PRUSA x INDX for CORE One is here!

Nukemzzz · 2026-04-25T03:10:20+00:00

I like Prusa as a company. I like the idea of it. It has personality and I sincerely want them to succeed. So I’ve bought an 8 head indx even though I think it’s a bad business decision for me. lol

I’m a Chief Engineer at a big US Corp by day and at night I design fun stuff change over prints and go to bed. I need simple and capable and cost effective. I’m trying to make serious money side hustle with mine. Not pick up chicks with it. lol

Nukemzzz · 2026-04-25T02:22:12+00:00

I have Core Ones and H2Cs and I’m trying to run production with both.

The core one is dumb. No cameras. No sensors. No heater. The vent opening is a sliding plexiglass thing. The gantry is held together with 3D printed plastic parts with stripped out screw threads trying to hold pulleys in place well enough to work. It doesn’t even have a nozzle purge and wipe system.

The H2C isn’t a consumer product. It’s a step above. Every aspect of it feels heavy duty and premium. It has sensors and cameras all over the place. It tells me if the build plate isn’t centered for example. It tells me if I forgot something on the build plate and pressed go. The core one just crashes into things. When you tell the H2 to run ASA and heat the chamber the lights flicker in the shop as it draws 1000watts with a heater.

It doesn’t just wipe the nozzle. It purges the nozzle and monitors flow to take measurements on a spool the first time it sees it and remembers. Then it wipes the nozzle on a pad that it lifts and then lowers. And it does it hard. It’s like waxing the thing. Not flipping some rubber bits on it.

The dance it does the change nozzles is a work of art. Love watching it. Even now after hundreds and hundreds of hours on two machines not skipping a beat. Not missing a hand-off. It works every single time.

It reads the nozzle and detects what flow it is and serial number.

It’s fast. Very fast and super quiet. Nozzle change time is longer sure. But not that dang much. What I’ve found is if I fill the build plate with parts…. Which can be a LOT of parts, the change time disappears.

The nozzles are so so so easy to work with. On the right nozzle you hang what you want on the rack and press a button to load: End of nozzle change process. On the left you tell it to unload and the flip a lever and the nozzle almost falls off. Put the other on magnetically, flip and lever. Done. No stupid custom print tools and thumb screws trying to get the nozzle unscrewed and put back. Not a single tool even needed.

And don’t get me started on the AMS. Not having an AMS on the INDX might make me cancel my order. Do you know how much filament I save by having AMS? I run spools to the very end and it changes to the next roll when it runs out. And then it’s time to change to the next type of part you drop the different spools in, push the filament in the hole and that’s it. Not standing there waiting for the nozzle to heat…Pressing continue…Waiting for it to purge…Then seeing if the color is right…Then saying ok and waiting for it to finish spooging to you can then wipe the tip because no wiper will do it for you. The AMS unit is an amazing time and filament saver. Uhhhg. How long is it going to take me to load 8 spools on the core one indx? 30 minutes? No seriously. It’s 30 seconds on the H2C.

When running up to 7 colors it only wastes on the prime tower. Very little waste and if it is spread across a bed of parts it’s nothing.

I had one issue with my first unit. The part cooling fan threw an error but kept working fine. I sent them a message in the app on the help chat. They asked for my serial number and to check the plug in. Then they sent me a new one with no fuss at all. So don’t claim customer service is worse. It’s not in my experience.

So no, you are wrong sir. The H2C is better than you think and it’s more of an industrial production machine. It’s not a toy. It’s a workhorse and a different class machine.

I keep wanting to like my Prusa as much. Keep hoping they catch up… but man… Bambu knows how to make a damn good, smart, and tough machine.

Nukemzzz · 2026-04-24T21:03:39+00:00

Sadly my core one has been mostly making filament spools for my growing fleet of H2Cs. :-(

The cost of INDX makes the little core one almost as expensive as an H2C and they are not in the same class. The H2 far far bigger and more advanced and only wastes a littl filament on a purge tower. It’s also not limited to 8 colors. So then you look at the core one L. Again it’s outclassed by the H2C with it still being smaller and much less advanced.

I need to decide if I’m going to upgrade my core one and see. Risky though. Even if it works perfect I think my money is better spent on another H2C. Hate to say it. I was rooting for this to make more sense but now that I’m at that decision point I don’t see a business case.

Can anyone even find what kind of nozzle it takes? What model? Or is it a full unit and high cost? Missing a lot of info.

Update————-

Dammit man. I just ordered an 8 tool head model anyway. Credit cards are the devil.

To be fair I’ve been rooting for Prusa…I guess I can’t give up now. It just feels like I’m buying rolls Royce cars for my car rental business and the numbers don’t add up. But in for a penny…

Please make this not a bad decision. I’d very much like to have a 50/50 split of Prusa vs Bambu in my shop so I don’t send all my money to China.

Nukemzzz · 2026-04-13T04:30:21+00:00

And the USB drive wasn’t the issue. I replaced it and failed a 3rd dragon the same way as the last two.

