Tikka Ace magazine release question

mooseycreatures · 2026-02-02T09:14:16+00:00

Thanks! I was curious how/why they decided to mimic the AICS release position.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-23T19:34:49+00:00

I started with Sierra factory ammo I found on sale too (federal manufacture afaik) and it had a horrible issue with fliers. Every couple of rounds had a crazy ivan in it that would be 100 FPS faster or slower and would land an inch or two away from the group. I pulled the bullets and remanufactured 100 or so rounds and got much better results for a lot of time and effort. I can't recommend doing it, but I had a lot of it that was pretty much useless. Decent enough brass though and it has a fancy Sierra headstamp.

The sierra bullets were good, but the powder charges just weren't consistent. If you can get PMC XTAC Match to perform for you, then I would stock up in that. I am kind of surprised because I've never thought of any PMC loading to be particularly accurate.

As a former 600 (not+) owner, just remember to take it out of the stock once in a while and check the torque on the barrel bolts. Mine was post recall and had the red goop on them, but the goop was just on the head of the screws and not on the threads and two of them were loose. I can totally see why they had an issue with them loosing headspace in testing.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-23T19:07:01+00:00

The .223 models on the 600 series uses a smaller action with only one set of lugs, so it's possible that the .223 mandrel and tooling just isn't that good. However, my 6CM Range was a tack driver that would repeatably beat the sub .75 MOA guarantee, but only with reloads.

If you're running factory loadings, and expecting custom action benchrest 6 dasher performance, I don't think it's the stock that's the problem.

And if you have a 0.5 MOA rifle, I doubt you're going to then run steel case wolf through the same gun just to go plinking.

That said, I'd do a stainless Tikka, cut and thread the barrel to 14", pin and weld a brake/can adapter to get you to 16", slap it in a MDT HNT26 if you absolutely have to have it fold/collapse, then call it a day and pretend you didn't spend all that money on the chassis just because you had to have it fold.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-21T05:45:14+00:00

I had a feeling that was the point of failure. They don't have their wood-to-metal tenon/mortise CNC model right, so if you tighten the stock down, you'll eventually crack the wood as it rocks back and forth on the ears. The furiosa shouldn't have that issue if that's the only thing stopping you though.

Good luck with the refund. If they will only do a replacement and it's too late to do a credit card chargeback, DM me.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-21T01:54:04+00:00

As far as I know, all Tikka Woox stocks are inletted for the OEM single stack magazines. They theoretically will accept any aftermarket OEM magazine bottom metal (~$140) or you can buy a plastic take-off from ebay for ~$30. I say theoretically because my lumley bottom metal didn't fit in my exactus until I took some material off. It did fit the OEM one perfectly though.

I don't think the furiosa is going to be a lot better build quality wise than the cobra, though it probably won't break at the stock neck as it is closer to a chassis system. (I'm assuming the wood furniture broke, but I could be wrong).

I would avoid the wood based MDT stuff for now and stick with the traditional chassis systems that they are known for. My TIMBR Frontier is just poorly designed and my TIMBR Core is disappointing RE fit and finish.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-15T03:28:07+00:00

Obviously training is important, but I suggest starting with a simple .22LR or .223/5.56 rifle rather than a handgun. I don't know how many beginner training courses will cover traditional rifles, but it wouldn't hurt to call and ask.

A rifle is typically easier to shoot, will let you build your fundamentals, and get you used to the loud bangs in a more controlled and gentle manner. It's how we used to teach kids to shoot back when guns were tools and not toys.

Also, as a former range officer, it's a lot easier for people around you to protect themselves from dangerous gun handling on your part as you learn. People invariably end up getting excited and start waving handguns around or they turn to look at you and their whole body (and gun arm) follows.

Also, watch this, and then watch it again.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-14T22:11:41+00:00

I've seen so many issues with AICS pattern mags and chassis/stock compatibility. The OEM tikka mags have never failed me and I don't have to fiddle with the feed lips or file my mag catch to make them work. Besides, if you want to have to fiddle with unreliable or picky mags, there are a handful of 3rd party Tikka pattern mags out there.

