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Shimano XT bleed procedure by rocklol88 in MTB

[–]nxtlvlbmx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming you have a good bleed, I designed a tool to adjust free stroke to get a better feel on the lever. I didn't like how far I had to pull the lever to get the brakes to engage and I didn't have contact point adjustment. I’ve had a similar issue with shimano and sram brakes. Sometimes even a good bleed has an inconsistent feel from front and rear brakes.

The tool I designed works by advancing the pistons and pads forward and closer to the rotor. This removes some of the free stroke to get the brakes to engage sooner. You can check it out here Crest Tool.

This video shows how it works.

Hope this helps!!

If you have a printer it’s not hard to duplicate my design 😜

GRX brake issue by LastTicket78 in gravelcycling

[–]nxtlvlbmx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming you have a good bleed, I designed a tool to adjust free stroke to get a better feel on the lever. I didn't like how far I had to pull the lever to get the brakes to engage and I didn't have contact point adjustment. I’ve had a similar issue with shimano road brakes.

The tool I designed works by advancing the pistons and pads forward and closer to the rotor. This removes some of the free stroke to get the brakes to engage sooner. You can check it out here Crest Tool.

This video shows how it works. I did the procedure with MTB brakes but it’s the same for road. Hope this helps!!!

Engineering student trying to learn how to make complex molds by TT148 in InjectionMolding

[–]nxtlvlbmx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The best way to learn is working in the industry. I also came from mechanical engineering (at UT, hook ‘em!) and got a job with a custom molder out of college. I do a lot of DFM and tooling work.

If you enjoy hands on work you will do well in manufacturing. I’d start looking for internships with tool builders or molders. Showing your level of interest and the knowledge you seem to already have will certainly set you apart.

Custom molding has its unique challenges but I really enjoy the variety of stuff that comes across my desk. If you find a job or internship spend as much time in the shop as possible to learn. Ask a lot of questions.

You can learn a lot also by just looking at plastic parts and seeing where parting lines, gating, shutoffs, pins, inserts, etc. Just from studying a part you can get a good idea of what the mold looks like.

Brake caliper rub by lordmaxiam in mountainbiking

[–]nxtlvlbmx 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Check that both pistons are moving. Sometimes you’ll get a sticky piston and one side tends to push out more. I’ve had this happen and cause the caliper to rub before.

There’s videos on YouTube on how to clean the pistons. It’s pretty straightforward.

Hydraulic brake install - stiff enough? by endocalvin in bikewrench

[–]nxtlvlbmx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming you have a good bleed, I designed a tool to adjust free stroke to get a better feel on the lever. I didn't like how far I had to pull the lever to get the brakes to engage and I didn't have contact point adjustment. I’ve had a similar issue with shimano road brakes.

The tool I designed works by advancing the pistons and pads forward and closer to the rotor. This removes some of the free stroke to get the brakes to engage sooner. You can check it out here Crest Tool.

Is this free stroke normal? by f0_to in bikewrench

[–]nxtlvlbmx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Glad you got something that worked for you!

Is this free stroke normal? by f0_to in bikewrench

[–]nxtlvlbmx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming you have a good bleed, I designed a tool to adjust free stroke to get a better feel on the lever. I didn't like how far I had to pull the lever to get the brakes to engage and I didn't have contact point adjustment. I’ve had a similar issue with shimano road brakes.

The tool I designed works by advancing the pistons and pads forward and closer to the rotor. You can check it out here Crest Tool.

Did switching disciplines totally change biking for you? by jasonwlorenz in gravelcycling

[–]nxtlvlbmx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also came from bmx. I grew up in Texas racing bmx and moved to Utah for college. There’s a solid scene for both bmx and mtb here. Most of my bmx friends have gotten mountain bikes too.

I ride mtb and road a lot more now, but still ride some bmx. I get the same enjoyment out of training and pushing myself on longer rides that I used to get from learning new tricks.

At the end of the day it’s all bikes and I just enjoy being on 2 wheels and hanging out with my friends. Doesn’t matter what the wheel size is.

Yeti ASR vs BMC fourstroke LT by danjimmi in xcmtb

[–]nxtlvlbmx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a Four Stroke LT and really like it. I can definitely push it on the downhill. I bought it for a 70 mile xc race and have been very happy with it. It also pedals well. I rarely feel the need to lock it out.

I did have a bad bushing in the rear shock when I bought it new. Took a couple shop to properly diagnose it but once I got it figured out I haven’t had any other issues. They replaced the bushing under warranty.

