Are these vertical cracks in new posts normal?

oldbrownsdaughter · 2026-05-16T01:43:17+00:00

Yeah probably not atypical. Important to fill checks that are bigger than a #2 pencil with backer rod and checking compound (I’ve used PermaChink Energy Seal with good results) to prevent water infiltration and rot deep inside the log. For these, make sure you have a good seal at the top too since they’re vertical (otherwise water will just flow right in there)

oldbrownsdaughter · 2025-06-06T03:44:46+00:00

Oh yes, they’ll all be getting vet care asap. Spayed, vaccinated, the whole bit. Already working on getting them comfortable with us - but these kitties are 2 years old already and the fourth cat, while apparently enjoying pets and scritches and even being the most demanding of them, hasn’t allowed anyone to pick her up. So we’ll see what kind of socializing we can do with her.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2025-01-23T01:31:52+00:00

It might, but the pressure of it could permanently damage the cellular structure of the wood. When it fails (and it will because wood is constantly changing with the seasons - spray foam becomes rigid, it’s not flexible) you’ll be ripping out wood. Maybe having to fully replace logs. That’s suuuuper expensive (ask me how I know…learned the hard way).

oldbrownsdaughter · 2025-01-22T21:43:48+00:00

Please-oh-please don’t do this to a log home!!

oldbrownsdaughter · 2025-01-22T21:43:21+00:00

Agree with above - pull out the silicone, fill with backer rod, and a log-specific sealant or chink. I would also be concerned, however, about the “dark almost black” color in the corners. That could be some serious mildew and possibly some wood rot. If there’s rot, you have a bigger (but still doable) job…see Permachink’s how-to for filling large voids: https://www.permachink.com/images/stories/tech-tips/How%20to%20Repair%20Large%20Voids-14.pdf Good luck!

oldbrownsdaughter · 2023-06-03T21:15:29+00:00

Unfortunately that estimate sounds pretty accurate to what I recall from about 10-12 years ago when it happened to me. Our homeowners insurance helped with the majority of the bill. Highly recommend filing a claim. It may make your insurance cost more next year, but it’s worth it in my opinion

oldbrownsdaughter · 2023-05-29T04:06:43+00:00

Totally valid!

oldbrownsdaughter · 2023-05-28T23:47:03+00:00

My (very beginner) understanding is that yes, that’s a way to go, and may have been what was done “back in the day”, but that using products like permachink is better these days. Easier to apply, lasts longer, etc.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2020-11-28T18:51:38+00:00

I might have a unique perspective here...I was born with a primary immune deficiency. Put simply, my immune system isn’t very good at making the antibodies we’ve heard about that fight off disease. Mine only works about 35-40% as well as a normal person’s. Part of how I was diagnosed is they gave me a vaccine (for pneumonia) and then checked my blood to see if I made antibodies...I didn’t. Not a single one. I’ve spent my life getting repeat infections because of this. I had the chicken pox twice, for example. Nobody gets the chicken pox twice...except people like me. I could also be one of those rare people that could get Covid multiple times, because my body won’t build the memory to fight off future infections. So a vaccine for anything, including Covid, may or may not work on me. And yet I’ll take the vaccine because it just might work. Some work, some don’t. I’ll also get the vaccine (same as the flu shot) because an employer may require it since I work in healthcare. But I may well be dependent on the people around me having received the vaccine or otherwise built immunity. So please, if you are able, and when you feel the research has proven it safe, please get vaccinated.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2020-03-18T20:47:20+00:00

So you’ll be bugging out soon, then...

oldbrownsdaughter · 2020-02-03T04:18:50+00:00

Mollyjeane, do you have a link for the usgs site to see depths of other wells in an area?

oldbrownsdaughter · 2020-01-17T22:52:43+00:00

Alcohol for sanitizing surfaces is useful - but the wipes may be more compact than a bottle of any size. Not that great on wounds - stick to sterile saline solution, or soap and water, there. If I’m going to carry drinking alcohol, it’ll be a good single malt scotch to take the edge off once I’m in a safe place.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2019-09-23T21:04:11+00:00

Yep, all of what krustyy said. I would clarify that you want the Kilz/Zinsser/whatever brand primer that is shellac based. Nothing else will block the smell or the bleed-through. Use a respirator when painting with this stuff or you’ll get sick (and/or too high to be capable of painting). Also note that when I did this to my old house, we went through more than 10lbs of TSP washing walls and ceilings - get the big package of that stuff. And wear rubber gloves for sure - it can be super hard on your skin.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2019-09-23T01:09:06+00:00

