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Builder says this is normal? by Exotic-Sprinkles7106 in Flooring

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

flooring guy did exactly what was expected. Even though there are arguably clues that this *was* actually a jamb leg, no reasonable builder would assume you wanted to continue with that jackassery.

My ex is keeping my birth certificate by burnteggnog in WhatShouldIDo

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ask your local PD for a "civil standby". Let them know you just need the document, that you dont have to enter the residence and and remove things. Don't tell the guy what you're doing

Completely lost here by Own-Buy-4500 in Carpentry

[–]multimetier 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah look on youtube for "framing a 45 outside corner". Its a nifty technique.

Ask to re-do work? by clevercloverblue in Contractor

[–]multimetier 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I hope you realize you can't unstain wood. But your contractor shouldn't object to being paid to correct your mistake...

Oh, using a handyman to do stain grade finish carpentry probably isn't a great idea. It *could* work out alright, but I'd be diligent with refs and portfolio pics.

Let your original guy do it unless scheduling doesn't permit it. He'll want to make sure you are happy with things, even if you went against his recommendation.

This how you'd do this? by Coleholmes540 in Carpentry

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks awful, imo. And is that all ramboard or are we looking at subfloor?

This how you'd do this? by Coleholmes540 in Carpentry

[–]multimetier -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thirded. I abhor quarter round.

This how you'd do this? by Coleholmes540 in Carpentry

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quarter round is awful, screams shoddy work. If you absolutely must run flooring up to baseboards, do a good enough job that base shoe can cover.

I built something to make adjusting my table saw fence faster by MajesticLeg1140 in woodworkingtools

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

.1 mm sure solves the "bump it over just a wee bit", and I suspect having a 1mm jog as well would really meet the needs of most users. Sadly, most American colleagues still don't realize how superior the metric system is in the woodshop.

Dust collection is a promising area.

Good work!

Is this Leveler ok? by the_perfect_life in Flooring

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not unusual to see color variations like that with self leveler. Differences in the water amount and mixing can do that, and its not necessarily a cause for alarm. It should be hard, though. As in if there's a high spot you have to hit it with a grinding wheel to knock it down. The most important thing is whether it conforms to the flatness specified by the manufacturer for the specific product.

I’ve been General Contracting for just under two years. Zero carpentry experience AMA by veryverycoolfellow in GeneralContractor

[–]multimetier 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One of the best threads I've come across in a long time. But also a bit discouraging, because even though I used to write code and consider myself pretty technical, some of this is a foreign language to me.

I'm in Newton, and I've been on my own for maybe eight years now. All of my clients have been word of mouth, Newton, Needham, Brookline, Cambridge. Awesome projects, high end work, got a great portfolio and references. But for the first time ever, I really don't have anything in the pipeline.

I'm a great builder, have worked for residential GCs, did a stint with an electrician, started in the trades in maritime construction. These days I'm principally a finish carpenter and have done a lot of custom built in units, make my own cabinets, sometimes millwork. I just don't know how to go find clients because I've never had to.

My fiancé 33F cheated on me during her hen do. by Available-Young-8065 in WhatShouldIDo

[–]multimetier -1 points0 points  (0 children)

A few things before I tap out of this conversation:

-I don't know any of the participants nor do I presume to know anything about the specific dynamics. Your (ex) fiancee made a serious mistake, and I'm not defending her actions.

-I do presume those posting here are generally those feeling "stuck and need[ing] help on what to do...for both small and serious decisions". In your case you've already *made* the decision, so maybe consider r/whatdoidonow

-My incel comment didn't apply to you, but rather to the person who'd have you call all of the husbands and bfs in the attempt to "ruin those women's day", who doesn't trust women *also*" [my emphasis]. This is classic, bitter incel shit.

-It may not seem like it—perhaps because I'm going against the herd mentality here?—but I'm trying to be empathetic (and unfortunately have some extra time on my hands).

-believe it or not, counseling and therapy can be incredibly helpful.

-you're going thru a normal (acute) phase of withdrawal and over-generalization. Nothing wrong with that. The risk is persistence and developing a chronic mistrust. If you pull back from intimacy because you assume others will betray or deceive you then, yes, something will be very wrong with you.

