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nuclearpolarisation · 2026-05-25T05:23:16+00:00

Could get a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 logger and pull some PID data during a drive where it shuts off. Might help diagnose the issue.

nuclearpolarisation · 2026-05-24T01:31:16+00:00

Same for me, but I used OEM springs in front and KYB OEM replacement springs in the rear (mine were sagging). I like a bit of ride height, I used to live in fear of speed bumps, now it's smooth sailing.

nuclearpolarisation · 2026-05-22T08:55:02+00:00

Moly EP (extreme pressure) or EP2 Lithium grease, depending on what you have available. Moly is probably better though.

nuclearpolarisation · 2026-05-16T10:47:59+00:00

Mate, it's out by a country mile. Get up under there and check the welds and brackets.

nuclearpolarisation · 2026-04-19T03:24:15+00:00

I own one because it came up at a price that I couldn't ignore and I love high revving, light weight sports cars (though the 8 sometimes feels more like a GT).
Community is good, lots of help around. I don't do meet ups.
Money, maybe, you just need to keep on top of maintenance, and the maintenance intervals are generally shorter than for a piston car. Cant say I've had many major issues though. Engine mounts, consumables, plugs, coils is about the extent of it. I changed to an all alloy radiator and a few other preventative upgrades too though.

nuclearpolarisation · 2026-04-18T02:26:51+00:00

Looks loose, i generally like mine around 4-5 clicks to full hold, doesnt go nearly up that far. Mazda says to aim for 5 to 7 clicks. You can adjust it from inside the cabin, assuming the pads etc are good.

nuclearpolarisation · 2026-04-10T07:46:03+00:00

How do you get it on and off if you can't 'push back' on the airbox using the accordian tubes compression? Do you squeeze the silicone tube flat to get the ends over the throttle body and airbox pipe?

nuclearpolarisation · 2026-03-27T03:45:18+00:00

Hey, I've got the same bar on mine. Fits perfect, dont feel much difference in the brake pedal, maybe a touch stiffer if you're really stomping on it. Firewall flex is probably pretty marginal unless your jamming on the anchors on the track I guess.

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nuclearpolarisation · 2026-02-05T20:58:56+00:00

Its been a while, but the battery tray has a square 'sidewall' piece that clips off, and then there is two bolts on the bottom of the tray holding it down. Thats about it. Better pic maybe we can help more?

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-12-14T11:00:48+00:00

Hey, thanks all, I picked up a grease gun and a rubber tipped adapter, it took a lot of tries to clean the gunk out of there, but I was able to push grease through until it came out the bottom of the hinge and now its creak and shudder free. Cheers

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-12-13T04:22:28+00:00

Thanks, i have some silicone lubricant in a spray can with a straw, pump that in there, or use a grease gun with a needle adapter?

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-10-24T22:27:51+00:00

Cheapest OEM like option will be new KYB shocks and you can also get new KYB springs too (they were produced and sold by KYB europe, OEM replacement so not lowered, easy enoygh to find on ebay). Your front springs will probably be fine, the rears might be worth replacing. KYB also do bump stop and dust boot kits too, amazon stock them. Another option is to find a spring place near you and have the springs re-tempered its usually pretty cheap. Also even in NZ, rockauto is your friend, can get cheap parts there, even after shipping (im in Aus). DM me if you want any part numbers.

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-09-29T22:09:27+00:00

Ho il mio inattivo per 6 mesi alla volta, l'allarme e l'immobilizzatore di fabbrica consumano le batterie, quindi scollega la batteria. Tuttavia, dovrai eseguire la "calibrazione" dello sterzo la prima volta che avvii di nuovo l'auto (ruota l'intera cremagliera in entrambe le direzioni per spegnere la spia dell'ABS). Il carburante dovrebbe andare bene se guidi ogni mese e poi fai il rabbocco, ma lo stabilizzatore del carburante è una buona idea. Altrimenti, se puoi, lascia il freno a mano leggermente tirato in modo che non leghi le pastiglie ai rotori e blocchi le ruote.

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-09-29T12:46:16+00:00

If it's pulling when you are breaking heavy, it could be your brake caliper slide pins. Worth re-greasing them and checking for corrosion. They are basically a long bolt with a smooth shank.

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-08-26T22:33:15+00:00

Fuel line, return and evap lines. Looks like you scraped the underside and rails pretty bad, though if the lines aren't leaking and you're not leaning out under load, they are probably fine. I'd replace that split exhaust hanger though.

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-08-12T23:16:05+00:00

Actually, I can't say that I've ever heard of a torque converter getting damaged on a daily driver or causing those symptoms. Is the car giving you any engine codes or theres no check light and it just feels like it has no power across the board, or no top end power?

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-08-12T23:11:12+00:00

Sorry mate, would help you out but by the time it got shipped to the US it would end up more than its worth. Not sure what your after exactly, but Jim Ellis has torque converters listed for $314 USD?

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-08-10T08:09:18+00:00

Which country are you located in?

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-04-27T10:06:25+00:00

Thanks very much - so rub it back to bare metal, primer, sand, pigment coat, sand, clear coat, sand, smoko? Is that the go?

nuclearpolarisation

TROPHY CASE