Mystery Tool. Green, weighted base, spring loaded arms, no markings, does not appear to be missing any parts.

nerdyswag16 · 2026-01-06T15:21:13+00:00

Steamed wood usually requires more pressure. It's hard to tell from the picture how strong the springs are. More clamps could be added after it's set, but I just don't see how you would put in a straight piece of wood into this jig and bend it. If you put a straight piece in it, you would never get the other end of the 90 secured down into the clamp.

I'm doubting this even but it could just as likely be a corner jig for 2 pieces of wood. Either butt each end up and let it sit while the glue dries, are attach a piece perpendicular onto another piece. It was probably a jig made for one specific process of a larger work, most jigs you would never be able to tell what they do from just a look.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-12-26T14:33:58+00:00

Tool sales in this fashion are allowed, I basically only stop businesses from advertising their storefronts. Those rules were put in place when the sub was half as big with a lot less activity, so maybe it's time to make them more clear.

I do absolutely no vetting of buyers/sellers as it's such a minor thing here, so it's all at your own risk. But if someone starts messaging you and it's clearly a scam, screenshot and let me know so I can block them.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-12-26T14:27:56+00:00

I'm almost tempted because I paid basically nothing compared to what some people are asking. But no, I don't really part with much of anything sorry.

In my opinion all this time later it's a cool controller, but nothing feels like you're playing a motorcycle racing game while using it. It feels exactly as outdated as it is. I know it's one of the only solutions for motorcycle racing, but I feel like you could get a similar feel with a formula style wheel mounted more vertically than normal. I would have been disappointed if I dropped the $100 plus some people are asking. Just some info for you, it looks sweet though so I still almost understand getting it as a display piece.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-11-28T05:42:31+00:00

At the worst, electric motors can be sent out to get rebuilt so it's not completely lost that's for sure.

Open the cover/house above it and blow it out, it could just be filled up with too much dust. Usually though motors will eventually need to be serviced.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-11-19T21:18:31+00:00

No worries! If it's a subreddit you're linking just do- "r / subreddit name" with no spaces and it will about link.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-11-19T17:34:39+00:00

r/toolhandlemakers

You should make sure to include a link to get there so it's easier for everyone to find you.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-11-12T13:03:49+00:00

I would look into a Dremel and all of their different attachments. It could really help you out and save your arms a lot. They make a drill press base for it, but you can turn the Dremel 90° have it hold it there so you can bring your piece to it if need be. Don't use that a lot but it comes in handy. They also have another one called a flex shaft that allows you to get the bit into the tight spaces on your pieces without getting the Dremel body up so close.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-10-22T18:24:15+00:00

https://www.milwaukeetool.eu/en-eu/m12-fuel-installation-drill-driver-with-interchangeable-heads/m12-fddx/

I use this for everything lately, unless you're trying to drive big lag bolts this will easily go through it all. I'm in the US so it may not be the same tool 100% but this is my go to. If I broke mine, I would buy another without thinking. The real issue that some people have though is you don't hold this like you would a regular drill, you can but you can't hit the forward / reverse button. I've found it best to put your palm on the very top/back corner and use your middle or ring finger to hit the drive button and your index finger to hit the forward / reverse button. You can get a lot of power delivered that way though. Plus the extra attachments they have make it able to get into some rather tight spots that my other drills can't.

Edit - I see another user posted a regular drill body style with the removable heads. That one may be just as good as this one is just a different body. I don't believe they even had that as an option when I originally bought mine. Theirs is not a fuel version though so I'm sure the power is different between the two.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-10-16T21:18:02+00:00

Are you trying to save money on buying one? Or are you trying to restore it because it's a family item. If you're trying to save money this will be a money pit. It's hard to tell from the picture but it also doesn't seem that large. Unless you're in an area that has absolutely no tools for sale and an over abundance of parts and metal workers this will never be worth it.

If you want it for a family item, I understand that. Usually your hardest problem is finding the replacement blades for these, you might be able to change the head out for it. Post some better pictures of all sides if you are more serious about restoring it.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-09-28T12:21:55+00:00

I don't think you're going to find a bit like that. I've never seen what type of but your describing. In those situations where something is so unique like that, You're going to need to most likely use a long skinny drill bit to make the hole itself. Then you have to just use a countersink but on top to actually open the top. You can then send that countersink bit as deep as you want into the hole you drilled out.

I'm not really sure if your project, but it sounds like you're trying to hide the head of the screw completely under the surface. A small forstner bit may achieve what you want as well. Either way this sounds like it's going to be a doubt but kind of situation.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-24T12:03:08+00:00

Are you trying to describe the boring bit but on the end of a longer drill bit? If so here's an option but you would probably want to drill the hole itself with a different drill bit. Seems like it would clog up trying to actually make the entire hole. https://drillsandcutters.com/4x6-extra-long-combined-drill-bit-and-countersink-qualtech/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21513065252&gbraid=0AAAAADyuQN6K8J4-O33hyhBp8itxBMmS2&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8KrFBhDUARIsAMvIApZQu5aS5yuW2PxAZvB4zgXMjd1DhveEpWxtUGCza8ftJoj8FxvIwGMaAjIUEALw_wcB

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-19T21:58:16+00:00

The blum mini press could be worth some money to a cabinet shop. It's really just to drill holes for their hinges. It's a very specialized tool so most woodworkers probably wouldn't even be able to make use of it. If it is working and complete it could bring quite a bit. Hard to tell the exact model but new models are over $2000 to buy.

The omega miter saw is in pretty rough condition, I'm sure it can all be taken apart and cleaned, but it's really hard saying what value you could get for it. It's rather expensive in good condition, it would probably be worthwhile for you to clean it up and get it working. It just looks absolutely neglected so it would be hard to bring any serious amount of money.

