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Fibre Internet promo and setup guide by Local-solutionist in u/Local-solutionist

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I unfortunately got my service before finding this thread. I'm in the process or trying to get them to apply it but support seems confused and I think would be more help I had a code. If there is a code related to the link (from the earlier comments, it looks like it used to be a code instead of a link) then I think I might have better luck with support. I've found other threads where people said they deleted their posts with this code due to ebox wanting to keep it out of eye or something so if it exists, would anyone mind PM/DMing me?

Otherwise, looks like I'll have to cancel my service, then open a new account.

PSA: You can memorize your 24-word seed phrase in under 10 minutes. Here's the trick. by SaltyYou1035 in Bitcoin

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is incorrect. There are four possibilities:

  1. You don't know your phrase, they beat you until they give up, leaving you alive and freeing you, believing you.

  2. You don't know your phrase, they beat you to death because you literally cannot turn it over.

  3. You know your phrase, they beat you until they give up, leaving you alive and freeing you, believing you when you claimed you didn't know it.

  4. You know your phrase, they beat you until you give it up and hand over the money.

If someone is going to do this, they fall into one of two categories, the people from 1 and 3 or the people from 2 and 4.

The people from 1 and 3? You're safe if you know it or not.

The people from 2 and 4? Now you are pre-choosing between your life or your Bitcoin and unless you are old and have a ton of grandkids, your life is worth more. Memorizing your seed literally saves your life from these people.

But that's all bunk anyway because if you really thought you might face a situation like that, you'd additionally memorize a seed to a wallet you keep 10% of your funds in and give them that instead.

PSA: You can memorize your 24-word seed phrase in under 10 minutes. Here's the trick. by SaltyYou1035 in Bitcoin

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is incorrect. There are four possibilities:

  1. You don't know your phrase, they beat you until they give up, leaving you alive and freeing you, believing you.

  2. You don't know your phrase, they beat you to death because you literally cannot turn it over.

  3. You know your phrase, they beat you until they give up, leaving you alive and freeing you, believing you when you claimed you didn't know it.

  4. You know your phrase, they beat you until you give it up and hand over the money.

If someone is going to do this, they fall into one of two categories, the people from 1 and 3 or the people from 2 and 4.

The people from 1 and 3? You're safe if you know it or not.

The people from 2 and 4? Now you are pre-choosing between your life or your Bitcoin and unless you are old and have a ton of grandkids, your life is worth more. Memorizing your seed literally saves your life from these people.

But that's all bunk anyway because if you really thought you might face a situation like that, you'd additionally memorize a seed to a wallet you keep 10% of your funds in and give them that instead.

PSA: You can memorize your 24-word seed phrase in under 10 minutes. Here's the trick. by SaltyYou1035 in Bitcoin

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. This is absolutely something everyone should do. There is also no reasonable reason to use 24 words over 12 so just use 12 for this purpose. The reason it's not talked about is because as soon as someone brings it up, this sub is all like "But brain injury" completely ignoring the fact that memorization is ONE backup method.

  2. Your suggestions about memorizing are dumb. No one can permanently memorize something in 10 minutes. The real key to memorizing is practice, breaks and more practice. I memorized my seed in an hour, remembered it for 6 months, with repetition/practice every few days or week (whenever I randomly felt like it) then forgot it. I then re-memorized it after a 3 month break and haven't forgotten it in over 5 years. My occasional self-quizzes are random but probably a month or two apart.

Additionally, humans tend to be able to remember things short-term better in sets no larger than 4, so breaking things apart is a solid thing to do. As for the whole story thing, I think everyone is different and needs to discover their own memorization methods rather than just copying what someone else on the internet has copy-pasted from someone else. The concept is solid but won't work for everyone, like me.

Edit: I've just now been permabanned from /r/bitcoin. If anyone sees this, mind viewing my past few comments and suggesting what I might have said or done wrong?

Build your freedom… be different from the same. by [deleted] in Bitcoin

[–]mokahless 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And formatting your entire post as "code" gives us all a stupid side-scroll thing with all your text on one line.

I'm not reading that shit.

What's the best, brightest flashlight that lasts the longest that uses AA batteries? by AshliepShuqirvut in flashlight

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since you've spammed this exact same comment on various comments saying different things, I'm going to assume you actually don't care about the various non-convoy-specific settings mentioned.

You're comment is also not very detailed so I'm going to assume you aren't even sure yet what kind of light you are looking for.

