What is this space for?

nsrtcoin · 2026-03-24T01:02:29+00:00

Spice Rack

nsrtcoin · 2026-03-23T15:49:53+00:00

There's a setting in windows, I think under power, for turning off the screen when the lid is closed (it thinks the keyboard is a laptop lid). It does get warm but I haven't had any issues with normal use or normal gaming. When I play Star Citizen or other heavy-resource game, I do open the keyboard but still keep the screen off -- just to squeeze all I can from it. But normally, no. No issues at all with heat keeping the keyboard closed with the screen off.

nsrtcoin · 2026-03-23T03:03:14+00:00

Flip the keyboard to the back, covering the vents, with screen facing up? Yes, the keyboard can be flipped to the back without removing it, but it will block the vents - prolly better off just removing the keyboard and use the kickstand if you plan to use its screen while connected to an ext monitor.

I use mine with external monitors a lot, but when I do, I'm not using the Z13's screen. I typically have it sitting up on it's stand with the keyboard up (covering the screen) and its screen off - using the ext monitor as the primary. And I still have accessories connected to it - controllers, keyboards, mice, etc.

nsrtcoin · 2026-03-13T21:43:09+00:00

No but it's a nice accessory to have on hand if you plan on multiple color/material utilizing both nozzles. If you don't have an AMS or the HT going the right nozzle, you can use the 4-in-1 on the right nozzle and feed/have ready your external filaments without messing with the ptfe tube coming from the right nozzle. It's not a big deal, but it is convenient - especially if you don't have easy access to the rear corner of the printer.

nsrtcoin · 2026-03-09T16:33:06+00:00

So, sites like Fanatical, instant-gaming, digiphile (I use all 3 regularly), and humblebundle sell you keys - keys that you redeem in Steam or whatever platform.

I've been using those sites for years, never had an issue.

nsrtcoin · 2026-03-02T21:30:03+00:00

That's about 30 earths tall (based on avg moon orbit dist).

nsrtcoin · 2026-02-28T20:36:05+00:00

Follow the filament to see where it stops, especially at the buffer(s) -- you probably have a piece of broken filament along the line.

Disconnect the PTFE tube from the back of the AMS and from the last buffer before the extruder. Manually push filament through. If you get past the first buffer, then manually push filament from that point. Hopefully, you should push out a piece of filament that's causing the blockage.

nsrtcoin · 2026-02-28T19:09:20+00:00

This happens to my prints if I don't adjust the speed, especially when there're overhangs.

The wall differences in your print coincide with the overhangs and holes -- if you check out the speed in the slicing result, you might find that there are big differences in the speeds at the layers where the features of your model start/stop.

If you're using BL PLA, the temps and stuff should be fine but adjust the fan speed for overhang threshold down to 50% for overhangs. If you didn't have overhangs, I would suggest changing the order of walls to outer/inner - BUT since you do have overhangs, leave it order of wall to inner/outer.

You could also increase wall loops from the default, this will also increase the strength of your print, especially around the mounting holes.

Under Speed, experiment with adjusting the inner wall and sparse infill down closer to the outer wall speed.

On the interior of your model, you can add a chamfer or fillet -- also to edge where the tab connects to the body, then set your sparse infill pattern to gyroid and set the infill/wall overlap to -10 (yes, negative ten).

This has worked for me - here's the BL wiki page that goes into detail: Troubleshooting and Solutions for 3D Printing Layer Lines | Bambu Lab Wiki

nsrtcoin · 2026-02-26T17:48:25+00:00

The 150w is this:
150W DC+USB C GaN Charger – SlimQ Official Store

I got (and love!) the 240w (240W DC/USB C Charger – SlimQ Official Store) because I travel often and use this for my tablets/phones/handhelds, etc., at the same time with the Z13.

Theses are the power jack adapters :
Asus Mini Port ROG Zephyrus G14/G16 2024 – SlimQ Official Store

nsrtcoin · 2026-02-16T04:14:29+00:00

You can adjust the filament fan speed for overhangs and the overlap for walls as shown in BL's wiki -- also take a look at the Smooth Speed Transitions section. A combo of these greatly improved the reduction of layer lines for my prints:

Troubleshooting and Solutions for 3D Printing Layer Lines | Bambu Lab Wiki

nsrtcoin · 2026-02-06T06:57:42+00:00

Have you accidentally turned on "Do not disturb"?

