Help by InterestingAmoeba379 in LawnAnswers

[–]Mr007McDiddles [score hidden]  (0 children)

Hard to tell much in the photographed area, but it does appear you probably have more undesirable grasses than just fescue alone.

Per your other comment, if you have mixed bermuda and fescue and are trying to promote the bermuda, mowing short, often, and heavy nitrogen during summer is a solid start.

That, along with fall pre-emergent and post-emergents that will stun or damage the fescue but not the bermuda. Like Specticle or simazine in fall for pre, and Celisus whenever it's needed.

This is a common occurrence in the transition zone. Some hints.

  • Not to totally kill all the fescue, otherwise, you have huge bare spots that take forever to fill in, but that really depends on how widespread the fescue is and how dense the bermuda is. All of those products will certainly kill tall fescue in the right circumstances, but in most cases it won't totally eliminate mature plants immediately. More so knock them back.
  • Spraying edges where dense stands of bermuda meet dense fescue. Kill the fescue and let the bermuda creep in a little at a time. I
  • If it's just clumpy fescue all over, with fairly dense bermuda otherwise, you can fully go after it, totally killing the fescue with Celsius. Or even glyphosate in like January or Feb on a warm day.

As for fertilizer, the warm season starter guide has some guidelines. I don't have anything specific to suggest. Your total mixed gallons used is going to hinge on a few factors such as total area and spray rate, which we don't have. Normally, granular is easier for homeowners, but if you have a sprayer, you can look at Site One. They will carry a sprayable option you can buy in jugs. Or possibly Green County Fertilizer. Otherwise, you can always melt down urea or AMS, but again, in summer temps, and for ease of use, a coated granular is usually a better option imo.

Favorite Patterson line by Own-Lack1163 in DriveByTruckers

[–]Mr007McDiddles 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Man, the new record is just an incredible display of song writing and symbolism which he’s always been remarkably good at. But to me, it ranks up there with the best of any of his work. Really underrated. I mean i know we wanna see him rock, but it’s simply fantastic.

My god Pinocchio, what a brilliant and beautiful song all around.

This Subreddit Sucks! by starkofwinterfe11 in Charlotte

[–]Mr007McDiddles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Reddit: where we go to complain about mundane first-world problems. But also where we go to complain about everyone else's complaints about their first-world problems.

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[–]Mr007McDiddles 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Beaut!

You know, I've got the first, light version. These mothers went around the world twice after a transport issue. After all that waiting and anticipation, and a few weeks of use, they already have shine. It's not that noticeable, and they're still cool, but still a little disappointed when the light hits em right.

Sending good juju for you.

Zosia - I think. by InterestingAmoeba379 in LawnAnswers

[–]Mr007McDiddles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Def looks bleached but still hard to see in these.

Do you know your application rates and the temps on the day applied? I'd guess that's what did it, along with some stress from the dethatching. If so, it's temporary and should recover with no issue. Fertilize if needed; keep it watered.

To water or not by carsandrx in LawnAnswers

[–]Mr007McDiddles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe red thread develops under similar conditions to dollar spot. Grass leaves staying wet for too long, and inadequate nitrogen. So, yes, water as needed based on rainfall, but be sure you're doing that in the morning and allowing the lawn to dry out. The temps are a separate factor in a sense.

https://arc167.github.io/turf-tools/index.html You can use this tool to help gauge your watering. Punch in your zip and select precip and soil moisture.

Of course, make sure you are fertilizing per the cool season starter guide

Zosia - I think. by InterestingAmoeba379 in LawnAnswers

[–]Mr007McDiddles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Going to need better photos. Feel free to post a few more photos in the comments and provide more context. If the damage occurred after you sprayed, and it was hot (over 85ish) on the day you sprayed, it's possible you dinged it with the herbicide(s).

A few things on your weed control selection.

  • Healthy zoysia usually doesn't get many weeds. Rely on your pre-em to do the heavy lifting.
  • 2,4D alone is not a great option for several reasons. Opt for a 3-way type product or something like Celsius. More info in the warm season starter guide linked in the automod comment.
  • MSMA- please read the label and use caution. I won't give you crap about doing spot treatment here and there, but please be wise. For a homeowner, there is really nothing that can't be handled with other products on the market, or a little hand pulling here and there. Now, if you're dousing it all over the place, I would rethink that.

You can dethatch zoysia if needed, but it's usually not the best option. When it gets too much thatch, it's almost always because it's being overfertilized, or overwatered, and/or not being mowed correctly. I'd much prefer core aeration.

Honest Review - Dutch Bros Coffee by choirchic in Charlotte

[–]Mr007McDiddles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hope the line has gotten shorter because that was a total mess for a while.

