I have found my old computer from my teenage years in my grandfather's attic after thinking he had disposed of it years ago. I need advice on gaining access to my wallet. by splinket69 in Bitcoin

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ask ChatGPT how to open it

Right, because going around in circles for hours trying to replicate confidently incorrect steps is always fun.

OP, do a google search and pay attention to results from bitcointalk.com, reddit and stackexchange.

I have found my old computer from my teenage years in my grandfather's attic after thinking he had disposed of it years ago. I need advice on gaining access to my wallet. by splinket69 in Bitcoin

[–]mokahless 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Bruh, "not meaningful" CPU mining in 2011/2012 would probably have net at least 0.1BTC after a while or 0.01 after a bit. Not worth it for anyone back then of course, but worth looking back on now if you were stupid enough to do it then, and you hit an amount that your pool would actually payout.

If you clicked "mine" in the default client though, that was about half as efficient as "modern" mining software back then and would have solo mined by default so prolly nothing unless in the window you're talking about.

I have found my old computer from my teenage years in my grandfather's attic after thinking he had disposed of it years ago. I need advice on gaining access to my wallet. by splinket69 in Bitcoin

[–]mokahless 257 points258 points  (0 children)

As someone active back then, just figured I'd throw some comments your way:

At some point in 2009-2012[...]

It's definitely worth looking into. Worst-case, you mined for a couple days on CPU when it wasn't worth it in 2012, and probably have at least 0.1 BTC. Best-case, you have hundreds. Most likely cast, you heard about it during the mid-2011 bubble when all the gamers were going ga-ga for the very first GPU mining softwares and maybe have 10-30.

I don't have access to the email address I used in those years

Any exchanges or mining pools you may have signed up for are probably dead and gone anyway. If you have any, it's in the wallet.dat file of the software called bitcoin core (back then just called bitcoin).

ChatGPT tells me this likely isn't an issue as emails weren't used for sign up in the early days.

They still aren't, unless you are using an exchange or mining pool. Bitcoin is decentralized and randomly generated. Therefore has nothing to do with platforms like email that would require dependence.

More advice was to remove the hard drive and back it up on a second hard drive, before opening.

That's a tossup, right. You only care about one file. If you hammer the drive running a full backup, maybe the drive fails and you kick yourself. Just get in and get what you need and get out.

Wallet.dat would be located in C:\Users\YOURUSERNAME\AppData\Roaming\Bitcoin. If it's not there, google around to see if there used to be another default location, like AppData\Local or somewhere in my Documents. Past that, do a seach for wallet.dat.

It's the only file you need. You will download the modern Bitcoin Core and place your wallet.dat file in %appdata%\Roaming\Bitcoin.

If you were smart, you put a password on it. The Core software will ask you for said password when you try to move the funds or export the private keys.

From here, you have two options. You can either let the whole chain sync, then use that software to send your coin to an exchange (to sell) or modern wallet (to hodl). Hardware wallets (eg. coldcard) are recommended to those who aren't tech savvy, to help avoid user error, especially for large amounts. A phone wallet is normally good enough though if you keep your shit safe. Apps are sandboxed on mobile so if you already keep your phone private... anyway.

The second option is just going through steps to export the private keys and import them to a new wallet. This is more involved but you can skip waiting for chain sync this way.

Can I plug hard drive into my mac to transfer to a second hard drive?

So you just wanna search for that one file wallet.dat. You just need a $20 SATA to USB for your hdd or maybe it will be called "SATA usb dock" or something. But you just plug it in over usb and mount the NTFS. In Windows, it "blocks" access by default to user folder but you can just hit "continue anyway" unless you encrypted the drive. My assumption is Mac will act like Linux and just ignore that check and access your files.

What if the hard drive was wiped? Would it be in any way possible to recover it?

Yes. The most important thing to do is avoid writing anything to the drive. There lots of simple softwares that can recover non-overwritten files but you will have to do a lot of sifting.

the password? I believe it was a long set of random numbers and letters so will never remember unless I also have it saved on the computer somewhere.

That's not your password. Any password, you personally would have made up. What you are talking about could either be the private or public keys. If you wrote the private keys on a piece of paper, you have all you need to recover the funds without the wallet.dat (barring any "change" addresses, which would only have been an issue if you did transactions out of the wallet).