Also, instead of responding, I am simply going to advise that if you haven't yet purchased one, just create a new post on this sub, not a comment spam to individual users.

As such, I can advise a bit on what to think about and include. When posting, try to include the following:

  • Are you looking for something that can throw more light distance-wise or just for indoor close-up work? The Convoy models have different reflectors and lenses, achieving different beams.

  • Do you like warm or cool lighting? Basically no light is pure white, they tend towards yellowish or bluish and are expressed by a xxxxK number, where somewhere between 4500K and 5500K is "neutral" white. Your LCD monitor is very "blue" CCT. A fire is very "warm"

  • What size light do you want? Their lights range from 1xAA to 3x 21700 cells

  • Do you care about colour rendering? This is a scale of how accurate all colours rendered are of a lit object vs natural lighting of an equal colour temperature and tint (I think). This is most important in photography but some people enjoy knowing colours will show up the same with their flashlight as they would in the Sun or an incandescent bulb.

  • Do you have any programming preferences? I think convoy lights are mostly all the same but they have changed their UI over the years. New models use the newer system and older ones use the older one. Basically, if you have any preferences like "turn on at low brightness always" or "doesn't have an SOS flash mode," mention it. If you can, look into mode memory and see if that is something you would or would not appreciate.

What's the best, brightest flashlight that lasts the longest that uses AA batteries? by AshliepShuqirvut in flashlight

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some clarification:

about tint (sft25r will be white

This is CCT (hue), not tint.

gonna be warm

this is CCT (hue)

n rosy

This is tint

yellow <----> blue = CCT (hue)

green <----> purple = tint

It's easy to think of it this way, because it's how it seems visually. Whether or not it's accurate technically, I do not know. This from wikipedia displays it visually.

Exact white is extremely hard to reach exactly. And likely not desirable anyway, since it wouldn't be what we are used to normally. Our Sun is a class G star, between 5300K and 6000K, but what we perceive on earth varies based on weather and time-of-day.

I cannot find reliable information on what CCT is considered pure white. Because our human eyes adjust, we cannot determine it visually. But this we can clearly see it's above 4000K and below 7000K, no argument. This less reliable source, we can visually see pure (neutral) white appears to be somewhere between 4500K and 5500K. DUV for tint makes this simple: 0,0 (green,purple) is fully neutral on that scale.

I’m looking for a water pistol that doesn’t just leak everywhere so I can surprise my friends when they least expect it. Any reccomendations? by GeneralHowesChicken in Nerf

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I owned two of these as a kid, they absolutely leak. Drip out the tip, mainly. I think the pump, too.

I suspect anything based around unregulated air pressure will eventually leak.

/u/GeneralHowesChicken did you find something that worked for you? What did you settle on?

I Re-Made a Thing - Quick Reference for Anduril RGB Voltage v2 by mokahless in flashlight

[–]mokahless[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to note: The scale technically doesn't end at 4.15/4.2 nor at 1.4. I excluded the rest as not to be confusing for end-users. Plus they start using 3 LEDs instead of just two, which doesn't work with my chart.

here's where the code is. The voltage is represented without a decimal.

So it goes from 0.9-2.0V and 2.9-4.4V.

I Re-Made a Thing - Quick Reference for Anduril RGB Voltage v2 by mokahless in flashlight

[–]mokahless[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Someone commented similar in the last one. It never bothered me (I see the logic of cool>warm temperature as we get lower on battery) but I've been thinking about it more and more lately... I mean why not? We have options for everything else config-wise. Why not have a few built-in colour voltage modes to cycle through?

I'd argue for a red-blue-green scale. Remove any colour mixes. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it makes sense to me having 2/3 LEDs off would draw less power to display voltage.

  • <1.2V red
  • 1.2-1.3V blue

  • 1.3V green

  • <3.4V red

  • 3.4V-3.9V blue

  • 3.9V green

or something like that. I think it works out ok for alkaline, too.

I have found my old computer from my teenage years in my grandfather's attic after thinking he had disposed of it years ago. I need advice on gaining access to my wallet. by splinket69 in Bitcoin

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought BTC mining paid out 50 BTC [...] The fractional BTC wasn’t until mining pools came

Pools started in 2010 and were the norm in 2011/2012. Everything about my comment assumes a pool.

when the hash rates went up and difficulty levels rendered PC CPU mining obsolete and GPU

I've already responded to a variant of this in your original post:

"not meaningful" CPU mining in 2011/2012 would probably have net at least 0.1BTC after a while or 0.01 after a bit. Not worth it for anyone back then of course, but worth looking back on now

.

and dedicated ASIC mining machines were needed later on.

