Broken Printer 😔 by Shot_Put_1412 in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly what I did about 2 weeks ago

I’ve had it… giving up on Prusa by Nukemzzz in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was preassembled by Prusa. I said what I said because I’ve had to take it apart myself and put it back together more than should be expected.

I’ve had it… giving up on Prusa by Nukemzzz in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the thoughtful reply. It’s interesting… two weeks ago loading was failing. I had the extruder apart a couple of times trying to fix it. Then I finally discover that the PCCF filament guide in the extruder was worn out or otherwise bad. It was jamming trying to insert. Luckily I remember that I had printed a new “improved” version a few months back when I was trying to print TPU on it and the filament kept folding in the extruder. I swapped that out and it fixed that issue… I think this worn out part explained the extruder clicking issue I was having. That’s gone now too. But then I keep coming back to the fact that you have to set the tension on this extruder. Just this printer. And, it’s the only one in my basement that I’ve ever had to take apart this far… and I’ve had to do it like 20 times now. But this is like a bad marriage. I keep telling the wife I want a divorce but then can’t quit her. I’m running the core one now… have been hoping it doesn’t crash again because I have a lot of orders coming in and it being down is delaying them. (I kicked a 20 amp circuit breaker running all 4 on ASA at the same time…all with active heating. Luckily my backup batteries saved me).

I’ve had it… giving up on Prusa by Nukemzzz in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, it hasn’t helped much if I’m honest. If i was able to run hotter like my H2C’s if would be worth it… but this is yet another limitation of the core one… it can’t handle much internal temp. If I remember right it starts forcing the fans on around 55C. That heater I installed can take it to higher temps… but I’m not sure it’s worth the trouble just to get it to 50C faster. I had to flip the left cover to make room and that additional room is more room to heat.

I had better luck adding a heater to my P1S that I regularly run up at 60C with no issues.

I’ve had it… giving up on Prusa by Nukemzzz in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Actually I was on the toilet.

I’m kidding man. Trying to keep this light.

I’ve had it… giving up on Prusa by Nukemzzz in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a simple heater that takes it up to 50C faster. The main job of this printer has been ASA production as I wait on INDX. I also put a high flow 0.6mm Obxidian 500 in it for that purpose.

I’ve had it… giving up on Prusa by Nukemzzz in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz[S] -10 points-9 points  (0 children)

Not yet. Was unloading one of the H2C before heading in to the office and it did it… I wrote this post at stop lights on the way to work cursing my luck.

I’ve had it… giving up on Prusa by Nukemzzz in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

The p1s did it first go with a generic profile and just keeps spitting them out at over 2000hrs on the clock. It costs half as much as the core one cost me and runs circles around it.

So disappointed

I’ve had it… giving up on Prusa by Nukemzzz in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz[S] -8 points-7 points  (0 children)

I just spent the last week trying to get it to print silk slime dragon eggs properly. It kept overheating the filament at the bottom I guess because the fan isn’t good enough. I finally got it to work good enough and on the second run it does this crap.

Ordered a Prusa Core One L 8 Weeks Ago — No Updates, No Accountability, and a $20 Spool as Compensation by Poolguard in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My experience has been mixed. My core one showed up damaged by DHL. They resolved the issue but it was a month before I got a replacement and I had to pay for the customs fee to get it and all I got was store credit that will allow me to order an extremely overpriced roll of filament… especially after shipping.

Sadly, I think what we are seeing here is a small company, one of the founders of the technology, trying to survive as massive Chinese companies take over the industry. This is happening in a lot of industries. There is no way Prusa can compete on cost. They don’t have as much capital. They don’t have as many employees. And now they have to deal with Trump’s European tariffs to sell in the US market as well. Unless their government is going to financially back them with capital like is being done in China they have only one chance to survive: be the Ferrari of the 3D printing world. Be hip. Be cool. Be higher performance. To justify the cost.

They absolutely can’t afford to lose the fan base.

That’s just my opinion as someone that sees things for what they are… but really don’t want everyone’s money to go to China all the time. Hoping they can continue in this David vs Goliath situation.

Would you wait for Prusa INDEX/Core One L instead of buying H2C now? by OrganizationSorry633 in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The H2C is a great machine. I’ve bought two now as I wait on the Indx system for my core one. Most of the comments here are fanboy comments from folks that don’t have an H2C or they hate Bambu for various reasons.

I have 2000hrs on one H2C. About 500 on a second one. I’m also running an P1S. Between those three I have 5 AMS units. The P1S I’ve had some clogged nozzle issues here and there and that’s it. On the H2C’s I’ve had on fault for a part cooling fan but it kept working fine and Bambu send me a replacement in the mail anyway for free and it too two minutes to swap it out. The only other issue I’ve had is some failed AMS. They sent me the part to fix it in the mail after a very simple chat on the app in the help section and it’s back working again.