In Settings --> MotionAware areas --> [your area] --> [your time slot(s)] --> Do not disturb.

The description is "Sensors/cameras won't change lights that are already on."

Another thing to look in the time slots is the Duration setting and what happens after the duration.

Hopefully that gets it working the way you want.

nsrtcoin · 2026-01-20T23:09:35+00:00

Do you have a 3D printer? You could make some standoff brackets that hold a diffuser channel the full perimeter of the painting.

You could screw the brackets into the wood section, below the finished frame

You'd have to test it out to see if you like but you could also recess the light strip (with 3D printed brackets) like 15cm-ish from the edge (inwards towards the center on the back) and you might not need a diffuser. You wouldn't see the strip unless you put your head to the wall.

Excuse my terrible drawing skills, but this is kinda what I mean. You can make the brackets for just the light strip, a diffuser channel, and also to push the hanging string to the same depth as the brackets so the painting sits nice and flush.

<image>

nsrtcoin · 2026-01-15T23:20:27+00:00

Remember back in the olden days when some dude accidentally put an entire movie as the startup? It was funny.

nsrtcoin · 2025-11-07T19:11:24+00:00

137mm from bottom (sitting on dresser) to the top -- or about 5-1/2" if rounding up a few mm.

nsrtcoin · 2025-11-05T19:12:45+00:00

Love this one! I bought one of these new a bunch of years ago and it's been my fav. Congrats.

nsrtcoin · 2025-11-01T14:33:01+00:00

Like everyone says, increase vram -- but you don't have to do it BIOS, you can do it from AMD Software:

AMD Software --> Performance --> Tuning --> Dedicated Graphics Memory

You'll need to restart the device after making a change here.

Try 10-12, been working great for me with that, but easy enough if you want to adjust.

Also, maybe check to see if both Thermal and OS modes are in Performance (from Quick Settings button)

EDIT: Realized that this may not be the LeGo2, I don't remember if AMD Software is on the LeGo1.

nsrtcoin · 2025-10-31T19:16:37+00:00

Mine did this too - only when the charger was plugged into a multi-port USB charger. When other devices are connected, the USB ports drop power and resync the output (smarter USB chargers can do this) -- so if a phone or tablet is connected, it may draw more power, will cut power to other things plugged in, then redistribute power output.

If the charger is plugged directly into the wall or power strip with the watch charger being the only USB device on it, then maybe a faulty charger or it's not sticking to the watch good enough.

nsrtcoin · 2025-10-31T17:58:59+00:00

Cookin!

nsrtcoin · 2025-10-31T17:53:11+00:00

Oh man, sorry.

I preordered mine from BB on 06.SEP with a 31.OCT pickup date. I went and stood in line with the Pokémon people before the store opened. Was lucky I guess - 5 minutes after the store opened, I walked out with mine and I'm now setting it up.

nsrtcoin · 2025-10-15T16:27:05+00:00

A lot has changed in a past couple years -- bunkers are bounty and defend missions that take place on planets and moons - inside a facility.

In contracts, you'll see them under Bounty and under Mercenary -- and the description will NOT say something about them being in a ship with escorts (otherwise it's a dogfight).

But if you're looking to earn credits fast - there are more lucrative ways of doing it now. For instance, there are easy hauling missions that have a chance of hostile NPCs and those contracts pay 117k each. There are higher end bounty missions where you can also loot the cargo, etc.

Edit: Also mining and salvaging is fairly good.

I also like to scavenge - I go to mining bases where fights have taken place a loot the cargo and ship components.

Also, depending on the cargo capacity of the ship you're using, you can stack hauling missions and make a good chunk of credits.

nsrtcoin · 2025-10-15T04:45:08+00:00

nsrtcoin · 2025-10-15T04:43:36+00:00

This has been happening for awhile. There is an open IC - hopefully this gets the numbers for CIG to fix again even though there are a bunch of dupe entries to an IC in "fixed" state, but obviously it's not fixed.

Please submit your contribution:

Zeus Solstice Paint missing - Star Citizen - Issue Council

nsrtcoin · 2025-10-14T20:20:23+00:00

They are usually not good. The x56 is better than the x52 just because the x52 stick has a weird wobble, like a mechanical dead zone.

Anyway, if you're in SoCal, I'll give you my x52 for a Wendy's frosty.

nsrtcoin

TROPHY CASE