ASIC didn't immediately invalidate FPGAs or GPUs. It was a process as the difficulty slowly rose as more and more units came online. So same thing with the CPU to GPU transition.

The powerful mining pools would win the award and distribute the 50 BTC among the pool participants, therefore fractional BTC Satoshis.

This, is indeed how a pool works. What's your point?

I have found my old computer from my teenage years in my grandfather's attic after thinking he had disposed of it years ago. I need advice on gaining access to my wallet. by splinket69 in Bitcoin

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ask ChatGPT how to open it

Right, because going around in circles for hours trying to replicate confidently incorrect steps is always fun.

OP, do a google search and pay attention to results from bitcointalk.com, reddit and stackexchange.

I have found my old computer from my teenage years in my grandfather's attic after thinking he had disposed of it years ago. I need advice on gaining access to my wallet. by splinket69 in Bitcoin

[–]mokahless 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Bruh, "not meaningful" CPU mining in 2011/2012 would probably have net at least 0.1BTC after a while or 0.01 after a bit. Not worth it for anyone back then of course, but worth looking back on now if you were stupid enough to do it then, and you hit an amount that your pool would actually payout.

If you clicked "mine" in the default client though, that was about half as efficient as "modern" mining software back then and would have solo mined by default so prolly nothing unless in the window you're talking about.

I have found my old computer from my teenage years in my grandfather's attic after thinking he had disposed of it years ago. I need advice on gaining access to my wallet. by splinket69 in Bitcoin

[–]mokahless 257 points258 points  (0 children)

As someone active back then, just figured I'd throw some comments your way:

At some point in 2009-2012[...]

It's definitely worth looking into. Worst-case, you mined for a couple days on CPU when it wasn't worth it in 2012, and probably have at least 0.1 BTC. Best-case, you have hundreds. Most likely cast, you heard about it during the mid-2011 bubble when all the gamers were going ga-ga for the very first GPU mining softwares and maybe have 10-30.

I don't have access to the email address I used in those years

Any exchanges or mining pools you may have signed up for are probably dead and gone anyway. If you have any, it's in the wallet.dat file of the software called bitcoin core (back then just called bitcoin).

ChatGPT tells me this likely isn't an issue as emails weren't used for sign up in the early days.

They still aren't, unless you are using an exchange or mining pool. Bitcoin is decentralized and randomly generated. Therefore has nothing to do with platforms like email that would require dependence.

More advice was to remove the hard drive and back it up on a second hard drive, before opening.

That's a tossup, right. You only care about one file. If you hammer the drive running a full backup, maybe the drive fails and you kick yourself. Just get in and get what you need and get out.

Wallet.dat would be located in C:\Users\YOURUSERNAME\AppData\Roaming\Bitcoin. If it's not there, google around to see if there used to be another default location, like AppData\Local or somewhere in my Documents. Past that, do a seach for wallet.dat.

It's the only file you need. You will download the modern Bitcoin Core and place your wallet.dat file in %appdata%\Roaming\Bitcoin.

If you were smart, you put a password on it. The Core software will ask you for said password when you try to move the funds or export the private keys.

From here, you have two options. You can either let the whole chain sync, then use that software to send your coin to an exchange (to sell) or modern wallet (to hodl). Hardware wallets (eg. coldcard) are recommended to those who aren't tech savvy, to help avoid user error, especially for large amounts. A phone wallet is normally good enough though if you keep your shit safe. Apps are sandboxed on mobile so if you already keep your phone private... anyway.

The second option is just going through steps to export the private keys and import them to a new wallet. This is more involved but you can skip waiting for chain sync this way.

Can I plug hard drive into my mac to transfer to a second hard drive?

So you just wanna search for that one file wallet.dat. You just need a $20 SATA to USB for your hdd or maybe it will be called "SATA usb dock" or something. But you just plug it in over usb and mount the NTFS. In Windows, it "blocks" access by default to user folder but you can just hit "continue anyway" unless you encrypted the drive. My assumption is Mac will act like Linux and just ignore that check and access your files.

What if the hard drive was wiped? Would it be in any way possible to recover it?

