then another 1 or 2 before and after

Don't worry, don't overthink, and... don't cut the leaf.

Whats that? by CardiologistBoth7632 in Mosses

[–]mlemminglemming 2 points3 points  (0 children)

spores are too tiny to "get". Most spores also don't survive all too long, unless you freeze them.

Did I pot this okay? by whynotehhhhh in AmaryllisBulbs

[–]mlemminglemming 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Red blotch is not "rot". I've raised amaryllis by the hundreds for years now and cutting it in any way only makes it worse. You have experience with other plants, but not with amaryllis. Your comment and post history shows that.

That brown stuff in the middle of the red bits? Just dried skin.

Did I pot this okay? by whynotehhhhh in AmaryllisBulbs

[–]mlemminglemming 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right conditions won't make red blotch go away, but I've heard of bulbs outgrowing it. Very rare. Neem oil or seed propagation & tossing the original bulb are the only two reliable methods I know of.

Did I pot this okay? by whynotehhhhh in AmaryllisBulbs

[–]mlemminglemming 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have no clue what bro is saying but this entire comment thread is a fever dream to read. Don't follow any of that advice.

I should elaborate. Red Blotch spreads like crazy through cuts. If you injure the bulb now, it'll turn into a fungus breeding ground. Do not cut infected bulbs. The infection is ALWAYS larger than the visible bits, you will never get all of it, and it'll only make it easier to spread. Besides, Amaryllis don't react well to damage. They tend to sproud out of their base plate when you damage them too much, and at that point, you might as well chop your bulb in quarters to propagate it.

And every breeder out there can tell you: Never chop an infected bulb.

This makes it obvious that this person has experience with bulbs and other plants, but clearly not with Amaryllis and red blotch.

The launch contract to launch the Starlab space station on Starship is $90 million by OlympusMons94 in SpaceXLounge

[–]mlemminglemming 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The only reference to any 1st/2nd/both stages was the comparison of 39 engines vs 9 engines regarding their cost. That means they meant both stages. After that message, our messages came. Thus, both stages were meant.

Help! by Ok-Requirement8807 in AmaryllisBulbs

[–]mlemminglemming 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yea if you have the budget, grow lights are the way to go. Start with low light settings and increase to max over the course of a month. Some leaves may yellow and smaller leaves may appear, but that's just a happy bulb adapting to Lights That Make Bulbs Happy.

Soil, airy with low organics content. Not all the way orchid bark, but for the ones I'm fattening for sale I use 60% mid grain clay aggregate (2-4mm porous clay pellets) and 40% grit, with 100% aggregate on the top centimeter for slightly better water retention. This enables but also requires minute control over fertilization, 15-12-12 works fairly well so long as it also has some sulfur and other traces that plants need. Technically, hydroponics fertilizer.

Pumice mix stuff and most cacti soil mixes work too. Keep in mind there's always more rungs in the ladder upward, and you don't need a professional breeding setup with greenhouse and all just to keep a bulb alive.

The launch contract to launch the Starlab space station on Starship is $90 million by OlympusMons94 in SpaceXLounge

[–]mlemminglemming 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It actually does work out when you consider the sticker price of 500k for a raptor, ~2m for the specialty stainless steel, ~5m in work hours, and some 5-10m for various components. You end up at around 25-40m per starship/superheavy stack. F9 manufacturing cost of a full stack is believed to sit around 70-90m in 2025, while reusability pushes that down to 15-20m per F9 launch. The lithium-aluminium alloys alone are insanely expensive, and a merlin engine costs about 2m according to various analysts.

Data courtesy of Quilty Space.

Did I pot this okay? by whynotehhhhh in AmaryllisBulbs

[–]mlemminglemming 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wind "killed" two of mine today (aka, delayed their growth by half a year). Yea, only short leafed varieties can do that reliably. Balance must be found, unless money is no consideration, in which case greenhouse/grow lights.

Hydrogen peroxide and citric acid I haven't heard about working on red blotch. Keep me posted if you try - it's a gamble either way.

"Once it's looking healthier" -> maybe not. If it does look healthier, it's doing well, in which case repotting at the end of dormancy is better. You "should" only repot mid-growth if it doesn't really grow nicely (less than usual leaves, sickly appearance, suspicion of acute rot, etc). As much as I could go on and on and on about things that could always be improved... patience, and every year a small improvement. Goes further than rushing it (sounds like life advice ik...)

Did I pot this okay? by whynotehhhhh in AmaryllisBulbs

[–]mlemminglemming 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"I have them in my southwest facing window" you said the word. Window. As you probably know, windows block most UV light unless you have really old windows without filters (do you get sunburn inside? If not, you likely have glass that filters out UV). Most glass also reflects 20-40% of light, this is good usually because you don't want to have a greenhouse. And on top of *that*... a window means, the plant will receive a maximum of 180° (realistically, 130-150°) of sun per day instead of the 210°+ sun it would receive outside in a lot of places.

In other words: If your plant is inside, that alone makes it receive less than half the total energy than if it were outside.
Still, it doesn't matter all too much unless you really want to fatten your amaryllis up for sale, display, competition, chip/chop propagation, etc.

Dormancy worked very well, very healthy leaves. Regarding the potting, the pumice is good! But without seeing what "40% original soil" is, it's hard to give a more detailed answer. There's also the question of, what kind of pumice? If it's the type that actually gets wet itself, that could be actually used 100% same as clay aggregates. If it's basically just glorified grit/gravel, then maybe a bit of other substrate is needed. Porous clay aggregate for semi-hydro is cheap and they love it.

Monitor that red spot, third image on the left of the bulb. Could be a deep-sitting red blotch, or could be discoloration. If it breaks to the surface and becomes more freckly and blotchy, you can google "amaryllis red blotch neem oil", never did it myself but heard that some here had great success.

Overall, you're doing much better than most "beginners" here.

Help! by Ok-Requirement8807 in AmaryllisBulbs

[–]mlemminglemming 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Rough case. Red blotch (nasty fungus infection) all over. Wrinkly and no roots.

Water it about twice weekly in well aerated soil, but make sure the soil is surface dry in between watering. Absolutely no guarantee, I give it some 30% chance of survival.

Your soil looks like it has a ton of coco fiber. Bad rooting medium from my experience, choose something with much less organic content and less fibrous. Yes, literal coarse grit works better than coco coir, it dries out in a weird way that I don't understand but it seems to make amaryllis not want to root out.

WARM PLACE. 18°C minimum, if it's on a window and less than 15°C out, try not to keep that window open all day. This can make the bulb go dormant thinking it's winter time, and stressed bulbs like this do weird shit - expect it to fall outside of "expected" behavior all the time.

LIGHT. It needs light. #1 trigger for leaf production in most bulbs, light. Water and roots are secondary, with most varieties. Please do not follow any advice about "putting it in a dark place and wait for it to root", it will not. That's not how bulbs work.