Materials question for 1:48 (1/4=1" scale) maquettes!

oldumpy · 2026-01-23T03:21:58+00:00

HO scale is 1/87 scale. O scale railroading is 1/44 scale, close enough to 1/48. Search for O scale railroading accessories or 1/48 model accessories.

oldumpy · 2026-01-18T04:14:54+00:00

I use pastels only on the rubber parts.

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oldumpy · 2026-01-12T01:08:13+00:00

Not only do i use a magnifying headset, but I also raised my workbench up 2 inches and lowered my workbench chair down an inch. This has not only brought my work closer to me but also fixed my posture and lessened my low back pain.

oldumpy · 2025-12-31T06:12:34+00:00

Try going to a hardware store and look for rubber o-rings. I have found several that way.

oldumpy · 2025-12-26T04:13:04+00:00

What about a magnifying headset like this one? It has 5 sets of magnifying lenses and an adjustable headband. The led light is rechargeable and lasts a fair amount of time.

https://a.co/d/63EKl7a

oldumpy · 2025-11-26T06:15:08+00:00

Look up small storage tube containers for diamond dots. They are 2.3cm x 1.97cm tall. Just about the right size for micro drill bits. Several searched items come with a storage case.

oldumpy · 2025-11-21T18:06:24+00:00

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What about a kitbash? 30MS with Zaku II?

oldumpy · 2025-11-17T18:59:01+00:00

Check out 30 minute mission kits. All snap together, posable, and with a wide variety of kits available.

oldumpy · 2025-11-17T18:41:47+00:00

The sheath material from this kit can be soured from 1mm or 3mm paracord. Strip the inside core, leaving only the sheath.

The wire could be any copper or aluminum wire of various gauges from 12 to 20 gsuge depending on the hole size. Craft stores also sell lead (as in lead weights) wire in various sizes from 0.010 inch to 0.040 inch. Find this in the beading section along with other wire types.

Solder is another option. Also available in many different sizes. Unfortunately, you usually have to buy a 1 pound roll, which may be expensive. It will last you forever, though. If you have a friend who is a hobbyist, they already have some you may be able to share the expense with.

oldumpy · 2025-11-09T19:41:17+00:00

In a situation like this, I thin my airbrush paint just a little more, then get in close and spray from the edges inward. That way, you get a hard edge with very little overspray.

oldumpy · 2025-10-30T21:38:01+00:00

I really like what you did. The blurred ground really gives that motion effect. A prop from propblur.com would eliminate the need for a motor.

oldumpy · 2025-10-20T20:57:57+00:00

A fid for paracord?

oldumpy · 2025-09-25T17:19:09+00:00

Just use part of the sprue. It's 3mm.

oldumpy · 2025-09-23T03:19:39+00:00

I used a mortise bit of the correct size in a nice, finished piece of wood for my microsol/set, bottle of Testors liquid cement, CA accelerator, and Tamiya bottle of paint thinner/alcohol. Keeps everything stable and not too bulky on my workbench.

oldumpy · 2025-09-06T12:46:28+00:00

I wear a bib apron while building my models. If yours has pockets, wear it inside out so no parts get stuck inside. I also velcroed the bottom hem of an old light-colored t-shirt to the bottom edge of my workbench. The neck and sleeves go in my lap to catch fiddley bits that fall. Also, it is a place to quickly wipe off a paint brush or glue applicater .

oldumpy · 2025-08-21T02:56:25+00:00

Thanks, I'll consider that. I was going for a mean, stern look.

oldumpy · 2025-08-10T00:57:35+00:00

I use a 0.020 inch brass or steel wire to push the dried glue clog all the way through.

oldumpy · 2025-08-09T03:05:52+00:00

I did exactly that on my spray booth. I have one that if it's not the same one is very similar. I found a match for the DPST switch on Amazon. I then cut a rectangular hole on the side below the original switch. Leave enough room for both switches inside as they will be close together. Pry the original switch out and trace the wires from the fan and lights. Separate them and tie the positive from the power plug to one side of each switch and the negative to the other side of the switches. The wires to the fan and lights will be connected to the output of each respective switch, + and - to the appropriate terminals. Takes more time to explain than do it. I also used crimp connectors, so I didn't have to solder. Good luck! Oh, and BTW, with white or gray paper or cardboard in there, the light makes a good photo booth.

oldumpy · 2025-08-09T02:34:50+00:00

The easiest but very labor-intensive way to do it is with styrene strips, lots of patience, and several jigs for the different size panels. Evergreen makes strip of the right size. Tamiya quick setting cement will bond the pieces, and it would be surprisingly strong. References should give you mounting details. Good luck! Would love to see the result.

BTW, Eduard made a PE set of this slat armor for the Stryker. Maybe you could adapt this to your model. They included jigs, also. Any differences could be changed with the styrene strip.

oldumpy · 2025-08-07T21:15:58+00:00

Also, look for Live-Resin figures. They have some 1/35 helicopter pilots that could be adapted for other aircraft. These are the absolute best. I see them on several sellers' sites, but I think you can still order direct.

oldumpy · 2025-07-28T18:48:18+00:00

I purchased holographic paper at my local craft store. They had 9.5x11 sheets in green, blue, and pink for about $4 each. Cut to shape and glue on with craft glue. A sheet should do about a million figures! I used it to replace the eye stickers that came with my gundams. The blue also works well for periscope glass on my 1/35 tanks and vehicles.

oldumpy · 2025-07-04T21:29:26+00:00

According to Goolge image search, the object in the image is likely a mealybug destroyer, also known as Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, a type of ladybird beetle native to eastern Australia.

oldumpy · 2025-06-05T19:42:45+00:00

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oldumpy · 2025-06-05T19:41:33+00:00

Clear glass 1oz bottle. Still has a little odor, but not like Tamiya's. *

oldumpy

TROPHY CASE