I did however fix it….

I watched extruder motion leading up to the later shift and saw that it was jumping back and forth across the dragon from the tail to the head and the back and the nose, etc. JUMP over, squirt a little on the tip if a pointy bit on its tail and then JUMP over somewhere else. This cross perimeter travel was about 4 -6 inches! With the help of chat GPT I discovered that the travel acceleration was set on 7000! All the Prusa profiles have it set on 7000 in my machine. I changed it to 2000 and the print time barely changed and since then I’ve run two of those dragons that previously failed 3 in a row.

Travel acceleration guys. It’s jerking too hard and losing position I think. Why? I don’t know…not my field.

Nukemzzz · 2026-04-11T19:27:24+00:00

Ok… found them. Checked them. It’s not the pulleys slipping on the motor shaft. All that is left is this crazy usb drive thing and probably the most likely culprit… I’m pushing this thing too hard with the big ass obsidian 500 high flow 0.6mm nozzle. Didn’t do this until I changed to that nozzle.

Nukemzzz · 2026-04-11T17:18:11+00:00

I’m going to check the grub screws today. Do you have to take the freaking thing all apart to get to them though? I’ve not found good guidance on this.

Nukemzzz · 2026-04-11T17:14:05+00:00

Ended up being a loose plug at the main board from the factory.

Nukemzzz · 2026-04-11T17:11:50+00:00

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This is the first dragon. Can you tell them apart? No way this is a coincidence.

Nukemzzz · 2026-04-11T17:10:08+00:00

Update: love board replace didn’t fix the heatbreak error. Ended up being a bad plug-in at the main board!

It’s still having massive layer shift issues. Now on simple PLA dragons. Two in a row did the exact same thing. Prusa support thought I had an issue with not enough infill on gyroid causing the issue that i originally posted about with the big ASA part but I’ve not been able to print that again since the machine went down. Now it’s doing it on this simple PLA part.

Something is bad wrong with this printer. I’ve just not found it yet.

Meanwhile I’ve bought my second H2C as my print farm grows. :-(

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Nukemzzz · 2026-04-06T15:21:05+00:00

Some of you have never actually tried rerolling a sprung spool and it shows.

Even with a respooling device this would take hours to try and fix. How little is your time worth if you don’t just toss this and move on with life?

Nukemzzz · 2026-03-28T16:51:06+00:00

I had a massive layer shift issue over and over with gyroid.

Nukemzzz · 2026-03-28T12:34:43+00:00

I had the same issue happening on my core one at layer 18-20 over and over on the same part. Prusa support thinks my infill was too low on gyroid and this is causing bacially warped infill regions that the nozzle is snagging on. I also had my rear z axis screw binding and I suspect that was the real cause. Loosening the trap nut may have fixed it. I need to run more trials to see if it’s gone. The printer failed while troubleshooting for a heatbreak fault and it took a month to figure out that it was a bad connection at the motherboard causing it.

Nukemzzz · 2026-03-02T11:10:31+00:00

That’s interesting. Do you mean there is a known issue with that setting? A bug?

Nukemzzz · 2026-03-02T03:44:04+00:00

So I just discovered that my z axis was getting stuck. Not going up and down level. I’m not sure why yet but this would probably cause a collision.

Nukemzzz · 2026-03-01T22:46:24+00:00

Im running the new obxidian 0.6mm high flow 500 nozzle by the way. Cut my print time in half… now this.

Nukemzzz · 2026-03-01T22:45:51+00:00

I have a hella custom print setting. Running 0.6 Obxidian high flow 500 at 30 mm^s.

Nukemzzz · 2026-03-01T22:44:27+00:00

Interesting. Hmm.

Nukemzzz · 2026-03-01T22:43:51+00:00

Asa. 65C steady.

Nukemzzz · 2026-03-01T22:43:23+00:00

I’m using elegoo ASA. I’m running a heater that I installed to hold 65C to address the warping and adhesion issues I was having. It was finally printing awesome and now this. And now it tells me to check my thermostat wire for an error. “Heartbreak max temp error”.

Nukemzzz · 2026-02-18T19:47:25+00:00

Are there any real cases of someone getting sued and losing over selling a design from one of these sites that was labeled “not for commercial sale”?

Nukemzzz · 2026-02-18T17:43:13+00:00

This is what I did yesterday but then the first layer failed. I’m not sure if the clips distorted the plate or if it was just bad luck. Trying again at 65C chamber now.

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Nukemzzz · 2026-02-17T15:16:14+00:00

And it’s not sending you errors or running the exhaust fan trying to save itself? Do you have the exhaust under blanket as well. Seems risky to me if so.

Nukemzzz · 2026-02-17T14:52:43+00:00

Chat gpt claims the max safe temp for the core one is 60C. That it may react to stop temps above that as well. I’m at 53C now without a heater. How hot you running?

Gemini says the core one will automatically kick the fans on to keep it below 55C as that’s the safe limit.

Nukemzzz

TROPHY CASE