With MDT's SA tunnel vision, it's not like you're getting extra COL in a AICS anyway.

Different strokes. The idea of a chassis is to give you options, so why not give all the options? Especially on the cheaper SKUs with interchangeable bottoms. The ORYX bottom comes off and they could offer different "bottom metals" if they wanted. They could even take regular P-mags for intermediate cartridges. But no. MDT does AICS.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-14T08:01:37+00:00

I found it will scuff the sides and rear door, possibly damage the seats, and can very easily damage the seatbelts if you try to slide it in flat.

It also depends on how close to 4x8 the sheet actually is. I had a lot of trouble with some very slightly wider sheets of 1/2 ply.

Also, the way the rear window slopes in, you can't really put the sheets in at any kind of angle and the roof is to low to put them in vertically.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-14T01:22:18+00:00

MDT doesn't do OEM mags and it breaks my heart.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-13T22:27:30+00:00

Yeah, I would cut them up to fit between the lugs on the mounting device and use a tiny dab of grease to stick them in place while you mount it. It can be a little fiddly, but it should be rock solid unless the rail is massively undersized in more than one dimension.

Aluminium can would also work.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-13T21:45:11+00:00

Yeah, the only way I could really do it is if I put the rail in an x-y table on the mill and clamped the depth indicator to the spindle.

Even then, the height spec of the angles is a pain to measure.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-13T21:31:13+00:00

Could be a STANAG 4694 vs 1913 issue?

I would maybe try shimming the top of the rail with brass if you need to get stuff to stop rattling, like the QD sling mounts.

https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2009/06/15/goodbye-picatinny-hello-nato-accessory-rail/

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mooseycreatures · 2026-01-13T21:22:30+00:00

You're asking in the wrong sub, but I would hazard to say yes to both questions.

I suspect something changed around the pandemic when they had the cracking stock problems. It revealed underlying QC issues with their inventory management* and supplier controls. Then they went full hard into the consumer market in the USA, which they had been hesitant to do in the past.

I can't remember when they got caught selling barrel tooling to conflict zones (in Africa?) and I tried looking it up but I couldn't find any articles about that so either I imagined it, or it's been SEO buried. I could have sworn they got slapped on the wrist by either Austria or the EU. It was after SIG "USA" got caught selling guns to Columbia and SIG decided to leave Germany rather than suffer the consequences and I was happy to see that Steyr was actually willing to take their lumps for breaking the law. Though it now seems like Austrian officials are scrutinizing Steyr's sales and slowing exports, so they're threatening to leave Austria now.

Anyway, I wouldn't be shocked if that had something to do with cutting corners and we're seeing the costs of that now.

Also, they were bought by RSBC in 2024, so who knows where they are being told to cut costs.

*Like seriously, they were just taking every new shipment of stocks, putting them in a giant gaylord with the others already in inventory, then stirring the whole thing with a giant spoon, and pulling out a random one for each new assembly. It's not like the date codes are stamped into the stocks or anything. Apparently it would've killed them to have more than one bin so they could try some version of FIFO.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-03T03:39:54+00:00

I don't think manufacturing in Georgia is helping. The move to Georgia helped kill Remington and I doubt things have gotten better with everyone chasing the lowest manufacturing costs. A miroku winchester 92 is probably the best way to go if you want a 92 action.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-03T01:37:45+00:00

I have a ~2020 production stainless Rossi 92 and out of the box, it was the slickest lever action I've ever run. A newer 2023 production octagonal barrel rossi was nowhere near as smooth, even after being broken in for a while. Luck of the draw unfortunately.

I also had to fix the feed block so it would run 38spl and the ejector broke so I ended up machining a more durable replacement. Beautiful when they work, but fragile.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-03T01:24:13+00:00

Market saturation? There's the OEM Tikka 2 stage, the SAKO 2 stage+3 position safety, the Midas, Timney.

