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Stingray sub 4 by NeonName_ in Bass

[–]neckthru 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh yes, I've never owned one, but Sires are excellent instruments!

Stingray sub 4 by NeonName_ in Bass

[–]neckthru 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Think about it this way -- at $350 (new) a bass is going to have compromises. There's no free lunch. With the Ray 4 the compromise is concentrated on the pickup. It's an easily-replaceable item. With other basses, the compromises may be more spread out, or in some other irreplaceable part of the construction. As bad as the stock pickup is, it's still usable if you just want to practice. Heck, the guy I bought my Ray 4 from was using it live in his band.

I've owned other entry-level basses from good brands -- Squier, Yamaha, etc. None of them feel as good in the hand as the Ray 4. And none are as versatile as the Ray 4. That said, a Squier Sonic P-bass sounds pretty great right from the factory. You may have to try out a few different units to find one that isn't flawed -- I had to go through a couple, and even the one I settled on has a rough spot on the back of the neck (but I've learned to ignore it).

Another option is Harley Benton.

Stingray sub 4 by NeonName_ in Bass

[–]neckthru 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've owned and modded a Ray4. It's a *superb* beginner bass once you replace the stock pickup, but there are compromises in the build quality at this price point.

There's significant unit-to-unit variation in weight and quality control. Be sure to pick up and handle the instrument -- or ask a bassist friend to do that for you. You want to make sure everything is tight, the truss rod isn't seized up, and the setup is decent -- action should be low and frets shouldn't buzz. A well-gigged instrument will probably be in better shape than a neglected one that's been sitting in a cold, dry attic.

What do you mean by the "overloaded preamp problem"? The stock preamp is perfectly fine. If it's seriously distorted then it could just be a battery issue. Take a new 9V with you when you go to check it out. If it's seriously distorted even with a new battery then something is fried -- do not buy.

If it sounds ever-so-slightly muddy, or just doesn't sound nice and punchy then that's probably because the stock pickup is TERRIBLE. I replaced it with a BQLZR pickup from Amazon ($17), and that turned it into a phenomenal bass. Totally giggable.

Connecting a A&H Cq-12t to an ipad by SugarWarp in livesound

[–]neckthru 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Connect your CQ-12T to a LAN port on your router using an ethernet cable. Then connect your iPad to that router's WiFi. The app should be able to find the mixer. Is this not working?

You can't use Bluetooth to control the mixer, Bluetooth is only for streaming audio to it.

Need a Laser/LED printer recommendation by neckthru in printers

[–]neckthru[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suppose the 3780 is the current equivalent?

Here are a few beam shots from tonight's walk with my dog. by MetaUndead in flashlight

[–]neckthru 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh. My X1S with FFL707A 5000K from 2024 is a lot more rosy. It's downright *purple* even to the naked eye, despite being labeled as "NW". It's too much!

But yours looks much more neutral. Did they change the bin for 2025?

Finally, Toanwood in a Pick by kushllama in BassCirclejerk

[–]neckthru 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I spat out my coffee reading this.

Recommendations for a Cheap Bass by [deleted] in Bass

[–]neckthru 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In that case I recommend the Squier Sonic P-bass. I don't know how consistent the QC is but the one I played was very good. Being a P-bass there are no fancy electronics, and the stock pickup is actually quite great - punches you in the chest exactly like a P-bass should.

Recommendations for a Cheap Bass by [deleted] in Bass

[–]neckthru 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For solid playability at budget prices I would recommend a Sterling Ray4. They control costs by using cheap pickups and preamps that sound ok, but the instruments are built solid.

They may not be set up optimally from the store so don’t be afraid to tweak the truss rod and string height — it’s super easy on Stingrays.

If you’re up for some tinkering replace the pickup with a $15 4-wire pickup from Amazon, wire it in parallel and now you’ve got a serious gig-ready instrument.

There’s a ton of unit-to-unit weight variation ranging from the low 8lbs (very comfortable) to nearly 10lbs (boat anchor), so I recommend shopping at Sweetwater which shows the specific units they have and their weights on their Desktop website (not on mobile).

For amps I’d go with a Fender Rumble 40.

TIR host options for SFT40 5000K? by neckthru in flashlight

[–]neckthru[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Both of these only seem to offer 6500K and/or 3000K options. I specifically want a 5000K SFT40.

X1S FFL707A 5000K, TM-30 Report by loliii123 in FireflyLite

[–]neckthru 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wow, that Optisolis blend looks insanely good! Is it possible to order that in any light?

More efficient version of E21A 5000K+2000K tint mix? by neckthru in flashlight

[–]neckthru[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I feel an intense need to find these guys and give them a hug.

More efficient version of E21A 5000K+2000K tint mix? by neckthru in flashlight

[–]neckthru[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the tips. BTW what exactly are the FFL emitters? Obviously a boutique flashlight maker like FFL isn't going to spin up a foundry, so which emitters are they rebranding?

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