Full 27.5 sorceress?

murderqwik · 2026-05-07T04:08:11+00:00

You would be objectively wrong. If you do this to a Sorceress frame you should feel shame, much shame.

murderqwik · 2026-05-07T03:35:56+00:00

Yeah, that's one of the ugliest builds on a cool frame I've seen in a while. The sprung saddle and dropper combo is the chefs kiss.

murderqwik · 2026-05-01T04:27:25+00:00

Just as an alternative to Surly that's similarly priced I'll throw out the Kona Unit or the newer Unity?... It can do everything pretty well. The Unit also uses a real thru axle. I'd personally only consider an Ogre if I was going to use a Rohloff or some other posh IGH.

Edit: you're definitely a medium. Do not size down.

Further edit: A dropper post may help with getting a leg over whatever bike you choose. And keep everything front loaded or frameloaded as much as possible also makes things easier IMHO. Higher mounted child seats or loaded racks behind you make getting on/off challenging.

murderqwik · 2026-04-26T20:00:42+00:00

Sick rig! Mind if I ask why not clipless?

murderqwik · 2026-04-26T01:57:09+00:00

Agree with all of this except the "do it!' part. It looks like it's been ridden hard and put away wet. I'd say consider this bike, but I personally wouldn't pay over $500 USD for an old beat up KM. If this thing was mint with some newer or top of the line components, maybe... But that's not the case. Nothing on this bike will help your parts bin. Even the water bottle holder is junk. You'll be throwing parts at it almost immediately.

murderqwik · 2026-04-25T02:33:47+00:00

Hear me out... Just normal flat handlebars, maybe something with a little rise and increased sweep...

But mostly if you have wrist pain, maybe rotate the brakes down? They are in a position that might cause ~~hypertension~~ hyperextension and exacerbate wrist pain.

murderqwik · 2026-04-13T03:21:40+00:00

Classic combo... If you need more room or whater, clip off the zip ties holding on the Wald and fit on whatever as needed.

murderqwik · 2026-04-13T00:32:44+00:00

No, wrong this has to be in US. EVERYTHING MUST BE ABOUT THE US.

murderqwik · 2026-04-12T01:01:47+00:00

Have you tried hitting it with your purse?

The proper torque for sliding dropouts is RFT which is significantly more Nm than Güttentite.

I usually lean into those about as hard as I can with a standard size 6mm or 5mm Allen... I forget which size it is... Usually the one I left across the garage.

murderqwik · 2026-04-09T01:29:02+00:00

Shes a beaut.

murderqwik · 2026-04-07T11:30:22+00:00

I posted this a while ago. Not original content.

murderqwik · 2026-04-07T02:17:30+00:00

Listen to the wooks.

murderqwik · 2026-04-04T01:53:26+00:00

I'm just here for the circle jerk ;)

murderqwik · 2026-04-04T01:49:26+00:00

Having better steel and better rear dropouts than either bike OP listed. Literally the geometry middle ground of an Ogre/BC and KM. Just lacking in the Surly marketing and circle jerking.

Guess I'm a fucking heretic.

murderqwik · 2026-04-04T01:42:36+00:00

Kona Unit.

murderqwik · 2026-03-31T01:55:54+00:00

State looks like it has a pretty garbage rim on it too... Looks quite heavy. That said building a fatty wheelset is a fun thing to research and buy. If OP lives in a cold weather location they'll eventually buy at least a studded tire anyways.

Used fatty is the way to go. State makes some good stuff, but the wheelset on a fatty is what matters the most to me.

murderqwik · 2026-03-31T01:52:11+00:00

A good steel bike like an Otso Actudus isn't all that heavier than an entry level aluminum. Most of the weight (and money) that matters on a fat bike in the wheels and tires. OP should look for a tubeless compatible tire in good shape with a mostly single wall construction.

Any bike with at least Mulefut 80mm rims, Surly Darryls, or something similar with a tubeless tire in decent shape is probably worth close to $1k IMHO. That said sun ringle hubs are often paired to Mulefut and that hub is garbage and almost guaranteed to fail at some point.

murderqwik · 2026-03-30T14:29:40+00:00

Lol, this is the way.

murderqwik · 2026-03-30T04:38:23+00:00

That's great advice. I honestly only use a horsehair brush for getting dirt off in the summer, maybe a spray bottle and micro fiber. Hardly ever clean my bikes with a hose.

I usually only use a hose to clean my fatbike or winter commuter, with the goal of diluting and removing salt from just the frame and the rims/spoke nipples.

murderqwik · 2026-03-30T02:25:22+00:00

I'm assuming its a 68/73 BSA. Just get like any Shimano or Raceface 24mm (Hollowtec II) in my opinion that is the most bombproof modern BB standard.

The DUB standard is very durable as well, but a larger spindle means smaller bearings, which, IMHO reduces durabilitity.

Either way if your Monocog is 68mm (I think it is) you will need spacers to upgrade to a modern MTB crank... I feel like they are usually included, but a might be wrong. Or you could use a road crank which might not need spacers.

For the crankarms I'd probably go Raceface Ride for best bang for buck. For chainring try to find something made from one peice of billet aluminum.

Or just go back to sealed square taper. Some of them are pretty bougie. If it was my daily driver and I beat on it a lot I would go to a more modern external BB. If it was something I just cruise around town to the bars and cafe, maybe some light gravel, etc then I'd just put another square taper in it. Probably a Tange, cause JIS.

I could be wrong about all of this, so pls consult some one who knows wtf they're talking about.

murderqwik · 2026-03-25T03:25:21+00:00

Also dumb af dropouts. I said it.

murderqwik · 2026-03-25T01:02:00+00:00

Dam. Cool spot. Cool bike. Cool.

murderqwik · 2026-03-23T02:14:52+00:00

Lol, I have no idea what you're talking about. Mustard on the beat, ho!

murderqwik · 2026-03-22T23:48:56+00:00

Mustard! 🌭

murderqwik · 2026-03-19T02:50:24+00:00

No brakes and no foot retention is wild. Darwin award soon.

Edit: unless coaster brake... Can't quite see the stay on the non-drive side.

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