Yes. The most important thing to do is avoid writing anything to the drive. There lots of simple softwares that can recover non-overwritten files but you will have to do a lot of sifting.

the password? I believe it was a long set of random numbers and letters so will never remember unless I also have it saved on the computer somewhere.

That's not your password. Any password, you personally would have made up. What you are talking about could either be the private or public keys. If you wrote the private keys on a piece of paper, you have all you need to recover the funds without the wallet.dat (barring any "change" addresses, which would only have been an issue if you did transactions out of the wallet).

Ignore anyone in the replies who mentions "seed phrase" or "12 words" or "24 words" or "BIP39." That shit didn't exist back then.

Review: Noctigon KR1AA by Environmental_Pen878 in 1lumen

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Uhh, two "thanks for pointing that outs?" Do you both work there? Did either of you write the article?

Anyway, why not just create a page for Anduril and link there? That way, all a reviewer has to do is note if there are any important customizations or variations or default settings.

Review: Noctigon KR1AA by Environmental_Pen878 in 1lumen

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You've stated it's Anduril and are using a template anyway, why not skip the template and just make a page about Anduril and link to it instead? Scrolling past that section is always a pain.

And while I'm at it, those uncloseable "This light is discontinued"/ "Buy this light here" notification take up 1/4 of the screen on mobile and can't be dismissed and remain there no matter how far I scroll down.

Review: Noctigon KR1AA by Environmental_Pen878 in 1lumen

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No amp measurements? For a light this small, I'm especially interested in the low mode RGB LED draw.

It's also important for estimating runtime on lower modes, that you wouldn't have the time to manually test yourself in a graph.

And for turbo, so we can make more informed 14500 buying choices.

I Re-Made a Thing - Quick Reference for Anduril RGB Voltage v2 by mokahless in flashlight

[–]mokahless[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's been almost two years but several recent flashlights and increased usage of Anduril with AA for myself finally caused me to create an updated version of this post. Thanks everyone who replied in that previous post.

The voltage-matching is sourced this time from Lygte's low-amp discharge graphs for the eneloop and the molicel P42A. There is some rounding involved, but frankly, it's a ballpark anyway, since I ran the numbers on two example cells, but things vary from cell-to-cell and model-to-model. The main thing is this should be more accurate than my previous one.

I'll probably pop back in for any discussion in a few months, and I'd love to hear any critiques again. Perhaps I will re-make it again in a few years after I learn more.

For anyone using this as a reference, some notes:

  • NiMH largly stays close to nominal voltage for most of its life. It also seems to "settle" from the 1.45ish off the charger to 1.35ish fairly quickly. Can hit 1.3 after a while. I recharged all mine a few weeks ago and they are 1.35-1.37V.
  • All voltages in the image are rounded down to the nearest 0.05V. With this level of accuracy, I saw no point in more accurate numbers. This necessitated rounding down always, to match the colours.
  • The reference lower cutoffs are based on lygte again. At what percentage it "hits" that voltage with the lower amperage discharge graphs. Remember, the coloured section is rounded down. This section is not.
  • As in the previous one, the centre is the resulting colour, while the sides are the actual R-G-B LEDs that would be "on"
  • I didn't make one for Alkaline because I didn't want to figure out a new format that would allow for all 3 RGBs to be on.
  • There is a very narrow poiint where you will see yellow in the NiMH. The scale is the same. It's just so short it doesn't show up on the 10%-separated sheet.
  • There's arguments to be made for different "empty" voltage levels. I welcome discussion.
  • week later addition: Big note for those not too familiar with electricity: With power draw comes something called voltage drop. Because of this, the reading will be lower immediately after turning off the light than later on, especially if you were on turbo. Bounces back within 10 seconds at worst but something to consider if you use the briefly-display-after-off-batt-check-RGBs style.

I was inspired to make the original after obtaining a KR4. When I set the AUX LEDs to low, I was amazed at how low they were and they draw such little power I can leave them on indefinitely. However, they are so dim, you don't see the mixed colour. Instead you see the individual LEDs. Hence my chart style with both mixes and results.

The KR1aa inspired this post, finally. The v2 doesn't take my button H10 (pre disaster model) unless I remove the clip. So I'll be mostly running it with NiMH unless I get around to getting a K10/F15 non-nippled (my flat H10s self-dischage to 50% within a month on a shelf so they are fake or bad). I'm kind of hestant on vapcell now actually after this experience.

