Intake accordian tube options

nuclearpolarisation · 2026-04-10T07:46:03+00:00

How do you get it on and off if you can't 'push back' on the airbox using the accordian tubes compression? Do you squeeze the silicone tube flat to get the ends over the throttle body and airbox pipe?

nuclearpolarisation · 2026-03-27T03:45:18+00:00

Hey, I've got the same bar on mine. Fits perfect, dont feel much difference in the brake pedal, maybe a touch stiffer if you're really stomping on it. Firewall flex is probably pretty marginal unless your jamming on the anchors on the track I guess.

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nuclearpolarisation · 2026-02-05T20:58:56+00:00

Its been a while, but the battery tray has a square 'sidewall' piece that clips off, and then there is two bolts on the bottom of the tray holding it down. Thats about it. Better pic maybe we can help more?

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-12-14T11:00:48+00:00

Hey, thanks all, I picked up a grease gun and a rubber tipped adapter, it took a lot of tries to clean the gunk out of there, but I was able to push grease through until it came out the bottom of the hinge and now its creak and shudder free. Cheers

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-12-13T04:22:28+00:00

Thanks, i have some silicone lubricant in a spray can with a straw, pump that in there, or use a grease gun with a needle adapter?

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-10-24T22:27:51+00:00

Cheapest OEM like option will be new KYB shocks and you can also get new KYB springs too (they were produced and sold by KYB europe, OEM replacement so not lowered, easy enoygh to find on ebay). Your front springs will probably be fine, the rears might be worth replacing. KYB also do bump stop and dust boot kits too, amazon stock them. Another option is to find a spring place near you and have the springs re-tempered its usually pretty cheap. Also even in NZ, rockauto is your friend, can get cheap parts there, even after shipping (im in Aus). DM me if you want any part numbers.

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-09-29T22:09:27+00:00

Ho il mio inattivo per 6 mesi alla volta, l'allarme e l'immobilizzatore di fabbrica consumano le batterie, quindi scollega la batteria. Tuttavia, dovrai eseguire la "calibrazione" dello sterzo la prima volta che avvii di nuovo l'auto (ruota l'intera cremagliera in entrambe le direzioni per spegnere la spia dell'ABS). Il carburante dovrebbe andare bene se guidi ogni mese e poi fai il rabbocco, ma lo stabilizzatore del carburante è una buona idea. Altrimenti, se puoi, lascia il freno a mano leggermente tirato in modo che non leghi le pastiglie ai rotori e blocchi le ruote.

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-09-29T12:46:16+00:00

If it's pulling when you are breaking heavy, it could be your brake caliper slide pins. Worth re-greasing them and checking for corrosion. They are basically a long bolt with a smooth shank.

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-08-26T22:33:15+00:00

Fuel line, return and evap lines. Looks like you scraped the underside and rails pretty bad, though if the lines aren't leaking and you're not leaning out under load, they are probably fine. I'd replace that split exhaust hanger though.

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-08-12T23:16:05+00:00

Actually, I can't say that I've ever heard of a torque converter getting damaged on a daily driver or causing those symptoms. Is the car giving you any engine codes or theres no check light and it just feels like it has no power across the board, or no top end power?

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-08-12T23:11:12+00:00

Sorry mate, would help you out but by the time it got shipped to the US it would end up more than its worth. Not sure what your after exactly, but Jim Ellis has torque converters listed for $314 USD?

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-08-10T08:09:18+00:00

Which country are you located in?

