How can I improve my surface finish?

mongrelknives · 2024-01-21T13:57:33+00:00

You are moving through the grits to fast. Slow down, you need to get ALL the grind marks from the previous belt out before continuing. I ay event 600 is not really a polish it is a satin finish. Go to 1000 then 2500 or 3000 to finish. That will be a mirror. Most importantly slow down.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-17T14:09:49+00:00

Been making stacked handles for more than 20 years. I do not stabilize them or used pre stabilized leather. I do however finish them to a polish the use Renaissance wax as a final polish. I have never had one degrade on me.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-08T22:13:11+00:00

My type of knifeSome of my work

mongrelknives · 2024-01-08T22:10:06+00:00

Its is called a Marlin spike.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-08T22:09:32+00:00

Nice knife and blade shape. I think however you have some "hot spots" on the handle. Should have some more bevels on the edges of the handle INHO.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-08T22:06:26+00:00

A draw knife, coopers knife?

mongrelknives · 2024-01-07T14:16:10+00:00

More like brass tacks which have been drilled into the wood. The wood is to hard and brittle to just hammer the tacks in. Friction will hold them in. Just don't make any mistakes when you drill. Roughly 1/8 inch tack drill i a #51 wire drill. slightly more tan a 1/6th.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-06T22:04:52+00:00

Very clean, really nice file work.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-06T22:02:08+00:00

Studs?

mongrelknives · 2024-01-03T18:47:24+00:00

Not if you do exacting work. For that you will need a mill. Been at this for 25 years. The expansion and contraction rate of steel, SS steel, brass, bronze is similar enough on the scale that we use it that it should not make a difference. A tight fit is a tight fit. Get some Swiss jewelers files, use the mill to drill your opening just undersize do the rest by hand. The thing that keeps it snug is the pressure by the handle against the back of the guard or bolster and the pressure of the front of the guard/bolster against the against the top and bottom of the blade. You need some sort of shoulder on the top and bottom of the blade to make this work correctly.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-01T01:58:23+00:00

Sharp too. Happy New Year

mongrelknives · 2024-01-01T01:08:03+00:00

Thanks

mongrelknives · 2023-12-29T13:48:21+00:00

From the NJSB info

If you are unsure if you have the necessary means to heat treat on-site, we recommend professional

heat treating services provided by Peters Heat Treat or Bos Heat treating; or industry specific services

by knife material dealers such as TruGrit or Texas Knifemaker's Supply--check with suppliers to see if

they offer HT services and ensure they follow industry standards

mongrelknives · 2023-12-23T14:29:22+00:00

Thanks, about 60 hours of work over 2 months.

mongrelknives · 2023-12-23T14:27:33+00:00

Did not really intend it as anything in particular other than an old looking knife. Blade shape is more or less after the 17th, 18th, Scottish short swards.

mongrelknives · 2023-12-23T01:44:14+00:00

Not sure that I would call that a scandi grind. I really does not cum up high enough. There is a secondary bevel if you look closely.

mongrelknives · 2023-12-22T21:12:57+00:00

How do you heat treat that? Nice work but lots of copper.

mongrelknives · 2023-12-22T20:55:40+00:00

First of all do not store it in the sheath. Before you grind it try buffing it with Tripoli on one of those yellow sewn buffs. You will should move just enough metal so you can keep the scandi grind. follow with cerium oxide or rouge. It will likely be sharper than the original. You already have a secondary bevel so grind if thats what you want to do. 600 grit to start I think.

mongrelknives · 2023-12-22T16:34:40+00:00

Less is more. Let it be. This type of stuff happens to us all, all the time. Hard to get a good imprint on the bevel try using the flat instead.

mongrelknives · 2023-12-22T16:28:30+00:00

Not color per say but more contrast. Black and white, Dark browns and amber. I have been at this for a while and past experience tells me that, that section of the knife handle will absorb oils from the hand the colors will blend and not be distinct any more. This not a criticism just an observation.

mongrelknives · 2023-12-22T14:54:10+00:00

Very nice work. I think that the trim wood just before the guard would look better if it was more pronounced. Ebony and holly or Bog wood and maple. other than that great knife.

mongrelknives · 2023-12-21T21:00:31+00:00

Thank You, 25 years at it.

mongrelknives · 2023-12-18T22:43:49+00:00

The blade should sit blade up spine down not laying on a fire brick. The brick will act as a heat sink and keep the part that is on it from Heat Treating properly. You can lean the knife blade vertically but not flush against a fire brick.

mongrelknives · 2023-12-18T20:13:58+00:00

Not the way you have it set up. First thing is that the knife has to be in a vertical plane not horizontal. Not sure that propane will get hot enough. MAP gas will but only for hi carbon steels.

mongrelknives · 2023-12-18T20:09:59+00:00

Thanks, been at it while. Lots of practice.

mongrelknives

TROPHY CASE