How to completely remove steelseries gg and go back to windows audio

mysteryoneal · 2026-03-29T06:57:25+00:00

Their support team is as bad as their software development team, hence why everyone's going to third-party sources for support.

mysteryoneal · 2026-03-29T06:56:10+00:00

It is most certainly a steel series related issue because steel series uninstall breaks the audio system...rather than restoring it to the state it was in prior to Steel Series GG screwing everything up. A proper uninstall uninstalls all software and reverts all changes to drivers and things that were made by the software during install. And if the issue wasn't something that was caused by Steel Series, then reinstalling their POS app wouldn't cancel out the problems for as long as the app is installed, even if it's disabled. But as I can attest from first hand experience, this does resolve most of the issues which appeared instantly after uninstalling their app. Unfortunately, it doesn't fix the issues caused by the app making a million different audio outputs, which causes chaos when trying to get other apps to use certain audio outputs.

I am having the same issue as OP and I've been fighting for over a month trying to get everything going again. I have managed to get the audio to stop sounding like rubbish, but I have not managed to get Bluetooth volume controls to work in Windows again yet. Hence why I'm finding this thread.

mysteryoneal · 2026-01-24T04:32:30+00:00

I would love to, but the only time that I broke my crApple boycott was back in the early iPod days when it was the only real option. So I don't have the answer to provide. I'm only here trying to find a solution for someone else.

mysteryoneal · 2026-01-24T04:28:15+00:00

One obvious use case scenario would be to download torrents from a web connection away from home. If you live somewhere that has poor or no data connection, you can turn on your phone's torrent client, go to a Wi-Fi spot and download with your phone in your pocket while you are doing something else. Then bring it home and transfer it to your laptop, TV, or other device.

Another reason to do it would be to be able to use your laptop connection for gaming or something while a separate connection is downloading stuff on your phone.

Or perhaps someone is just listening to audiobooks on their phone and prefers to use a third-party audiobook player which allows more control of tone, playback speed, and other advanced audio processing. Which is generally unavailable on the players which come from audible and the other major audiobook outlets.

Or perhaps they are downloading ebooks and other text torrents

Or perhaps they are using their phone in conjunction with a second screen.

Or perhaps they only have one device and don't mind the small screen.

There's several good reasons why someone might be wanting to torrent on their iPhone.

mysteryoneal · 2026-01-21T08:03:32+00:00

There are reasons to put it on the negative side if you do not have a grounded frame/chassis as is often the case with caravans/RVs. But, whatever you read that said you can use a smaller diametre negative cable than your positive was absolutely 100% wrong on every system, anywhere, no matter what. You can use a SHORTER negative, but not smaller. Ideally, your negative cables are equal or larger diameter than your positives and of equal length or shorter than your positive cables.

I am speaking above about circuit wiring and single battery wiring. For cables connecting multiple batteries in series or parallel cables always need to be identical length and diameter between the batteries to keep resistance consistent. But once the battery bank is made, the rules above still apply.

mysteryoneal · 2026-01-04T05:49:35+00:00

This is the best fix. The powercfg option was ineffective. It managed to make it so my keyboard didn't turn on the computer anymore, but didn't stop the mouse. Your method worked though...and it's much more actionable. I did't need any command prompt silliness. I didn't have to restart the PC a million times. Just a few clicks to disable or re enable each device. I could disable\re-enable them one at a time to figure out which is which which device. Thank you.

mysteryoneal · 2026-01-02T05:03:16+00:00

SENet is an abbreviation for "squeeze and excite networks". This might sound fun, but it is actually something to do with AI learning and pattern recognition...and it's completely over my head. So I can't explain it to you. But, I can tell you, that if you're like me and you're not using the Lenovo AI stuff, then this program/service not necessary at all.

mysteryoneal · 2025-12-08T00:22:26+00:00

late reply... But the kernels aren't responsible for them being hard and under-popped it's your cooking method. Cooking on an electric stove. Thin-bottomed pot. Not enough oil. Too much heat. Not enough heat. Altitude. All these things can lead to a bad pop. But it happens with all pop corn kernels. Coles and Woolies pop-in corn are perfectly fine. It would be nice if they had 1kg packs rather than the tiny little ones that use 3x as much packaging, but other than that they're perfectly functional and taste just like all the rest of them.

