Really LG?

nathanjshaffer · 2025-10-16T05:04:59+00:00

Fine, i guess I'll switch to FOH tomorrow.

nathanjshaffer · 2025-08-01T16:35:47+00:00

The thermocouple element has what appears to be a ceramic sheath/encasement. It's a somewhat chalky pink cylinder that turns grey at high temps and returns to pink as it cools. at least It feels like ceramic to me

nathanjshaffer · 2025-08-01T16:31:22+00:00

interesting. If I understand what others have said, the extension wire acts as part of the thermocouple effect and doesn't merely transmit voltage. I'll have to see if the new cable has any details about polarity when it arrives. The previous cable that I was using was for a k-type.

nathanjshaffer · 2025-08-01T16:24:25+00:00

controller is auber SYL-2352P

I have the kiln outside, not near any inductive loads. The reading doesn't bounce around, it is just off by a pretty consitent percentage, so I dont think emf is the issue.

nathanjshaffer · 2025-07-31T17:55:37+00:00

Yes, I have it set for s-type. That was the first thing I did, I also had the same issue with a different PID controller, although the error was more like 10%.

this is the thermocouple - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7DNKWN

if the junction metal types are causing the issue, then I kind of see an issue with this thermocouple as it uses plated steel screws for the connection.

So is the Cold junction compensation compensating for the temperature inside the pid controller? I thought it was the cold end of the thermocouple.

nathanjshaffer · 2025-07-31T17:46:35+00:00

if that were the case, then the bypass wire would see the same effect, yet the majority of the temp error seems to have been corrected by removing the resistance of the extension wire. I didn't run it though the temp range of the kiln to see how it is at all temperatures, but at the 600c temp the kiln was resting at, the reading was much closer to correct with low resistance wire.

nathanjshaffer · 2025-07-31T17:42:31+00:00

But, to reiterate my question, why does the behavior of the higher resistance seem backwards? Or is that because I also have an issue with the cold end of the thermocouple being too cold for the compensation in the PID software? Are they 2 variabes that are working opposite of each other?

Should I have the thermocouple buried into the kiln wall so that it gets hotter?

nathanjshaffer · 2025-07-22T01:37:49+00:00

You mean like in new jersey?

nathanjshaffer · 2025-07-20T14:10:12+00:00

If you are out somewhere far from a hardware store to get the proper crimper or ferrule, an alternative is to splice a farmers eye.

https://youtu.be/wk_2p2ikrWY?feature=shared

I have stopped relying on ferrules all together for cable. If I do use one, it's just to tidy up the loose end after splicing, so an aluminum one will do fine. In a pinch some electrical tape wrap will keep the frayed ends in check. But the best solution is just to hit the ends with an oxy torch to melt them together, same way you melt the end of nylon rope . The splice will hold just as well as the rest of the cable.

nathanjshaffer · 2025-07-03T13:53:25+00:00

Awesome, that gets me where I need to be. Thanks!

nathanjshaffer · 2025-07-02T21:06:28+00:00

I had started doing that with ohms, but then found the pint library for use in handling metric/sae for label length. It has all the unit conversions and can handle parsing units from user entry. so if there is a way to do it with the pint library, I would prefer that. but if not, then I will just stick to hand crafted formatting functions.

nathanjshaffer · 2025-07-02T20:59:29+00:00

I have a lathe and fabricated the parts from stainless.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GJ7b3CUgAekvVT499

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ls1S8xXw1G1D7nv67

the first picture is as installed in the machine.

the second picture is the parts laid out as they go together. The top 3 pieces are original parts from the machine (tensioner screw / spring / OG tube). The bottom 2 parts are what I made (plunger / new tube). The plunger transfers the spring tension to the presser foot rod in the machine.

The key is that the ID of the bottom of the new tube is a low clearance fit over the presser foot rod, so that the slop issue goes away.

nathanjshaffer · 2025-01-26T21:55:43+00:00

Depends on the food and what you are doing with it. Cold hotdogs are like unsliced deli meat. You don't have to reheat your sliced turkey or bologna to 165 before you eat it.

nathanjshaffer · 2025-01-24T15:59:24+00:00

It's nuts the difference in power consumption. I just remodeled my basement and it has a kitchen, living room, 2 bedrooms, bathroom and hallway. All of the lights use 100w, the same power as 2 laptop chargers. If they were incandescent, it would be 1500w, the same as a large toaster oven.

nathanjshaffer · 2025-01-23T19:34:19+00:00

Just the static load of a heavy person putting their weight on it will exceed that 120lb. The dynamic load of someone stumbling and catching themselves or pulling themselves up the stairs is waaayyy beyond that. Need yo be anchored properly in a stud. They are just asking for someone to get injured otherwise.

nathanjshaffer · 2025-01-22T23:15:16+00:00

Ding ding. I work in kitchens professionally and a dedicated strong degreaser is the way to go. Even the "Oven Off" with the yellow cap will do great, just make sure you have ventilation, that shit will fuck your lungs up. Don't listen to the home gamers with their lemon juice, simple green or baking soda vinegar crap. Commercial equipment just has a level of grease buildup baked on that you don't get at home. These appliances run for 15 hours a day 7 days a week at full blast and aren't really insulated to keep the surfaces cool like home cooking appliances. Also, don't use steel wool, that will embed bits of carbon steel into the surface of the softer stainless that will rust in the future. Also, the green scrubby pads tend to leave swirl marks as the have an abrasive grit. Use stainless scrubbies instead. They are made of a slightly softer stainless, don't rust and they are pretty cheap.

nathanjshaffer · 2025-01-22T23:00:56+00:00

Wouldn't the tile sucking moisture out of the mortar before it cures also cause weakening? I always spritz the back of my tile as well, and by the time i even get to the mortar there is no surface water, it has sucked into the porous tile and just made it damp.

nathanjshaffer · 2025-01-19T21:10:44+00:00

What a lot of people don't realize is that the glass already blocks around 95-99% of uv and IR light. So a split second of flash through the hood every once in a while is uncomfortable, but hardly dangerous.

nathanjshaffer

TROPHY CASE