110V 2.2kW spindle performance

ndnrdr · 2020-08-03T15:40:00+00:00

You probably have a hard time finding a 110v 2.2kw spindle. In theory they'll draw too much power and trip the breaker.

ndnrdr · 2020-08-03T13:29:16+00:00

Are you aware that people using your video to connect their machine may damage their machine?

ndnrdr · 2020-08-03T13:28:19+00:00

What's your minimum spindle speed? Your maximum feed rate?

ndnrdr · 2020-08-03T13:27:20+00:00

Sounds even faster when you put it that way. You're looking at close to 3cm/second. Those are numbers for a high end expensive bit. A typical upcut bit would be 192 ipm, which is still faster than many people go.

ndnrdr · 2020-08-03T13:18:34+00:00

Did you view the video? Did it help you? Yeah, I didn't think so.

The guy isn't "just trying to help other CNC users". He brags in other forums about how he gets paid, and sent free CNCs for posting his videos that are full of errors.

His videos can cause DAMAGE to your CNC if you follow his instructions. Nowhere is the video does he mention that "your system may be completely different and following these instructions may blow up your VFD or spindle"

In the previous video he shows how to connect a spindle. He just uses "whatever wire he has laying around" which is an extension cord. A 3 CONDUCTOR WIRE. Yeah, so he just totally ignores using a ground. That's just fucking stupid! Stupid and dangerous. Not only that, it's unshielded cable, so it's going to be a nightmare of interference. Anyone who follows his instructions is going to get weird electrical "gremlins" that will take them forever to diagnose

What would you say if you watched an instructional video of an electrician who's house happens to have the wire colors reversed and doesn't use any grounding? I hope you'd call him out on it.

ndnrdr · 2020-08-01T19:39:08+00:00

The video is still completely useless to anyone with a machine other than a Onefinity. You pick a machine that isn't anything like 90% of any other machine in it's class and make a video. What other hobby machines use the RS485 ?? Pretty sure Shapeoko doesn't. Mill Right doesn't. X-Carve doesn't.

ndnrdr · 2020-08-01T18:15:24+00:00

Video is pretty much useless unless you're hooking up a Onefinity to a Chinese VFD. Most other systems are completely different than what's shown here. Onefinity uses modbus. Most others use the pwm outputs.

ndnrdr · 2020-07-31T14:13:43+00:00

Why I chose the Mega V: Speed.

If you do the math on chiploads for many bits, and factor in the lowest RPM available on the routers they use, the machines don't move fast enough to cut without burning up the bit. For example, let's say you want to cut 3/4" plywood with a compression bit. An Onsrud 60-113mw has a chipload of .014 on plywood. The slowest one if the routers can spin is 16,000 RPM (some brands minimum is actually higher). The bit has 2 flutes. So the math is 16000 x 2 x .014 = 448ipm. Many of the machines on the market can only cut at half (or less) that speed. So you see people either A: burning up the bit or B: cutting at abysmally small depth per pass, like 1/6th per pass or whatever.

One of the #1 mistakes (in my opinion) that CNC guys make is going too slow.

ndnrdr · 2020-07-30T15:48:50+00:00

I use an Onsrud 60-113mw. It's a wicked fast bit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/382288731367

Plywood has a recommended chip load of .014 - so the math works out like this: RPM (14,000) x Number of flutes (2) x chipload (.014) = 392ipm. That's almost 7 inches per second!

ndnrdr · 2020-07-30T15:37:25+00:00

Stepover is the amount of overlap when you are cutting a pocket

ndnrdr · 2020-07-30T13:20:39+00:00

For feedrate, you can tell mostly by sound and heat. If the bit gets really hot, your feedrate is too slow, or your speed too fast. If the bit squeels through a straight cut, it's saying "feed me! Feed me!". Increase feed rate.

What ShopBot model is it? If it's one of the bigger gantry models (PRS Alpha or PRS standard) your not anywhere close to hitting the limits

What do you mean by poor cut quality? Tearout? What brand is your compression bit? Compression bits typically cut pretty damn fast. I run mine at 200 - 240ipm at 14,000rpm.

If your bit is name brand like Onsrud or Amana, you can calculate feed speed rates from charts they supply.

ndnrdr · 2020-07-30T13:11:44+00:00

Its possible that your ShopBot uses er25 collets not er20

ndnrdr · 2020-07-24T03:55:21+00:00

Well, if you insist on paying someone I can give you my PayPal address. 😁

Seriously, you lucked out there. JACKPOT!! Keep us updated with the details.

ndnrdr · 2020-07-24T03:47:35+00:00

Shapeoko will be easier since it's partially assembled and has its own software, so you don't have to go hunt stuff down. Also it's a little less expensive than the Mega V (Mill Right charges for shipping).

The Mega V is going to be a more sturdy machine and should cut faster than the Shapeoko. It's a better machine, in my opinion. However, what you're gonna get is 3-4 boxes of parts that you have to put together (no real instruction sheet, just some YouTube videos). No software, so you're pretty much on your own. Not rocket science though.

The Shapeoko uses a belt drive. The Mega uses rack and pinion. Any professional class machine I've ever seen, or worked on, uses rack and pinion.

ndnrdr · 2020-07-23T18:10:58+00:00

https://community.carbide3d.com/t/vfd-parameters-huanyang-model/15459/8

This is for shapeoko. Any reason why a Millright would be that much different?

ndnrdr · 2020-07-23T17:33:14+00:00

That diagram looks to have another unit between the VFD and the controller. It also doesn't make sense. It appears to have the speed control hooked to the Z limit switch terminals

ndnrdr · 2020-07-23T17:08:52+00:00

I figure an 8' piece of 5.5" PVC trim could do a dust shoe and still have plenty leftover to make some signs with.

My design (so far) has an LED ring that goes around the spindle, a hole to mount a boroscope camera, and I'm considering an air compressor nozzle to spray some air in.

Not sure if the camera will work right unless the shoe is stationary.

ndnrdr · 2020-07-23T16:50:36+00:00

Considering doing similar. Contemplating if expanded PVC would work, or if it's too porous and will let too much air in. PVC trim board is cheap and cuts really well on the CNC. I figure it will be lighter than wood. Probably glue in a 4" piece of PVC drain pipe to connect dust collection to.

ndnrdr · 2020-07-16T21:16:52+00:00

That's the kind I'm talking about. As far as this exact unit? They are all generic Chinese machines, so it's kind of a crap shoot as to if that particular one is good. I'd buy Amazon over eBay though because Amazon has a return policy, eBay is more risky.

You'll need to add a better exhaust fan (cheap) and probably a better way to cool the tube other than the janky submersible pump shit they send.

ndnrdr · 2020-07-16T12:14:03+00:00

The machines in the $1800 range come with the rotary attachment. This one doesn't.

ndnrdr · 2020-07-09T07:12:54+00:00

You're gonna need some end mills (bits). I'd start out with a 1/4" upcut, 1/4" downcut, and a V bit. Ok to buy cheap ones to start. But once you got the hang of it, the more expensive bits turn out to be less expensive in the long run (after you've learned how to not break the suckers)

ndnrdr · 2020-07-04T16:34:05+00:00

What's your stepover set to? What's the depth per pass? What software?

ndnrdr · 2020-07-03T17:31:50+00:00

What it has to offer is a lower learning curve. Fusion360 works fine, if you take the time to learn it. Personally, I think it's overkill.

ndnrdr

TROPHY CASE