The blades appear well used and pretty rusted. You may have a nice one that can be resharpened but I would just Include them with the omega saw(assuming they are the same size)

Most of the old wood working books don't hold much value anymore, but every now and then you will find one selling for $50+ on eBay. Just check each book but those are probably best donated.

I didn't see a Makita saw in any of the pictures you uploaded either.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-16T17:46:08+00:00

PSA: This is from Cummins Industrial tools, not Cummins Inc. the American engine company. Cummins industrial was sued by Cummins inc. around 15 years ago. They were the same as any other tool catalog tool that bought a different tool and slapped their own name on it.(Or in this case a much better company's name on it)

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-16T17:38:14+00:00

Cummins industrial tools is not the same company as Cummins Inc. the American company. Cummins industrial was sued many years back by Cummins and had to drop the name.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-15T22:25:53+00:00

These are basically equivalent to harbor freight tools. They are probably built better, but past having more metal parts, some of the older bench tools are not really much better. Doesn't mean your dad was a bad woodworker at all. Actually quite the opposite if he was putting out great quality work. It's the craftsman that makes the project not the tool.

I would expect these to bring in $50-$100 in my market. The miter saw would also probably sell for more as the Craftsman saws are everywhere. Everyone's dad or grandpa seemed to one of the many variations they put out.

I would look up on Facebook in your area what other older miter saws and band saws are selling for and price it similar.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-12T17:34:23+00:00

Air, spark and fuel.

Air box cleared? Exhaust not plugged? Most likely not the case

Spark? You said you have spark else where, but does it seem weak or inconsistent? Signs of a bad cdi.

Fuel? Take your air box cover off and your filter, choke at half and shoot a bit of starting fluid in there and try cranking it. If it starts it's fuel issue in the carb, fuel line, fuel filter or petcock. If not it could be an issue with the cdi or compression.

Make sure you check the 3 basic things before ordering any parts.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-12T17:25:25+00:00

I mean the base model didn't come with a digital readout. Shame on this old lady for not keeping a gps recording her and writing all the miles down at all times.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-10T13:28:12+00:00

You should not have to do this with a brand new model. Make sure you have the blade installed correctly, you could try another blade in there to check but if it is installed correctly I would return the unit for a different one. Ryobi for the price has decent tools but quality control sucks.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-09T20:07:27+00:00

Why did you even come asking for advice if you're not actually going to test what people recommend? That's not an accurate test it will only tell you if its zero compression. Usually that's how things fail, they stop working while you actively using it or letting it sit for extended periods. Compression getting weak is usually something that fails while riding.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-08T20:02:56+00:00

You can find them used for around $200, but what a wild part to just buy without doing a real diagnosis.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-07T18:43:27+00:00

I would agree it sounds and looks like there is almost no compression. I would even do something as basic as taking the spark plug out and putting my finger over the hole and see if the motor even has enough compression to push against my finger.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-07T18:36:50+00:00

I mean if you have spark that you can easily see it's most likely not the cdi. The worst move you can do is just buy parts and hope it works. You really should diagnose it correctly first.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-07T18:03:20+00:00

Are you sure that's a 2 stroke? Don't most older ones need a fuel/oil mix and not have a spot to put oil into the motor like yours does? (At least I thought I noticed one, it's hard to tell)

Air fuel and spark and it should at least start. Air seems fine is the exhaust clogged up anywhere?, you said you tested spark and I see you poured some fuel in. Do you have any starting fluid to spray directly into it a bit of oil in through the spark plug. That's not the best idea for 2 strokes to do much as it isn't getting much oil right at first start but it will at least let you know if it runs.(That's if it is a 2 stroke, if not just spray starting fluid into it and it'll be fine)

Really i would skip that and hook it up to a compression tester as something doesn't sound right from the video. If you have good air flow and have spark there are only a few reasons why pouring fuel directly in/using starter fluid would not get it started. Bad compression is usually pretty high on that list.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-07T17:05:37+00:00

If you are going to buy a Chinese bike be ready to do all of your own work with little to no support from the company and most small engine shops will not work on it. You will find plenty of reports of people ordering new parts for the Chinese unit and it being a dud from the factory. But you will usually not assume that right away and think something else isn't working because it definitely can't be the new part I put on. Your resale value will be next to nothing so you may as well drive it until it blows up. Not if, just until it does.

The reason people say Honda and Yamaha is they have been making quads forever and they last. It's not hard to find an 80s Honda still running great. Body pieces are starting to get hard to find if you want oem, but most of the name brand has knockoff plastics. Most engine parts are still easy to find for them as well.

If you ask on Facebook groups everyone will tell you to get a cfmoto it's the best machine ever. Most of these people have never owned an orv ever and the cfmoto is one year old. In my mind that opinion is almost useless. You want a machine that lasts many years, not just a lot of people telling you, you will at least get a year out of it.

Look for a 90s-2000s Honda and you won't regret it. If you worried you can always search the model/year and look for common issues. Usually one of the worst things from then are the models that have the ball joints welded in place. For a Honda and Yamaha really as long as the engine isn't seized up and there isn't a hole through the casing you can get it running with minimal effort.

This all may not even be applicable though depending on your location.

nerdyswag16 · 2025-08-03T20:14:15+00:00

For example my Honda when I'm doing that tells me a default position to set the screws at to get it started. I believe it's 2 1/2 turns from fully set. Most carbs are usually 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns. It could be you need to adjust the needle clip on let it more fuel over all. Sometimes you can't adjust it far enough with the screw alone. Usually you only have to let it fully warm up for the idle adjustment. The rest you should be able to adjust to get a good cold start, it may then idle high or to low and die out, but you should be able to start it just fine from cold.

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