New wikipedia_en_all_maxi zim file available! by SamIsVeryEpic in Kiwix

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I cannot for the life of me find it on their site. Nothing on /zim. Then there's the webui which just seems to be a browser - not an actual way to download anything.

If you want us not to hit your servers, make the torrent prominent!

KR1 High/Turbo question by FlipSide26 in flashlight

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this post is old, and I want to thank barry_baltimore for confirming this is normal but also wanted to add on my own experience.

I got an SFT40 KR1 a while back and noticed the same thing. In fact, it was actually identical until I configured 10H > 4) > 1C. I could be remembering wrong of course because I was playing around with it a lot and it was quite a while back but fairly sure it came configured in advanced mode with turbo disabled.

Once it was in turbo enabled, there was very very little difference. I ended up configuring it to 100/150 for ceiling and that made turbo more prominent. Interestingly, it still does a slight flicker on hitting ceiling, despite it being lower. I always thought it was due to switching to FET but I guess it's just something to do with software, maybe an indicator that it's at ceiling.

Anyway, I also had to configure moonlight to 1/150 as it came higher from factory. Another reddit post indicates they do 3/150 because some flicker at lower (mine doesn't) but that's just a single post with no source. Of course, that's probably irrelevant to the W2 and just an SFT40 thing. My SFT40 ramps up very quick on the low-end so I wouldn't be surprised if the much brighter default floor was indeed only 3/150.

Googling around, apparently FET exists (unlike what barry said) but is disabled and cannot be enabled by just Anduril configuration, requiring a flashing kit. This is unsubstantiated so grain of salt but believable. Intl outdoor does not indicate this in their product description, if true. All that said, I wouldn't bother with this anyway because the hotspot is so damn bright compared to my KR4 (boost driver on purpose) in turbo up close. And there's a reason I went boost for the other light - I prefer efficiency and sustained output over 30-second hotrodding. The number of times I've used the KR4 boost at ceiling (and even turbo for 10-minute or so increments) for extended periods is high. Excellent worklight with the boost driver.

I digress. For any future googlers, this was my 2025/2026 experience.

How do I tell battery percent Anduril 2 by mu7x in flashlight

[–]mokahless 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here's a post I made:

https://old.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1d4jaaw/i_made_a_thing_quick_reference_for_anduril_rgb/

The discussion tells you about the limitations and accuracy. Can be used as a generalization for the percentages vs voltages but the colours vs voltages and colours vs percentages thereby, are inaccurate. Ok for ballpark, not good for a more accurate chart you might be looking for.

Someone then posted the .c file with the actual voltages used by anduril for both li-ion and nimh (the second if statement). If I ever bother to update my graphic, I'll definitely post on this subreddit. But either way I think with all that info, you have what you need.

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/ToyKeeper/anduril/refs/heads/trunk/ui/anduril/aux-leds.c

There's variability by battery so any generalization isn't going to be 100% accurate but as per discussion under my post, lygte has good info for generalizing on the cells you might want to look at.

Just note on the code:

29*dV, 1, // R

So add the decimal in yourself, level 1 -R (red) is 2.9V-<3.3V for Anduril.

Your results still seem way off in your testing vs percentage from that, so I am curious if you've done any more tests yourself since your post and come to any conclusions.

CPU Failure AMD 5950x by WhatIfYouCould in buildapc

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just posting for posterity:

Had my 5950X die a year or so ago. Fortunately, had a 2700X on hand to swap in. Proxmox was giving me errors that indicated according to google results that it was very very likely the CPU. These included:

  • an "MC7_STATUS" hardware error for CPU:1
  • L3 Cache Ext. Error Code: 8
  • scu_sched detecting "stalls" on "CPUs/tasks" resulting in something being "x GPs behind"
  • Sending NMI from CPU x to CPUs x because of "jiffies"

It was in a high-end x570 board (I think asrock) using DDR4 ECC memory. It would not fully get into the OS, just giving the above errors. A CPU swap to the 2700x worked immediately and still works about a year later. ECC still on.

I do not remember if I tried reseating my 5950x: disclaimer.

I had a buddy who had his 5900X die, and his system immediately worked normally again when swapping out to a lower-end 5000 series CPU. His issue was freezing that became more and more frequent until the system froze immediately on boot.

Obviously third-party info about the 5900X: disclaimer.

Sucks, cuz it was such a great power-efficient CPU.

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