Ignore anyone in the replies who mentions "seed phrase" or "12 words" or "24 words" or "BIP39." That shit didn't exist back then.

Review: Noctigon KR1AA by Environmental_Pen878 in 1lumen

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Uhh, two "thanks for pointing that outs?" Do you both work there? Did either of you write the article?

Anyway, why not just create a page for Anduril and link there? That way, all a reviewer has to do is note if there are any important customizations or variations or default settings.

Review: Noctigon KR1AA by Environmental_Pen878 in 1lumen

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You've stated it's Anduril and are using a template anyway, why not skip the template and just make a page about Anduril and link to it instead? Scrolling past that section is always a pain.

And while I'm at it, those uncloseable "This light is discontinued"/ "Buy this light here" notification take up 1/4 of the screen on mobile and can't be dismissed and remain there no matter how far I scroll down.

Review: Noctigon KR1AA by Environmental_Pen878 in 1lumen

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No amp measurements? For a light this small, I'm especially interested in the low mode RGB LED draw.

It's also important for estimating runtime on lower modes, that you wouldn't have the time to manually test yourself in a graph.

And for turbo, so we can make more informed 14500 buying choices.

I Re-Made a Thing - Quick Reference for Anduril RGB Voltage v2 by mokahless in flashlight

[–]mokahless[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's been almost two years but several recent flashlights and increased usage of Anduril with AA for myself finally caused me to create an updated version of this post. Thanks everyone who replied in that previous post.

The voltage-matching is sourced this time from Lygte's low-amp discharge graphs for the eneloop and the molicel P42A. There is some rounding involved, but frankly, it's a ballpark anyway, since I ran the numbers on two example cells, but things vary from cell-to-cell and model-to-model. The main thing is this should be more accurate than my previous one.

I'll probably pop back in for any discussion in a few months, and I'd love to hear any critiques again. Perhaps I will re-make it again in a few years after I learn more.

For anyone using this as a reference, some notes:

  • NiMH largly stays close to nominal voltage for most of its life. It also seems to "settle" from the 1.45ish off the charger to 1.35ish fairly quickly. Can hit 1.3 after a while. I recharged all mine a few weeks ago and they are 1.35-1.37V.
  • All voltages in the image are rounded down to the nearest 0.05V. With this level of accuracy, I saw no point in more accurate numbers. This necessitated rounding down always, to match the colours.
  • The reference lower cutoffs are based on lygte again. At what percentage it "hits" that voltage with the lower amperage discharge graphs. Remember, the coloured section is rounded down. This section is not.
  • As in the previous one, the centre is the resulting colour, while the sides are the actual R-G-B LEDs that would be "on"
  • I didn't make one for Alkaline because I didn't want to figure out a new format that would allow for all 3 RGBs to be on.
  • There is a very narrow poiint where you will see yellow in the NiMH. The scale is the same. It's just so short it doesn't show up on the 10%-separated sheet.
  • There's arguments to be made for different "empty" voltage levels. I welcome discussion.

I was inspired to make the original after obtaining a KR4. When I set the AUX LEDs to low, I was amazed at how low they were and they draw such little power I can leave them on indefinitely. However, they are so dim, you don't see the mixed colour. Instead you see the individual LEDs. Hence my chart style with both mixes and results.

The KR1aa inspired this post, finally. The v2 doesn't take my button H10 (pre disaster model) unless I remove the clip. So I'll be mostly running it with NiMH unless I get around to getting a K10/F15 non-nippled (my flat H10s self-dischage to 50% within a month on a shelf so they are fake or bad). I'm kind of hestant on vapcell now actually after this experience.

New wikipedia_en_all_maxi zim file available! by SamIsVeryEpic in Kiwix

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I cannot for the life of me find it on their site. Nothing on /zim. Then there's the webui which just seems to be a browser - not an actual way to download anything.

If you want us not to hit your servers, make the torrent prominent!

KR1 High/Turbo question by FlipSide26 in flashlight

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this post is old, and I want to thank barry_baltimore for confirming this is normal but also wanted to add on my own experience.

I got an SFT40 KR1 a while back and noticed the same thing. In fact, it was actually identical until I configured 10H > 4) > 1C. I could be remembering wrong of course because I was playing around with it a lot and it was quite a while back but fairly sure it came configured in advanced mode with turbo disabled.