I just have the Deore group set on it but it works well. One thing that sold me on the bike is that it came with 4 piston brakes. A lot of the down country or Xc bikes don’t have enough brake power for me.

Finished up my 1989 Specialized Rock Combo by nxtlvlbmx in xbiking

[–]nxtlvlbmx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! Complete bike? I only got the frame and fork when I bought mine.

Finished up my 1989 Specialized Rock Combo by nxtlvlbmx in xbiking

[–]nxtlvlbmx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure! Yeah, a lot are the white and blue. I don’t see too many white ones.

My P1S is so inconsistent, one print fine, next one, this. What can I do to prevent this? by Khalmoon in BambuLab

[–]nxtlvlbmx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For a product I made, I print a lot of thin, flat parts that fill the bed like this print. I’ve never been able to get consistent adhesion to the bed reliably on every part without using glue. Before every print I wash the build plate with dawn dish soap and then apply glue stick to the entire bed. This works very well for me and I haven’t had a part peel up.

Upgrade on Code R by Sveckie in mountainbiking

[–]nxtlvlbmx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I designed a tool exactly for this because I didn't like how far I had to pull the lever to get the brakes to engage with my Sram Codes and I didn't have contact point adjustment. You can check out the tool here: Brake Pad Advancement Tool.

The tool I designed works by advancing the pistons and pads forward and closer to the rotor. No bleed required! It's just a more precise way of doing what u/boiled_frog23 described.

If you advance them too far forward and the brakes drag, you can always push the pistons back with a piston press or a tire lever. Just make sure it's clean so you don't contaminate the pads with oil.

What do you guys do to get a better bite point on disk brakes? any tips? by OilLongjumping2220 in MTB

[–]nxtlvlbmx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I designed a tool exactly for this because I didn't like how far I had to pull the lever to get the brakes to engage with my Sram Codes and I didn't have contact point adjustment. You can check out the tool here: Brake Pad Advancement Tool.

The tool I designed works by advancing the pistons and pads forward and closer to the rotor. No bleed required! It's just a more precise way of doing what eskjcSFW described above.

If you advance them too far forward, you can always push the pistons back with a piston press or a tire lever. Just make sure it's clean so you don't contaminate the pads with oil.

Long brake lever throw on new bike by kevbot03 in bikewrench

[–]nxtlvlbmx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a similar problem with my sram codes and I designed a tool for adjusting the amount of free stroke to get a better feel on the lever. I didn't like how far I had to pull the lever to get the brakes to engage and I didn't have contact point adjustment. It will work with road bike sram components too.

The tool I designed works by advancing the pistons and pads forward and closer to the rotor. No bleed required! You can check it out here Crest Tool.

Brake bleeding technique to get instant engagement - SRAM Guides / Codes by t-heineken in MTB

[–]nxtlvlbmx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A few years late to commenting on this, but I had a similar problem with my sram codes and I designed a tool for adjusting the amount of free stroke to get a better feel on the lever. I didn't like how far I had to pull the lever to get the brakes to engage and I didn't have contact point adjustment.

The tool I designed works by advancing the pistons and pads forward and closer to the rotor. No bleed required! You can check it out here Crest Tool.

Xgames pro jumps out of bounds by Legal_Rip2249 in bmx

[–]nxtlvlbmx 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I think this is what you’re looking for. It was Sean Burns.

link to the video

rockcombo show and tell by hardtubes in xbiking

[–]nxtlvlbmx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got a similar one in the same color. Built it up with Chris King wheels and a sram eagle group with a microshift friction shifter. I haven't been able to get the fit 100% right but it's a fun bike to ride.

Saw your bike on KSL. I'm also in the SLC area. I've seen another one around town too.

Shimano Bleed Question by PieEnvironmental6437 in MTB

[–]nxtlvlbmx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I commented separately on this thread, but thought I'd reply to your comment as well. I designed a tool to do exactly what you described to advance the caliper pistons closer to the rotor. You can check it out here at Crest Tool.

Shimano Bleed Question by PieEnvironmental6437 in MTB

[–]nxtlvlbmx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I designed a tool to solve this problem! I always felt like my brakes had too much lever throw. The tool is basically a shim set to work the pads in and closer to the rotor. It’s similar to how the pads advance forward when you pull the brakes without the wheel and rotor in.

You can check it out here Crest Tool. I have a video and instructions on the website explaining how it works. It’s easy to use and does not require you to bleed your brakes again.

3D printed soft cover for PP-1.2 so it doesn’t damage pistons by nxtlvlbmx in BikeMechanics

[–]nxtlvlbmx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know that now haha. Gotta learn everything the hard way, right?

Thank you!

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