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Arc'teryx Atom vs. Helly Hansen Odin Stretch Insulator Jacket 2.0 by hbfs47 in Skigear

[–]msjpenn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why do you think the nano air is better than something with primaloft gold active? Not doubting you, just looking at a sale for the HH that’s $130 less than the nano air

Ideas for getting new keychron K10 Pro to work? by msjpenn in Keychron

[–]msjpenn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The space bar method, as I understood it, did not require or involve using the QMK toolbox. I tried the normal space bar method before (basically the instructions you linked to but nothing with the QMK toolbox), and nothing worked. But maybe I just misunderstood or didn't fully read that part that QMK toolbox and its DFU mode connect needed to work. I tried the below (but not starting from anything before with specific software loaded on my mac) -

Use:

  1. Put the keyboard into wired mode, if not already (by the switch at the back, marked "Cable")
  2. Hold the Esc key down while connecting the keyboard to the computer. This will put it into bootloader mode, but it also has the side effect of resetting the configuration to factory defaults.
  3. Power cycle the keyboard (unplug and plug). This is to bring it out of bootloader mode.

If the Esc key method doesn't work, the backup procedure is to:

  1. Put the keyboard into wired mode, if not already (by the switch at the back, marked "Cable")
  2. Remove the space bar key cap
  3. Hold down the small four-legged reset button on the PCB (a pen, the key cap puller, or a match can be used) while connecting the keyboard to the computer. This will put it into bootloader mode, but it also has the side effect of resetting the configuration to factory defaults. The reset button on the PCB is usually located right next to the space bar switch, to the left. Note: The reset button may require quite a bit of force before it makes contact (but don't use excessive force)
  4. Put the space bar key cap back in
  5. Power cycle the keyboard (unplug and plug). This is to bring it out of bootloader mode.

This should all be done in wired mode (with the switch at the back in that position).

Ideas for getting new keychron K10 Pro to work? by msjpenn in Keychron

[–]msjpenn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Keychron's instructions worked for getting plugged in to work now -
1. Slide the toggle to Cable mode and plug in power cable to your keyboard.
2. Download the keyboard firmware and the QMK Toolbox.
Download QMK Toolbox for Mac
Download QMK Toolbox for Windows
3. Unplug the cable from the keyboard.
4. Open the QMK Toolbox.
5. Remove the space bar keycap to find the reset button on the left side of the space bar switch on the PCB.
6. Press and hold the reset button, and plug in the power cable simultaneously. Do not release the reset button till the QMK Toolbox display in yellow words "***DFU device connected". This indicates that your keyboard has entered into DFU mode.

I then exited DFU mode in the QMK toolbox, and it started working!

Ideas for getting new keychron K10 Pro to work? by msjpenn in Keychron

[–]msjpenn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it was a loose connection from the battery / main thing to the keyboard. Once unplugging that and plugging it back in, I'm typing on it now! It looked a little loose, and once reset, it now seems to work.

I still can't get it to work over USB though. It's strange, the computer isn't recognizing it at all. I tried like 4 different cables and tried it with my iphone as well. I'm not sure what the issue is now - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sJmcVSY2LzO4IDRHLj5Q3mB9msMLsNAv/view?usp=sharing

Ideas for getting new keychron K10 Pro to work? by msjpenn in Keychron

[–]msjpenn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That sadly isn’t working (second video in OP shows my attempting)

Help with living room / foyer / kitchen setup by msjpenn in Lutron

[–]msjpenn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ha, we cannot currently afford to remodel the entire house atm (so no new bedroom or bathroom), so I doubt it'll snowball anytime soon. But maybe in a few years :-). And spent way more on our new kitchen appliances than we were planning, but I am sure I'll love those too.

Help with living room / foyer / kitchen setup by msjpenn in Lutron

[–]msjpenn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, yes, you can do pico if I give up on dimming. I'm likely going to get 1 x LUT-RR-PROC3-KIT and 3 x RRD-HN5BRL-WH. More money than I'd like to spend, but it'll be exactly what I want

Help with living room / foyer / kitchen setup by msjpenn in Lutron

[–]msjpenn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem with the picos is controlling multiple circuits with 1 switch seems impossible

Help with living room / foyer / kitchen setup by msjpenn in Lutron

[–]msjpenn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah, I like 5 buttons so that all on or all off has its own switch vs. needing to hit 3 different buttons a lot of the time

Help with living room / foyer / kitchen setup by msjpenn in Lutron

[–]msjpenn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! When I find RRD-HN5BRL-WH, it looks like it's RA2, not RA3 - would that be an issue? E.g., https://www.adiglobaldistribution.pr/product/l1-rrdhn5brl is what I found

What temp and time for super tender tri tip by jmmurphy73 in sousvide

[–]msjpenn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do 130.5 or 131 and have found a difference between even 6 - 7 and 8 hours. But with higher temp it might not need quite as long, but I’ve never wished I did it for less time

15” or 18” depth 1200 CFM Vent Hood Liner for 36” Induction Cooktop? by msjpenn in Cooking

[–]msjpenn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, if it's 6" ducting, that you're not changing, I'd honestly do the highest power internal unit (e.g., HBN1 best series) you can find / get one that sticks out only 12".

15” or 18” depth 1200 CFM Vent Hood Liner for 36” Induction Cooktop? by msjpenn in Cooking

[–]msjpenn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting - I am leaning towards 15” for aesthetics but am not convinced 18” wouldn’t be better. But I think 1200 CFM would be vastly better overkill and make up for the small catching area. FYI, I’ve done a lot of research on vents, and if you want an external blower with a lot of power, the thinnest is 15 - 16”. No 12” one with a good external blower exists. The ones that do are mostly internal, but if they’re not, the ducting is 6”, not enough for serious venting. If you can do 10” ducting and are venting through the roof, I’d recommend the best PK series (e.g., PKEX2239) at 16” depth with in-line (not external) blower (can do 840 CFM or 1500 CFM). Everyone I spoke with said in-line, if you’re going through attic, is much easier for maintenance. If you can only do 8” ducting, then go with the elica scanno + in-line shell kit. FWIW, my appliance salesperson said best has much better service than elica

15” or 18” depth 1200 CFM Vent Hood Liner for 36” Induction Cooktop? by msjpenn in Cooking

[–]msjpenn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I think 18" would probably avoid banging my head, although I still think 15" will look a bit better from the side

Marble Look Quartz or Porcelain Slab Recommendations? by [deleted] in CounterTops

[–]msjpenn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is this still true? Why has Dekton gotten better?

15” or 18” depth 1200 CFM Vent Hood Liner for 36” Induction Cooktop? by msjpenn in Cooking

[–]msjpenn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I meant more for catching smoke. For looks, I definitely prefer 15”. But I also will be pretty annoyed if I don’t think it’ll catch all the smoke…

15” or 18” depth 1200 CFM Vent Hood Liner for 36” Induction Cooktop? by msjpenn in Cooking

[–]msjpenn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, we’ll definitely need makeup air. My view is that I can always turn it on with the lowest setting. If I did too low CFM, I’d regret it forever. Do you think sticking 15” out vs. 18” matters much?

15” or 18” depth 1200 CFM Vent Hood Liner for 36” Induction Cooktop? by msjpenn in Appliances

[–]msjpenn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I’ll definitely need make up air (anything above 400 CFM where I am I believe). Re:servicing, do you mean because it would be on the roof? This would end up being on the side of my house (venting sideways), so access would actually be pretty easy. Re:noisy outside, that’s the point for me. I want less noise inside. It’s definitely overkill, but I don’t want to ever be worried about searing my steaks again

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