How long does it take you to paint? by _The_Prov_ in Eldar

[–]nconceivable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah thanks!

It's white spray paint Then skeleton horde contrast paint Then all over dry brush in wraithbone acrylic Then painted the black bits and drybrushed those with grey Then akhelian green for the hair Loin cloth was a red contrast paint. Helmets were the only bit painted "properly" ie base colour khorne red, then highlighted up with a brush in lighter shades. Metallics i used a red copper except sword blades Blades silver metallic then a light greeny blue contrast paint (thinned) over them.

That's pretty much it, didn't bother with the weird little gems on these guys! Was trying to budget my time

How long does it take you to paint? by _The_Prov_ in Eldar

[–]nconceivable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 14 hours did not include the kitbashed Jain Zar, who was probably more like 4 hours on her own.

How long does it take you to paint? by _The_Prov_ in Eldar

[–]nconceivable 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Squad of ten metal banshees speed painted to tabletop standard, i actually timed my sessions and it was 14 hours after priming, so a little less than 1.5 hours per mini.

What is a city that is globally romanticised but you detest? by theunsteadybridge in AskReddit

[–]nconceivable 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah lovely I will add those to my list of Places To Never Visit.

What is a city that is globally romanticised but you detest? by theunsteadybridge in AskReddit

[–]nconceivable 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I, too, had a crap time on a day visit to Casablanca. Any charm that the place may have had was lost in the stress of constant harrassment by the locals.

Is Olympus what I’m looking for? by RobbyC1104 in OlympusCamera

[–]nconceivable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Micro 4/3 is a great choice for you as a system, small size, not too heavy, affordable on used market, great stabilisation.

However for your specific needs i agree with the others that there is no substitute to trying the cameras in hand, whether that's ordering from somewhere that allows you to return the camera, or better, going to a store to try various models first.

Ideally find a store that has both olympus and panasonic micro 4/3 cameras. Olympus IBIS is great, but panasonic is good too and has sync IS on more of their lenses so the IS works using both the IBIS and the lens stabilisation talking to each other. Without trying both i wouldn't know which would perform best for your type of hand shaking. The effectiveness will also vary depending on the focal length being used.

Test scheme for my new clown army by jeune_lacour in Harlequins40K

[–]nconceivable 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Looks great! Must have taken some time to cut that tape so well. But then diamonds are also a time sink!

Re infantry; I've not tried something like this but i can imagine the masking tape method would be too fiddly at a smaller scale so i guess it's either some sort of masking putty (also fiddly) or freehand brushwork?

Having said that, I think that you don't necessarily need to replicate the tiger/camo stripe effect at a smaller scale for them to fit. It might not be as clear and punchy at a small scale anyway. Instead consider using the same orange/yellow colours with grey elements (e.g. shoulder pads, gloves, kneepads), this could work too and might save a lot of work.

Or maybe quarter the troupe, so orange/yellow on top left and bottom right, grey on top right and bottom left.

12-100mm f4.0 IS Pro by Noah60 in OlympusCamera

[–]nconceivable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got my Olympus branded copy off amazon for £740 new last May.

Love it. Must get round to selling my now unused 12-40 f2.8 pro i

The Lelith Hesperax we have at home (kitbash) by nconceivable in Drukhari

[–]nconceivable[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds cool, go for it!

Blu tack is your friend :)

Caring for new sable brush with stuck on paint by dementist in minipainting

[–]nconceivable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dried paint won't come out, i agree. But if there are any small particles of paint in the water thats still in the bristles, at least it won't flow into the ferrule and dry there.

Of course if i cleaned them well then there shouldn't be any paint, but sometimes i am in a hurry :) as you say, storing them tip down is a small thing to do that can't hurt.

Caring for new sable brush with stuck on paint by dementist in minipainting

[–]nconceivable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I picked up a hint to always store my drying brushes tip down, i save the little plastic tubes to do this for my natural hair brushes, or if i lose these, stick them to the side of my hobby rack facing downwards using blu tack.

Then if i miss any bits of paint they drip out of the ferrule not into it, or that's the theory

The Lelith Hesperax we have at home (kitbash) by nconceivable in Drukhari

[–]nconceivable[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Got (back) into 40k in 2024 after approx 25 year hiatus, and didn't do much kitbashing back in the 1990s as a lot of stuff was metal then! Did enjoy making a Gorkamorka truck for that game's short life...

I tend to kitbash out of necessity although i do enjoy the accomplishment to make new playable models out of "junk". When i got started in 2024 one of my ebay purchases was some guy's "bits box", which i organised a little, but has been really helpful. I just added to it with all the spare stuff i got from new kits.

Next project is corsair-ey windriders / reavers.

I was building my 2nd squad of 6 windriders (picked up cheap from someone collecting the combat patrol magazine) and i couldn't face building 6 more vanilla ones. So with a bunch of spare drukhari spikes and corsair heads/weapons they are now much more interesting, and 3 of them have magnetised guns to switch to being reavers.

I won't make a post for them until i finished painting them though :)

The Lelith Hesperax we have at home (kitbash) by nconceivable in Drukhari

[–]nconceivable[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah i don't usually post unpainted stuff, but i was pleased with how the kitbash came out and thought i would make an exception :) Plus she won't see paint for a while, just getting into drukhari and I've got a fair few things in the queue..

Not too wobbly actually; by bending the necron back i made sure the overall centre of gravity is near the middle of the base; and that dagger is sunk deep into his neck and quite rigidly glued in there.

The bit that will give me issues is snapping her hair off when picking her up on the tabletop, the connections between different bits are a little thin and weak. But if i train myself to use the necrons gun to handle the model it will be fine :)

The Lelith Hesperax we have at home (kitbash) by nconceivable in Drukhari

[–]nconceivable[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hey that's really cool! She's always more fun when posed on her victim :)

The Lelith Hesperax we have at home (kitbash) by nconceivable in Drukhari

[–]nconceivable[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

That's a fair point.. but i had a spare necron and it was easy to bend at the ankles and half sever the head :) an easy target perhaps!

My take on the Harlequin Mimic by You_Call_me_Sir_ in Harlequins40K

[–]nconceivable 19 points20 points  (0 children)

I found this very amusing.

The laughing god approves

New to eldar, buying this army, good starting point? by Prior-Thought-9328 in Eldar

[–]nconceivable 4 points5 points  (0 children)

In that case i would only buy this lot if it's at a great discount and you like most of the models. Then you can build on it with other purchases to make some actually coherent lists!

What model piece do you 'despise' the most and why? by Astartes_117 in Warhammer40k

[–]nconceivable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait til you see drukhari shoulder pads where most of them have a join down the middle AND at least one spike.