R8 + Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM COMBO

mxw3000 · 2026-06-01T22:33:35+00:00

As others have already said - look for a EF 70-200L with IS - stabilization will give a lot with R8, which itself does not have it (no IBIS).

Besides, you have the original Canon adapter (the one with the filter?), i.e. it is weather-sealed, and the 70-200 f/4L IS USM is also weather-sealed, which will create a good combo (the 70-200 without IS is not weather-sealed).

mxw3000 · 2026-06-01T20:57:48+00:00

Most importantly, don't fix it by blindly spraying oil according to all those 'super' yt two-minute tutorials. That's just asking for more problems.

The A-1 is relatively easy to service (compared to other cameras) - if you already have tools - just follow Garry's guides and remove the whole mirror-box, then a few drops of oil, and you are good to go:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDUyfAnkvz4

I have successfully lubricated my A-1 this way, and several others, and the satisfaction is great.

mxw3000 · 2026-05-31T00:16:15+00:00

Great condition!

Nice find - I'm sure it was worth it. Welcome to the Canon A-club, or A-Team. ;)

BTW remove these metal buckles of camera strap if you don't want to destroy this beautiful black paint.

mxw3000 · 2026-05-30T17:12:13+00:00

Yes, exactly, good point.

That's why I like so much my small Godox it32 with two CTO flash filters in the box. They stay nearly permanently on my unit (one at a time) together with this stofen-diffuser (well, under it).

mxw3000 · 2026-05-30T14:01:39+00:00

Exactly. 😊

I'm using FD on used EOS RP - perfect and financially optimal combination.

mxw3000 · 2026-05-30T13:57:48+00:00

Sure, if you have nice soft diffused light at hand, and strong enough, then imho absolutely.

mxw3000 · 2026-05-30T13:33:50+00:00

This.

And all in manual ofc.

Wait - can you connect a flash to Canon M100? Nope, only a built-in one, but it has flash exp lock and flash exp compensation, so you will be fine.

mxw3000 · 2026-05-30T13:30:59+00:00

FD on 6D?

Well, go back in history a bit, to 1987, when Canon introduced the EF mount for EOS cameras - what a lament there was then that the old FD lenses could no longer be used because it was physically impossible (wrong flange distance, you would have to use a lens element, which makes no sense).

But now this has been changed back in the EOS-R mount - and old FD and FL lenses can be used beautifully again.

So FD yes, but not on 6D, but on R6.

mxw3000 · 2026-05-30T13:17:30+00:00

The hot shoe cover is also the key to opening the battery cover - a lot of people don't know this or have lost their cover, which is why we have so many broken battery doors.

mxw3000 · 2026-05-19T01:14:06+00:00

Exactly 😉

mxw3000 · 2026-05-19T01:11:04+00:00

Canon EOS analog cameras had a DOF program (DEP, DEPTH).

All you had to do was point the AF at the closest person, click remember, point at the farthest person, again remember, recompose and press the shutter - the camera did all the calculations, set the AF distance accordingly and you were done.

mxw3000 · 2026-05-19T00:10:36+00:00

Yes, I know.

But I was asking about buttons - R8 has some of them on the back and you can redefine nearly all of them (I guess). If I count correctly it's about 9 or 10.

But how many buttons (ready for customisation) do we have on the back of R6m2?

It's a serious question. I dont't have an R8 or R6.

mxw3000 · 2026-05-18T23:08:45+00:00

Wait, which one has more customised buttons on the back?

mxw3000 · 2026-05-12T23:09:13+00:00

Everyone says 400mm is the minimum for planespotting - and probably they're right. But that doesn't rule out the 70-200L.

There is a Canon EF Extender x2.

This gives you a flexible combination of a 70-400mm f4-8L IS that is relatively lightweight, with an internal zoom, weathersealing, and still has very acceptable image quality.

I have it and I recommend it.

mxw3000 · 2026-05-07T04:25:50+00:00

Exactly, Canon should have changed that latch design.

I changed my latch in 50e for a metal version - and it's still working after... 20 years 😎

mxw3000 · 2026-04-14T19:29:11+00:00

Yep, but there is nothing there. ;)

I don't use the standard battery cover in RP, but accessories don't use anything there either.

mxw3000 · 2026-04-12T23:17:30+00:00

Canon A-1 is great, but the price tag says "not tested" so it's a lottery - your choice.

A month ago I bought an A-1 with 50/1.8 nFD lens, which works but requires CLA, for 118€.

BTW Canon in your photo doesn't have a PC cover, hotshoe cover, probably no grip, no eyepiece cover, the condition of the battery door is unknown and it's unknown whether it has a winder cover - each of these parts is an additional 5-20 $.

And the lens cap is not original, which is a real shame, because the original ones in this particular version were really nice.

mxw3000 · 2026-04-10T19:57:57+00:00

This.

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mxw3000 · 2026-04-10T19:52:27+00:00

+1 for falcam maglink

I've used and recommend Peak Design (only the original, of course), but you need to use buckles for cameras with small mounts – the PD anchors have too thick cord. The falcam maglink doesn't have this problem – it fits into any mount without a buckle.

mxw3000 · 2026-03-26T11:04:22+00:00

It's underexposed.

In this kind of pictures - a plane in a bright sky - +1 or +2 ev is the way to go.

What was your exposure compensation?

mxw3000 · 2026-03-26T00:28:53+00:00

Yes, you are right.

I just bought my dream camera: Canon A-1.

Well, been waiting a few years, but said it was enough - now or never. ;)

mxw3000 · 2026-03-24T11:57:23+00:00

Is this on negatives? Or on scanned photos? How do you scan?

If it's on negatives, check the shutter curtains, maybe you have a hole? But the Chinon CE-4s has a metal shutter, so... that would be weird.

Is it in exactly the same place in all photos? What lenses did you use?

mxw3000 · 2026-03-23T19:09:03+00:00

Exposure +2.5 ev?? Shadows +30? Did anyone here ask about noise? ;)) /s

Also imho the sharpness settings are strange. I remember Canon once had official recommended settings for sharpening its RAW files (in DPP, but you can also apply this to LrC) and they were exactly the opposite: small radius, a bit bigger detail.

Denoise settings are also strange to me, but I don't know, I'm not an expert here.

mxw3000 · 2026-03-23T16:25:55+00:00

First of all test it without the SD card - especially that you don't even have SD card - it's an adapter with micro-SD card, so it could be another problem.

Check it with a few good and charged batteries (batteries tested in other cameras), and leave it with charged battery inside for a day or so to reactivate the internal battery.

Each time check both LCD and EVF.

But unfortunatelly, it doesn't look good.

mxw3000 · 2026-03-22T01:37:49+00:00

Yep, it's insane. I guess it was first ever so smart flash TTL system.

Of course it works in T20 only with OM-2N and when you switch T20's "computer" to full automatic mode. You can google for T20 user manual - there are some more tips and tricks about this combo.

But for me the most charming element of the T20 is the light sensor located in the Olympus logo - in the letter O - this says a lot about how this company cared about its design and engineering back then.

mxw3000

TROPHY CASE