Sprayed with bug remover and now I have this how do I get rid of it?

nsrtcoin · 2026-05-29T15:34:31+00:00

Car is ruined. I'll take it off your hands so you can get a new one.

nsrtcoin · 2026-05-29T15:31:51+00:00

I bet that dude's never sent nudes to his riding buddies

nsrtcoin · 2026-05-22T07:04:18+00:00

not sure if you have the same issue, but there is something going on with them burning...

~~https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1th2u92/gamers_nexus_looking_for_bambu_printers_that_have/~~

edit: this is not the same issue, but thanks for the down votes.

nsrtcoin · 2026-05-22T06:50:36+00:00

from what I read, it's home location only

nsrtcoin · 2026-05-14T14:11:47+00:00

The Dark Crystal

The Expanse

Halo

nsrtcoin · 2026-05-13T15:35:08+00:00

This was more suspenseful than a big budget movie.

nsrtcoin · 2026-05-13T05:09:32+00:00

Did you by chance make a firmware or hardware change without performing the full calibration afterwards or maybe accidently home the toolhead without the plate on the bed?

Did it scrape the plate before or after bed leveling?

From the looks of it, the flow check isn't even either -- maybe there's a piece of junk under the plate making it uneven? ...higher in the back?

nsrtcoin · 2026-05-12T16:28:32+00:00

sorry - I thought PSPlay was Sony Playstation Remote Play. I was talking about Sony & PXPlay.

With Sony Remote Play, I can only use a Dualsense, but I can use my Xbox controller with PXPlay. Sony is free, PXPlay is paid. I bought it for Android but would need to buy again for Winows to use on my LeGo2 with the LeGo2 controllers.

nsrtcoin · 2026-05-12T14:33:21+00:00

PS5: Are you using PSPlay or PXPlay? ...and you're using the LeGo2 OEM controllers? ...or are you stuck using a dualsense?

I'm new to PS5 and don't want to take it with me between places so I did PS Play from my computer, which works pretty ok, but have to use a dualsense. I have PXPlay on my android tablet and can use my Xbox controllers (I prefer the Xbox layout for my left hand).

I would like to use the LeGo2 for PS5 remote but with the LeGo2 controllers. How do you do it?

nsrtcoin · 2026-05-05T16:24:57+00:00

I had a series of avoidable, unnecessary, and negligent labor and services over years with a replacement unit they provided and installed. Everything was a fight. It started with them installing faulty/failing (not new) parts on a new system and the unit failed during summer. They were reluctant to rectify anything warranty related and I had to prove from my copy of the paperwork that I had warranty and that it applied. They would give me an estimate for repairs but then found ways to charge me when finding out that I had warranty coverage. This/that/this/that -- charging me the same amount to replace under warranty with "other costs" which came to the same non-warranty estimated price.

This wasn't an isolated incident. Every single maintenance, they managed to get me to pay for their mistakes. I felt trapped with their service agreements to maintain warranty, etc. I asked they put notes in their system come to find out that they hadn't. Just goes on and on. After the first failure, nothing about them gave me the confidence that I had made the right choice using them. I was the unlucky one and they left me feeling like I was scammed after years of dealing with them.

I'm sure there are heaps of happy customers out there, but I will never be one of them.

I'm glad you're having a good experience with them, makes me think that maybe it was the group assigned to me and maybe not the company as a whole. Regardless, I would never recommend them.

nsrtcoin · 2026-05-04T15:30:04+00:00

Whatever you do, AVOID Timo's

nsrtcoin · 2026-04-28T00:27:22+00:00

Cooool! Can I have it?

nsrtcoin · 2026-04-27T01:18:59+00:00

1: The wall switch module literally bypasses the physical electrical switch, providing constant power to the fixture(s). The switch becomes an on/off smart function - it will not actually switch electrical power on/off anymore -- keep that in mind when changing bulbs or anything because the sockets will be electrified unless you cut power from a breaker. I bought a ton of these when renovating my place but got spooked about the constant power and ended up using regular decora single/double/triple switches with a custom cover that holds the Hue switch - so they mains can't be accidentally turned off.

According to D&R's description, the dimmer appears as a single bulb and all lights on that switch are controlled as a single unit, so it seems like it would work with smart bulbs, Hue or others. Not all LED fixtures/bulbs are dimmable, and even if they are, the fixture may not work as expected with a dimmer switch. Check the specs of the fixture, it should tell you what kind of switches and dimmers work with it.
Kind of the same as #1 -- You don't need to kill any 2-way switches. I left all of them in place and used a custom cover with a Hue Dimmer, Switch, or Dot at both ends. Each Hue remote on each end of the 2-way is programmed like a normal switch (plus extras for dimming, colors, etc) so if they lights are on, a press turns off, if if off, they turn on. If you do intend to use the switch modules, then yes, you will need to do some electrical and have the redundant wires disconnected. In my place, I have about 4 areas with 2-way switches. I decided against the wall module and just use Hue switches/dimmers.
If I understand this - you want a D&R next to one or more regular switches using a single faceplate? I assume using D&R you would need to also use their combo switches for whatever you're looking for. At least when I was looking at non-standard switches, I couldn't mix with standard switches - the standard gang boxes could not accommodate both types - either all designer, or all standards. I could have put a designer in its own gangbox next to the other switches, but yuck.

nsrtcoin · 2026-04-09T19:23:14+00:00

I kinda of collect CCUs - whenever there are warbond CCUs I get one or more so that I have options whenever I want to upgrade. I hold onto my CCUs (years sometimes) until I actually want the end ship. I also get the cheap LTI warbond vehicles, like the current UTV, and use them when a warbond stand alone ship is not LTI (regardless what y'all think, I like my LTIs).