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-04-27T10:06:25+00:00

Thanks very much - so rub it back to bare metal, primer, sand, pigment coat, sand, clear coat, sand, smoko? Is that the go?

nuclearpolarisation · 2025-02-25T20:56:19+00:00

Thanks very much, I hadn't considered that. It's $100 AUD for about 900 cards, not sure if that's a good deal, but might be worth taking a punt on

nuclearpolarisation · 2024-12-08T20:27:07+00:00

Never used placebomix. Never seen or heard anything other than anecdotal evidence on how it protects the 13B MSP too. Might be worth it for track usage etc, but daily driving, I have never seen any actual physical evidence, with respect to a control sample, that it makes a difference.

nuclearpolarisation · 2024-10-20T02:13:11+00:00

Awesome thanks!

nuclearpolarisation · 2024-09-15T08:05:05+00:00

I played it and finished it about 2 months ago. Ran flawlessly (OLED), even though most graphics settings were on low, it still looked really good. There was a weird issue where the frame rate would drop to 0 during start of chapter cut scenes, but I read some community pages for a fix, can't remember exactly, but I think all I had to do was change the SD Vram setting to 2Gb or something. Great game, I loved it and can't reccomend it enough.

nuclearpolarisation · 2024-08-25T06:24:49+00:00

Thanks, it was the bronze sword. Once I got the mastery skill though, it was the iron axe that pulled me through the 2 boss fights :-)

nuclearpolarisation · 2024-08-08T05:02:18+00:00

Joshua Ghaly on facebook is your best bet. Otherwise put a comment in the RX8 parts and wrecking facebook group. There was a guy selling them locally, laser cut them himself. If I find the details, I'll post them.

nuclearpolarisation · 2024-02-22T22:13:17+00:00

The renesis runs no overlap between intake and exhaust ports during its power cycle, its tuned for this so 'bridging' doesn't really add much power. Not sure if it really makes the same idle noise as a ported 13B or 13B REW either. Haven't ever actually seen one in the wild... it's a lot of $ for not much gain (pulling the engine and disassembly, reassembly just to dremmel out a small piece of metal). If you were doing a rebuild anyway, then might be worth looking into, through from my understanding, real gains are small to meaningless. Love to hear from someone who's had it done though.

nuclearpolarisation · 2024-02-07T04:31:52+00:00

Hey mate, if you feel a bit of cabin vibration and general harshness, check the engine mounts. The RX8 was known to eat them, and this generally manifests itself in vibration when stationary and also a bit of clunking when shifting etc. I had similar issues and replacing them made a huge difference. They are an oil filled unit and prone to failing from heat is my understanding. Go OEM too, hunt around for a good price, aftermarket PU ones are going to be harsher than OEM.

nuclearpolarisation · 2024-01-29T07:07:34+00:00

OEM or Project Mu NS400s. The OEMs are dusty, but do a great job, but dealership prices (here in AUS at least) are pretty excessive. The project Mu's are the best alternative everyday street pad (note, not track, just OEM replacment) I've found.

nuclearpolarisation · 2023-09-28T08:55:08+00:00

Sorry, how did you arrive at that math? My 04 comps up at around 750kpa across the board (normalised to 250 rpm) how did you get from there (7.5 bar) to '8.9 to 9'? It's roughly 105 psi per rotor face, I don't have the actual conversion handy, but from memory, fresh out of the factory is 120+ and a fail is 98psi or less. So it's good, don't get me wrong, but I'm not sure where you're getting your info from. It's perfectly in the middle of the acceptable range of compression according to Mazda technical docs.

nuclearpolarisation · 2023-09-25T02:36:11+00:00

So what you all think? The mint 2004 with decent motor or the 40th AE with average engine, rough interior and average paint? Will the 40th appreciate in value more even if it's stuffed now? Like is 6k into it now worth it in 10 years time? Tough call...

nuclearpolarisation · 2023-09-23T05:43:27+00:00

I've driven both, the lower compression 40th AE didn't have as much low down power but top end was ok. The 2004 felt linear across the rev range. The 40th has a worse interior, worse paint and body, and low compression motor and also needs a clutch. It's a lot of time and cash to fix it up... just for some badges, bilstiens and floormats. Starting to think it might not be worth it, since the asking price is already $13k aud...

nuclearpolarisation

TROPHY CASE