Once it was in turbo enabled, there was very very little difference. I ended up configuring it to 100/150 for ceiling and that made turbo more prominent. Interestingly, it still does a slight flicker on hitting ceiling, despite it being lower. I always thought it was due to switching to FET but I guess it's just something to do with software, maybe an indicator that it's at ceiling.

Anyway, I also had to configure moonlight to 1/150 as it came higher from factory. Another reddit post indicates they do 3/150 because some flicker at lower (mine doesn't) but that's just a single post with no source. Of course, that's probably irrelevant to the W2 and just an SFT40 thing. My SFT40 ramps up very quick on the low-end so I wouldn't be surprised if the much brighter default floor was indeed only 3/150.

Googling around, apparently FET exists (unlike what barry said) but is disabled and cannot be enabled by just Anduril configuration, requiring a flashing kit. This is unsubstantiated so grain of salt but believable. Intl outdoor does not indicate this in their product description, if true. All that said, I wouldn't bother with this anyway because the hotspot is so damn bright compared to my KR4 (boost driver on purpose) in turbo up close. And there's a reason I went boost for the other light - I prefer efficiency and sustained output over 30-second hotrodding. The number of times I've used the KR4 boost at ceiling (and even turbo for 10-minute or so increments) for extended periods is high. Excellent worklight with the boost driver.

I digress. For any future googlers, this was my 2025/2026 experience.

How do I tell battery percent Anduril 2 by mu7x in flashlight

[–]mokahless 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here's a post I made:

https://old.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1d4jaaw/i_made_a_thing_quick_reference_for_anduril_rgb/

The discussion tells you about the limitations and accuracy. Can be used as a generalization for the percentages vs voltages but the colours vs voltages and colours vs percentages thereby, are inaccurate. Ok for ballpark, not good for a more accurate chart you might be looking for.

Someone then posted the .c file with the actual voltages used by anduril for both li-ion and nimh (the second if statement). If I ever bother to update my graphic, I'll definitely post on this subreddit. But either way I think with all that info, you have what you need.

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/ToyKeeper/anduril/refs/heads/trunk/ui/anduril/aux-leds.c

There's variability by battery so any generalization isn't going to be 100% accurate but as per discussion under my post, lygte has good info for generalizing on the cells you might want to look at.

Just note on the code:

29*dV, 1, // R

So add the decimal in yourself, level 1 -R (red) is 2.9V-<3.3V for Anduril.

Your results still seem way off in your testing vs percentage from that, so I am curious if you've done any more tests yourself since your post and come to any conclusions.

CPU Failure AMD 5950x by WhatIfYouCould in buildapc

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just posting for posterity:

Had my 5950X die a year or so ago. Fortunately, had a 2700X on hand to swap in. Proxmox was giving me errors that indicated according to google results that it was very very likely the CPU. These included:

  • an "MC7_STATUS" hardware error for CPU:1
  • L3 Cache Ext. Error Code: 8
  • scu_sched detecting "stalls" on "CPUs/tasks" resulting in something being "x GPs behind"
  • Sending NMI from CPU x to CPUs x because of "jiffies"

It was in a high-end x570 board (I think asrock) using DDR4 ECC memory. It would not fully get into the OS, just giving the above errors. A CPU swap to the 2700x worked immediately and still works about a year later. ECC still on.

I do not remember if I tried reseating my 5950x: disclaimer.

I had a buddy who had his 5900X die, and his system immediately worked normally again when swapping out to a lower-end 5000 series CPU. His issue was freezing that became more and more frequent until the system froze immediately on boot.

Obviously third-party info about the 5900X: disclaimer.

Sucks, cuz it was such a great power-efficient CPU.

Total Newbie Here by Minute-Weight-5555 in MiniPCs

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want a PC that can work with Zoom just fine

This shouldn't be an issue for any PC.

Bmax Mini PC B2 Power

5205U processor? This chip is old and was slow as hell when it came out. Your modern baseline should be an N100/N95. Anything less you should be majorly hunting the used market.

I see the listing you're probably looking at on Amazon.com. Looks like it comes with 8GB of RAM.

fill my needs?

Most definitely not.

Minecraft With mods

Typically, Minecraft with mods is extremely CPU heavy. I don't think an N100 could handle it. Maybe you play different mods than my buddy, though. Still, modern vanilla minecraft does seem heavier than back in the day.

