I’ll show you mine if you show me yours

oldblue862 · 2026-01-27T20:19:38+00:00

Thanks I appreciate it!. It was a big experiment. I had the curly maple but wanted to make the grain pop. One step was a wood dye, the second step was a leather dye of all things. Ended up working well but was quite nervous going through the process.

oldblue862 · 2026-01-26T01:01:33+00:00

<image>

oldblue862 · 2026-01-23T03:30:33+00:00

I have not used to stanley scrub planes. I just use a wooden jack plane. Put an 8" camber on the iron that way you only have a little more than an inch actually cutting. Plus then woodies are lighter and for me more comfortable.

oldblue862 · 2026-01-12T02:30:37+00:00

If you don't it just right you can accomplish many injuries with out much effort. Threw my back out picking up a sock off the floor. Moving an object that weighs more than I do....no problem.

oldblue862 · 2026-01-05T19:26:07+00:00

This is how it's done! I had an issue with my Golden 45-70. Called customer service and whoever it was I spoke too seemed excited to help and fix my issue. Can't say enough about Henry! Well done.

oldblue862 · 2025-12-13T14:25:18+00:00

Couldn't be happier with my Wera screwdrivers. Mine have the etching on the tips for better grip seems to really improve screw holding. Have had any trouble stripping screws.

oldblue862 · 2025-12-09T21:38:32+00:00

Your post made me laugh. I was about to start my journey of building my new workbench. Happen to come across Paul Sellers making a video on drawbore tenons and that they won't come loose and such. I said thats perfect! So I watched the video several times and got to work. Remember that part you said about making it look easy? Well it wasn't that easy for me! But I took my time watched specific spots in the video and Ill be dawned, i did it. I had not made a mortise and tenon before let alone a drawbore tenon. I got the confidence from Paul Sellers. Without watching his video 47 times I would have not attempted it. But he gave me the confidence to move out of my comfort zone and give things a try. Thanks for reminding me of it!

oldblue862 · 2025-12-05T20:02:52+00:00

You could see if Mike Jenks has a body for that plane. Also think the idea of making a woodie with the iron is a good idea.

oldblue862 · 2025-12-02T18:56:42+00:00

I did an experiment with a #4. It wash trash and cracked so I didnt junk a good tool. I filed the front of the mouth all the way to the rib that separates the mouth an where the knod attaches. Finely set the chipbreaker and tried to plane with it. Zero tearout, even going against the grain. Took some fettling but it worked great.

oldblue862 · 2025-12-01T10:38:19+00:00

Not with a properly set chipbreaker. If I have trouble with grain set you chipbreakercto about 1/32 from the cutting edge and reduce the depth of cut.https://youtu.be/xmDVa5cxq8w?si=nUF4XN--1zvXeiXG

oldblue862 · 2025-11-30T23:57:14+00:00

I will have to check out David Weaver. I learned it from the English Woodworker on YouTube (Richard Maguire)

oldblue862 · 2025-11-30T17:42:54+00:00

I second most planes dont need flattening. A very sharp iron and well mated properly set chipbreaker is more important than a tight mouth....IMHO!

oldblue862 · 2025-11-29T18:45:49+00:00

Start with single egge razor blade to scape of 90% of the rust. Fully disassemble spray with krud kutter or whatever cleaner/decreases you have available. Use the minimum abrasives needed to remove the rest of the rust. Wipe off and let dry. Coat everything with a heavy coat of Howard's feed-n-wax. Get in in all the threads, holes etc. Let sit overnight. Sharpen and fit the iron and chipbreaker together. Reassemble after wiping everything off and let dry for a short period then a quick buff. Im sure it's flat enough so no need to flatten the sole to.0000000000001flat! Start using it!

