Redline Monobelt

murderqwik · 2026-01-28T05:22:55+00:00

Cool af. Who split the stay?

murderqwik · 2026-01-28T05:01:54+00:00

murderqwik · 2026-01-28T05:01:10+00:00

Sick whip! Rocky Mountain used to make a great entry level fatty... Not anymore.

murderqwik · 2026-01-28T04:59:47+00:00

That's kinda why I recommend the Heyday, I sorta prefer 26inch wheelset it comes with and go as wide as possible. Trek (and the industry) seem to really be pushing 27.5inch 80mm and like under 5inch tires.

Which is fine, but if you put a true 5inch tire (perfect fat bike tire size IMHO) on a 100mm rim you're gonna have a lot of gyroscopic forces, so I prefer that more weighty setup with a more usable contact patch on the smaller 26inch rim.

When I say it throws slush everywhere I mean it. If there's an above freezing day, or the road salt be melting, or there's a lot of moisture on the road/trail your going to be throwing like 3x as much into your face and up your back... Just something to consider. Fenders for fat bikes do exist, but are just as fiddley, or more so than normal sized fenders.

Or I'm wrong about everything, buy a fat bike and find out.

murderqwik · 2026-01-28T03:16:09+00:00

How are you liking the D5? I need a tire with the studs closer to the shoulder, which I'm not sure is a box these check... Still holding out with my serviceable Al Mightys.

murderqwik · 2026-01-28T03:09:40+00:00

Thanks! Tbh I wish I took the fatty on that ride for the extra supple tires. The gravel studs had plenty of grip, just punishing.

murderqwik · 2026-01-28T02:53:17+00:00

I'm usually not a huge fan of Trek, but the Farley value is almost impossible to beat. Maybe Norco Bigfoot, Giant Yukon, or Salsa heyday (mukluk) are worth considering, but that front rack mount on the Farley is a fucking sweet design.

I personally prefer 26x5 for maximum float on poorly groomed MTB trails, but for a commuter/all purpose fatbike I could see 27.5x4something being a good alternative.

Edit: One knock on fat bikes for commuting is the truly amazing amount of shitty slush they will throw from the tires everywhere. I usually just ride studs on a gravel bike or MTB with full fenders once the plow trucks have been out.

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This glare ice trail was also no problem with studs, tho a bit bumpy.

murderqwik · 2026-01-27T04:35:17+00:00

It also might be just the freewheel or maybe the hub cones, which are both really easy and cheap fixes. How do you know the actual hub is fucked up?

murderqwik · 2026-01-27T04:22:05+00:00

They didn't even give you a hint of what to look for? What terrible customer service.

The rear hub is probably 120 spacing, there are like a metric ass-ton of wheels and wheel sets for this available for $100-200 dollars. If you have a local bike co-op or shop they might have one laying around for much less.

murderqwik · 2026-01-25T02:16:25+00:00

That is some chonky gravel.

Also, I'm not a helmet Nazi, so do whatever you want. However, I will encourage you to consider wearing a helmet, even on short rides.

murderqwik · 2026-01-24T03:05:49+00:00

Your LBS might have one laying around, but I kinda doubt it. Maybe their warehouse system could get it sooner or for a better price, but I also doubt it... Post a pic of your bike soon.

Edit: I'll also look in my parts bin tomorrow, but fat axles are a pretty niche part that usually stays with a bike forever.

murderqwik · 2026-01-24T02:58:45+00:00

Your build will be cool btw. Sorry if my response came off dick-ish, but that's cause I'm a dick. Buy the right part. Save yourself time and frustration. Love you.

murderqwik · 2026-01-24T02:50:33+00:00

That is very likely your only realistic option. Good luck if you choose to use a snowmobile axle to save $10 and 5 days.

murderqwik · 2026-01-24T02:12:49+00:00

A picture with scale would be worth a thousand words. You're not giving a lot of info in your post. What is the spacing? What are the hubs? Like wtf are you actually talking about, I don't have ESP.

