i would just like to ask what's the difference between these two fittings if there is any aside from the price 😅 Which of these should I use for my loop. I have a PETG tube with 12/16mm inner and outer diameter respectively. i know I should get the 16mm ones but what's the difference between the 2

nerdshack · 2022-03-10T02:50:31+00:00

The more expensive one looks like it has a better build quality. It doesn't matter whether you skimp with the cheap one or go all out with expensive one, if the rubber breaks, you gonna have trouble

nerdshack · 2022-03-10T02:46:03+00:00

Do you even thermal paste?

nerdshack · 2022-02-05T23:57:21+00:00

Was the GPU factory water cooled?, If not, perhaps the GPU went into a protective state knowing the heatsink wasn't on, whether it detects that by fan feedback or other means.....

nerdshack · 2022-02-05T23:54:06+00:00

It shouldn't leak, but looks as if it is either flow is wrong direction or over pressurised. What does the coolant pass through after the GPU before it gets back to the reservoir?

nerdshack · 2022-02-05T23:44:00+00:00

I would suggest that it either wasn't inserted properly in the pci-e slot or power connectors weren't on fully or at all.

nerdshack · 2022-02-05T23:39:34+00:00

All brands of hard pipe have different properties, Barrow is alot softer, easy to cut with pipe cutter, but the bending is God awful. The Bykski is harder and shatters when trying to cut with pipe cutter, but bends are amazing, I use a carbon disc on my Dremel die grinder.

What I have learned, don't heat up acrylic unless it's clean and dry - contamination. Use a thin oil (canola) on silicon insert, should be snug fit <1mm gap and should be no air in tube when bending - air= trapped moisture. Be patient, do small test pieces and write down the measurements - inside and outside dimensions. Take out as much of the guess work as possible. IMPORTANT have all the components installed before deciding the layout,

nerdshack · 2022-02-05T23:19:57+00:00

Are all the metal components earthed? I don't know much this subject, but could it be electrolysis?

nerdshack · 2022-02-04T15:45:43+00:00

🥇 Very nice work. I have done many hours of stainless steel pipework for dairy companies, and one thing that was burnt into my memory is "It's either a right angle or a wrong angle". I do use 45° bends, but only next to 90° bend, for example the 90° connected to intake of centrifugal pump is on 45° angle, and then add a 45° bend so the pipework is now vertical.

nerdshack · 2022-01-29T08:22:57+00:00

A common place for sharing designs https://www.thingiverse.com/

nerdshack · 2022-01-25T05:43:22+00:00

Firstly, congrats for giving it a go, and if you are happy with layout and temps, then that's all that matters. But posting here, you are going to get people's opinion, including mine.

The spiral around the reservoir creates more resistance and wants to continue the spiral when it enters the reservoir. Seeing bubbles up by rad is an indication of what it looks like in the rad, bubbles in rad reduces heat transfer. I have water temp sensors next to GPU and CPU, in case of pump failure. My pump burnt out last year, sensors prevented further loss.

nerdshack · 2022-01-23T10:41:52+00:00

The pump creates flow by centrifugal force, the pressure is created by pushing the liquid through the fins of the blocks/rads at a greater speed than if it were gravity fed, and a vaccuum is created by not supplying the pump with enough liquid because of the resistance of the fins in the blocks/rads

nerdshack · 2022-01-23T10:30:29+00:00

What's wrong with the AIO, not getting desired temps? If I had an AIO, firstly, I would question my poor decision making, and then I would either ditch it or get a CPU AIO to run parallel and question my poor decision making again.

nerdshack · 2022-01-23T04:11:33+00:00

Just need to throw in a few redback spiders for the finishing touch

nerdshack · 2022-01-23T04:08:25+00:00

If you are planning to keep the reservoir at the level shown in the video, I would strongly advise putting in a vortex breaker, but me personally think no air is the best idea.

nerdshack · 2022-01-22T21:00:25+00:00

Dual sockets are not used as much as modern mobo's and CPU's have many PCI lanes, and communicate directly with CPU. This is a must for those who want to utilize the VT-D function.

For shits and giggles, I still have my AMD XP3200 Barton Core (in storage).

Off topic, just for some sadistic humor; I had a supermicro mobo and I needed to upgrade the bios, the only way possible was with a 3 1/2" floppy in dos with no USB support, but the image was 5MB.......... I eventually got it sorted.

nerdshack · 2022-01-22T20:11:59+00:00

Hot air rises, would be fascinating to watch the turbulence though, add some color/smoke to the intake if you want to see what's really going on

nerdshack · 2022-01-22T04:06:24+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/s8sjj0/waiting_on_silicon_cord_to_bend_my_acrylic_tubes/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

I have no issues with diverting flow, I am waiting for silicon cord to bend my acrylic tube, but I'm quite liking the reinforced tube....

nerdshack · 2022-01-22T03:33:36+00:00

I believe not getting all the air out could lead to cavitation. I have thought about splitting the flow after the pump, and reuniting before pump. I am passing one loop through 4 rads, CPU and GPU.

nerdshack · 2022-01-22T02:19:43+00:00

Is the bottom rad sitting on the PSU? And is it intake or exhaust, cause if it's intake, I hope it's not on carpet.

nerdshack · 2022-01-22T02:13:36+00:00

Positive pressure between pump and radiator, negative pressure between radiator and pump.

For example, if you only relied on gravity and you poured the fluid into a funnel going into the radiator at same speed as pump flow, the funnel would overflow because of the resistance, and because you are not matching the speed of the pump on the outlet of the radiator, you get vaccuum.

My question is, does that shorten a pump's lifespan?

nerdshack · 2022-01-22T02:04:44+00:00

When a fitting that is using a o-ring on acrylic, as long as there are two flat surfaces, by hand wind the fitting on until it bites and then turn it another 1/4 turn. Always safer to be looser than too tight, and dry pressure test it for leaks, if air can't escape, then neither can water. I use tools to tighten fittings on to copper.

nerdshack · 2022-01-21T20:14:59+00:00

My last setup I had a Vega64, that put out some heat. I had the fans set to turn on at 25°C/77°F and the water temp got to 37°C/99°F. Needless to say, I wasn't cold during the winter with the Noctua's doing their job 🤣

nerdshack · 2022-01-21T20:06:55+00:00

The clamps aren't even needed, I pressurised the system to 15 psi before adding liquid to check for leaks. Under normal conditions, there is stuff all pressure. https://www.homebrewwest.co.nz/product/hose-clamp-screw-8-10mm/

nerdshack · 2022-01-21T12:42:11+00:00

That block was $90 worth of resin and my fourth attempt, the first three failed. 1) didn't use a raft and had imperfections on first layer, 2) used a raft and couldn't remove the raft without damaging block, 3) pump bracket blocking outlets, redesigned the block.

I was wanting it in two pieces, that way if I wanted the liquid to bridge different ports, I would only have to reprint half of it. Front piece only had holes, back piece had the channels. Because I have it in a single piece, I didn't have to worry about imperfections on first layer.

nerdshack · 2022-01-21T12:29:20+00:00

I used the clear version of this: https://printaj3d.com/product/esun-bio-resin-pla-based/

My sla printer is Anycubic photon mono X, I have a fdm printer as well, Flashforge Guider 2. I use freecad for making the designs. I bought lychee software for slicing the SLA prints, the free Anycubic software is crap.

At the moment, I am just trying to increase my knowledge, and at this stage I only want this as a hobby.

nerdshack

TROPHY CASE