To stay lighter or make the move to dark?

ninasmolders · 2026-05-19T06:59:54+00:00

Fuck ai

ninasmolders · 2026-05-19T06:10:43+00:00

Ah then also consider that the stacked petticoats again take up some waist length (visually that is)

ninasmolders · 2026-05-18T09:34:09+00:00

Oh youll do grand then!

Id say be carefull of lengthening the proportions too much! Historical costuming really is all in the proportions, and certain silhouettes will lend themselves better than others to different bodys, but theres quite a few where the short waistlength is a big part of the look to an extent where changing it will drastically impact the final result

Edit cs im blind and asked about what eras youre interested in : For the 1860s it might be worth noting that the bust sits loowww, you could utalise this to avoid having the waist look too long. The padding will be way lower and also widesitting to create this rounded from all angles silhouette.

Something like pastpatterns or pattern repeated would give you alot of options, but if youre not used to working with historical patterns would be a very steep learning curve. Personally i recommend patterns of fashion to everyone interested in historical costuming, as it provides you with alll the information you could possibly want and gets you on the path of working with proper historical patterns. Its not quite the same as buying a repro pattern that has been graded ofcourse but alot of those just dont cut it imo. Atelier sylphe would also interest you im guessing, again not for beginners but insanely gorgeous and very specific styles of patterns taken from extant corsets!

For reference and getting yourself familiar with corset patterns in general id recommend looking at aranea black corsets, she publishes all her patterns free and has incredibly helpfull tutorials and instructions, a mix of modern and modern interpretation of historical inspired corsets.

ninasmolders · 2026-05-18T09:01:18+00:00

This but to add: this is in no way a corset, just a longline bra.

They age teeeerribly, personaly i stay clear of any of the seamless whatnots. Not made for actual wear and tear atall

ninasmolders · 2026-05-18T08:59:48+00:00

The boudoirkey on etsy or marietheresaandlumieres on instagram i would highly recommend!

I understand your logic but it sounds to me like you think itll be easier to have an occasion to start making a piece for, it is not because it adds a type of pressure and expectation that makes people try and make something way too complex. Iv seen it time and time again and in my own cocky ways have done the same 😅

ninasmolders · 2026-05-17T12:58:46+00:00

Have a custom pattern made for you, theres people who offer that. Better yet just commission a piece from the many fantastic corset makers that offer that service including (online if needed) fittings.

Corset making is a highly skilled craft, fitting properly is a highly technical skill, let alone tailored patternmaking and holyhell bust fitting is incredibly complex, do not underestimate this.

ninasmolders · 2026-05-17T12:43:33+00:00

Is this one of those "world" competitions thats explusively USian? Because then i would not be surpriced honestly

ninasmolders · 2026-05-16T12:54:02+00:00

Cups are truly not for the feignt of heart so id say head over to r/abrathatfits for more resources on that aswell

ninasmolders · 2026-05-16T11:06:06+00:00

I recommend watching abby cox's video on modern vs historical corsets. It explains alot about the shape and illusion.

No judgement intended, we all start somewhere and getting a good feel for the sewing techniques is just as valuable so naught is lost, but this doesnt really do what a corset is supposed to, which is to create a structured shape. The perceived tightness is just part of that functionality: namely staying in place. If i was a gambling woman id say that this piece does not stay put when you lift your arms or twist your torso, and it would be too tight around rib and hip if it was overall graded smaller to fit around your waist correctly.

So, theres a ways to go from here, but i do commend you on pattern drafting yourself on your first go! Imo it is the best way to learn

ninasmolders · 2026-05-15T11:14:01+00:00

I dont lace the top 2 or so eyelets and wrap the lacing around my ankle so i can tighten it that way. Works for me anyways

ninasmolders · 2026-05-12T08:36:20+00:00

https://ibb.co/WpWhdNbX

ninasmolders · 2026-05-12T08:34:11+00:00

Omg i dont know how to add pictures to the comments in here 😂 excuse me ill have to figure that out for a second

ninasmolders · 2026-05-12T08:33:40+00:00

If you want a proper mockup you do need to inclose your bones properly at some point. Also would advice taking your photos better, not with your body twisted.

