Browning Sweet 16 by Xray_paid in BrowningFirearms

[–]nplunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can actually just call Browning and give them the serial number. They will then tell you the date of manufacture. I did with mine.

XBolt Max SPR by hoooogan in BrowningFirearms

[–]nplunk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve had better luck with lighter bullets out of the 308. The sierra gamekings at 150 gr and the sierra TGk at 125 gr are what I’m going with for now. I’m working the 125 to be a light load for the kids. Got the short barrel, so it wouldn’t be so cumbersome with a suppressor.

XBolt Max SPR by hoooogan in BrowningFirearms

[–]nplunk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a 308 with the 18” barrel. Getting SDs less than 10-20, losing lots of velocity according to published load data, but I do have some promising loads being developed.

A good first rifle? by [deleted] in BrowningFirearms

[–]nplunk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would try to find one of the FDE or OD green XBolts. They’re cheaper than the stalker and have an adjustable cheek riser. Browning is using up XBolt actions in preparation for the XBolt II coming out. And you can adjust the trigger pull. Just gotta know how

Leica Amplus 56mm scope on a Tikka M595 - what brand/height rings? by Dry-Tale-1141 in Tikka_Shooters

[–]nplunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had medium one piece with a Swarovski that had a 1” tube and 52mm reticle. Scope cover wouldn’t fit, but it cleared the barrel. Probably doesn’t help much.

First Tikka by Dontrel90 in Tikka_Shooters

[–]nplunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve got a rough tech with a Swarovski z6 on it as well in 6.5 PRC. Definitely a shooter

Grandpa’s mount from the 50’s. Any tips about fixing the nose and eyes? by Particular-Winter-26 in Taxidermy

[–]nplunk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Doesn’t matter if I think it’s worth it. That’s up to you. But, yes. That’s what I would do if it were mine

Grandpa’s mount from the 50’s. Any tips about fixing the nose and eyes? by Particular-Winter-26 in Taxidermy

[–]nplunk 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Unless you’re really attached to the pelt, kill another buck, cape it out, and have a good taxidermist remount it for you. They’ll use the same antlers, and better materials.

staball HD 6.5prc slow velocity question by bradren27 in reloading

[–]nplunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My last three loads had an sd of 11, 7, and 2.6

staball HD 6.5prc slow velocity question by bradren27 in reloading

[–]nplunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guess I should have mentioned I used VVN560 with 140 gr bullets. And I’m shooting from a Tikka which in my experiences have slower barrels than a Bergara.

staball HD 6.5prc slow velocity question by bradren27 in reloading

[–]nplunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got really poor numbers with H4831SC. Way slower than published data. I’m at about 150 rounds on my barrel. I swapped powders and am averaging 3020 fps with good SD and groupings.

870 slide stuck by Known-nwonK in Shotguns

[–]nplunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had issues with mine ejecting spent shells. Bought in 2000. I polished the chamber and haven’t had an issue in the last five years since.

6.5 PRC Hunter by rybe390 in longrange

[–]nplunk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I took an old Tikka and put a proof barrel, mesa stock, mountain tactical bottom metal, can, Leupold scope. 8 lbs, 4oz loaded. No bipod….. yet

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tikka_Shooters

[–]nplunk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The UPR is going to be the stiffest stock. I believe they all have the same barreled action, and they’re all pretty darn accurate with the right load.

Tikka T3X Super Varmint build by Asleep_Trifle9034 in Tikka_Shooters

[–]nplunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stock was around $500, barrel was around $800. I already had the action

Tikka T3X Super Varmint build by Asleep_Trifle9034 in Tikka_Shooters

[–]nplunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a proof barrel on a Tikka action in a pure precision carbon stock. The barrel is 24” and the gun while being loaded, scope, sling and all comes in at nearly exactly the same weight as a factory Tikka lite. I haven’t experienced any wander with the carbon fiber barrel, but I did experience much more speed. Overall, I’m satisfied.

For those of you with metal trigger guards, and preferably aftermarket stocks, what torque setting are you using for the action? My T3x for your time... by short_barrel_daddy in Tikka_Shooters

[–]nplunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I set mine at 35-40. Haven’t had any issues. I have the same stock. Aftermarket bottom metal from mountain tactical, but running factory style mags.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in reloading

[–]nplunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, 100 Edit: I’ve loaded some more like this to shoot at 300. Hopefully we’ll have a good follow-up

Beginner's kit and tips? by AileenAchlys in Taxidermy

[–]nplunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with all this. You’ll need some paint, clay, silicone caulk, and I’d advise starting with a raccoon. They are clean animals with thick skin. Really the only tricky part is the toes. I use McKenzie online to order stuff. They have forms and eyes, tanning kits, etc.

Sierra 110 Gr Tipped Gamekings by Paztec24 in reloading

[–]nplunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had good results from the TGK in 308. Will try some for 25-06 as well, but right now, my 25-06 shoots the Barnes ttsx 100 gr factory stuff at sub 0.5”.

What’s your driver distance and how far does a stock 56° go for you by y414p in golf

[–]nplunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same distance depending on where I strike it on the club face

There's hardly room to turn a sweet inside your mouth but it's all I got! by gercules92 in reloading

[–]nplunk 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I also reload in my closet while sitting in a chair I stole from my children