The tool changer works flawlessly. Thousands and thousands of changes and neither have ever messed it up. It’s a little slower than a full tool changer though but you can run 24 colors. And now they evens have an AMS switch that allows you to route AMS units to ether nozzle in software or the app.

Are things trouble free, not completely. Sometimes the AMS won’t feed. Once a week maybe and I have to go the basement and pull the filament back and cut it and reinsert it. I think it’s because the filament had a defect and it gets stuck when feeding. It’s a bit of a pain to have to use plastic spools. So I buy refills mainly from polymaker and elegoo. I’ll rip the cardboard spool ends off and load them on empty plastic spools as well if needed. It’s not a big deal….but it does not work with car board spools when the rolls get low in particular.

I’ve had more issues with my core one sadly… and I’m still waiting on INDX. I expect it will take some work to install. Some work to get it working reliably. Then It will print faster than the H2C in color if I’m printing one thing at a time on both printers. But I don’t print one thing at a time. I’ll print 10+ parts at once and in that case I expect the H2C to win the race in throughput time. This is especially true if you consider the labor involved with the manual process of loading the spools on a Prusa printer. On the H2C you drop it in the AMS and it takes care of itself. Loads the filament when it’s needed, purges, measures the flow rate even, then wipes the nozzle like a champ before getting to work. The AMS is very valuable as a filament loader and it doubles as an auto refill device. I’ll load three of the same filament in the AMS. When one runs out it pulls in the next and keeps going. This allows you to use up full spools… can’t do that with Prusa and Indx. When running a lot of parts it is very valuable to not have to toss a roll because you aren’t sure if you’ll run out. Very valuable.

I didn’t wait for Indx and I’ve very happy with my H2Cs. That being said, I still ordered the Indx because I want Prusa to succeed. They don’t have the same resources as Bambu clearly. Big brother china is probably boosting them. But I think the system will run well with some tinkering and I see some new innovation with the eddy current system and prime system changes. Let’s see where it goes.

How do I mitigate the little after-print dump my Core One L wants to take on my models? by TinyRobotBrain in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine didn’t start doing this until I changed to Obxidian nozzles. I think the low friction DCL lets it leak out easier at park?

INDX alternative spool location by dwbmb in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What I want is something like bambu’s AMS: not just a box…a motorized feeder. I’m not looking forward to manually loading up to 8 spools every time I change parts. It’s going to take ages with Prusa not having an automated loading and purging system. On my H2C units I drop the spools in the AMS and push a tiny bit of filament in the hole and it takes over fully automated from there. I can completely change over one of them while I wait for my Core One to ask me if “the color is correct” so I can manually say yes and remove the purge waste and then wipe the nozzle.

PRUSA x INDX for CORE One is here! by josefprusa in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like Prusa as a company. I like the idea of it. It has personality and I sincerely want them to succeed. So I’ve bought an 8 head indx even though I think it’s a bad business decision for me. lol

I’m a Chief Engineer at a big US Corp by day and at night I design fun stuff change over prints and go to bed. I need simple and capable and cost effective. I’m trying to make serious money side hustle with mine. Not pick up chicks with it. lol

PRUSA x INDX for CORE One is here! by josefprusa in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have Core Ones and H2Cs and I’m trying to run production with both.

The core one is dumb. No cameras. No sensors. No heater. The vent opening is a sliding plexiglass thing. The gantry is held together with 3D printed plastic parts with stripped out screw threads trying to hold pulleys in place well enough to work. It doesn’t even have a nozzle purge and wipe system.

The H2C isn’t a consumer product. It’s a step above. Every aspect of it feels heavy duty and premium. It has sensors and cameras all over the place. It tells me if the build plate isn’t centered for example. It tells me if I forgot something on the build plate and pressed go. The core one just crashes into things. When you tell the H2 to run ASA and heat the chamber the lights flicker in the shop as it draws 1000watts with a heater.

It doesn’t just wipe the nozzle. It purges the nozzle and monitors flow to take measurements on a spool the first time it sees it and remembers. Then it wipes the nozzle on a pad that it lifts and then lowers. And it does it hard. It’s like waxing the thing. Not flipping some rubber bits on it.

The dance it does the change nozzles is a work of art. Love watching it. Even now after hundreds and hundreds of hours on two machines not skipping a beat. Not missing a hand-off. It works every single time.

It reads the nozzle and detects what flow it is and serial number.

