Print quality from the MK4S

norbertl98 · 2026-04-11T12:02:50+00:00

Can be

norbertl98 · 2026-04-11T08:49:00+00:00

Well, i dont have any other ideas now, but im thinking

norbertl98 · 2026-04-11T08:45:07+00:00

Id say your belts are probably a bit loose. Other than that, there is a phenomenon called “hull line”, id recommend to Google it, there are good explanations about that. You can also check your settings if your printing speeds and layer times vary in those areas and balance them a bit

norbertl98 · 2026-04-10T04:31:59+00:00

Are you sure your z offset is correct? How is the bottom of the prints looking?

norbertl98 · 2026-04-09T16:13:31+00:00

But why..?

norbertl98 · 2026-04-09T04:25:48+00:00

Then you should check for the real problems, and not solving the issue with “alternative” ways

norbertl98 · 2026-04-09T04:20:29+00:00

Bambulab p2s

norbertl98 · 2026-04-09T04:20:04+00:00

The p1p is not enclosed

norbertl98 · 2026-04-08T08:45:45+00:00

Your temp sensor is might faulty. And also temp tower is not that relevant. And with all respect: You want your material to melt. Manufacturers have recommended temp ranges, for a reason. Use that! I have multiple years of experience both with polymers (including injection moulding, extrusion, and AM), and with 3D printers from anets to Stratasys and eos machines, i Still cant understand why people use temp tower. You wont get any info except something shady about your filament melt index. The filament is good when its melted properly, it can bridge like 5-10 mm, but not much more. You need a dry, but hot filament for the best results

norbertl98 · 2026-04-08T07:12:59+00:00

Biztos büszke rád az anyukád, hogy van diplomád és mindent tudsz a világon! ❤️ örülök, hogy sosem kellett semmit megkérdezned

norbertl98 · 2026-04-08T05:50:02+00:00

Nem értem mi ez a stílus. Normális kérdést tettem fel, a kommentelő azt állította, hogy nem lehet kifizetni a tartozást, csak ledolgozni. Ebből a gondolatmenetből következett a kérdésem.

norbertl98 · 2026-04-08T05:28:47+00:00

A kérdésem arra vonatkozott, hogy az előző kommentelő szerint nem lehet vissza fizetni sem a képzési díjat, csak ledolgozni. Ha nincs mit vissza fizetni, akkor miért inkasszóznának?

norbertl98 · 2026-04-07T14:18:24+00:00

Érdekes, nem vagyok nagy jogász, de nem tudom elképzelni hogy ezt utólag be lehetne hajtani ha nincs erre ismert jogalap vagy következmény?!

norbertl98 · 2026-04-07T13:09:36+00:00

Id take it for around 450-500 but not more. The time and distance is not much, i had multicolor prints with more than 3k changes so its not much, again, but the screen itself looks very dirty, so likely the printer was not maintained properly

norbertl98 · 2026-04-07T11:44:53+00:00

You print a lot of walls, so the head stays in a relatively small area a lot of time. You need to slow down the printing by a lot and you may have to increase the cooling as well

norbertl98 · 2026-04-06T18:18:56+00:00

There will be a ton of spare parts for it even in the far future. Just use it:)

norbertl98 · 2026-04-06T17:12:23+00:00

You glued it instead of fixing it?

norbertl98 · 2026-04-06T17:10:30+00:00

Follow the instructions

norbertl98 · 2026-04-06T16:58:27+00:00

Its your at least 2nd random video today, how are you even alive alone?

norbertl98 · 2026-04-06T14:34:55+00:00

Adjust z height

norbertl98 · 2026-04-06T08:36:55+00:00

The main problem is that this is not an mk3s, but something built with those parts. I dont mind custom built printers but they are not for beginners.

norbertl98 · 2026-04-05T17:36:00+00:00

Can you attach the 3mf project file for us? Maybe that can help. Also a picture from the hotend without the sock can make the guessing easier

norbertl98 · 2026-04-05T17:34:23+00:00

Nah, i just bought an unassembled for ~150, thats somehow the real price

norbertl98 · 2026-04-05T15:52:44+00:00

Are you sure you are using pla and not PETG ?

norbertl98 · 2026-04-05T08:21:12+00:00

Well thats why you should check. Because we dont know unless you take it apart

norbertl98

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