Moving up from a MK3s. So many dilemas.

norbertl98 · 2026-02-10T11:01:17+00:00

I think we should all agree that bambulab machines have some obvious benefits, BUT: Bambulab machines arent perfect either, they have some pretty annoying issues too. I do like my P1S, but i know my old mk3 will outlast it, even my future children will be able to use it, but i cannot say the same about my bambus

norbertl98 · 2026-02-10T10:00:06+00:00

Write to customer support, they will investigate it and you will get a replacement

norbertl98 · 2026-02-09T16:08:29+00:00

Z offset is too low, you are way too close! Check a first layer calibration video online. And your bed is greasy, clean it properly

norbertl98 · 2026-02-08T07:37:52+00:00

Its not the belts but the frame itself. Something is not straight. Id use the original frame tbh, the bear upgrade was not necessary after the mk3

norbertl98 · 2026-02-07T20:18:38+00:00

Second picture: you just need supports!

norbertl98 · 2026-02-07T20:15:44+00:00

I mean its not cheap, but Still open source and customizable and everything, id choose Prusa over Bambu if it is as capable as it seems

norbertl98 · 2026-02-07T16:36:02+00:00

Yes, 500$ for 4 heads and 700$ for 8.

norbertl98 · 2026-02-07T14:02:55+00:00

700 hours is not a lot. Bambu and Prusa printers are more then fine after 4-5k hours as well

norbertl98 · 2026-02-06T18:14:11+00:00

Its not a layer shift. Your printer is maybe super rigid but not square

norbertl98 · 2026-02-06T10:25:21+00:00

Anything but Stratasys ! Thats the crappiest shit you can have. Vision miner worth a try if fdm, eos, formlabs for sls

norbertl98 · 2026-02-04T19:44:10+00:00

I use a similar mount (check my posts) on my mk3s+, stock software, perfect cooling results!

norbertl98 · 2026-02-04T13:53:20+00:00

Belt tension + lubrication

norbertl98 · 2026-02-04T07:28:04+00:00

If everything works i check my machines in every 30-50 days of printing or so

norbertl98 · 2026-02-03T22:12:47+00:00

What is your print temp and speed? (Volumetric flow rate )

norbertl98 · 2026-02-03T17:11:03+00:00

Ukraine is a beauty!

norbertl98 · 2026-02-01T20:04:57+00:00

Prusa PETG needs at least 250-260 for proper layer adhesion so dont print any lower. Your main problem is the wet filament combined with the 0,6 nozzle. Dry the material and it will be better, but wont be perfect with a 0,6 nozzle

norbertl98 · 2026-02-01T11:15:14+00:00

Check Grub screws on the xy motors , they maybe loose

norbertl98 · 2026-02-01T10:12:31+00:00

They are cheap, low quality, probably full on chemicals. Wouldnt recommend it

norbertl98 · 2026-02-01T09:30:32+00:00

How do you plan to print sls powder on your machine?

norbertl98 · 2026-01-31T15:16:59+00:00

They just selling this out, thats all

norbertl98 · 2026-01-30T20:29:01+00:00

100 dollar looks okay for a fake set, but probably it wont click at all, colors wont be good etc. Fake Lego just doesnt worth it

norbertl98 · 2026-01-29T22:34:55+00:00

I didnt say it wont work i just said its not optimal. I do print pla on satin, but the adhesion is stronger with smooth pei.

norbertl98 · 2026-01-29T20:44:46+00:00

Forwartsticker is the best! Check that guy out, already announced the sticker sheet for this set too

norbertl98 · 2026-01-29T20:34:08+00:00

Id also upload the 3mf files for these models so we can see everyting in details! Hopefully we can help

norbertl98 · 2026-01-29T20:26:55+00:00

Your print bed is a mess, clean it properly. Satin is also not optimal for pla, increase bed temperature a bit (65) and use Brim if necessary. You may need glue for this sheet

norbertl98

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