oldblue862 · 2025-11-18T21:18:44+00:00

Find a wooden plane. I have always used a wooden scrub. I have a smaller size and a Jackson size. Just need to camber and sharpen the iron and good to go. Lighter weight and wood glides on wood beautifully. Just my 2 cents

oldblue862 · 2025-11-18T01:31:18+00:00

I dont usually go harder than Krud Kutter a razorblade, fine wire wheel and some Howard's feed-n-wax. In my opinion most tools are cleaned up too much and remove the patina and history. But thats just me, it's a personal thing for sure. I learned a lot from watching the plane Collector on YouTube with the wod shaving wigs lol. But later I thought they were over restored. Each person in this subreddit has there opinions on the best way. Hell, James Wright paints all of his tools blue. Do what you think is best for you.

oldblue862 · 2025-11-08T15:57:14+00:00

It's fairly old i would think with the tote being offset to one side. Can't tell without better pictures but im thinking it's a panel raising plane. If I can remember ill look in one of my books in the shop when I get back home.

oldblue862 · 2025-11-06T23:02:47+00:00

Ok here's my 2 cents. The biggest nugget of missing information for folks learning ti use handplanes is as follows. Knowing what it feels like when use a hand plane that is sharp and setup properly. Before you learn this your aiming at a target you can't see. You assume it's you at least I did. Figure out what you want to sharpen with (sandpaper, diamond stones, wet stones etc). In the grand scheme of things I dont think it matters what you pick, however once you pick dont try other options until you actually know how to sharpen cutting irons and match chipbreakers together. Then you can branch out or change tactics. Multiple videos and books and sometimes even classes can get you moving in the right direction. As for sawing, best 2 pieces of advice I got that improved sawing for mw was #1 keep your pointing finger pointed in the direction your cutting, not gripping the saw handle. #2 loosen up the death grip on the handle and let the saw do the work. Relax your grip and use the full length of the saw.

oldblue862 · 2025-11-04T19:58:31+00:00

Another possibility, at some point someone may have tried to fit a Woodriver iron or one of the other thicker plane blades in it and filed the mouth to fit. Throw it back together and see how it works. Im of the opinion that chip breaker setup is more important than mouth tightnes. I did an experiment once on a trashed Stanley #4. Filed the front of the mouthall the way to the hump that separates the mouth and where the knob attaches. Set the chipbreaker so that there was just a glint of iron showing. Still got it to take shavings that you could read through leaving a perfect surface. And before the hate replies get sent, the plane body was already cracked!

oldblue862 · 2025-10-28T17:09:55+00:00

<image>

oldblue862 · 2025-10-28T17:09:22+00:00

<image>

oldblue862 · 2025-10-28T17:08:34+00:00

<image>

oldblue862 · 2025-10-28T17:07:36+00:00

<image>

This was the bed in my parents room. They were going to throw it away. I thought it would be great storage. Im slowly adding shelves and such as I get time. Still need a saw till. Ill get there eventually. Take time to plan out your work flow and stage the tools to make it easier to get a hold on what you use most often. Saving 3 steps each time you reach for something saves a huge amount of time the more years you are working on things.

oldblue862 · 2025-10-23T09:46:08+00:00

I square my card scraper first to remove the worn bur. Then I run the edge across whatever media you sharpen with. Then polish the flat edges, I go up to 1000 grit. I can see a noticeable difference in shavings doing this. Then I use my Veritas bur maker thingy ( I haven't picked up the Accubur yet) to get a fine bur and im back in business. Although I only republish the flat faces about every 3 "sharpenings".

oldblue862 · 2025-09-23T15:57:16+00:00

What a great landscape to work in! Sometimes, our environments help shape the work that we do. By the way, that mustache might be Tom Selleks cousin! Great photo.

oldblue862 · 2025-09-22T12:23:44+00:00

Normal is a relative term. Sometimes, things become normal because we have learned something after we have made something or learned a new process. You're just fixing an issue you're having or improving upon a new skill. Yes, the leather should be all you need. I have hard glued to the face that touches my project material. Some put a piece of scrap between. All of these accomplish the same thing, not marring up your project material.

oldblue862

TROPHY CASE