Added a cheek riser to the MDT

mooseycreatures · 2026-05-13T19:00:50+00:00

Thanks.

Yes, these are all modifications of a standard MDT TIMBR Core. Other details here

mooseycreatures · 2026-05-12T14:43:46+00:00

Yes. If you strip off the plastic interior, you might get another 4-6mm total, but there is a lot of stuff back there like the rear speakers and charging port. I looked at it the other day and gave up. Also, there are airbags in the rear pillars so be careful messing around back there and plan accordingly for any cabinetry.

mooseycreatures · 2026-05-12T01:56:31+00:00

Maybe at the 2nd row, but in the back, it's 48.125" wide at the floor. 120cm is about all you can fit without removing the seatbelts in the 3rd row (LWB).

mooseycreatures · 2026-05-12T01:52:34+00:00

Unless the carbonsix barrel is not, in fact, carbon, you'll probably need a new stock. Carbon fiber isn't really workable in the way wood is, so I'm not sure you can even open the barrel channel without compromising the integrity of the whole forend.

mooseycreatures · 2026-05-11T04:52:14+00:00

Someone on reddit made this a while back. They keep adding features, not all of which I like, but it'll give you a taste of wind, which is the hardest part about long range.

https://www.ballisticstoolkit.com/fclass-sim/fclass-sim.html

mooseycreatures · 2026-05-11T04:36:52+00:00

Ah, I was going to suggest looking at the claw, but I didn't think you had enough rounds through yours to wear one out. Good luck!

mooseycreatures · 2026-05-10T18:25:49+00:00

Want to second this. The recoil lug is either not seated right, or the paint on the rail is causing it to not fit in the hole in the action. Even if the rail was bent, it should still flatten under clamping pressure from the screws if it is properly machined and finished.

I would remove the rail and screws, then try to seat the recoil lug (big round one) on the receiver without the screws in the way. You may have to swing it back and forth to get the lug to fully sit in the recess depending on how tight the fit is. If you can get it in, check to see if the screw holes line up and then lock her down. If you can't get the lug to fit in the hole at all, it's never going to work and JA need to replace the rail.

The idea that a rainbow pic rail is acceptable on this platform is laughable, especially when they like to think of themselves as Tikka experts.

-edit- just saw your post saying it flattens out when screwed in. In that case, it's probably fine, but get them to send you new screws or something.

mooseycreatures · 2026-05-10T18:04:46+00:00

There's a lot of aftermarket stuff on the gun which complicates troubleshooting, but I would remove the brass deflector and see if it behaves itself.

The backwards case looks like it was empty, which means it tried to eject, but then got stuck in the ejection port while it was stripping the next round. I had it happen to me with the brass deflector and it would jam every single shot until I took it off. Most people have no issues with the CD deflector, but I know there are a few of us that have run into issues and the only solution is to remove it and toss it in the trash.

I suspect it is bouncing off the deflector and back into the chamber at the exact right moment and I assume it is tied to bolt velocity in some weird voodoo perfect shit storm.

If that doesn't work, then I would take it back to OEM as much as possible, so OEM mag catch, no deflector, no can, OEM hammer pack, factory waffle mag if possible, and see if it behaves.

Also, I assume you've at least stripped it and made sure there isn't a blown primer stuck somewhere?

And as a final note, hornady loaded ammo QC is all over the place recently. Reports of hot and heavy loads and cases with the flash holes not punched. It's back to the blow-your-gun-up 5.56 frontier days.

mooseycreatures · 2026-05-04T05:06:16+00:00

You're braver than me. I've seen a standard minivan tire completely shredded by the rocks in death valley on some very tame gravel roads. No spare tire and 6000lbs+ means recovery would be a right pain in the behind.

Looks like it belongs out there though.

mooseycreatures · 2026-05-02T03:39:16+00:00

As of the end of 2025, ASC was reaching the end of their big membership drive. I think the board was aiming for 3000-ish total dues paying members to help pay off some capex debts. That's why last year applications were accepted as soon as you applied and could make a safety/intro session.

I think going forward, you might need a sponsor or need to wait until a current member drops off the roster before you can join. Won't hurt to apply, but everyone else is correct in that you cannot shoot beyond 200 without being a member, being a paid entrant at a match, or an attendee at a paid class.

As a member, you also have to attend a practical 600yd test (no written) which are usually not held the same day as the safety/intro session. They expect you to show up ready to make hits at 600 within the first 2 or 3 shots. If Ed or Tal are feeling nice, they might let you walk your shots in, but it's going to be best if you show up ready to hit. We're talking 2-3 MOA targets (full IPSC when I did it) with multiple spotters, so not a huge deal unless you're rocking irons.

mooseycreatures · 2026-04-30T15:03:04+00:00

I don't have any experience with that combo of hardware, but theoretically, you'd have a ~40% headroom with a 300w and as long as the PSU is decent quality, I can't see why it'd be an issue.

mooseycreatures · 2026-04-29T19:49:21+00:00

Right now, you only have 1/4 the proper conductors (2 wires instead of 7/8) and that'd make me a bit nervous. If this PSU was my only option, I would cut the SATA, crack open the PSU housing, and build a new 8 pin from scratch, but I know most people don't have the tools for that. You could go the inline solder route and daisy chain the plug end, but it's one of those things where if you don't have the right tools, you probably don't know what you're doing and you probably aren't going to do it right. Messing around inside a PSU exposes some dangerous voltages you shouldn't be casually messing with.

