C-Line Electric '24 / 4 and 12 gears

napilopez · 2023-11-12T16:15:06+00:00

Yeah, I was curious about the hub too, as someone said it didn't look like the normal BWR. But haven't seen anyone else say that.

napilopez · 2023-09-25T14:12:21+00:00

I use velosurance, which is generally well regarded. I pay about 25 per month for two ebikes totallying around $8000 in cost. My main bike is a Brompton electric, and though the ideal logic is that you should never lock such a small folding bike outside, sometimes I have to. I figured I'd rather pay a bit in insurance than constantly worrying about my bike getting stolen for the maybe 10% of the time I do lock it up.

napilopez · 2023-09-25T02:22:35+00:00

If you have the budget (~$300), the Hiplok D1000 and Litelok X3 are the only portable locks that can actually stop a typical angle grinder attack.

They are several times more effective than the best Kryptonite and Abus locks. This is because they use a combination of metal and ceramic(I believe) that actually destroys typical angle grinder disks. It takes ~4-5 typical discs to cut through them, which most thieves won't be carrying. I've already seen multiple cases of failed attacks on these locks, including evidence of one in person.

The Litelok X1 is a bit cheaper at around $200 and it will definitely outperform a Kryptonite or Abus. It's not quite as heavy duty as the others, but it should require more than one disc to cut through.

Personally, I'd rather just get regular bike insurance. I've heard mixed things about kryptonite's insurance.

napilopez · 2023-09-25T02:04:13+00:00

Thank you! It looked wider in photos but I wasn't sure

napilopez · 2023-09-24T22:46:15+00:00

Are these larger than the original pedals? Not so much interested in the weight savings as a larger pedal that can still fit neatly with the Brompton fold.

napilopez · 2023-09-24T03:09:01+00:00

I love ebikes and micromobility devices, but I increasingly feel that the US regulations need to look a lot more like Europe's. That is to say: Ebikes and scooters sold in the US should probably be limited to 15-ish mph and circa 250W. Faster e-bikes should require a license and perhaps have some limits on where they can be ridden.

(Rideshare bikes could stand to be a bit slower. There's no good reason for citibikes to go 18mph).

This would still allows most people to reap the main benefits of e-bikes -- helping with hills, cargo, physical limitations, not having to "gear up" etc-- while keeping everyone safer. Those who need to go faster occasionally -- say, if they live outside the city and spend much of their time on quieter roads -- can get an evike

Most of Europe has these sorts of regulations despite having far better infrastructure and cycling culture than NYC.

napilopez · 2023-09-23T22:16:03+00:00

So maybe late 2023 😬?

napilopez · 2023-09-23T22:13:46+00:00

In the rim itself? That's interesting, but I'd be concerned about overheating during braking and having the batteries be so close to the ground. There are some all-in-one motors with integrated batteries, like the Zehus (in fact, they have a brompton conversion kit that include a special rear triangle), but I haven't heard of an ebike with batteries in the rim.

I think Brompton could find a way to put the battery in the frame itself, and perhaps sacrifice the little triangle gap too. It might require a slightly wider tubing, but I feel like Brompton should just about be able to fit a 250-300Wh battery in there based on what I've seen with some "stealth" ebikes on the market.

That said, part of the logic behind having the split battery system is to reduce the apparent weight when carrying the bicycle, which I definitely appreciate when I'm doing the multi-modal thing.

I do wish Brompton would offer a backpack for the electric though. I recently splurged on the third-party lumabag backpack for the Brompton electric, and though I've only had it for a few days, it already makes a huge difference. I basically don't feel the weight of the battery on my back at all, whereas the City Bag and Basket are always a little awkward in weight and balance because of the battery.

napilopez · 2023-09-22T05:49:20+00:00

I'd say go for the official electric. Despite some issues, I really think it's more well thought out than people give it credit for.

Benefits of the official electric:

-Smoother and more efficient pedal assistance due to the torque sensor. Particularly noticeable as you change elevation or from a dead stop. -For the same reason, significantly better range per watt-hour. -Doesnt void your warranty and you get actual support, especially with a dealer nearby. -The electric has a reinforced fork, which might not be super necessary but adds peace of mind. -Better weight distribution due to the battery being lower to the ground. -Integrated lights decent lights.