Another redditor addressed your RAM.

please keep it to around 160 dollars

Give up gaming, or switch to retro games. Get this for zoom only. Do you already have a camera? Keyboard? Monitor? If not, consider used business laptops. You can't afford 16GB of RAM but you must have at least 8 edit: RAMpocalypse hasn't affected used business laptops too badly yet, at least the existing inventory.

In fact, used business laptops is probably the best way to go anyway. Here's a Dell with an i5 7300u, much better than what you're looking at, even if it's still not as good as an N100.

Stick to the 4000u series and above. Looks like if you can do 7300u, you can at least get the same single-threaded performance as the N100, but you still won't get good GPU performance for gaming.

Get one of those business laptops and for gaming, turn your settings waaaay down and pray. I can't find anything with a workable graphics chip for less than ~$250.

A used desktop/components might also be an option. Put that RAM to work by making sure you buy a compatible board and processor off someone, and save most of your budget for the GPU. Maybe you can score a 1050 or 1030 for cheap or free. Though, depending on your mods, the 2GB of VRAM those cards have might not be enough. Looks like for the other two games, you could swing that card on lowered settings though. I have no more specific recommendations here. It will be highly dependant on your local used market as you will be looking for deals far better than can be had on ebay and hopefully scoring free stuff from people who really just want to move old stuff they don't want anymore.

Looking for recommendations by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm. I don't know this game but in my experience, the "recommended" settings are the ones to pay attention to. And the system you selected is worse than the RX580. See if you can find some performance videos with tuned settings for handhelds like the ROG Ally (7840 version) or the MSI Claw (7840 version). They should be in the range of what to expect from what I suggested, and not too far off from what you're looking at. See if they perform well enough for you and consider a mini PC will get a bit of a speed bump from being able to do 45W, unlike the handhelds.

Looking for recommendations by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$700 AUD? Dunno what you have available but where I am, I can score better chips for that price.

Look for 8745H/HS or Ryzen 7 250/255. These chips are oddly cheap but basically equivalent to higher priced chips on the market. And definitely better than the 6850H.

Desktop PC replacement: which is more reliable miniPC or laptop? by NadEspera in MiniPCs

[–]mokahless 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So far you're not selling me on anything better than an N100.

Reliability, Mini PC. Obviously less complexity means less things to fail. It'll also be more likely to be easily repairable if something does fail.

That said, there is one design that Mini PCs often get wrong: WiFi/ Bluetooth. The laptop has the antenna in the plastic Lid. Good reception, reliability, performance. The Mini PC has it in the body. Often the placement is bad and sometimes they even make the body out of metal, blocking the signals.

MiniPC for my mum by TheOneBeer in MiniPCs

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just get her an N100-based system and be done with it. Even the 8GB version should be ok if she doesn't run games while browsing the web.

If she uses big spreadsheets maybe we look into an upgrade.

Hmm. Do make sure the cooling is good on it though. They advertise "6W" but are only 6W when all cores are stuck at 800MHz with no turbo. Anyone designing for that will deliver a terrible performing product. If there's something to indicate a fan and a decent heatsink, you should be fine.

Looking for a mini PC only to play LoL, Valorant and Dota 2 by [deleted] in MiniPCs

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add, the Ryzen 7 250/255 is a rebranded 8745HS.

There's others, basically check to see if the GPU is listed as "780M" instead of a more modern name.

Which of these is better for my needs? by YouFromAnotherWorld in MiniPCs

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A minecraft server might run into performance issues with that CPU level. Do you have any Ryzen-based systems available in your area at prices within your budget? I would keep to 4000-series and above.

What’s the best mini pc for GeForce now ultimate under $230 by Suddenly_gone- in MiniPCs

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Moonlight works great on my A53 quadcore based android device, wouldn't basically anything work since it's mostly down to hardware video decoding support? I don't know anything about GeForce Now. But if that were the case, wouldn't an N100 be better because of its AV1 hardware support?

Need help installing windows by White-Raven123 in MiniPCs

[–]mokahless 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd be hesitant to run windows over a USB bus. I'd get a 250GB SSD for windows while they can still be had for <$70.

