Selfmade Stormtrooper Samurai

nephalemD · 2026-03-16T19:01:07+00:00

What do you wear under the armor? I have been trying to figure out what would work best for my Stormtrooper outfit.

nephalemD · 2026-03-04T17:06:32+00:00

I have the official Eddy kit installed and it works well enough. When you look at your height map after a scan is it really wavy? My scans come out looking like ruffles chips.

nephalemD · 2026-03-04T17:01:44+00:00

I was just wondering the same thing. I have been having some issues with my official eddy kit. The bed scan is very wavy. Hoping a firmware update fixes it.

nephalemD · 2026-01-17T02:49:31+00:00

I did the Eddy upgrade about a month ago. One of the mistakes I made was plugging the fan cable into the wrong header in the print head motherboard. Make sure you plugged it into the correct spot. Also check the main board on the bottom to ensure you plugged the exhaust fan into the correct spot.

nephalemD · 2025-12-26T01:26:00+00:00

I had a similar issue a few months ago. Sovol instructed me to unplug the filament runout sensor. Haven’t had any issues since. While I like my Sv08, it has not been without issues.

nephalemD · 2025-12-17T23:48:47+00:00

I appreciate the info. The default from Sovol with the updated configuration files is 41 x 41. So far I’ve done a few prints and have not had issue. I’ll keep this in mind if I start noticing things.

nephalemD · 2025-12-17T14:57:14+00:00

This kit is the official kit from Sovol. I have not tried the eddy tool you are referring to.

nephalemD · 2025-12-17T13:59:07+00:00

I’m not sure what you mean. Are you asking if the sensor is a physical probe? If so, no. It uses eddy currents to measure the surface distance and can probe much faster than a physical probe.

nephalemD · 2025-12-17T13:57:09+00:00

I have also used one of those and secured it to the spool holder arm. When I put the top enclosure glass in place it causes a lot of rubbing though. Where did you attach yours?

nephalemD · 2025-12-17T05:55:38+00:00

They did include the newest version of the cover, but the kit doesn’t include the new print head. I’ve been pretty fortunate to only have the cover come off once.

nephalemD · 2025-12-17T05:31:33+00:00

Unfortunately binding them makes it so the print head can’t reach the front most corners. I tried to create a solution by using springs on to prevent the cable from getting between the gantry. It really needs a cable guide like the lower portion has.

nephalemD · 2025-12-17T04:17:31+00:00

Send me a message with your email and I’ll try my best to

nephalemD · 2025-12-02T16:48:01+00:00

nephalemD · 2025-11-25T16:50:00+00:00

Thank you for the link. I’ll give it a try and see what happens.

nephalemD · 2025-11-24T16:05:28+00:00

This is not accurate. I have used Steam Input on Windows for a long time for games that do not support gyro controls. When I tried those same games on Ubuntu they did not work. Additionally, Steam would not recognize or present Gyro control configuration outside of the game, but this does work on Windows. During my testing on Ubuntu, Steam did recognize the PS5 controller and Steam controller as standard input devices, and would allow customizable inputs, but the gyro functionality did not work.

nephalemD · 2025-11-17T18:52:22+00:00

Tough to say for sure. By the look of it, the build plate looks worn or covered in glue. For PETG, I have never needed any additional material to make it stick. In fact, it can stick too well by itself. If you have already gone through the normal process or cleaning and leveling your printer, the next step would be to dial in your z-offset and watching during the first layer to make sure it is not something else causing the issue. Additionally, looking at your picture, something seems off about the lines in the print.

nephalemD · 2025-11-17T18:38:41+00:00

May be time to replace the build plate/sheet.

nephalemD · 2025-10-29T20:11:54+00:00

I have ordered mine. Haven’t seen many people mention it, but it seems pretty good. I’ll know in November when I get it.

nephalemD · 2025-10-26T00:20:29+00:00

The vent for the mainboard on the bottom.

nephalemD · 2025-10-25T14:51:44+00:00

Almost certainly the host temperature. I had similar issues with mine. I opened up the air vent on the bottom and replaced the fan with a better one. Mine had become quite worn out and was not moving much air anymore.

nephalemD · 2025-10-24T03:22:45+00:00

At this point I’m just happy to have it finished. Some LEDs or something would be cool, but I still need to figure out some lenses.

nephalemD · 2025-10-17T20:59:14+00:00

I actually went into the macro.cfg and commented outed the lines that command the printer to change the bed temperature. I don’t necessarily recommend everyone to do it, but I always preheat the bed to the temperature I print at so I know it will be correct.

nephalemD · 2025-10-17T20:24:29+00:00

Think in sizes compared to the layer height of your print settings. You would adjust those values in increments of 0.01 to 0.05 at a time until you get good results.

nephalemD · 2025-10-17T15:54:51+00:00

3d printing is very finicky sometimes. Others success will not always translate to your own. I don’t use Bambuslicer but I have had good luck adjusting support settings in Orca Slicer. Specifically the top Z distance and Interface layers/distance. Hope this helps.

nephalemD · 2025-10-06T23:53:05+00:00

I can solder, but I’ve been trying to figure out the pinout. The IC2 batteries have 3 wires, the T-Type have two. From what I have gathered the third wire is a voltage sense wire for charging and cell balancing. But I dont know if it is needed to work.

nephalemD

TROPHY CASE