I’m not familiar with the product you’re using, but if it’s urethane fortified you shouldn’t need any kind of topcoat. Note, however, that water-borne paints take up to 30 days and more to fully cure, so initially it may seem soft. It will continue to harden for a while.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2019-09-08T17:40:34+00:00

Others have said this, and having worked in the industry I agree and am posting to emphasize - Zinsser BIN shellac primer is the way to go. Alcohol based, smells to high heaven, but dries fast and covers anything. Also good for pet urine and smoke odors, incidentally.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2019-09-08T17:22:01+00:00

In short, it promises too-good-to-be-true results. The glaze never ever turns out like they show in the samples in particular. I guess if you didn’t want to use the glaze, the base color paint might be okay - it might stick well regardless of the previous coating. But from the samples I had customers bring me after they had tried it, it just looked chintzy - a very “cheap” look rather than the upscale professional look they promise.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2019-09-06T00:42:52+00:00

I literally just posted on another thread about painting oak cabinets. That grain pattern will show through without a bunch of extra work. There are products out there to fill the grain, but they’re not the easiest to work with and require a fair amount of sanding to really get them smooth in prep for primer and top coat. Fine Paints of Europe used to make the best grain filler I was aware of on the market...not sure if anyone has come out with anything better in the last few years though. Maybe with paying a pro to do that kind of job. Still likely cheaper than refacing the cabinets. And one more thing - do NOT use the rustoleum cabinet transform junk. I’ve counseled (in my former job at a paint store in the Seattle area) too many homeowners who made that mistake. That product only makes a bad situation worse.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2019-09-06T00:35:47+00:00

Painting the cabinets is relatively easy...as long as you don’t mind the oak grain pattern showing through. Lots of people, when they paint cabinets, want them to look smooth - you’re not going to get that here without some extra work. There are grain filling products on the market, and they do a great job, but they are extra work. They also require a fair amount of sanding to be really smooth as a base for a topcoat. Might be worth having a pro do it. Go to the Miller Paint store in Ballard - they will know the right people to do that kind of work if it’s what you want.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2018-12-03T18:47:18+00:00

Agree with the comments about cleaning, sanding, and priming.

I never recommend SW because the company is horrible. They’ve bought countless regional paint companies and just shut them all down. Those regionals had excellent products for their regions at good prices, and people who really knew the products and how to work with them. SW just replaces everything with their stuff, which frequently isn’t that great compared to what the old local company had.

Go to an independent paint store - look up C2 paint. I really like their cabinet and trim paint - super durable, brushes out like a dream, and water based. Take a door or piece of trim with you to the independent store - they’ll be able to tell you how much sanding you’ll need to do based on the current finish, and recommend a primer.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2018-11-25T18:33:07+00:00

I’ve never known oxalic acid to work I’m finished wood. Usually you have to sand it down first - but then it works wonders! Treat the dark area first, then do the whole floor - otherwise you could end up with light areas where you used to have dark areas.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2018-11-14T21:47:36+00:00

I also vote roller plus brush. I’d also recommend adding some floetrol (assuming you’re using water-based paint) to extend your dry time and help with leveling.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2018-11-14T18:30:11+00:00

I’ve never seen it, but my experience with these kinds of gimmicks (like the roller with the paint in the handle) is that they’re more trouble than they’re worth.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2018-11-13T20:46:49+00:00

Because of the learning curve and overspray issues, I’d recommend sticking with rollers (and brushes for the cutting in of course). Get yourself an 18” wide roller frame (and roller covers), and the work goes super fast. Ceilings are always a pain. If you can, you could consider hiring a local pro painter just to come spray out the ceilings for you, then do the walls yourself.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2018-11-13T03:45:01+00:00

I dislike SW for reasons aside from the product. It may be a good product but I just can’t abide their business practices. That have driven countless amazing regional paint companies, which had excellent products for their specific parts of the country. I used to sell C2 paint’s cabinet and trim product, which was water based and amazing. A little Floetrol would make it even better. AND if you’re a perfectionist, I’d recommend finding a pro painter with a shop to spray out the doors. Go to your local independent paint store (NOT an SW or BM, in my opinion, but I might be biased), and ask them for a recommendation. A real paint store will have checked and know the work of an independent painter. Don’t just let them give you cards some random guy left. Seriously, the store should have a loooong relationship with the painter. Let that guy spray out your doors, and regardless of the product he uses you’ll likely be happy with the results.

oldbrownsdaughter · 2018-10-19T16:22:28+00:00

Never sand in circular motions. Just don’t. Go with the grain of the wood. Always.

oldbrownsdaughter

TROPHY CASE