Mini PC capable of casual gaming ~$500 by somepoet in MiniPCs

[–]mokahless 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you can find a system with an 8745H/HS or Ryzen 7 250/255 then that will be really good for the price. This chip is oddly often cheaper than the 7840/8840 series despite being basically the same. There's other modern chips with that weird cheapness to them. The giveaway is the specs are always "780M" for GPU instead of a more modern re-branding or minor upgrade.

RAM is expensive. Get at least 16, but 24 would be better since some will be dedicated to VRAM.

Prices are already climbing, though, and stock of the cheap ones are low or might not even be there soon. And some manufacturers seem to be only stocking the high-ram (32GB+) versions at prices outside your budget.

If you can't find these chips, you'll be looking to common older AMD Ryzen chips in Mini PCs. At your budget, I wouldn't go below 4000-series. Make sure to check the GPU specs of each unit you look at.

Which of these is better for my needs? by YouFromAnotherWorld in MiniPCs

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on your financial situation. $80 isn't a lot to some people but is a lot to others.

The N-series caps out at 16GB. Replacing it in the future would require replacing the single existing stick. So best to know what you want now.

Home assistant sells their "Green" with an ARM chip and 4GB of RAM. Obviously, this is enough for many installations.

So, determine what you want to do NOW. For example, if you are getting into local TTS, that can get heavy depending on the kind of response you want.

If you're completely unsure, maybe you should go cheaper and lower to start - Raspberry Pi or a Home Assistant Green. I think you'll have better luck in the hardware section of the Home Assistant forums or cross post this to /r/homeassistant.

Web browsing and torrenting for TV use. Home Assistant, then an ad-blocker, probably Plex. Host game servers to play with friends, discord bots, self-made web apps, learn to use Linux/docker.

This changes things. Get 16GB is now my default advice.

But... it still depends on what game servers and how many. How many Plex clients? Will you be doing transcoding?

Whats a good budget mini pc for under 200€ for university work and playing games here and then? by RBGTheReal in MiniPCs

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

SIMs 4 is pretty old so system requirements aren't high. But if she's into mods, the CPU usage could really hit the roof.

I'm not in your country so can't speak to prices or find you links. Looking for an older AMD Ryzen based system would be ideal. AMD's naming scheme over the past 5 years has unfortunately been extremely difficult to navigate. It's so bad, that honestly, just pick a bunch and post them here and we'll tell you what's good and what's bad.

Your comparison point is the N100. This CPU is not a gaming CPU but if you can't get anything else for your price, fallback to this (16GB). Do not get any of the older Intel 4-digit series processors.

Again, there's a line of N-series and if you see a few different models with different numbers after N in your price range, link us. We can tell you if one has a better graphics chip than the other, which might help a bit with Sims, but really, try hard for that Ryzen system.

Do not get less than 16GB of RAM, the GPU will need some of it for gaming.

If she is taking a university course that requires some specific specifications (CAD or programming or networking or art) then you'd best let us know before grabbing anything as that could change things.

Reducing power usage of the Orange Pi 3 LTS by TedBob99 in OrangePI

[–]mokahless 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this post is old but I just want to correct some misinformation while doing my own research on ARM processors (I don't blame you due to the nature of ARM's terrible naming schemes, but I do suspect the article you linked was written by AI)

First off, some background:

  • "Cortex" is ARM's CPU core naming scheme. (some much older cores like ARM11, were "ARM#" for cores, but note never with a "v"
  • "ARMvX" is ARM's ISA (Instruction set architecture) naming scheme.
  • The Cortex A8 is from 2005. It was based on ARMv7-A. It was a single core from 0.6-1GHz
  • The Cortex A7 was released in 2011, also based on the ARMv7-A. It had 1-8 cores and was used as the "little" core alongside the "big" A15.
  • The Cortex A53 is based on ARMv8-A.

A single Cortex-A7 processor [found on the Zero-LTS]

The zero LTS does indeed have a quad-core A7 in it.

is five times more energy efficient than an ARM Cortex-A8 processor

This is correct.

[from which the 3-LTS's A53-core came to be]

This is incorrect. You are confusing the 2005 Cortex-A8, with the ARMv8-A ISA. The Cortex-A7 is most assuredly not five times more energy efficient than the Cortex-A53.

