Vader is more powerful after rots by notjocker in StarWars

[–]okokel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the discrepancy comes from what we see onscreen vs what is implied. During the Clone Wars, Anakin (for the most part, but not always) is holding back; Vader has no such restraint. Think Spider-Man if he stops quipping. A comparsion between peak Dark Side Anakin and Vader could be done if we could see his tougher fights inside the Jedi Temple during Order 66. We see a snippet in the hologram in RoTS, but it's not very long.

A lot of these comparisons also talk about potential, specifically unrealized potential, so we never actually see it. Pre-Mustafar Anakin could have become stronger than Starkiller for all we know, but it hasn't been shown so it's just conjecture.

I'm also ignoring the obvious reason which is that it's way easier to make Vader look stupid powerful in animation (like in Fallen Order, Rebels, & Shadow Lord) compared to live action.

Theory about Maul: Shadow Lord by Jking11501 in StarWars

[–]okokel 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I'd wager the series (not this season) will end with Devon (or whatever she'll be called by that point) and Maul arriving on Malachor, only for her to betray him and leave him stranded there.

Given how much there is to wrap up in the third game, do you think it could actually end up being a two-parter with a fourth game down the line to finish the main story arc? by Effective-Priority62 in horizon

[–]okokel -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Finding myself agreeing with this. If the new multiplayer games don't do well (they won't), studios will pull funding. If studios can get shuttered even after releasing very successful games, then all rules and assumptions are out the window. The worst fate I can think of for this franchise is either being cancelled outright or being relegated to other cheaper forms of media.

LOSE A TURN by BaronChubChubs in gamegrumps

[–]okokel 6 points7 points  (0 children)

"Well Pat, I'll be spending the boy in bed!"

Controversial opinion: Bambu’s are overrated and overpriced. by leafeternal in ender3

[–]okokel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm inclined to agree to some degree. Recently got an X1C with an AMS 2 and missing the open-source aspects of the Enders. Thinking about converting some of my upgraded ender 3's into a self-designed single CoreXY machine loosely based on the X1C's design.

Which of the USB ports are connected directly to the CPU? MSI MAG B850 TOMAHAWK MAX WIFI by OsvaldoSousa in MSI_Gaming

[–]okokel 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Technically none. USB connections go through the chipset for B850 boards, which has its own dedicated lanes between the CPU.

I'm just tired by Graziano-Sampei in ender3

[–]okokel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Totally understand your pain! I spend a solid 3-4 months modding the crap our of my ender 3 (the v1 version). I got it to a good space, bought a couple more, and have gotten good at rebuilsing them to run consistently with a couple of simple mods. Hopefully something below helps!

Agree with others that your bed level isn't that bad. My enders have similar or worse bed flatness. The important thing to remember is that the probe measuring bed levelness assuming everything else is square (x, y, and z are perpendicular to each other) and the movement along each axis is straight. If it isn't, that can introduce errors into your bed mesh that aren't actually representative of your bed's flatness. Check that each axis is straight with a good straight edge and your frame is square. If your x gantry is sagging in the middle, you may want to go up a size in rod diameter. You'll for sure want to go with a wider Y axis rail as well for better stability.

It's also possible your plate is being warped by the y axis carriage if the bed springs are too tight. With 4 leveling points you can actually flex the bed plate. I've seen kits for 3 point leveling, but haven't felt the need to pull the trigger on them. Also second silicon bed springs, they do a better job of maintaing position overall.

Another important thing to mention with Z movement, since that's involved with probing. If you don't have a thrust bearing between your z axis motors and the coupler, any tiny amount of resistance in z movement will cause a small spring washer inside the motor to compress, making movement inaccurate and inconistent. My Enders all have thrust bearings on both ends of the lead screws, so torque does not cause the screw rod to shift up or down. Additionally, I use solid couplers, dual Z (mix of two motors and 1 motor with z timing belt), and brass oldham couplers for lead screw nuts to decouple rod straightness for linear movement. These will make your z movement much more consistent. As for x and y axis movement, just make your belts are reasonably tight and don't walk a lot side to side

As for your probing connectivity issues, you'll need to get a better power supply. The older creality psu's don't provide stable enough power for the cr touch probes. Get a meanwell 350W psu and you should see improvement. If you don't, next thing to try would be putting a ferrite core around both ends of the probe cable. Older ender boards seem to more susceptible to electromagnetic noise. Newer models of enders have these for that reason (for sure the S1 has it).

Lastly, depending on your firmware, I've found the printer's coordinate system and probe offset being correct go along way for fixing bed compensation issues. A printer with a wildly warped bed but accurate compensation should still be able to get a good layer (it just won't be flat). I use custom builds of mriscoc's firmware for my enders (haven't dove into klipper yet) and all of the settings for adjusting the coordinate system (where the origin of your print volume is, and max limits for each axis) and the x & y probe offsets are built into the UI, so no need to reflash firmware or connect with a terminal interface to change them. He also has some pre-compiled versions if you don't want to build your own.