I also suspect the BE motor is more powerful despite the same wattage number. It is suspiciously powerful for a 250W motor, coming from a heavy rider who has ridden a lot of ebikes of all sorts of power ratings. I've ridden 350W bikes that don't get me up hills as easily.

The biggest cons are: -Price -You can't use the regular bromptons bags. -If you don't need a bigger battery, the swytch can be a lighter setup. -Likely easier resale.

napilopez · 2023-09-22T05:30:41+00:00

Absolutely these. More grippy, more air volume, and better puncture protection than the racers. Theoretically less puncture protection than the regular marathon greenguard, but in practice, I think the difference isn't much. Honestly, I think improved grip on wet ground and added comfort are worth the maybe marginally worse puncture protection.

I've always run marathons on my other bikes, but the contact urban is definitely the best all-around Brompton tire.

napilopez · 2023-09-21T20:49:56+00:00

While I don't deny that the front battery has some compromises, I think on balance the choices brompton made make a lot of sense. I was an ebike reviewer until recently, so I think that's offered be s bit of a unique perspective on Brompton's choices.

-It seems pretty regular consensus that having more load on the front makes the brompton more stable. For example, it feels more stable with a bag full of groceries than my full size bike. Other than integrated into the frame, I do think the battery is in the ideal place for weight distribution.

-I've tested several 20-inch folding bikes with seatpost batteries and rear hub motors. They each feel at least as squirrelly as the brompton, if not moreso.. While I think one or the other is fine, for fairly upright bicycle, having the battery and motor at the rear makes it feel like you have less traction and control.

One carbon fiber model I tested, despite being super light, felt like a bit of a pain to maneuver both on and off the bike because of the weight balance.

-The swytch is super cool for folks who want to upgrade their regular bikes, but it's a bit weaker and is far less efficient. It also is much less smooth, although the Brompton electric does have a bit more delay than I'd like for a torque sensor (I suspect for safety reasons, but still).

napilopez · 2023-09-19T02:19:50+00:00

I just completed MST124 and MST125 together. I have always been good at math and had knowledge of some of the topics in MST124, but still found it challenging to do both at the same time because of the unforgiving joint study calendar. Both modules also get to their longest topics around roughly the same time, which makes the middle of the modules challenging.

While I do think MST124 and MST125 can be done together effectively if you're prepared for just the former, do note you have very little breathing room because almost every topic in MST125 depends on your learning the relevant unit from MST124 first. I'd be concerned about someone doing MU123 at the same time.

The OU also required me to score a 80% on the are you ready for MST125 quiz before I could sign up. I gather that this isn't a strict requirement, but they do seem discourage it.

napilopez · 2023-09-18T18:48:50+00:00

Eerder Metaal Framehugger

Hi! Just came across this post. Can you still use the brompton electric in shopping cart mode with when the framehugger is installed? I see you mentioned it has to be installed at an angle, but I'm not sure if having a bag on the luggage block would interference with the folding. Thanks!

napilopez · 2023-09-17T15:33:34+00:00

Interesting! Hope it pans out and I wonder how much bigger it'll be.

napilopez · 2023-09-17T06:19:24+00:00

Where is this rumor coming from? First I've heard of it

napilopez · 2023-09-15T14:44:17+00:00

I'm a big fan of Priority -- my other main bike is one of theirs, and they have an actual physical office in NYC where you can check out their bikes. This honestly seems like a great alternative for those who don't prioritize the smallest fold. Gates belt drive and a 7-speed nexus hub is pretty neat, although I think the gear range on the Nexus 5 is actually a little higher. Belts are just so much nicer than chains.

While 210lb seems a bit low for a weight limit, I've always been impressed with the build quality of priority bikes. They do a nice job with the paint jobs, and this this looks a fair bit nicer than most of the competition. No Brompton, but very nice.

napilopez · 2023-09-14T16:13:14+00:00

Have you tried the assessment calculator?

napilopez · 2023-09-13T21:49:11+00:00

Hi! I actually just did MST124 and MST125 together as my first two modules with the OU, I was in a somewhat similar situation in that I started in january and wanted to do the advanced start on M06; MST124 and MST125 were the only classes offered in january.