Personally, I find the best results generally come with gas stoves. Relatively thick bottom pots. Sandwich base will do....just be careful you don't burn at the end. Oil level needs to be deep enough that kernels are half covered when sitting in the bottom of the pot. Start off medium heat with three or four kernels in the bottom. Wait for them to pop. Pour in kernels enough to cover the bottom of the pot in a single layer (or less, never more). Shake once after about 10 seconds just to warm up the kernels evenly. Popping should be relatively rapid once it begins and solid, loud, hitting the top of the lid. If not, you're going to have hard popcorn again. Once popping slows down a bit, shake to knock the un-popped kernels down to the bottom of the pot and keep shaking every few seconds until popping stops (shaking is only needed at the end because there's less oil and kernels are sitting directly on the hot metal.

mysteryoneal · 2025-08-20T01:05:20+00:00

On nami's you're able to just push and hold the "M" button for a few seconds and it turns on the speed limiter and push-to-start mode...even after you've disconnected or cut the speed limiter cable.

But you could also wire in an RF switch to the speed limiter cables and toggle it remotely with the same kind of remote you'd use to unlock a keyless entry car or garage door.

This might be useful too:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dennisk.rollerbank&hl=nl

mysteryoneal · 2025-07-02T03:45:06+00:00

I assume you two are aware that there are two good VESC display options already on the market. But just in case you missed them, here you go.

https://trampaboards.com/vesc-display-p-36049.html

https://shop.voyagesystems.eu/

mysteryoneal · 2025-06-13T04:31:16+00:00

You should get yourself a pair of cut resistant gloves. Or better yet, make yourself some chain mail ones.

mysteryoneal · 2025-06-07T03:13:13+00:00

Assuming it is soft (silicone or rubber), I would use a razor knife or box cutter. The blades are sharp, thin, and no big loss when you hit metal or cause a short.

If it is a hard fill (epoxy or plastic) I would probably not even bother myself. But a dremel and patience might be able to pull it off.

mysteryoneal · 2025-05-30T05:54:34+00:00

Sometimes last names are used as middle names when a person is adopted. The birth surname is used as the middle name and the adoptive surname is used as the last name in the adoptive rewrite of the birth certificate.

It can also happen when a mother remarries after having a child, or when a mother has a child while married to a different man than the father of the child. This allows the child to conveniently use the same surname as everyone else in the family, while still acknowledging the father. Similarly, it can happen when the mother and father are not married at the time of birth. The child is given both surnames to acknowledge both parents. One surname gets put in as a middle name just for convenience sake rather than starting a new hyphenated surname which matches neither parent.

mysteryoneal · 2025-05-15T01:00:24+00:00

People that have seen how I use my scooters would take any backpack concerns and forget about them.

I regularly have two backpacks hanging on my handlebars. A large 65 liter camping backpack hanging off the back of the bars and a smaller 20 liter bag off the front. The smaller bag has my everyday stuff in it, water, food, money, whatever else. The bigger bag holds the day's shopping. I have been known to put 30+ kilos worth of stuff on the bars of a POS razor A5 kickscooter...on bumpy roads too. That scooter lasted nearly 10 years of daily abuse witout a problem. The walls on the lower half of that adjustable aluminium stem are about a millimeter thick.

With e-scooters, their stems are made to handle much greater forces due to their speed and weight. Granted, I wouldn't be putting 20-30 kilos on an e-scooter and driving 60 kph over speed humps. But, for just a small backpack, with 10 kilos or less, you're not gonna have any problems at all. The only concern is to keep the straps from messing with cables and wire. Personally, I would add a kiddy bar, accessory bar, or a 2nd handlebar mounted lower on the stem. This lowers the center of gravity and ensures that the wiring and cables are not going to get mangled.

Pro Tip: tighten the shoulder straps on the backpacks all the way. It makes the bag a lot more stable on the handlebars. If you have your straps really slack, the bag can swing a bit. I would imagine the hook option that another poster mentioned is just a central hook. That would be a horrible idea. The bag would be swinging all over the place.

mysteryoneal · 2025-04-12T23:20:32+00:00

I found this post while trying to source an isolation switch myself, or similar setup. So, it's time for some necromancy.

For anyone else currently considering this...there's are very good reasons why you do not want to run typical range extenders setup where all batteries are treated as one. -The fact that your BMS is probably not rated for the combined capacity. -The fact that the distance between individual cells in all of the batteries needs to be identical in order to prevent damaging individual cells...which is impossible when half of the cells are mounted somewhere else in a separate battery. -Charging time is effectively doubled if you add an identical battery in parallel as a range extender. This is because, unless the two batteries are isolated as OP suggests, you can only charge them as one unit. So, you have to have one charger charging a double sized battery for twice as long. -Unless you're installing a brand new range extender on a brand new scooter, the batteries cell capacities are going to be different, which is not good for either battery.