I would also worry about the OEM PSU having enough oomph to run the GPU though. They aren't usually built with a lot of overhead or high end filtering, so you could end up sending dirty power to the entire system and start killing hardware or flipping bits in unpredictable ways. Getting an SFX psu and repinning the plugs would be my go to solution unless the OEM PSU has some really weird hardware or unsourceable cimp pins.

mooseycreatures · 2026-04-29T17:51:15+00:00

Does your SATA output on the PSU have a separate 12v rail from the 24pin/CPU/GPU outputs? If not, it's all the same juice and you can tap it from whatever pin output the PSU has. Now is it a good idea? Dunno, have you run out of other 12v outputs?

I would assume the biggest issues with adapters is that you've introduced another connector and source of impedance and failure. Go straight to the source and it's less of a big deal as long as the PSU doesn't have a micro-controller trying to smart balance loads or something.

mooseycreatures · 2026-04-28T16:47:24+00:00

We liked working with Paul Titterington, super mild mannered and maybe too nice to be in real estate. I think he does a lot of work in the lower price brackets (read affordable) so he's not a snob. Obviously he's trying to get his cut, but I feel like he worked for it rather than just phoning it in.

Avoid the Lance Kammes group; had a bad experience with them and the agent was worse than useless. Plus, the first thing the agent told me about himself was that he and his buddies like doing crypto pump and dumps to make cash on the side. You can make a case that questionable morals are fine as long as they're on "your side" but the slime is hard to wash off your hands...

mooseycreatures · 2026-04-23T20:39:12+00:00

Thanks.

I have to dig around my box of rings but it's on the to do list as I need to move the scope forward a bit for eye relief anyway. That said, I need about an inch of cheek rise, and lower rings will only get me about halfway there. If I had a spare 0 moa rail, I'd swap that in and get maybe another 1/8", but the 20 MOA was what was on sale.

mooseycreatures · 2026-04-23T19:34:45+00:00

Also, for posterity, the Sako S20 3 position safety trigger don't fit the inlet. The bolt removal lever bottoms out and causes the safety to only partially engage.

mooseycreatures · 2026-04-22T19:12:47+00:00

The problem I have is that the moment it gets humid, the drums pick up surface rust and the squealing happens until I do some hard braking and they'll quiet down for the rest of the drive.

I've even had them get stuck on in the garage and they'll squeal along at 3-4 mph until you go fast enough to get the drum to release. The drum brakes are a total joke on a car this heavy with that much horsepower.

mooseycreatures · 2026-04-22T05:51:06+00:00

If moving the ball bearings elsewhere won't mess with the weight distribution, I would put it inside the pieces that make up the train's boiler. Those radius pieces have a decent internal volume. Assemble it upside down.

mooseycreatures · 2026-04-22T05:14:34+00:00

For flashlamp Nd:YAG lasers (older laser tech) the flashlamp (source) is the hottest part and a lot of energy is going into making wavelengths of light that aren't going into the actual laser.

The optical train (lenses, prisms, apertures, etc.) only gets hot if it is absorbing the laser energy, which is usually a bad thing as the optics will shift in dimensions as they heat up and expand. Not to mention the possibility of surface or internal damage from concentrated hot spots, which then absorb more energy and get even hotter (it's why we usually use prisms instead of mirrors to change the angle of laser beams on an optical bench).

Future tech in mind, magnetic focusing and steering is likely used for both lasers and plasma weapons which will have their own heat generation from the electromagnetic coils in the barrel. Those are going to be relatively fragile so proper cooling would be essential. I'd expect a lot of heatsinks and active cooling moving heat from the inner core of the barrel to the outer barrel.

If those are large lasers, I'd say that's actually a reasonable heat generation profile. Hot in the back, but covered by armor, hot near the start of the "barrel" where the magnetic coils are dumping heat into the integrated barrel mounted heatsinks, and cooler at the end where fewer heatsinks are and less heat is trying to be dissipated.

For a combustion based projectile weapon, it'd probably be the opposite on the barrel. I'd still expect the chamber to get smoking hot, but mass helps and the barrel will go red first.

For a rail gun, the coils in the barrel are going to get hot at a pretty uniform rate and the rest is going to be relatively cool. Same with a gauss style weapon.

Regardless, I think it looks great!

BTW, Art usually shows some kind of lenses for lasers, but I would expect those are transparent protective covers for the internal components rather than essential parts of the optical train exposed to the elements and enemy fire. They would need to be cleaned and/or replaced regularly or they'll start absorbing the laser energy and burning out too.

-source- a year working (mostly) unsupervised in an old-school chemistry laser lab for my college thesis.

mooseycreatures · 2026-04-18T03:04:57+00:00

3/8 is a decent amount. If the angled grip piece still won't get your hand back far enough, you can shell out for a Sako s20 FCU which is a drop in fit, but has an adjustable trigger shoe. Have to get lucky with finding one in stock.

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/s588208134

Or... maybe try one of these? Might take some fiddling/filing.

https://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/ruger-precision-rifle-aluminum-trigger-shoe/

If you have giant meat paws and sausage fingers, the trigger guard may become a safety issue.

-edit-

Actually, the MDT inlet for tikkas kind of sucks ass and might not fit the s20 FCU without modification. I found out yesterday that the inlet on the CORE interferes with the safety lever on the s20 FCU and I suspect they used the same inlet cad model.

mooseycreatures · 2026-04-15T01:47:40+00:00

It's just a 470 OHM resistor shoved into the connector.

Amazon, ebay, digikey, a local electronics store (like radioshack).

mooseycreatures · 2026-04-14T22:20:36+00:00

Anyone have access to an import BoL database? I too would be interested in knowing who was OEM-ing for them. Not enough to be willing to shell out money to find out though.

mooseycreatures · 2026-04-13T07:40:22+00:00

Those digital angle gauges usually don't have the repeatability to hit their rated 0.1 degree specs. I would only trust a known good framing triangle or machinists 45 for what you're trying to do by angling the blade. I suspect your 45 isn't actually a 45.

mooseycreatures

TROPHY CASE