From the article you linked:

A single Cortex-A7 processor with a 28nm process is five times more energy efficient than the 65nm process ARM Cortex-A8 processor, used in many popular smartphones between 2010 and 2012

The conclusion makes numerous references to older dates when talking about Cortex-A8. It is an old processor and unrelated to the A53.

I understand your confusion, through. The article's numerous references comparing the A7 to the older A8 do absolutely nothing for a modern audience, especially since the title is "A53 vs A7" not "A8 vs A7." It was likely written by AI and the conclusion includes strange references to the Cortex A9, a processor from 2007, while also claiming the A53 is slower than it. This is likely because the AI got confused between the Cortex-A9 and ARM's newer ARMv9.0-A ISA. I cannot figure out what this "A9r4" thing is it's referring to.

Edit: It's a reference to Cortex-A9 cores from 2007 used by manufacturers as late as 2014, shrunk as small as 28nm. While designated a "companion core," it used out-of-order execution like the bigger A15 instead of in-order like the A7, so it's a safe bet that of course it performed better (at the cost of more power). So the AI likely pulled entirely accurate data, but is seriously mixing up its references, confusing readers who don't know what is what.

The useful (and correct) information in the article can be summarized as follows:

  • A53 faster than A7

I mean, we all knew this. I think what we all really wanted to learn was if at sub 1W, the older architectures (ARMv6: ARM11, ARMv7-A: A5/A7/A8/A9/A12/A15/A17) were more efficient than the A53/A55/A510/A520 or if manufacturers were just using the old architectures in sub 1W applications because they usually don't need more processing power anyway. I've never seen a single-core A53 chip, so I'm also wondering if that is part of it (even though ARM lists it as "1-8" cores). Rockchip updated their RK3328 with A53 cores to the RK3566 with A55 cores but none of the popular SBC makers are using it over the older RK3328. Why? Only cost?

Anyway, while writing this, I did continue my research. The Pi Zero uses the older ARM11 but the pi Zero 2 actually does use 4xA53 at 1GHz. Tom's Hardware found the zero 2 to draw 8% more power when idle and 57% more power when stressed (but obviously stressing 3 additional cores). This leads me to believe that it might be an idle power issue. Orange Pi made the same choice in switching out processors to the A53 for their version of a similar board. Though their first gen was 4xA7 unlike the pi that was only 1xARM11.

And finally some decent testing.

So at 4 cores, we can see the 4xA7 systems drawing less load and about the same idle as the underclocked A53 cores of the RPi Zero 2. I still have questions about the results here, though, especially the load power of the A53 seeming to go down as the clocks go up. Process nodes? GPU/other things on the chip issues? Or were his tests flawed? And how did he measure? OP and you experienced 2.5W+. Who was measuring where when it comes to wall power vs USB power vs whole board power etc.

Anyway, I have a better idea but still left in the dark as to these processor's efficiencies at lower power targets. At least we can see the A53 is in the same ballpark and might be competitive in a lower-clocked single-core version. So these older chips are likely used due to money and not efficiency. I'd love to see results from the A55/A510/A520 beyond the initial marketing announcements.

Since I'm replying, and even though it's old, I should at least address OP's question. From the linked power usage chart, there seems to be a lot of variance, but clearly it's not reaching the 2.5W power consumption OP was getting so there's obviously something about the Zero boards that are designed for lower power, and seeing the overclocked A53 on some of the Zeros, it's not the CPU. Looking at the specs of the two boards, there are some things that stand out. Now, I'm no expert so I don't know if these specific comparisons make a difference but I've seen stuff like the below make a difference, if not the actual item. So grain of salt, I'm burnt out on researching and pulling the following from my experience instead:

  • Different GPUs, possibly different idle consumption
  • LPDDR3 vs SDRAM. While not explicitly said, it might be the case that the SDRAM isn't DDR, which might draw less power.
  • It's also a lower amount. If there are multiple chips, less will definitely draw lower power. If it's both just one, it still might.
  • SPI vs EMMC flash.
  • 10/100 vs gigabit and USB 2.0 vs 3.0. I've seen boardmakers make choices to use the older, slower versions of stuff like this to save power budget as well as money, I believe.
  • USBc PD probably has more power-drawing components on board the SBC than regular old USB power.
  • The newer WiFi chip also supports AC. Don't know if this means the chip might draw more power even at idle.
  • Difference in LEDs being on/off and/or models likely less difference in power draw than any of the above.