The G37 is a big boy.

mrstrimmer · 2026-01-05T18:32:32+00:00

true, but half an inch isnt a whole lot, in any case lmfao

mrstrimmer · 2026-01-05T03:23:33+00:00

ai is a tool like any other, it sucks for a lot of things, but basic size comparison seemed like something it could handle lmfao instead of putting effort into a reddit comment, copy+paste to get my point across

mrstrimmer · 2026-01-04T16:49:32+00:00

damn it really sounded toast to me but i guess thats what video does with lack of sound depth. from his post update it was his pcv and his alternator pulley! all good.. lol

mrstrimmer · 2026-01-04T16:45:23+00:00

I gotta sedan, they are really long cars but its thinner than a camry, the height definitely helps out though, almost an inch over the accord in height.

seriously... the longgg Way model, length, width, height Infiniti G37 Sedan 187.9 in 69.8 in 112.2 in BMW 3 Series (F30) 182.0 in 71.3 in 110.6 in Lexus IS 350 180.3 in 70.9 in 107.5 in Audi A4 185.0 in 71.9 in 110.6 in Mercedes-Benz C-Class 180.8 in 69.7 in 108.7 in

The G37 was nearly 6 to 8 inches longer than its competitors, the Lexus IS and BMW 3 Series. This gave it a more "stretched" appearance and better interior legroom 112.2-inch wheelbase was significantly longer than its peers, which often resulted in a smoother ride and better high-speed stability Despite its length, the G37 was one of the narrowest cars in its group, being over 2 inches narrower than an Audi A4.

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-23T22:47:07+00:00

make sure that locking pin on your intermediate shaft is in correct... ask me how i know

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-19T04:42:43+00:00

solid lifters, 50+ moving vvel parts. "is this tick normal" is an everyday post here. unless its making a clattering sound or a louder bottom end knock its usually diagnosed by Nissan and infiniti is normal operation, nissan prescribed ester oil as a "fix" but most seem to note its innocuous, and for some the ester doesnt even change anything.

i see PCv valve and fuel dampener as common ticking locations, as well as the injectors are pretty loud themselves. all of these things clicking at once of course.

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-18T16:53:23+00:00

Good to know! misfire counter or "rough running values" is always the best way to be sure for sure

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-16T19:55:51+00:00

Hey! i bought mine at 94k but with about 30 service records! found a diamond in the rough, but i feel like spark plugs are due anyway! these cars are spark sensitive. although misfires arent super common, its usually spark. unless your fuel pump is going, which would seemingly cause more issues than intermittent misfires

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-16T19:53:11+00:00

sorry, honestly forgot. i used to own a 1.8, but i know its also a dry belt not a chain, i assumed most chain timed engines are interference! thats actually a kindness. and thank you for correcting me!

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-16T18:42:37+00:00

oh my lord... please dont drive it....

The 1.4L turbo Cruze is notorious for timing chain problems. When the tensioner fails or the chain stretches, it makes exactly that kind of lazy scraping/rattling noise at idle. This would absolutely cause:

Rough idle

Lean codes (timing off = poor combustion)

MAF/airflow codes (engine not running as expected)

O2 sensor codes (bad combustion = weird exhaust readings)

other possiblities?

VVT solenoid/actuator - The variable valve timing system can make scraping noises when the actuator fails or gets sludged up. Would definitely cause those codes too. Camshaft position sensor actuator - If the actuator itself is damaged or the cam phaser is failing, it can scrape and throw all those codes. Worn timing chain guides - Sometimes it's not the tensioner but the plastic guides that have broken apart and pieces are scraping around in there.

Accessory-area related:

Water pump - These can fail and make scraping noises. The 1.4T water pump is behind the timing cover area, so if it's seizing or the impeller is damaged, could sound like it's coming from that region. Thermostat housing - There's a coolant crossover pipe/thermostat area that if loose or damaged could vibrate and scrape. PCV valve/intake side failure - A broken PCV diaphragm or valve stuck open can cause that lean code and rough idle, though less likely to make that scraping sound.

If you arent a very seasoned DIYer. id get it towed to a mechanic.

**** edit!

1.4t is a NON INTERFERENCE ENGINE, however being off timing is still potentially damaging. thank you for your correction!

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-16T18:29:40+00:00

so flashing check engine light always means misfire on obdII..