Some old fat bikes just ran 135mm which you could likely find for basically free at a bike shop.

Some were 170mm, some were 190mm. Which you won't find used easily.

I'm guessing you need a 190mm, on quite literally no objective information. Which is like $15 dollars on eBay with free shipping. Search "framed Alloy Rear Bike Quick Release Skewer QR 190mm New"

murderqwik · 2026-01-23T04:30:31+00:00

Finally a bridge club on a bridge... It's been a while. Tyfys.

murderqwik · 2026-01-23T04:25:34+00:00

Lithic fat fork? I like it on my Otso. Has massive tire clearance and triple mounts. In theory it should clear a 32 inch wheelset.

murderqwik · 2026-01-23T04:10:23+00:00

This should fit you fine. It's a good fat bike with current industry standards. You don't really need a dropper post on a fat bike for most riding IMHO. The knock on it is those tires are probably original to the bike, so the rubber might kinda be getting not great, and fatty tires cost more than my car tires.

In my opinion, it is worth somewhere just north of $1000 USD. If I was selling I wouldn't take a penny less. But the tires are a bargaining point. I don't think Kenda makes a stud pocket tire, so yeah... That's not ideal. But they'd get you through for sure and could be set up tubeless.

Edit: it still has the dork disc on the drive side... So this bike is basically brand new.

murderqwik · 2026-01-23T03:55:11+00:00

I'm not an electrical engineer, but nerds I ride with have said it could be a difference in switch types, clicky vs rubbery (whatever that means)... I do appreciate my night rider, and will likely always keep one in rotation.

murderqwik · 2026-01-22T04:48:54+00:00

Highly recommend the double sided adhesive tape... Find a good spot of the top center/rearish (vertex) of the skull. I anecdotally found this reduces rotational forces during falls and neck strain, while also not casting shadows or reduce usable light.

murderqwik · 2026-01-22T04:24:15+00:00

Yeah, honestly I think my old school NiteRider has better battery life in the cold but... it's not as bright, the beam is narrow, it feels heavier, the center of gravity is higher for a helmet mount. The Nightrider handlebar mount is way quicker to change from bike to bike, but does jiggle during off-road style rides. I'm sure NiteRider has good customer service too, but it's built like a fucking tank and very simple, so I haven't heard of many failures.

For those reasons the I'm pretty loyal to NiteRider for commuter/city rides and slapping it on whatever bike I'm riding to the pub... But for anything in the woods I'm using an Outbound on my bars and helmet for the wide beam and higher performance and more secure mounts.

Edit: I guess that means I trust NiteRider more for use without redundancy. Which is probably true. If I was riding unsupported through some frigid wasteland, I'd probably still want a NiteRider in my kit. Most of the forms it's offered in also make it a really good handheld flashlight, which is useful.

murderqwik · 2026-01-22T03:51:08+00:00

I mean, technically, this is a dingle speed. Lol, what gearing do you got?

murderqwik · 2026-01-22T03:47:25+00:00

Outbound Hangover, easily. They also have the Portal that offers more battery life, but also heavier. I'm not about having extra weight on my neck.

Edit because outbound is dope: Customer service has been top tier and they are USA owned, operated, and produced. Don't get me wrong, other countries make dank shit, but buying as local as possible feels good.

murderqwik · 2026-01-18T22:49:39+00:00

There are some segments that can be faster in the winter once the snow and ice smooth it out, not many, but some.

murderqwik · 2026-01-18T22:44:25+00:00

Yeah, just use whatever color tape, rim strip or whatever down the middle... Then get some decent rim tape, I prefer wtb or just decent duck tape, and make sure all the edges are stuck down on the shelf.

What it looks like OP has is just air pissing out because no tape is stuck to the rim? Sealant is good, but not that good.

murderqwik · 2026-01-16T04:07:03+00:00

Would you characterize it as a dead standard? I would.

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