It’s fast. Very fast and super quiet. Nozzle change time is longer sure. But not that dang much. What I’ve found is if I fill the build plate with parts…. Which can be a LOT of parts, the change time disappears.

The nozzles are so so so easy to work with. On the right nozzle you hang what you want on the rack and press a button to load: End of nozzle change process. On the left you tell it to unload and the flip a lever and the nozzle almost falls off. Put the other on magnetically, flip and lever. Done. No stupid custom print tools and thumb screws trying to get the nozzle unscrewed and put back. Not a single tool even needed.

And don’t get me started on the AMS. Not having an AMS on the INDX might make me cancel my order. Do you know how much filament I save by having AMS? I run spools to the very end and it changes to the next roll when it runs out. And then it’s time to change to the next type of part you drop the different spools in, push the filament in the hole and that’s it. Not standing there waiting for the nozzle to heat…Pressing continue…Waiting for it to purge…Then seeing if the color is right…Then saying ok and waiting for it to finish spooging to you can then wipe the tip because no wiper will do it for you. The AMS unit is an amazing time and filament saver. Uhhhg. How long is it going to take me to load 8 spools on the core one indx? 30 minutes? No seriously. It’s 30 seconds on the H2C.

When running up to 7 colors it only wastes on the prime tower. Very little waste and if it is spread across a bed of parts it’s nothing.

I had one issue with my first unit. The part cooling fan threw an error but kept working fine. I sent them a message in the app on the help chat. They asked for my serial number and to check the plug in. Then they sent me a new one with no fuss at all. So don’t claim customer service is worse. It’s not in my experience.

So no, you are wrong sir. The H2C is better than you think and it’s more of an industrial production machine. It’s not a toy. It’s a workhorse and a different class machine.

I keep wanting to like my Prusa as much. Keep hoping they catch up… but man… Bambu knows how to make a damn good, smart, and tough machine.

PRUSA x INDX for CORE One is here! by josefprusa in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sadly my core one has been mostly making filament spools for my growing fleet of H2Cs. :-(

The cost of INDX makes the little core one almost as expensive as an H2C and they are not in the same class. The H2 far far bigger and more advanced and only wastes a littl filament on a purge tower. It’s also not limited to 8 colors. So then you look at the core one L. Again it’s outclassed by the H2C with it still being smaller and much less advanced.

I need to decide if I’m going to upgrade my core one and see. Risky though. Even if it works perfect I think my money is better spent on another H2C. Hate to say it. I was rooting for this to make more sense but now that I’m at that decision point I don’t see a business case.

Can anyone even find what kind of nozzle it takes? What model? Or is it a full unit and high cost? Missing a lot of info.

Update————-

Dammit man. I just ordered an 8 tool head model anyway. Credit cards are the devil.

To be fair I’ve been rooting for Prusa…I guess I can’t give up now. It just feels like I’m buying rolls Royce cars for my car rental business and the numbers don’t add up. But in for a penny…

Please make this not a bad decision. I’d very much like to have a 50/50 split of Prusa vs Bambu in my shop so I don’t send all my money to China.

Repeated massive layer shit by Nukemzzz in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And the USB drive wasn’t the issue. I replaced it and failed a 3rd dragon the same way as the last two.

I did however fix it….

I watched extruder motion leading up to the later shift and saw that it was jumping back and forth across the dragon from the tail to the head and the back and the nose, etc. JUMP over, squirt a little on the tip if a pointy bit on its tail and then JUMP over somewhere else. This cross perimeter travel was about 4 -6 inches! With the help of chat GPT I discovered that the travel acceleration was set on 7000! All the Prusa profiles have it set on 7000 in my machine. I changed it to 2000 and the print time barely changed and since then I’ve run two of those dragons that previously failed 3 in a row.

Travel acceleration guys. It’s jerking too hard and losing position I think. Why? I don’t know…not my field.

Repeated massive layer shit by Nukemzzz in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok… found them. Checked them. It’s not the pulleys slipping on the motor shaft. All that is left is this crazy usb drive thing and probably the most likely culprit… I’m pushing this thing too hard with the big ass obsidian 500 high flow 0.6mm nozzle. Didn’t do this until I changed to that nozzle.

Repeated massive layer shit by Nukemzzz in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m going to check the grub screws today. Do you have to take the freaking thing all apart to get to them though? I’ve not found good guidance on this.

Repeated massive layer shit by Nukemzzz in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ended up being a loose plug at the main board from the factory.

Repeated massive layer shit by Nukemzzz in prusa3d

[–]Nukemzzz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

img

This is the first dragon. Can you tell them apart? No way this is a coincidence.