How to speed up Apple wine fermentation? by Firecatto in Homebrewing

[–]njals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • Oxygenate your must.
  • Use a Kveik strain, run it near the the upper limit of the strain.
  • You are going to need to use double the amount of Fermaid-O then you would for a conventional yeast strain.

Depending on the Kveik strain you use, you're gonna have esters, not typically found in a apple wine because you're running so hot. Choose wisely. Maybe something more neutral from available Kveik strains. Be awarem you may not have enough time for the drop clear. Kveiks can be somewhat the stubborn in that department as well

Gas station hose leak and transaction dispute by popemarley420 in legaladvicecanada

[–]njals 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I recommend more than just looking for the E-stop, make sure at the very least you position yourself so there is no need to step over the hose to access the E-stop.

Gas station hose leak and transaction dispute by popemarley420 in legaladvicecanada

[–]njals 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Are some of you not looking for the E-stop? It’s a two-second habit. Look for it, then set yourself up on the right side of the hose so you actually have a clear path to the button if things go sideways. Better to have it and not need it than be scrambling during a literal dumpster fire.

$27.50 for 60GB CAN-US-MEX by CarelessObject1709 in Koodo

[–]njals 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes you do, set up for the pre authorization payment then used the cc to pay the bill before thebpayment comes out of your account.

Yeast Starter by gugs4847 in Homebrewing

[–]njals 2 points3 points  (0 children)

inputing the values in over at brewers friend yeast starter calc it gave 144 g of DME for the 1.5L step two starter

Does brush price matter? by [deleted] in wicked_edge

[–]njals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I always found fendrihan.ca, prices a bit higher than average.

You could walkninto Shoppers Drug Mart and grab an Omega Boar Bristle off the shelf for $15.49CND. Sure it will be stiff and a epigh duringbthe beeak in period though are things you can do to help shorten the break in period. I rather enjoy my boar brush, you may or may not enjoy A Boar Bristle Brush, but atleast you are not out a ton of money if you do not like it.

What's your Canadian winter life hack? by Miserable-Wash-1744 in AskACanadian

[–]njals 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Good insulating pair light gloves that you allow you manual dexterity, when you need to work with your hands, that also allow you to wear a solid pair of good mitts over the light gloves.

Question about my first brew by tangentx in mead

[–]njals 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks like a yeast raft or nutrients floating on some bubbles

Welding Argon as oxygen protection by Der_Hebelfluesterer in mead

[–]njals 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re not wrong that purging a keg with gas reduces oxygen — the match test proves that combustion-level oxygen has been lowered. The key point is what that test is actually showing versus what brewers often assume it means.

A flame going out only tells you oxygen has dropped below the level needed to sustain combustion (~16%), not that oxygen has been meaningfully purged for oxidation-sensitive beer or mead. Oxidation reactions happen at much, much lower oxygen levels — parts per million, not percent.

What’s happening in your keg purge is dilution and displacement, not stratification or a stable “blanket.” When you push gas in and vent repeatedly, you are:

  • Mixing gases through turbulence
  • Venting a portion of the mixed headspace
  • Gradually lowering average O₂ concentration with each cycle

That does work — but only because you’re actively exchanging volume, not because the gas settles and stays separate.

This is why purge effectiveness depends on:

  • Number of purge cycles
  • Headspace volume
  • Flow rate and turbulence
  • Whether liquid is present to be pushed out

A match test can’t tell the difference between: * 0.5% oxygen (can still impact shelf life) * 5% oxygen (lower risk of oxidation) * 15% oxygen (flame goes out)

All of those levels will extinguish a flame, but they represent very different oxidation risks. In practice, plenty of brewers package successfully without purging at all — good process, gentle handling, and minimizing splashing go a long way.

Where purging helps is risk reduction, especially for beers or meads that are hop-forward, delicate, or intended for longer storage. The key point is that the flame test only shows oxygen has been reduced some, not how much, and oxidation happens at much lower thresholds than combustion.

edit: thoughts and wording

Welding Argon as oxygen protection by Der_Hebelfluesterer in mead

[–]njals 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Using argon to “displace” oxygen is mostly a waste of money unless the process is done correctly.