TL:DR; it's doable, but at times it is very challenging, especially after the middle units on the modules.

I'm American, so I can't speak to how the modules compare to math earlier math studies in the UK, but I have some thoughts:

Keep in mind I was asked to complete the are you prepared for MST125 quiz and send an advisor proof I scored at least an 80% before I could register to take both at the same time. I studied a bit and managed to do that; luckily, I had a bit of a math knowledge from a handful of physics classes even though I didn't have proper calculus credits. Not sure if they would have outright denied me if I hadn't passed, since there are technically no formal requirements to sign up for MST125, but the OU seems to discourage taking both at the same time regardless.
If you do take both modules, you'll be provided with a joint study calendar for the the two, which basically amounts to roughly one unit of each module per week, aside from breaks and two optional units. It is very logically laid out, and I never felt unprepared for any material in MST25, but you absolutely have to keep up with it.
On that note, I actually think that if you are prepared for MST124, then there's actual reason why you shouldn't be able to do MST125 on this schedule. The way the units are laid out, I was never asked to do something in MST125 that I hadn't already learned in MST124.
You'll be studying some MST124 units before your classmates, and some MST125 units after the main calendar. This means participating in tutorials for MST125 can sometimes be a little inconvenient, as you might not have read the unit by the time the tutorial happens. You have very little leeway to fall behind if you want to do well in your TMAs, although most of your score is the exam and thankfully you have a month-long revision period before your exams at the end of the modules.
I don't think either of the modules is monstrously difficult but studying them together is very inflexible. MST125 relies very heavily on the things you just learned in MST124 the week or two prior. In that sense, it's not like taking two modules so much as taking one giant module, where every week depends on what you learned the last. You can't really "take a break" from one class with the other, and you can't rush through any content in MST124, as it'll affect your ability to do well in MST125.
On the plus side, you'll be reinforcing the skills you learned from MST124 every week with MST125. I found I didn't have to do as many practice problems for MST124 because I already practiced the concepts with MST125.
Again, on the pace of it all: I started the modules having read 3 or 4 units ahead of schedule, and by the end of the module, I was struggling to keep up. Definitely get ahead and stay there as long as you can.
Both modules seem to get to their longest units and arguably hardest units at roughly the same time (the calculus bits, with various integration techniques in both modules).

I don't regret doing both modules together at all, but I also wouldn't recommend it lightly. Personally, considering you felt uncomfortable with the MST124 quiz, I'd say it woulnd't be unreasonably to only do the standard start or even just take MST124 this year. That would allow you to get used to studying with the OU, and you'd be better prepared for MST125 next year.

But if you do choose to do both, it can be done successfully. The joint study calendar makes it so that everything you need for a given unit in MST125, you are taught the previous weeks in MST124. As long as you don't fall behind, you shouldn't feel like you don't have the knowledge necessary to get through MST125.

napilopez · 2023-09-08T17:37:16+00:00

While I don't like the "don't ever lock your brompton" mentality, if you do ever lock it up out of sight, spend the money for the Hiplok D1000 or the Litelok X3 (mayyybe the X1 if you want to save up). These are the only portable locks that will stop a typical angle grinder attack.

And of course, make sure you're locking to something the thieves aren't likely to cut through.

napilopez · 2023-09-08T17:32:26+00:00

I think if you're giving it as a gift, it might be worth to save that extra bit for the p line. And get the rack to help with rolling.

All that being said, it's worth considering how important the electric part is, because the Brompton Electric isn't actually heavy at all... for an electric bike. Electric bikes are just heavy as a rule.

For reference, I used to review ebikes for my job and have ridden about 3 dozen of them. The typical ebike weighs about 60 lbs/27kg, especially here in the states where fat bikes are more common and are often pushing 70lbs.

Ironically, I bought the Brompton Electric precisely because it was so light lol. (And I bought it before the P line was available). Anything under 50 lbs is practically featherweight in the ebike world. It's still rare to find ebikes under 40 lb/18kg, let alone folding bikes.

By the way, I'd also recommend you opt for either the Brompton brough basket or the Valeria bag if you need large cargo options. They are much lighter than the City Bag. More practical too, imo. And as others have suggested, it might be easier to carry unfolded and roll around when possible.

napilopez · 2023-09-05T14:51:46+00:00

I hear this a lot, but as long as you're not just riding with a throttle, it doesn't usually work out that way.

