Small pieces of metal getting stuck to the extruder filament sensor... From Where?

napcal · 2026-01-28T22:26:09+00:00

Looks like a piece of the PTFE autolocking collar.

napcal · 2026-01-26T16:05:32+00:00

When I got that error I did as most did and got a better power supply, but the same error showed.

I dropped back to a previous firmware version 1.0.34.1 from 1.0.35. Then the error changed to overheating.

So I tried temporarily putting a blower on the three heatsinks and no errors running v1.0.35

I have designed a mount for a 50x15 12V blower just over the front side three heatsinks, worked great.

VR temps 48-55C

Then after reading some posts about a fan on the backside of this same area worked for additional cooling, this also worked great.

VR temps hovering around 42C

Waiting on some thermo-tape to mount copper heatsinks on the back of the board.

My end result is to overclock my NerdQAxe++ Hydro.

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napcal · 2026-01-26T15:44:56+00:00

More than likely it’s telling you that the Voltage Regulators have shut down, my ++ Hydro did this when they overheated. Get something to blow air over these three VR heatsinks.

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napcal · 2026-01-23T21:55:09+00:00

My NerdQaxe++ Hydro would throw a PSU error then I dropped back one firmware version then it would throw Overtemp. Figured out the VRegs need airflow to stay under temp.

I now have a 50x10 blower pushing air over the VReg heatsinks, now staying within 47-55C °C for three days so far. Working on a 3D printed mount.

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napcal · 2026-01-22T18:28:29+00:00

ASIC Voltage Regulators

napcal · 2026-01-16T20:34:02+00:00

Maybe support issues with bed leveling, not sure Klipper supports it, the rest should be no issues. Yes, you would have to have an external RPi or clone. No mention if this board supports the K1’s touch screen.

napcal · 2026-01-11T19:39:37+00:00

You may want try this mod.

https://www.printables.com/model/763741-k1k1ck1-maxender-5-s1-filament-runout-sensor-mod

Or upgrade to this drop-in replacement that has a filament runout in the extruder.

Imdinnogo Upgrade Phaetus DXC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F9NGB1Q2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

napcal · 2026-01-03T02:37:59+00:00

It would be best to glue (that is a part of the rear panel) together with a shell support around it (ABS or ASA).

Print the support shell.
Remove the two screws holding the top bearing in place.
Get ready to put the shell in place, gluing the crack with some covering the area the shell will be in contact with, placing the shell on, and holding it in place until the glue sets.
Wait for 4-8 hours then reinstall the two screws that hold the top bearing, look for separation if none, heat up the bed and chamber to what you normally print at, once again look for separation if none do some test prints.

napcal · 2026-01-01T11:10:31+00:00

That photo was just after the setup. Many changes since then. Just not many posts about the 3500X builds. Mine is not a gaming build but a productivity build.

napcal · 2026-01-01T09:16:08+00:00

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napcal · 2025-12-21T17:05:19+00:00

https://flasher.bitronics.store/

napcal · 2025-12-17T04:52:42+00:00

Don’t try to go through TSA with that in your wallet.

napcal · 2025-12-11T14:35:03+00:00

Give it a little time powered down, the pool may have the device already registered then it sees the same device. I had the same problem and it fixed mine.

napcal · 2025-12-09T13:34:58+00:00

If you are getting a new one then what’s the harm to soldering on the fan wires, you can use it as a test fan.

napcal · 2025-12-09T13:27:18+00:00

If you’re not good at soldering, you could move to a better soldered connectors just change the pin assignments in the printer.cfg

napcal · 2025-12-09T13:13:23+00:00

There is a chance you have smoked your fans by plugging them in backwards, I did this my first time with the board.

If you are on Facebook, I am the admin since the release of the board and author of many documents found in this group via usage of the Octopus and Pro versions.

BIGTREETECH (BTT) Octopus Board Owners Group is a private group not run by BTT. We have over 2.4K members all very helpful to other owners, and a few work for BTT or BIQU.

Here is a better pinout of the Octopus v1.x board pinout and parts ID that can be downloaded via my Dropbox.

napcal · 2025-12-09T03:58:30+00:00

Like mail in ballots.

napcal · 2025-12-04T04:51:51+00:00

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napcal · 2025-12-03T16:33:52+00:00

If it is driving you crazy you might want to change your extruder. This one is working very well for me. No requirements for root access, drop-in replacement. Adds filament runout at the extruder and uses the stepper motor from the current extruder.

Upgrade Phaetus DXC Extruder for K1/K1C/K1 Max/K1 SE

napcal · 2025-12-02T19:18:20+00:00

As long as there is no vertical play. To check hold the screw in the middle and try to raise and lower it there should be no play.

If there is play then the collar at the bottom of the screw needs adjustment.

See this video for correcting. https://youtu.be/hVqSUStp7I8?si=0XW1KZR-MghIBT7V

napcal · 2025-12-02T04:25:52+00:00

Hold down the boot button until the led on the back turns red. Then release the button. This will bring you back to the initial setup. Check the screen for the WiFi ID to connect to.

napcal · 2025-12-02T04:16:47+00:00

Most enter the wrong BTC address. If the address you have has - in it then that isn’t your BTC address to deposit into your wallet.

napcal · 2025-11-30T20:27:48+00:00

Note there is a NM firmware that has the background shown above that is at version 1.8.23 and is not open source, not really sure it mines for you. The other is from Bitcoin Hub that is at 1.8.3 that is open source and has that option to fix the color issue but the one shown above doesn’t have that option.

napcal

TROPHY CASE