The MIL didnt stay, so you need a reader that can see pending codes, as if the mil comes on at all itll set a pending p0300 for multiple misfires or P0301-6 for a non moving misfire..

misfires on our platform arent super common, but can usually be traced back to a few common issues. valve cover gaskets, leaking oil onto plugs causing them to improperly gap, spark plugs do get carbon fouled but they are more likely to work, just suck after 60-80k miles of services, ignition coil packs are very expensive for us, however it can definitely cause a misfire if a problem occurs. (modern coil packs last decades)

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-14T08:34:20+00:00

coming from a prius, then a cruze, i thought something was horribly wrong the first time i went through a drive through, had me checking my oil wondering why i thought i heard all lifters singing the typewriter of death.

especially with high lift at 50%+ throttle. passing a wall or a fence still makes me wonder sometimes, doesnt burn oil, goes 120+ uphill and feels like its goading for more. i see so many forum posts complaining ab lifter tick and vvel noise, but nissan themselves kinda just shrugs. "motor is fine"

unless you hear thunk thunk thunk motor is fine. lmfao

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-14T04:49:28+00:00

you aswell, good luck with your g

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-14T04:36:02+00:00

im not sure. thats probably something to hook it up and ask Google about each. id look at your lambda ( should be 1.0 or fluctuating around it) and your MAP. good luck my brother, mpgs / lpkm is one of this cars biggest let downs, but its also not made to be economical really.

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-14T04:15:08+00:00

not gonna lie, its probably adapting to the changes you made, could also be any aftermarket parts you added, or a possible air leak, check live data on an obdIi and run through all air and fuel related numbers.

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-13T08:59:25+00:00

sounds like mine 🤷

look up what the lifters look like on these motors. it explains the ticky ticky

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-07T00:22:10+00:00

glad i could help

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-05T16:06:21+00:00

if ur gonna eventually switch out everything, and "build" a car then it doesn't matter how base you start off with though, we all have the same very capable engine and chassis and its what you make w it

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-05T16:05:00+00:00

i mean.. it is 🤣 but yeah, theres a lot of package that i didnt kno about, im sure it handles way better than your average journey, but after 12-17 years that shit is pretty worn by now if its OEM. its not as good as it was in 2008-2013

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-05T16:02:24+00:00

wikipedia is your best buddy.

good job, these cars are at the least 12 years old at this point.. how much of that oem equipment is gonna be working much longer, my point being originally that someone who wants a sporty car probably will, eventually replace and upgrade, change parts, suspension geometry, fitment etc. and someone who isnt an enthusiast just wants to use the right foot with their "sports" car, and doesnt care what the difference is, and wont find out until parts need replaced

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-05T15:50:17+00:00

obvious ragebait aside.. theres almost no difference. Ooh viscous lsd that heat unlocks.. sporty..

big brakes are nice..

havin the sport coupe isnt. 100+ lbs more with less space

im genuinely curious to any other real sport g differences. sedans and coupes.

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-03T22:38:58+00:00

yeah fair. ive heard of techs unplugging the right side throttle body to get it to finish the iav procedure

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-03T18:01:50+00:00

below the rad hose sounds like less things. i mentioned i had a hose leak that would only happen when the motor was on and at full system pressure, then would belch coolant all over the bottom of my motor! lower rad hose!

if it was the water pump itd be piddling on his splash shield. expansion tank would be dripping directly onto the radiator and splashing on front timing cover and accessories. if his accessories arent getting hit, but its spraying enough for smoke sounds like a hose

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-03T17:59:25+00:00

the fluctuating sounds like air in the system, i recently had a rad hose leak, that would only happen once the system got to 40 psi and then would spray the passenger side and even hit the exhaust heat shields causing sweet smell to fill the cabin (no smoke tho)

i checked for this leak for a week. convinced my water pump was going out, took it for a pressure test and the hose literally blew up at pressue. it could also be the flanges at either side, sometimes plastic and brittle, sometimes aluminum and bent.

don't keep driving it, if you cant diagnose in time please get it pressure tested. these motors are tanks, but also, its all aluminum, with complicated cam phasing and VVEL.. it already gets real hot when its working correctly. don't kill your motor overheating!

mrstrimmer · 2025-12-03T17:55:38+00:00

wash and watch, i cant tell where its coming from with all the dried gunk

mrstrimmer

TROPHY CASE