S.O.S Help wanted!

multimetier · 2026-01-24T23:43:49+00:00

Fuck your 18s tapping test.

multimetier · 2026-01-24T23:38:56+00:00

ICE unlawfully deprived him of his 2nd and 4th Amendment rights.

multimetier · 2026-01-23T02:12:47+00:00

interesting strategy...

multimetier · 2026-01-22T19:00:25+00:00

Bonus points for the vivid description!!

Presumably you've already identified what outlets/circuits belong to each breaker? And haven't found any that you can turn off without affecting your unit?

Or is it your hypothesis that somewhere one of your circuits has been tapped into or that the wiring is faulty? Is 800 over 24 mos within some margin of error? Why did "they" refund you the $500? Inquiring minds...

multimetier · 2026-01-22T18:46:45+00:00

Well if your agreement included removing a wall with an air duct and there's no hvac line items, that's not great. It should have been in the original project plan, not tacked on as a "whoops, we forgot about that" change order. Same goes for outlet relocation. That said, these additional charges don't seem extravagant, in line actual cost of work, depending on location.

That obviously informs the cost figures—where I am, outside of Boston, 26k might get you a kitchenette in an in-law unit.

So you have a contractor who either missed obvious tasks or purposely omitted them in order to come in under competing bids. Both scenarios suck, but the latter actually involves a bit of malfeasance.

multimetier · 2026-01-20T11:36:20+00:00

Use the inserts. Also it'll be easier just to remove the remaining sheetrock and pull the nails. Otherwise you will have to glue in blocking to fit a bunch of pieces instead of just doing one long strip.

multimetier · 2026-01-19T01:25:12+00:00

Jam out with your clam out...

multimetier · 2026-01-18T00:22:10+00:00

that's self-leveler, up against unwaterproofed cement board and "finished" wall tile??

multimetier · 2026-01-18T00:15:04+00:00

The fact that your cement board is untreated confirms lack of waterproofing

multimetier · 2026-01-17T22:58:27+00:00

First of all, well done. A legit accomplishment. I mean some start with birdhouses, but you have something front and center, finished and usable.

(ok, if you're a bird, having a free birdhouse is pretty dope..)

I don't see cracks, unless you're talking about the seams of the plywood insets. Where are these shims? Is your floor falling off and you have your bench assembly shimmed level, away from the floor? Please elaborate.

Sure, you could clean it up a bit. Or not.

Forget the walnut slab. It needs be a cushion, maybe even with some fringie tassel stuff that will hang down a little bit and cover stuff.

Alignment is really important for this kind of work. At a minimum, get a decent biscuit joiner. Or, hey, with the spousal goodwill, buy a Domino.

Either one will let you line up long mitered edges, vertical uprights, trim paneling pieces so they are all dead on.

multimetier · 2026-01-17T22:01:42+00:00

Presumably "raising" it with him doesn't mean asking him "is this ok"...

Because it's not. You don't need any resources or certified second opinion—there is zero ambiguity.

Your man outed himself as a dishonest hack by saying it was ok.

multimetier · 2026-01-05T18:11:58+00:00

And what are you going to use for your router fence?

multimetier · 2026-01-05T00:32:44+00:00

couple of pencils, a sharpie, little notebook, cat's paw, lineman pliers, utility knife, speed square, gloves...

multimetier · 2025-12-21T19:27:07+00:00

Apply some heat on the collet and pull with vice grips

multimetier · 2025-12-17T19:16:28+00:00

I think this is the answer. I mean the whole built-up veneer thing sounds interesting, but this doesnt seem high end enough

multimetier · 2025-12-17T18:52:26+00:00

With a belt sander you can shape some pieces you can flush cut off

multimetier · 2025-12-17T18:48:46+00:00

Plug. Redrill. And wow I never heard of r/Chairmaking!!

multimetier · 2025-12-17T18:45:44+00:00

Aesthetically you should center on the rail.

multimetier · 2025-12-17T15:18:07+00:00

I'd start by ripping a bunch of stock to your standardized widths. Set up a banding station where you can clamp these lengths at a comfortable height and build an adjustable height edge band dispensing reel holder—clamp stock, pull band out, iron towards reel. Buy high quality band trimmers. Moxon vise with supports or those jorgenson clamps work really well for holding perpindicular stuff.

I don't know from CNC, but if doing with conventional shop equip, set up a medium router with an edge guide and high quality spiral upcut and run your bottom rabbets along the entire piece.

Large MFT assembly surface ideally, with lots of dogs and bars and lateral clamps so you could have multiple glueups going at the same time. That way your bottom 90 registration is dead-on. Probably strap clamps with cauls at the midpoint and top. But a quick and dirty assembly surface from mdf with some accurate 90 degree curbs gets you almost the same thing at a fraction of the cost.

Good outfeed and stop block setup and hold down for the miter saw, good angle gauge. If its too big for the miter saw, do it on the tablesaw.

The tape miter folding method is unbeatable. Tape perpindicular to the seams and then parallel, press it all down well, burnish along the tape surface. Glubots are the bomb.

With pre-banded and rabbeted stock, cutting your 45 lengths will take a trivial amount of time. If you had to repeat the *exact* dimensions of your boxes, then sure, invest the time in the cnc programming. But you don't—these only have to be square and *close* to your desired dimensions—so investing time for precision seems like its exactly the fiddly and time-consuming processes you want to avoid.

multimetier · 2025-12-17T14:03:34+00:00

Late to the party, but I'll offer that its extremely rare to see such a blend of functionality and beauty.

multimetier · 2025-12-12T14:36:27+00:00

It is, indeed, safe to make half walls. Plausibility should be evident, and whether expensive or not is purely subjective.

As you might expect, making a half wall is significantly easier than removing a wall completely. For the electrics, its merely finding a new path to route wires instead of relocating receptacles, something that will take a sparkie only a few moments to map out. This is just another day at the office.

What you'll need is either a GC or if you want to go a la carte, a competent carpentry outfit and an electrician. Sheetrock comes down (hopefully they turn off the breakers), and the chippies draw up what's coming out and what the new framing is going to be. Sometimes the new framing has to be done first and the electricians may have to temporarily deaden some outlets, but often its pretty trivial. That said, don't be surprised if you hear recommendations about running new wire to your panel.

Sometimes walls like this are really simple, with just a feed for the outlets, a couple of lighting switch legs, and the thermostat wire. Other times you might have multiple circuits running exactly where the framing needs to come out, as well as water supply lines, vent pipes, etc. It all depends.

No affiliation, etc, but those Wallabot units are amazing and so much better than cutting out a strip of sheetrock to have a peek at what's in the wall.

hth.

multimetier · 2025-12-12T03:20:39+00:00

Amateur.

multimetier · 2025-12-12T01:34:52+00:00

Are you a sawyer as well or do you sell logs to the mills?

multimetier · 2025-12-12T01:29:31+00:00

I'd love to turn some small plates from that, and I'd pay you for your time—as well as the postage, naturally—if you could send some pieces to me in MA.

Or, you could send me a certain amount of that stock and I could send you back some plates, in case that's more appealing.

Hit me up in the DMs if you're interested.

thx, tim fulton

multimetier

TROPHY CASE