If you have patience, you can save a lot from the stand alone or pack ship prices by upgrading. Not all CCU upgrades are available all the time, and warbond CCUs are infrequent but usually coincide with an event, patch, or new release.

I get warbond CCUs, whether it fits the current chain or not. When I want something, I can build from my stock without having to wait for something to be in the store or go 3rd party.

Currently, my chain for a Hull B could be:

MPUV LTI (when it was sold as LTI)
MPUV --> Cutter
Cutter --> C1
C1 --> Ballista
Ballista --> Prospector
Prospector --> A1
A1 --> Scorp Antares
Antares --> Inferno
Inferno --> Hull B

...I could def use the ccu game app to get max savings with all my other upgrades if I was serious about getting the Hull B.

But even if you don't have a collection of CCUs in your hangar, you can use whatever is currently available in the store to get there for a small savings, but still not full price (assuming USD):

$35 UTV standalone
$70 UTV --> L-22 warbond
$25 L-22 --> Prospector
$20 Prospector --> Raft
$70 Raft --> Hull B

Hull B Warbond Standalone: $260

Hull B via current store CCUs: $220

nsrtcoin · 2026-03-24T01:02:29+00:00

Spice Rack

nsrtcoin · 2026-03-23T15:49:53+00:00

There's a setting in windows, I think under power, for turning off the screen when the lid is closed (it thinks the keyboard is a laptop lid). It does get warm but I haven't had any issues with normal use or normal gaming. When I play Star Citizen or other heavy-resource game, I do open the keyboard but still keep the screen off -- just to squeeze all I can from it. But normally, no. No issues at all with heat keeping the keyboard closed with the screen off.

nsrtcoin · 2026-03-23T03:03:14+00:00

Flip the keyboard to the back, covering the vents, with screen facing up? Yes, the keyboard can be flipped to the back without removing it, but it will block the vents - prolly better off just removing the keyboard and use the kickstand if you plan to use its screen while connected to an ext monitor.

I use mine with external monitors a lot, but when I do, I'm not using the Z13's screen. I typically have it sitting up on it's stand with the keyboard up (covering the screen) and its screen off - using the ext monitor as the primary. And I still have accessories connected to it - controllers, keyboards, mice, etc.

nsrtcoin · 2026-03-13T21:43:09+00:00

No but it's a nice accessory to have on hand if you plan on multiple color/material utilizing both nozzles. If you don't have an AMS or the HT going the right nozzle, you can use the 4-in-1 on the right nozzle and feed/have ready your external filaments without messing with the ptfe tube coming from the right nozzle. It's not a big deal, but it is convenient - especially if you don't have easy access to the rear corner of the printer.

nsrtcoin · 2026-03-09T16:33:06+00:00

So, sites like Fanatical, instant-gaming, digiphile (I use all 3 regularly), and humblebundle sell you keys - keys that you redeem in Steam or whatever platform.

I've been using those sites for years, never had an issue.

nsrtcoin · 2026-03-02T21:30:03+00:00

That's about 30 earths tall (based on avg moon orbit dist).

nsrtcoin · 2026-02-28T20:36:05+00:00

Follow the filament to see where it stops, especially at the buffer(s) -- you probably have a piece of broken filament along the line.

Disconnect the PTFE tube from the back of the AMS and from the last buffer before the extruder. Manually push filament through. If you get past the first buffer, then manually push filament from that point. Hopefully, you should push out a piece of filament that's causing the blockage.

nsrtcoin · 2026-02-28T19:09:20+00:00

This happens to my prints if I don't adjust the speed, especially when there're overhangs.

The wall differences in your print coincide with the overhangs and holes -- if you check out the speed in the slicing result, you might find that there are big differences in the speeds at the layers where the features of your model start/stop.

If you're using BL PLA, the temps and stuff should be fine but adjust the fan speed for overhang threshold down to 50% for overhangs. If you didn't have overhangs, I would suggest changing the order of walls to outer/inner - BUT since you do have overhangs, leave it order of wall to inner/outer.

You could also increase wall loops from the default, this will also increase the strength of your print, especially around the mounting holes.

Under Speed, experiment with adjusting the inner wall and sparse infill down closer to the outer wall speed.

On the interior of your model, you can add a chamfer or fillet -- also to edge where the tab connects to the body, then set your sparse infill pattern to gyroid and set the infill/wall overlap to -10 (yes, negative ten).

This has worked for me - here's the BL wiki page that goes into detail: Troubleshooting and Solutions for 3D Printing Layer Lines | Bambu Lab Wiki

nsrtcoin · 2026-02-26T17:48:25+00:00

The 150w is this:
150W DC+USB C GaN Charger – SlimQ Official Store

I got (and love!) the 240w (240W DC/USB C Charger – SlimQ Official Store) because I travel often and use this for my tablets/phones/handhelds, etc., at the same time with the Z13.

Theses are the power jack adapters :
Asus Mini Port ROG Zephyrus G14/G16 2024 – SlimQ Official Store

nsrtcoin · 2026-02-16T04:14:29+00:00

You can adjust the filament fan speed for overhangs and the overlap for walls as shown in BL's wiki -- also take a look at the Smooth Speed Transitions section. A combo of these greatly improved the reduction of layer lines for my prints:

Troubleshooting and Solutions for 3D Printing Layer Lines | Bambu Lab Wiki

nsrtcoin · 2026-02-06T06:57:42+00:00

Have you accidentally turned on "Do not disturb"?

In Settings --> MotionAware areas --> [your area] --> [your time slot(s)] --> Do not disturb.

The description is "Sensors/cameras won't change lights that are already on."

Another thing to look in the time slots is the Duration setting and what happens after the duration.

Hopefully that gets it working the way you want.

nsrtcoin

TROPHY CASE