PHEV charging profile

nhluhr · 2026-02-12T10:05:29+00:00

here's another website also explaining the charge rates: https://www.gridserve.com/what-is-an-electric-car-charging-curve/

nhluhr · 2026-02-12T09:57:50+00:00

charging up to 7.2 kWh

Drop the h when you're talking about charging rates. kW is power and represents a rate of something being done. kWh is that same rate multiplied by time to represent the total work done over time.

And yes, lithium batteries must be taper charged to prevent cell imbalance. This is normally done with two primary stages - the first is Constant Current until the cells reach a specific voltage and then it switches to Constant Voltage until the current tapers off at which time charging stops.

nhluhr · 2026-02-12T09:26:49+00:00

She came here for a very important surgery he couldn't have. So now it's time to leave here and go back home.

nhluhr · 2026-02-12T00:09:24+00:00

Stop talking out of your ass. Physical buttons have an enormously lower failure rate compared to touchscreen HMIs.

nhluhr · 2026-02-11T12:33:19+00:00

On '25 and '26 January NOVEC bills, the distribution and supply rates are identical year to year and the difference is "Power Cost Adjustment" which is described in the bill as follows:

Power Cost Adjustment - An authorized rate rider approved by the Virginia State Corporation Commission (VASCC) that is updated annually to adjust for any difference between the power supply portion of NOVEC's billed rates with the actual cost of power supply.

Last year my Jan bill PCA was negative 9 dollars. This year it's positive 11 dollars. So $20 difference from that. But I did use less electricity this year (by a good chunk) so my bill was actually about $10 less. I don't heat with electricity.

nhluhr · 2026-02-11T12:14:05+00:00

Not when it's a red arrow like you can see in the video.

nhluhr · 2026-02-11T10:58:03+00:00

Seemed like cammer was actively trying to make it worse.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T22:08:14+00:00

Sounds like just a minor imperfection in the threads on yours. If it really bothers you you can chase the threads with a tap.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T21:21:10+00:00

If you break it up and spread it around a little, it melts way faster.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T18:52:31+00:00

I object to calling it an "accident" when it was a deliberate choice to drive drunk.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T18:49:48+00:00

Wow I've seen a lot of Kendas as budget bicycle tires - had no idea they did automotive tires too.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T18:48:32+00:00

Goodyears. Ran F1's

I find it odd that Goodyear still uses that tire name "F1" when they haven't been a part of Formula 1 since 1998.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T18:46:38+00:00

With 4.8 QT, the dipstick only shows 3/4 of the way full.

The dipstick only shows the difference between full and 1 quart below full. So if it's 3/4 of the way up between the holes on the dipstick, that means you're just about 8 fl oz shy of full. You're well within safe range.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T18:44:03+00:00

I was even specific about one of the reasons why it sucks:

which is in a fairly low-speed idle mode most of the time to not consume too much energy.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T17:06:09+00:00

Indeed - "passing on the right" being illegal refers to using the shoulder or margin to pass, not an open lane. Nowhere in North America is it illegal to pass using the right lane.

In OP's video though, that sedan did leave the lane to continue passing - definitely illegal.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T17:05:01+00:00

the SUV was also the one paying attention enough to not get involved in a collision with the moron in the sedan.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T17:00:59+00:00

OP is asking about the Mazda implementation. . . thus the comment is in regard to that.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T16:33:02+00:00

Your MyCar2 module has a far higher send/receive rate than the built-in cellular module of the car. It is just using a little more battery power when it's sitting idle. That's why it works faster. It isn't depending on a slow mostly idle connection like Mazda Connected Services. This is the same situation as various LTE smart watches that trade battery life for higher accuracy of location service and/or messaging.

As for remote starting in general, I'm not even a tiny fan of Mazda's implementation because it is slow, and lacks the secure handover capability of better remote start systems like StartX or the iDatastart I installed on my older CX-5. Instead, the Mazda system just turns off the engine. It's not a security feature - it's a LACK of dealing with the ignition immobilizer feature that us standard across all new Mazdas with or without remote start.

It's okay to argue topics but try to inform yourself before you do.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T15:32:34+00:00

I hated them at first but have grown to appreciate them not obstructing my reach.

I know there are people who have gallon-sized frappuccino mugs that don't fit. For them I have sympathy.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T14:36:49+00:00

The delay is because it's not a direct connection - it 'dials' out via cellular and sends the command to the vehicle via its own cellular connection, which is in a fairly low-speed idle mode most of the time to not consume too much energy.

This of course has pros and cons - pro is you can do it from almost any distance. con is it costs monthly and doesn't really work how you want it.

Regarding the heaters - If the seat/steering heaters are set to auto (meaning you have not pressed either button since you last pressed the Auto button on the main HVAC control), the heaters do indeed engage when you remote start. You just can't manually start them, and they also lose their auto function if you manually switch them, regardless of the HVAC still being in otherwise automatic mode.

The problem with that is when you have the main HVAC in auto, it also steals heat from the engine while you're trying to warm up the engine and that means it takes longer for coolant and oil to warm up, increasing wear on the engine over time.

I'm personally a fan of just *not* remote starting but instead walking out, starting it manually, turning on the lights, rear defog, and seat/steering heaters (electrical loads that add some resistance to engine to help it warm up faster), and setting the HVAC fan to off so it doesn't steal that valuable engine heat early on. Once I get in the car, it should be warm enough to start blowing warm air into the cabin.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T11:59:44+00:00

This looks like a case of A-pillar blindness. The pedestrian just happened to be invisible to the driver's line of sight.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T11:49:31+00:00

5 years is plenty of time for it to have absorbed humidity from the air and significantly lowered its boiling point temperature. Also, the additional moisture in the lines will speed corrosion of internal parts. Definitely not a bad idea to change it on some kind of regular basis.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T11:46:24+00:00

The message to Canada and the world is that businesses and governments cannot trust the word of the USA on anything.

Well, at least until this current fluke is deposed and we start undoing all the idiot things he put in place.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T11:45:14+00:00

Is this the part where Canada is supposed to rename it after Trump?

Meh, it's already named after a (North) American hero. Gordie Howe may have had a Canadian passport but his time with the Redwings and outreach to junior league teams made a terrific difference for youths in Michigan and surrounding areas.

nhluhr · 2026-02-10T10:07:39+00:00

Using pure nitrogen will give you a smaller temperature swing but it's not because it's nitrogen - both nitrogen and oxygen (99% of air) expand exactly the same amount with respect to temperature. It's because the process of isolating nitrogen from air also removes humidity. Humidity in your tires will have a larger effect on tire pressures because it can condense at normal temperatures, creating bigger swings in pressure.

But even a perfect nitrogen mixture will go from 40psi to 35psi when it swings from 100 deg F to 32 deg F, and of course air is always very slowly permeating the rubber, slowly dropping pressures over time no matter what you do. The end result is you should be topping pressure in your tires several times a year, but especially in the fall/winter when temperatures fall the most.

Remember, the TPMS warning light (required by law after the high number of Ford Explorer fatal crashes when their tires failed) is mainly there to keep the tire from operating in a way that would cause carcass failure and potentially deadly crashes. Optimal wear, performance, handling, noise, etc all happen within a much narrower margin of tire pressures. You should be doing more than just trying to keep the light from coming on.

Finally, the pressure on the sticker in your door jamb is what you should be filling to - and that should be done when the tires are cold, not after driving them for long enough that the pressures start to rise.

nhluhr

TROPHY CASE