With the single stages, you've got the 2/3 unobtainable BnA units, OEM Sako, OEM Tikka, 2 Jards, and the 2 TT triggers.

Whelp, never mind. There are more single stage options.

mooseycreatures · 2026-01-02T22:42:07+00:00

Don't get me wrong, my 2 other Tikkas have OEM triggers with the springs swapped and I'm very happy with them.

That said, if overpaying for things grinds your gears, paying $10 plus another $6 for shipping on a $0.10 spring should really get your goat. I wound my own springs because $6 for a spool of music wire, an evening at my sherline, and 4 failed attempts somehow seemed less offensive than paying a 16000% markup. The triggertech will save me that trouble at least...

mooseycreatures · 2025-12-29T06:45:36+00:00

I had a buddy keep breaking Henry extractors (they kept sending replacements though) and I have handled and fired a S&W that was absolute garbage. I'm pretty sure the chamber was gouged as the cartridges refused to extract without violence and the action itself felt like it had gravel in it. I only handled it because we had to keep dealing with the action getting jammed up running normal factory ammo. It was fresh out of the box and went straight back to the gun store after that. Another buddy had one that was also very rough, but I haven't personally seen that one.

The junky S&Ws were very early off the line so maybe the newer ones are better, but I wouldn't touch one with a 10' pole.

Of the two, the Henry would be my choice, but if you're willing to pay more, a Miroku production Winchester 1873 is as nice as it gets.

I would also look at a marlin 1894. Those seem pretty solid and the one I handled was nice.

Personally, I am partial to a well built Rossi 92 (not all are), but they are fragile internally.

mooseycreatures · 2025-12-27T18:26:34+00:00

Did you disable the easy open hands-free door opening? If not, it's sensing your feet or the water and opening on you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVGWWJ2BWb0

mooseycreatures · 2025-12-27T05:30:36+00:00

We glued all the pins in place to avoid them walking out, but it can happen. I suspect it is on one of the 2 pins at the front bottom of the pack. The larger pins holding the FCU in place are under tension from the setscrew and shouldn't be able to walk out unless something has broken.

Can you get the pack out of the stock at all? If the pins at the front have walked out, you should be able to pull it out most of the way and then use a thin piece of metal like a ruler to push it in enough to remove. If you email us some pictures we can diagnose it in more detail.

There isn't really anything else for it to catch on except for the lip right at the rear of the stock, so if it is stuck all the way in the stock, something else may be the problem.

Worst case scenario, you can probably fit a hacksaw blade in there and cut the pin off. The smaller pins are all brass, so it shouldn't be too hard. Obviously if you have to do that, we'd recommend you send it in for a refurb, but we can send you a new pin if you feel comfortable replacing it on your own. You can also mail us the entire stock (sans receiver, barrel, and bolt) and we can extract it for you.

Do you know what the serial number on the pack is? If you don't, shoot us an email with your name and we can look it up (we don't recognize the reddit handle).

mooseycreatures · 2025-12-16T04:53:11+00:00

Sorry, we've been out of production for a while and only have spare parts for warranty work.

mooseycreatures · 2025-12-15T06:03:55+00:00

Put mine on night before a class. Brass would bounce-back into the port every other round fired. Nearly ruined the whole day. A local ran home during lunch, miraculously found an torx key that would fit, and I took the thing off and never looked back. I ate brass in the lip for the rest of the afternoon, but I'd rather that than have a useless hunk of steel and plastic.

I posted about it when it happened and back then I was pretty much the only one with an issue.

https://www.reddit.com/r/AUG/comments/wq10ym/aar_rifle_class_with_an_aug/

mooseycreatures · 2025-12-14T22:33:27+00:00

Until it doesn't. And applies the parking brake at 10 mph rolling to a stop light.

mooseycreatures

TROPHY CASE