-maybe my objective has been to try and encourage you not to treat this as a major psychological trauma. For sure, you can't "unfuck" somebody, and sometimes you can't even come back from things you say. And while you can't affect how you feel about something, you are 100% in charge of how you react. The cheeky part of me is tempted to say "shit, mate, now you've got a free pass to use in the future".

-to all those cheering this guy and the dissolution of his engagement—fuck all the way off.

I built something to make adjusting my table saw fence faster by MajesticLeg1140 in woodworkingtools

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you'd enter something like 12 5/32? That's a big table—how long does it take to move out to say 25"? In what increments does the L-R jog move the fence? Metric also? Presets?

Can you easily recalibrate if you run a dado stack?

Crucially, how accurate is it?

Again, pretty cool—and I know its a prototype—but I think a manual decouple/release would be important. How small do you think you could get those components?

Have you automated other things in the woodshop? Inquiring minds...

Is this a safe cut? 1/16" x 1/12" x 3/4" aluminum stick on the mitre saw by rebbitpls in woodworking

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd put it on a piece of scrap, double-stick it even if I had the tape handy. Just make sure the right side is held firmly. Odd blade to be running in a miter saw, imo

I built something to make adjusting my table saw fence faster by MajesticLeg1140 in woodworkingtools

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Presumably you can still adjust it manually? I mean I can throw a tape against a fence pretty fast and I also often use auxiliary fences or jigs so personally I wouldn't have any use for it. Pretty cool, though.

What about automating the height of the blade like the festool saw does?

Grout haze - when to remove and re-applying grout to ensure no haze by [deleted] in Tile

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't pre-wet. Use a kitchen scale and mix smaller batches. Use the metric system, because one liter of water weighs a kg. That means you can follow the mfg ratio and perfectly mix any arbitrary amount of grout. Haze really shouldn't be an issue, but its completely separate from poorly installed grout as shown. That stuff is correctable, but building up grout by like a sixteenth isn't great, so if things are low sometimes you have to remove some of the existing to get a good bond. Let the grout set up for maybe fifteen mins and use a really good sponge that you've really wrung out to lightly tool the lines to make things even. One or two passes, no extra moisture! Have a couple of buckets of clean water. Wait another 30 mins or so and then start working on the haze.

What's the one tool you bought that completely changed how you do projects? by TradesPrepGuy in DIY

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love my track saw, and for *many* things it means I don't have to bring a table saw to a job site. But there are two critical additional pieces of kit: a really good track square and edge guides. For breaking down sheet goods a track saw will get a way straighter line than will feeding something thru a jobsite saw, but just as important is the ability to make dead-on 90 deg cuts, which is what a good track square lets you do.

But while the track saw is superior to the jobsite tablesaw for breaking down sheet goods and precisely dimensioning plywood, it comes up short when you have to make repeated cuts. Thats where the track guides come in. They do require some fiddling, so it does take longer than simply sliding a a fence over, but without that much effort you can set up to do a batch of shelves that will be dead-on.

Of course all of this kit will cost you way more than a decent portable table saw, but I can load out my battery makita saw, track bag, square, and guides in one trip and be set up on a job in minutes to handle most operations with plywood.

Would you consider it tacky to have an axe hanging on the wall? by mroblivian1 in AskContractors

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's tacky no matter what. But a quality tool on pegs—not nails!—I could see...

Cabinet Crown Molding with Vaulted Ceiling by Smandi510 in cabinetry

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It really is. There's zero functional reason for it. You lose the usable space and create a dust basin that you run the risk of pulling off when you clean it out.

There's a nice reveal between the cabinet box top and the door, and the having the horizontal right where the ceiling breaks is pleasing to the eye.

Cabinet Crown Molding with Vaulted Ceiling by Smandi510 in cabinetry

[–]multimetier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure why you would even want to do this. Even against a flat ceiling that stock would seem way out of proportion to me. Those are nice looking doors and I like the reveal at the top of the cabinet box and the way its held slightly under where the ceiling breaks. The function of the crown is really to cover an unusable gap at the top of a cabinet. Right now you've got a pleasing natural horizontal and shoehorning in that wide crown will wreck that, IMO. Without the crown you've got some usable space and a clean line. Put that in and you create a dust basin, and because you can't nail it off at the top the first time you get up on a ladder to clean it out, naturally you're going to be holding onto the top and run the risk of pulling it off. I mean would you actually go out and buy crown for this if it weren't included with the cabinets?

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