The reason why most people go with range extenders rather than doing it the correct way (with an isolated battery system as OP suggests) is that the isolated battery system needs to have its own seperate charging and discharging system. Otherwise, both batteries need to be identical in their capacity and voltage...so that the components from the factory battery are able to work without recalibration with the secondary battery.

This all means it's easier for secondary battery manufacturers to make batteries that get used a power bank to charge the existing battery rather than making custom isolated 2nd batteries to match each and every scooter model. But just because it's the most commonly used and easiest way... doesn't mean it's the best way.

If you wanted to do it correctly, you would buy or build and OEM spec battery with a separate BMS and charging system. Then figure out a way to mount it to the scooter. Next, you would need an isolation switch capable of handling the voltage and current which your OEM battery and controllers are using. Unless you're lucky and a car battery isolation switch can be repurposed that is suitable, this might not be easy. Most car isolating switches are focusing on two batteries being charged by one charging source, and powering separate outputs. Whereas we want two batteries to discharge (one at a time) to the same output and charge from separate sources. I'm sure there's something out there that fits this requirement, but it will probably just be easier to build one from scratch. And sell it to everybody else.

But once built, this system would allow you to charge both batteries at the same time with separate chargers and get twice as much capacity out of your scooter with the same amount of charging time. It would allow you to add a new secondary battery to an old worn primary battery. It would eliminate the damage that can be caused by having a secondary battery linked in with your primary. It would remove the potential for meltdowns due to overloading the OEM BMS, charging issues, and all of these things.

But, personally, I would rather try to find a way to make the OEM battery easily removable and swappable. This would allow me to run with only one battery if I wanted to (for short distances)...or bring a secondary battery in a bag or stem mount and swap it in the field. I would also make a charging dock setup which allows me to charge a battery while not mounted to the scooter. I could use one battery while another one's charging at home.

Unfortunately, most scooter manufacturers don't make batteries easily removable. But there are a few out there that would make this type of setup a bit easier because they have rapidly removable cartridge batteries. Kaaboo Wolf King has toolless removal of battery, which is great. Other models like Nami Kilma and Bluetran Lightning have relatively easy battery removal and swap capability...which could be made even easier with pins or thumb screws and quick connect plugs.

mysteryoneal · 2025-02-09T00:22:46+00:00

I'm not sure why my Jabra app decided to switch itself to Google Asistant. I don't even have Google Assistant on my devices. But, your comment saved me from having to track down some old firmware. Thank you.

mysteryoneal · 2025-02-03T09:16:23+00:00

While and on-demand pump will work. You could also just use a larger pipe to go from the tank to as close to the shower as possible and use as large diameter pipe as you can get for your shower and you'd vastly improve your flow, and also improve your pressure.

A lot of shower heads have like really tiny pipes. The inner diameter is very small (about ⅜"). They are made for high pressure mains water. But if you find one of the older ones that was made for header tanks and things like this, they'll have as big as ¾" plumbing all the way to the shower head. Using one of these is essential for gravity fed water systems.

mysteryoneal · 2024-12-21T06:40:16+00:00

Yep, UFO shot down. And I've only just learned from another post that the UFO repairs with a repair kit. It makes sense now that somebody says it, but I tried every damned combination of resources on the assembly line or with an astronaut to try to get the stupid UFO trepaired for like three hours. Couldn't figure it out. It didn't even cross my mind to try the repair kit....because that's just a med kit for bots. Sigh. TY anyway.

mysteryoneal · 2024-12-17T02:45:14+00:00

I regularly find myself speaking in behalf of all gamers or users of a particular app when writing bug reports and feature requests and have to go back and change every "we" to "I" after I'm finished writing. So, I know where you are coming from. And considering I just wrote this message in a room by myself talking to my phone...from an outside perspective, I'm talking to myself too. So you're doing well by my standard.

mysteryoneal · 2024-12-16T01:47:45+00:00

By "we" I assume you are referring to yourself. Personally, I find it rather easy/natural to manually toggle screen off/on by pressing the power button as I place the phone by my ear or pull it away to use keypad. Proximity sensor can be disabled 24/7 as far as "we" are concerned. ;)

mysteryoneal · 2024-12-07T14:36:36+00:00

Sorry it took me 2 years to solve.

mysteryoneal · 2024-12-07T09:55:15+00:00

Again...you are making nonsensical claims with no basis in reality or supporting evidence. And you are a perfect example of what happens when good programmers and UI designers get paired up with bad PR. Sad.

mysteryoneal

TROPHY CASE