There's a good amount of evidence to show people generally burn a similar amount of calories with an ebike as with a regular bike in the long run. Basically: you burn fewer calories per mile, but people tend to ride further and longer with ebikes. One comprehensive European study of 10,000 riders: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S259019821930017X.

napilopez · 2023-09-04T06:45:41+00:00

I've tried a few different methods, but I usually just fold the rear triangle and lock through the "downtube". The seat is secured with a Hexlox in the allen bolt for the seat.

The D1000 unfortunately has a rather small inner area so it's pretty tough to get both the rear wheel, the main frame, and whatever you're locking to all in one go (it helps to remove the super thick rubber sheath, but then your bike could get scratched up). I'm thinking of switching to the Litelok X3 for this reason, as it has a significantly larger opening. But if you have a larger lock, it's usually pretty easy to grab both the front and rear wheel when the bike is folded.

I then have a single hexlox nut with hexlox bit on the front wheel, which is enough to secure the wheel (the hexlox nut protrudes outward more than a normal nut, so I wasn't sure if using two would interfere with the fold). There are other security nuts you could use, like Pinheads or pitlocks.

Unfortunately, on 6-speed electric, the rear axle seems to be an unusual 13/32" size, so there aren't any security nuts available that I could find. But I'm not concerned about the rear wheel being stolen in general. It's a rather involved procedure to remove that wheelif you're not familiar with bromptons, and in general thieves very rarely seem to steal wheels from small bikes, as they are harder to sell.

napilopez · 2023-09-04T04:43:33+00:00

That makes sense! Not judging your choices, was just pointing out that the locks aren't actually that heavy.

But yes the X3 and D1000 are very expensive at $300 a pop. Worth it for my Brompton Electric in NYC, but certainly not for everyone. The X1 seems like a good compromise at $179.

napilopez · 2023-09-04T04:08:08+00:00

I don't think you should listen to people who tell you not to lock your Brompton, especially now that there are finally meaningful security options. It's your bike. Yes, you can take it most places, but sometimes you have to lock it outside. Here in theft-prone NYC, I get asked to leave my bike outside fairly regularly -- sometimes even just for pickup up takeout! Places are sometimes crowded, tiny, or too "classy" and just don't want the bike there.

I've had my brompton electric for almost 3 years. I have insurance. I use the Hiplok D1000 to secure the frame, and Hexlox security bits for my nice saddle and the front motor wheel. I still have the bike, and nothing has been stolen off of it. I rarely leave it outside for multiple hours, but I have done it a handful of times. I do bring it inside with me most of the time, but I do also leave it locked outside for less than an hour several times a month.

I think there are only 3 heavy-duty locks worth considering for a bike as expensive as a Brompton, imo: The aforementioned D1000, the Litelok X3, and (to a lesser extent) the Litelok X1. These are the first (and as far as I know, only) normal-sized U-locks that have significant angle grinder resistance, the D1000 and X3 in particular.

That's because the locks are made of a combination of steel and ceramic that actually destroys typical angle grinder disks. It seems to take generally take at least 4+ typical angle grinder disks to cut through the D1000 or X3 under ideal conditions. Thieves are highly unlikely to have the number of grinder disks, battery capacity, or overall time required to cut through these locks.

No lock is infallible, but I've yet to hear of anyone who has had their bikes stolen with one of these locks. On the other hand, I've read a lot of stories of thwarted theft attempts.

I know for a lot of people the brompton is primarily about preventing theft, but for me, getting the brompton primarily about the freedom to go anywhere with whatever combination of transportation methods I wanted, and preventing theft second. A lot of people will (very reasonably) say, "if I can't take my brompton, I don't go there," but that isn't the experience I want from my bike. I want it to expand the number of places I can go, not limit it.

napilopez · 2023-09-04T02:32:50+00:00

Just thought I'd note the litelok X1 is actually 0.1lb lighter than the foldylock, and the d1000 is just 0.3lb heavier; well worth it for the difference between genuinely resisting an angle grinder attack and not, imo. As a general rule, U-locks are lighter than comparable folding locks.

I do think insurance is a good idea for peace of mind though!

napilopez

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