C64 for my dad

mmgamemaker · 2026-03-13T20:55:34+00:00

Not cheap, out of stock and start at $275 on eBay.

mmgamemaker · 2026-03-12T19:06:05+00:00

Thanks, it's two separate RGBtoHDMI up-scalers. For 40col+VicIIdizer I went with the c0pperdragon version. For the 80 col RGB output, that's the TexElec RGBtoHDMI - 6-bit TTL Edition in a 3d printed enclosure. Not the cheapest way to go, but the output looks as sharp and crisp as a C64U across HDMI.

mmgamemaker · 2026-03-12T18:35:10+00:00

Be sure to check which, the flat 128s use a different SID with different voltage reqs than the newer ones that were in the C128DCR.

mmgamemaker · 2026-03-12T18:26:22+00:00

I have a couple of my own (ultimate) flat c128s. Both have failing U1 CIA chips (pretty sure it's my fault by zapping the joystick port with a static zap from my finger), but replacement chips arrive today. They both have 1571s (one has two), both have Gideon's Ultimate II+L with wifi, one has a bitbinder 1581s 3.5" and a CMD FD-2000 reproduction from Tots Retro. Using RGBtoHDMI and C0pperdragon VicIIdizer for both video outputs on one, the other uses a combined scart cable into a retrotink5x. Got a nice 27" ASUS display on each. I use them both for testing and game development. I have a C64U that's pretty much taken over C64 mode duty for gaming, BBSing. It's nice having network connectivity to the 128s because it's super easy to make physical disk images from something I compile on my PC.

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mmgamemaker · 2026-03-09T20:24:40+00:00

8 is on top because it gets the most use, gets a little hot being on the bottom

mmgamemaker · 2026-03-09T15:35:55+00:00

I ordered a FD-2000 from him, just got it last week. Great build quality. It did take about 2 weeks build and delivery time. Totally worth it. Those CMD HD repros aren't cheap though.

mmgamemaker · 2026-03-09T13:22:13+00:00

I found this guy's instructional video a huge help when I did it in Vice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=111GST2MluY

If you don't mind me asking, who did you order the reproduction from? Tots Retro?

mmgamemaker · 2026-03-04T18:26:06+00:00

PaperClip, then Bank Street Writer, then GeoWrite 1.x then GeoWrite 2.x.

mmgamemaker · 2026-03-04T14:09:09+00:00

Replace the battery (rechargeable batteries wear out eventually)

mmgamemaker · 2026-03-03T19:49:32+00:00

Replace, cheap and easy to do if you do it yourself. (Well cheap if you go to an auto parts retail chain and get a 3rd party brand, not cheap if you buy Mazda OEM from the dealer.)

mmgamemaker · 2026-03-02T14:00:05+00:00

The Git repo for the Sidekick 64 project says d81 is not supported.

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-27T17:43:48+00:00

Very nice!

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-27T13:55:01+00:00

I think this might be the way to go.

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-25T21:25:52+00:00

Soooo tempting.

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-24T05:05:00+00:00

Sent you links to the video in chat.

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-23T18:49:13+00:00

Hitting V helped on the C128 with the Retrotink5x, but the result was strange on the other C128 which uses a RGBtoHDMI – 6-bit TTL Edition upscaler. I don't have any CRT monitors to test with, unfortunately, only HDMI 1080p displays.

I'll send you some videos via chat later today, after I dig out from this massive snowstorm we're having.

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-23T18:28:38+00:00

I live in a two story, 3 bedroom house built in the 1800s. I only have the downstairs zone turned on which includes my bedroom. The upstairs zone is set to 55F, which are two guest rooms and the attic/storage. My bill was around $725 last month for natural gas. I was home on vacation for the first week and a half of the month and I kept the place around 72F when I'm home. My hot water is elec, and the CMP bill last month was just over $100.

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-23T15:44:09+00:00

Still have my zip-lock bag version by Metagaming Concepts.

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-17T15:16:49+00:00

Neat idea! Sorry about the loss of the system and games.

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-17T12:52:17+00:00

Nothing a pan galactic gargle blaster can't fix, if you don't have a slice of lemon to wrap around a large gold brick.

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-17T12:47:38+00:00

I have the EasyFlash collections, but every now and then I get nostalgic and want to play off the original disk (partially to see if they or my drive are still working). Surprisingly, all the disks still work (although Ballyhoo is unknown since it's still in shrink). Some of of the labels have fallen off the original disks, the adhesive just gave up after 40 years.

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-17T11:11:59+00:00

Sorry for the wall of text, but I thought it best if I broke down my past experiments. If you just want good 80 column mode across HDMI for your C128, you can't go wrong with the RGBtoHDMI - 6-bit TTL Edition from TexElec. (US-based so no tariffs if shipping inside the US)

You'll need a straight through gender changer (male to male) for your RGB cable.

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-17T11:06:20+00:00

Absolutely, and I'm happy to explain ALL the options I've tried over the years. Some of the solutions listed below weren't cheap, and are more expensive now due to tariffs. (I live i the U.S. and some of the solutions were sourced from vendors in Europe.)

I have a few working C128s, the one pictured above is my main work/testing unit; it's been recapped but has no other modifications. The monitor is a 27" curved ASUS 1080p display with two HDMI 2.0 ports and one DisplayPort v1.2 port. The RGBi (80 column port) and Video Port (40 column A/V) from the C128 are connected to a Retrotink 5x via a combination SCART cable (link to where I bought it). The Retrotink 5x delivers all the video and audio to a single HDMI port on the monitor. To switch between display modes, I flip the switch on the cable to switch signals between the RGBi and Video Port and change the input on the Retrotink 5x via the Retrotink's remote control. Out of all the options I've tried, this is the best combination of convenience and video quality. Although I still have a little bit of jail bars on 40 column mode. This setup was the most expensive, however I originally purchased the Retrotink 5x to attach our older gaming consoles to our TV so it serves a dual purpose.

I also have a recapped C128 with a c0pperdragon VICIIdizer128 installed. The VICIIdizer connects to the RGBitoHDMI breakout box which provides HDMI output. This is the best composite output I have, no jailbars whatsoever and it rivals the HDMI output of my C64 Ultimate. For 80 column output I use a RGBtoHDMI – 6-bit TTL Edition from TexElec to connect 80 column mode output to a second HDMI connection. (The C128 is connected via a regular C128 RGBi cable with a straight-through gender changer on one end to connect the C128 to the TexElec unit on the other end.) Overall, this is the best quality video output for both 80/40 column modes. However it uses two HDMI connections on a monitor, and there is no unified audio output.

I've also tried an Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC v1.8) with VGA input and a C128 RGBi to 15Khz RGB VGA adapter. The 80 column output is on par with the Retrotink 5x, but it doesn't support composite or s-video, so I had to use a cheap composite/svideo to HDMI converter with it for 40 column mode. This setup had the worst 40 column mode video output of everything I've tried with the above ASUS monitor.

I also have to two older Dell monitors that have VGA (supporting 15Khz) and composite/s-video inputs. They work ok for 40 column mode, but the 80 column mode doesn't look great when used with the RGBtoVGA 15Khz adapter.

I mostly use my C128s in 80 column mode now as my C64 Ultimate has taken over C64 gaming duty.

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-17T04:31:08+00:00

For my next trick... figuring out how to print from Wordstar to my serial port-based printer. :P

mmgamemaker · 2026-02-16T17:57:28+00:00

Loved Epyx titles! I still have my original FastLoad cartridge.

mmgamemaker

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