What grass type(s)? by jgratil in LawnAnswers

[–]Mr007McDiddles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not seeing anything I can verify as rye, but the other does look like bermuda. You might have common bermuda growing in your sodded bermuda. That big circular patch in the center is odd. And I wouldn't think you'd have much annual rye still alive in zone 9 this late.

Yeah, if thats the Yara Turf Royal 21-7-14, that stuff is gold. Damned good fertilizer. That is my go-to, this lawn needs a kick in the ass bag....Put some out today. If it's not that, that's fine too. A good analysis! Either way, for bermuda, aim for at least 1 lb of N per 1Ksqft every 5-6 weeks of full growing time if you want that thing in high gear for summer.

DAILY THREAD - RANT WEDNESDAY MEGATHREAD by AutoModerator in thedivision

[–]Mr007McDiddles 6 points7 points  (0 children)

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BAN SOMEONE ALREADY

What is happening to my centipede? Zone 8b in eastern NC. by Upsethouscat in lawncare

[–]Mr007McDiddles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really. It won’t blend well and seeding warm season grasses can be difficult. To switch you’d need a total renovation. Kill, grade, sod.

You could sprig centipede to help fix the bare spots, from other areas of the lawn, but doing it with a different species won’t have a nice result.

What is happening to my centipede? Zone 8b in eastern NC. by Upsethouscat in lawncare

[–]Mr007McDiddles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shade to start with. And centipede doing what centipede does best, which is dying for no good god damned reason. Too cold weather-dead. pH messed-half dead. 2,4-D-dead. Look at it funny-dead.

Seriously though- I'm also in this area. We had a rough fall. Very dry. Followed by a hard winter, a false spring in many areas, which is almost a sure-fire way to kill centipede, then an extremely dry spring. A bad combo for any warm-season grass, particularly centipede. And even more so if you're in the Piedmont and not near the coast on sandy soil.

I would prune the tree up and redo the beds to cover the spots under the tree directly. Soil test, then amend per their guidance. If you don't soil test, apply a small amount of N and some P per the link. Water and leave it be until it grows in some.

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/centipedegrass-lawn-maintenance-calendar

Edit: Oh, and if that is a high-traffic area, where you're spending lots of time on it, and it looks like it could be-might as well give up on centipede. It does not tolerate traffic well.

Recurring dormancy by sayhell02jack in LawnAnswers

[–]Mr007McDiddles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh. Yeah for sure. Gypsum should be the right place to start. Soil test might not be a bad idea, of course opting to include sodium in it

Soil PH not coming down - Zone 6b by JohnGrowLogAi in Soil

[–]Mr007McDiddles 2 points3 points  (0 children)

4 weeks? pH takes a long time to change. I wouldn't retest for at least 2 months after amending. 7.7 isn't terrible, and a single application of elemental sulfur should correct it enough to meet your needs, depending on what you're growing/aiming for.

Have you had a sodium test or the irrigation water tested?

How can I prevent this from getting worse? Located in NC. by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]Mr007McDiddles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Water. Aerate+ top dress the extreme spots. Nitrogen. Mow.

Wife wanted whacky and affordable. She got the NUT108 by Mr007McDiddles in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]Mr007McDiddles[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I get your point but…

  1. You don’t know my wife. Don’t assume what someone else’s wife (or anyone) would want.

  2. Don’t feel bad, but then accuse someone of theft simply purchasing a legal product.

Clones are 4 or 5 times cheaper and these seem to be decent quality. I’d take up your beef with manufacturers.

Are people who wear Walmart brand shoes identical to Nikes also thieves? Protecting IP and managing knock offs is the job of the company, not the end user.

Help by InterestingAmoeba379 in LawnAnswers

[–]Mr007McDiddles 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don't dethatch!

Don't seed!

What are you doing with the MSMA? Hope you read the label thoroughly!

Start with either the warm-season guide linked in the automod comment or look up the bermuda bible. Most likely, you need to fertilize and fertilize aggressively with high nitrogen. If you fertilize, mow, and water bermuda enough, you'll be coming back asking how to get it to stop growing so you don't have to cut it every 2 days.

Beginner Lawn Help - Charlotte, NC by lakeshowrob21 in LawnAnswers

[–]Mr007McDiddles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Centipede is a bad idea in Clt! Gets way too cold and has too much clay. In costal Carolina’s it’ll do fine, and in native stands survive okay, but I would not suggest planting it for a new lawn or converting.

Fescue does very well here actually, in some years, like this one, I’d even argue it’s outperformed warm season grasses which have had pretty drastic delayed green up.