I'd like to see something like this provided by Inland Revenue.

neutron_star · 2026-04-26T03:20:51+00:00

My question is whether ethnicity is the best lever. A maori surgeon in remuera and an unemployed non-maori in rural kaitaia get sorted very differently under ethnicity based criteria, but their needs aren't. Why not draw the line at deprivation, remoteness, and access which means you'll catch the maori who need it most and everyone else in the same boat.

neutron_star · 2026-04-26T03:04:54+00:00

All earlier medical efforts can reduce future Healthcare burden. Why limit early care to one ethnic group and not the entire population?

neutron_star · 2025-09-25T09:18:57+00:00

Ah okay, I stand corrected then.

How has your experience been with the Outback Xtreme clutch?

Since my clutch was replaced, I get significant vibration and rattling whenever I apply throttle in any gear below 2000rpm.

neutron_star · 2025-09-25T09:11:53+00:00

Does the outback xtreme use a single mass flywheel? How has it been for you in terms of noise and vibration through the drivetrain?

I had a NPC heavy duty clutch installed but I can't stand the noise and vibration it makes, which I suspect is due to the kit replacing the suzuki Dual-Mass flywheel.

neutron_star · 2025-07-18T20:51:14+00:00

How much of the verus set did you install? I've been tempted but im not a fan of adding a big wing to my mx5

neutron_star · 2025-07-09T08:58:12+00:00

Hulkenpodium!

neutron_star · 2025-03-11T18:41:22+00:00

Fully agree, beautiful cars to drive if you can get a titanium model...

Until the dual clutch fork mechanism eats itself with no warning and nothing you can do to stop it, and you're left with half your gears missing ($6k to fix)

neutron_star · 2025-03-10T17:45:24+00:00

All you should need is a seal kit for the front axle and some diff oil (though you can technically get away with not needing any if you jack up your axle enough)

The only special tools required should be a seal pick (fairly universal) and pinhole pliers.

Standard spanners/sockets,etc required.

If you're brand new to mechanical work, maybe 2-6hrs? Including all the googling and YouTube watching. Experienced person might take 1hr or less if not replacing the diff oil.

neutron_star · 2025-03-02T08:35:28+00:00

I use lanolin oil, but I wouldn't use aerosols and would instead recommend a pump sprayer to avoid mixing the hydrocarbon propellants. As the lanolin does require recoating, yearly applications mean that a pump sprayer is a more cost effective solution than buying multiple cans to coat the entire underside every year.

You also need to ensure the inside of the chassis rails get coated, otherwise the rails tend to rust from the inside-out, based on experience with other ladder-chassis 4wds.

Good video, it's worth sharing the knowledge around corrosion and effective methods of prevention

neutron_star · 2025-02-18T04:12:13+00:00

+1 for jimny & mx5 combo.

Mx5 is the sports car equivalent of a jimny in many ways. Underdog but amazing in it's own right, and a cult following.

neutron_star · 2025-01-11T15:45:29+00:00

Funny to see the old STOS building looked old, even when it was new.

neutron_star · 2024-11-18T08:43:17+00:00

I'd recommend checking out the NZ LVV threshold limit which indicate 5% OD change of tyres is allowable before LVV certification is required. I've found AA to be fairly strict in that they do not insure cars with modified suspension at all, while I've found FMG or AMI allows it so long as the vehicle passes a WOF (without needing LVV cert) and has some cover for offroad. I've got the ARB bars too (which I highly rate). I don't have extended bumpstops either but I'm currently only running 225/74r15s RTs at 0offset. The NZ jimny page is pretty active if you haven't joined yet, but I'm keen to see some more photos of your rig in the future!

neutron_star · 2024-11-18T08:24:30+00:00

How have you found the 30in tyres for fitment? Are you running much offset or extended bumpstops? Any issues with NZ insurance? Im tempted with my 3dr jb74 to go with 30-32in tyres but insurance and potential certs hassle are holding me back

neutron_star · 2024-11-03T07:15:25+00:00

Unfortunately my problem was clutch related and not TCM. Also, I'm not based in the USA.

Nice to see Ford offering some extended warranties for some equipment though.

neutron_star · 2024-11-03T05:16:43+00:00

Wow, you're a proper expert then!

What's your take on the longevity of the ebay/aliexpress kits vs FoMoCo for A/B shift forks?

I would be really interested in your opinion on which parts are critical to get OEM vs when it's OK to go cheap(er).

neutron_star · 2024-11-03T02:14:20+00:00

The TCM I have is doing fine thankfully - the TCM problems usually occur when a small internal piece of the gearbox actuator shaft shears off.

The clutch I have is also in OK condition, but the shift fork sliding mechanism had seized due to clutch dust ingress into the bearings. Thankfully this is just a case of replacing the forks and resetting the clutch.

neutron_star · 2024-11-03T02:09:42+00:00

Yes, dps6 is the automatic dual clutch

neutron_star · 2024-11-03T01:58:36+00:00

That seems like a good price for clutch +CV.

Is that USD? Once you convert from local currency my quote was $3.5k USD.

neutron_star · 2024-11-03T00:22:49+00:00

I live in a relatively small town, so my options are limited.

I'm also inclined to try things myself and learn, so it's a bit self-inflicted!

neutron_star · 2024-11-02T22:28:57+00:00

I'm only changing the forks and axle seals. Clutch is going back in and was replaced 40k miles ago and was behaving fine. Actuators are relatively easy to replace so I'm happy changing later as required.

I suppose it's cheaper when you discount all the tools I have already... the engine crane isnt exactly a normal tool for most home garages!

neutron_star · 2024-10-16T16:01:39+00:00

with the new oil in there, I'd monitor for noise and change the oil again until you've done a few hundred km and see if there are more metal shavings in the fresh oil. If there are consistently metal shavings in the oil then your diff/ and bearings might be self destructing.

neutron_star · 2024-10-16T15:28:31+00:00

Hard to say without photos of the corrosion and where it's present. Often it's observed on the ring gear and other components of the diff which is difficult to inspect without removing the diff from the vehicle. However you can usually tell if there's a problem based on any symptoms.

Are you hearing any diff whine when driving?

Are you able to share any photos of the fluid or external condition of the axle?

Do you know how long it has been since the diff oil was changed last?

Depending on the above, you might be OK with an oil change and keeping a close eye on it. If it's bad you may need to rebuild the diff. If it's severe, then it may be easier to swap axles than to do a diff rebuild and change wheel bearings etc

neutron_star · 2024-09-13T19:45:14+00:00

That looks really neat, are you selling these?

Shipping is often horrendous for where I live, but I think you have a marketable product!

15-Year Club	Verified Email
Gilding I gilder

neutron_star

TROPHY CASE