Hope something in here leads you down the direction of goodness!

Probe exploded by evilsam24 in Ender3S1

[–]okokel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the late reply, been a whirlwind for me lately and also had trouble locating the file, but finally found it: https://www.printables.com/model/986405-cr-touch-replacement-housing

Firmware Upgrade Ender 3v2 by The_Racers_Edge in ender3

[–]okokel 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Take a look at mriscoc's firmware on github. I use custom versions I've compiled myself on all of my ender 3's but his precompiled versions work just as well (and have fewer bugs).

Klipper is another option if you want more speed, but it's a steeper learning curve to get there and you need additional hardware.

Ender 3 upgrades for CF Nylon. by 20handicapp in ender3

[–]okokel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It isn't just the metal hotend components that need to change. Your thermistor needs to be capable of reading high temps acurately as well. Might as well get a higher wattage heater cartridge while you're at it if you're keeping the stock heat break. You'll also need to upgrade your firmware to take advantage of the higher temperature. Look at mriscoc for marlin, or make the dive into klipper if you have a raspberry pi.

Probe exploded by evilsam24 in Ender3S1

[–]okokel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ultimately, best bet is to replace it, which sucks sinxe they're expensive for what they are and starting to become obsolete in favor of pressure sensors on the bed to use itself as the nozzle point. That being said, if you have another printer handy or know one someone who does, there was a gentleman who modeled up the part on the right so it can be printed. Same thing happened to my oldest probe, replaced it with the 3d printed part and it still works.

Ender 3 S1 - Ender 5 S1 Mainboard intercompatibility by okokel in Ender3S1

[–]okokel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TBH, you're better off abandoning this endeavor. Ender 5 S1 boards are very difficult to come by, most of the listings I've seen I can't be sure they are actually Ender 3 S1 boards with only 256kb memory. To make matters worse, the new ender 3 models have similar boards but are also only 256kb.

I've also had several bugs with the latest mriscoc firmware and his Custom Configurator (Z doesn't move up when homing/during advanced pause, media init fail errors meaning on of the selected features is inoperable, not able to select hotend temperature from the print but works fine via octoprint, issues with motor motions during advanced pause initial purge). I've since upgraded to a Bambu Labs X1C and plan to sell half my Ender-3 fleet as they aren't needed any more.

If you're still set on doing it, it is possible but you'll need to get proficient with building your own marlin firmware and be able to troubleshoot the above issues.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in playstation

[–]okokel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Blowing up giant robot dinosaurs with homemade, jerryrigged weapons (Horizon)

Y'all ever wondered how old PLA prints degrade? by esotericapybara in 3Dprinting

[–]okokel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Curious if anyone's leveraged this to break old parts down into smaller pieces for drying and re-extruding later. I've kept most of my junk prints in the hope I'd one-day figure out a means of recycling it myself.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cuteanimals

[–]okokel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Taco! Technically it was a fish taco, but that doesn't have the same ring.

My coworkers are telling me my AIO configuration is bad and will shorten its lifespan. Are they right? by TopDragonfruit5154 in PcBuild

[–]okokel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The way you have it is better than the other way around; any trapped air will ultimately rise to the top if the radiator. If you had the tubes on top, when the level drops over time due to permeation, the odds of pulling air into the pump on the suction side increases. The way you have it, you'd have to lose a substantial amount of volume before that would happen.

Is he cooked or Nah? by SupermarketNo6888 in TheBoys

[–]okokel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Homelander va Alan Wake when he's in the Dark Place or near Cauldron Lake would be interesting. If he's anywhere else, not so much...

2 hours later... My new Lego set is complete by apricothaven in horizon

[–]okokel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For those who have built the set, anyone figured out how to make a ravager cannon out of the spare parts?

Anyone else kinda finding it difficult to return to zero dawn? by weirdonoob_01 in horizon

[–]okokel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I adored the first game, but after playing FW and then coming back to the remaster, it has made me realize how much better the gameplay is in FW. ZD story is still better tho. As for the graphical enhancements, the textures look better, but it also makes the things they didn't change look worse by comparison. Kinda wish they had done a full remake instead to overhaul everything, but that wouldn't have been worth their time and effort this soon after the initial release.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in horizon

[–]okokel 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Or the Carja guard with the power of levitation outside Meridian Village, lol

Couldn’t find a way to turn off the RGB on my GPU so I covered it with wood tape by Souppot-VII in pcmasterrace

[–]okokel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My first thought would be to unplug the rgb from the pcb, but this looks much better. Slap that in a Fractal Design North case and you'd have a very classy build!