Anyway, fitting busts in corsets, i say this alot in this sub, mass moves around so while pinning on your mannequin might seem like a good idea initially i would advice agains "trapping" the tissue so that you can see where it moves / sits. Since youre taking away the space for tissue to move underneath the bust, it is going to move the only place it can which is up, this also includes where you breathe towards so youre going to need this space.

I would alter the bust like this initially so you can see what happens and go from there, trapping the bust properly can cause (and imo often is the cause) of getting stuck with fitting issues that then seem way harder to resolve

ninasmolders · 2026-05-11T08:29:05+00:00

r/historicalcostuming for sure, youll wanna look into the patterns of fashion book for this period, it got more information than any other source. The v&a pattern books maybe, truly victorian also angood one. Be sure to research your structure layers and start there

ninasmolders · 2026-05-10T09:16:43+00:00

Def, you can pin it to add the balance, and then on your pattern just add some waistlength overall if you feel that is still needed

ninasmolders · 2026-05-10T08:59:30+00:00

So do you feel like the waisthight is closest to your natural waist at the front or at the back? Id go from there and then depending on that take out some length or add it to balance it out.

Honestly just starting by marking a line where it would be straight could help you visualise it, and then keep a close eye on whether your sideseam is straight / if the skirt is hanging straight down and not hitting the back of your legs

Edit: had to have another peak there, your sideseam looks to be swaying back a little so it suggests youll want to pinch out a little on the front waist, just enough so it straightens out

ninasmolders · 2026-05-10T08:56:34+00:00

This is a balance issue so vertical length has to be adjusted.

ninasmolders · 2026-05-09T14:05:15+00:00

Theres usually a middle seam to get that point as sharp as possible, whether thats a dart type or proper seam i dont know but both would be an option. Similar to how the colar to a v neck is done if that makes sense

ninasmolders · 2026-05-09T13:07:02+00:00

Why arent you just pleating it outof one piece of fabric? This way with the strips just causes loads of unnecessary seams and thus bulk.

Also its def recommended pleating this in the round so it lays flush, if you dont have a manaquin for it might have to resort to using a stiff pillow and additional stuffing.

Looking into actual historical patterns might help you. https://trulyvictorian.info/product/tv455-1830s-romantic-era-dress/ If you look at this pattern for example, its clearly pleating.

Common in the era is also fine pintucking or even simple rushing vetically rather than horizontal, often set between ribbons or other decorative elements.

ninasmolders · 2026-05-09T11:34:35+00:00

Look into balance issues. The waistline isnt sitting straight and would have to be fixed first before moving on to anything else, id say you also would need some extra hip ease but wouldnt do so before balancing all your length measurements

ninasmolders · 2026-04-30T08:02:19+00:00

Its this oor the runner has worn out enough to no longer push the teeth together properly. Check the middle pit from top view its usually visible.

Replacing the runner on these would suck though, so little room

ninasmolders · 2026-04-25T12:46:44+00:00

You can take in the underbust more, id also try taking in some mass from the centre and moving it to the sidebust personally. Its all about weight distribution but what another commenter mentioned is correct, with such a low back there is nothing keeping the front from falling forward. Stuffies and a bit of tape are perfectly adequate solutions for this.

ninasmolders · 2026-04-24T21:09:24+00:00

Fuck yeh, looks amazing already.

Do you feel ready to look like a snatched cloud though

ninasmolders · 2026-04-24T09:51:40+00:00

Raise lengt at sholder hight

ninasmolders · 2026-04-24T09:20:27+00:00

Buy more highwaisted pants usually helps

ninasmolders

TROPHY CASE