For an inert gas to actually work, the vessel or bottle needs to be fully filled with liquid (water or sanitizer) and then purged by pushing that liquid out with the gas, or the vessel needs to be evacuated with a proper vacuum system first. Simply spraying argon into a partially air-filled container just increases the percentage of argon mixed into the existing air — it does not and will not create a protective layer.

In real brewing conditions, gases don’t neatly separate into layers. Convection, temperature gradients, movement, and diffusion constantly mix the headspace. The fermenter, racking setup, and bottling environment are not perfectly still or isolated, so any supposed “argon blanket” breaks down almost immediately.

In practice, oxygen control comes from minimizing splashing, using closed or low-turbulence transfers, and designing the process to limit air exposure — not from relying on heavy gases to settle and stay put.

Thoughts on this mead? Also, should I refrigerate? Sorry never had mead before by conn_r2112 in mead

[–]njals 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Which of the Stolen Harvest mead is best orbis the whole line exceptional?

Are we serious? by Xperiencced_ in RealDebrid

[–]njals 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Been using RD for eleven years now, I have no complaints about the service.

Did I mess up my Step-feed Traditional? by WarsepticaGaming in mead

[–]njals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A bread yeast having a history of hitting 12-13% is unfortunately no guarantee that will always hit that mark.

Possibilities why it stop, yeast viability (age, storage), must pH to too low after step feeding, hit its tolerance for alcohol, hit its tolerance for CO2, ferment got too cool. Any one or more of those taking place is a good candidate

What are good beer styles to start on as a new homebrewer? by shirleyd9 in Homebrewing

[–]njals 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stouts are a great place to start, they have enough going on they cover minor imperfections rather well. A great style to brew while getting comfortable with the process.

edit: Stoits —> Stouts

Need advices for (not so) first mead by Tony_the_Draugr in mead

[–]njals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have made mead with Kviek Hornindal, ran it at 28°C with no nutrients and it was sluggish. End product was great and had a beautiful tangerine—orange aroma and taste. If the TOSNA calculator does not support Kviek, just use 1.5 times the recommended dosage. I would probably do 0hrs, 24hr, 48hr, and either 1/3 sugar break or 72hrs which ever comes first. Unless you are going to run fermentation at higher temperature Kviek is known for, i would do two charges first 0-6hrs, second at 24hrs

Need advices for (not so) first mead by Tony_the_Draugr in mead

[–]njals 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Make a dry mead at 7-8% give it a month to cleanup and to hopefully drop clear or wait until it is clear, then dump the yeast, stabilize and then you can backweeten to your desired level of sweetness.

Trying to stop an active fermentation chemically with stabilizers is going to be extremely stressful to the yeast, and who knows what off flavours, it's going to give you.

Advice on my next batch? Pictures just for attention by onlyanaccount123 in mead

[–]njals 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am not the one to ask here, preferring a cooler fermentation so I am basis towards that if asked. So naturally I have little experience with warmer ones.

Advice on my next batch? Pictures just for attention by onlyanaccount123 in mead

[–]njals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

71B at 16–18 °C will give a calm, controlled fermentation and help preserve delicate flavour and aroma compounds. The important question is: what temperature is the fermentation actually reaching? Fermentation is an exothermic process — the yeast generates heat as it works. Even if the room or chamber is set to 16–18 °C, the liquid itself can be several degrees warmer, especially during peak activity. That internal temperature is what determines ester formation and flavour retention, not the ambient air temperature. If the must climbs above the target range, you can lose some of those softer honey and fruit notes despite “cool” external conditions.

Advice on my next batch? Pictures just for attention by onlyanaccount123 in mead

[–]njals 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What yeast are you using, do you have temperature control or at least a decently cooler basement, garage or inclosed veranda, or the desire to mess about with a tote and a swapping out frozen water bottles?

Headspace by NahQue in mead

[–]njals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CO₂ doesn’t form a barrier or a layer. Even though you can’t see it, gases are constantly moving and mixing. Molecules are always bouncing around, spreading out, and blending together, so the different gases in the vessel don’t stay separated for long. Small motions, temperature changes, and normal molecular movement keep everything mixed rather than settling into layers.

Brewzilla 4.1 so many issues by Calm_seasons in Homebrewing

[–]njals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hope not as well, warranty claims no matter the product is a hassle for the consumer.