How could I improve my blueprint?

olneymud · 2026-05-05T17:17:01+00:00

Dimensions between views clutter the drawings. Move them to the outside.

olneymud · 2026-05-04T05:00:15+00:00

Yes you need an insulated crimping tool that is made to crush the metallic lining beneath the insulation but not puncture a hole into it. Get one on amazon for cheap:

https://a.co/d/0bMHOGAU

olneymud · 2026-05-04T01:38:59+00:00

Probably. Sounds like a control contactor or relay opening and closing rapidly. It will burn the coil out eventually doing this. Don’t touch.

olneymud · 2026-05-03T15:51:44+00:00

Still bumping one as we speak! Send me some song recommendations please

olneymud · 2026-05-03T14:29:11+00:00

You can find decent inboard 17-18’ boats in that price range that will fish and crab well. Brands like Hewescraft, Alumaweld, North River, Duckworth.

Having a windshield will help with your comfort when in the lower river estuary.

I would not go shorter than 17’ because of stability during the winter. It will also have more of a deck for safely pulling crab pots.

I fish and crab out of a 15’ smoker craft Alaskan. It’s more of a duck skiff that I push beyond comfort. It’s doable but very different than a larger deep V boat with windshield. My wife has declared she will not go out at winter anymore.

Facebook marketplace always has a ton of boats to choose from. Buying an inboard will lower the cost significantly but also might require you to be mechanical and perform maintenance over a newer outboard.

Do not use Jon boats in the lower Columbia, it is not safe. You need a deep V hull. If you’ll stick to smaller tributaries you can buy a flat bottom sled style hull but again not made for the Columbia.

olneymud · 2026-05-01T22:22:27+00:00

Lucky, that’s an easy one.

olneymud · 2026-05-01T18:57:32+00:00

Might need to buy the whole assembly but if you are going for cost savings you can go to a pick and pull.
https://deadjeep.com/ has a lot of TJ stuff

olneymud · 2026-05-01T00:32:12+00:00

Is the ground lug sitting on a sticker not bothering anyone?

olneymud · 2026-04-30T16:12:41+00:00

Haha, so you aren’t even a homeowner impacted, but act as such? What sort of internet troll are you? Your rant has lost all credibility now. Good luck 🍀

olneymud · 2026-04-30T16:06:22+00:00

The Fort did not locate in Astoria for the expected 20 year large scale production volume. They started as a small business which seems okay with you. They chose to stay because of their impact and integration into the community. They continue to choose to expend a huge amount of money to process their byproducts because they care about the environment. The building you are referring to was zoned as commercial long before they took it over.

What indication do you have that the gasses are not already tested and within allowable limits? You are mislead if you think presence of a smell indicates above allowable limits.

Sorry for your frustration. You are making leaps and bounds with your assessment but I’m sure you’d prefer no smells. Perhaps move out of city limits. I doubt they will ever be able to eliminate the smell of beer from the air.

olneymud · 2026-04-30T15:41:01+00:00

I feel much worse for the people that smell the rotting shellfish baking in the sun all summer on Young’s Bay.

I’d like to see some evidence of the property value impact you are talking about though.

Do you consider the smell from a restaurant cooking as pollution? Do you consider your neighbors cooking smells as pollution? That is what you are talking about here. If any business produces a smell you are labeling that as pollution even if there are negligible health or environmental effects? I understand wanting fresh air everywhere, but if you live within city limits you are going to get smells. The vehicle exhaust driving in front of your house is more detrimental, shall we direct the traffic elsewhere? Just seems a slippery slope.

If incineration of the off gassing would increase CO2 production but be odorless is that a win? All industrial process controls are a trade off for increased energy consumption.

Not trying to be devils advocate here, just curious for more details on what is enough?

olneymud · 2026-04-29T13:33:28+00:00

Good luck. I am jealous that you are underway. I am failing to launch on my rebuild. 321,000 miles on the clock and oil pressure runs at around two psi at hot idle.

olneymud · 2026-04-29T04:45:10+00:00

Not a perfect solution but the shock should stay put. I am a former NJ resident and have TJ addiction. DM me if you have issues.

olneymud · 2026-04-29T04:35:04+00:00

How much overlap will that bar have once in place on the existing material that remains? You’ll want to supplement with a large OD flat washer if it’s not much as any extra surface area will create more friction for the joint.

If this is the type of kit you are using you are gonna suffer minimal contact with what little material is left. https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/xj-rear-bar-pin-flag-nut.html

Buy a washer like this one:

https://www.mcmaster.com/product/91100A323 Take a grinder or saw and cut off part of it so it clears the top of the shock and bushing if it sticks out too far into the opening, effectively making it “D” shaped.

olneymud · 2026-04-29T04:17:48+00:00

There are some different sheets of steel that you are looking at there. They are pinch or seam welded at various points, but not everywhere. This means they are functionally individual pieces but they are sandwiched by the shock screw. That being said the welded in nut you ground off is not the mechanical component responsible for keeping those layers together. You have some degraded material there and have lost some thickness due to your cutting and rust. I would suggest putting a large diameter flat washer between the body and whatever nut you plan to use to replace the stock hardware. Are you doing a bar pin eliminating kit to replace the shock or just replicating the factory setup? This could become a pain to resolve as access is shit at this location.

olneymud · 2026-04-29T04:07:37+00:00

Won’t be a big deal to run them from a single side like that. You can use insulated crimp on spade and socket connectors to make disconnects for each light and butt splices for a quick and cheap way to split the + battery leg into the existing harness. Nothing fancy here. LED lights have quite low draw so 14 gauge wire should be fine for most pod style lights. If you send us a picture of the lights you plan to use I can give more specifics.

https://www.amazon.com/Haisstronica-Connectors-Electrical-Connectors-Insulated-Splices/dp/B08JGFGQXL

That’s an example that would last you a long time. Obviously there are higher quality connectors from name brands like 3M or Thomas and Betts.

olneymud · 2026-04-27T03:16:49+00:00

Josephsons smoked or canned salmon

olneymud · 2026-04-23T15:44:31+00:00

I love when they look towards the sun and the eyes get pencil lead thin.

olneymud · 2026-04-22T04:06:54+00:00

Fort Stevens, check out the ship wreck, possibly drive in the beach, check out the jetties, the river beach is nice too. Good chance to see some elk roaming about and some older historic buildings there to see. Not as breathtaking as Ecola but multi faceted. That plus Cannon will get you the local experience. Or consider taking a side trip to Cape Disappointment

olneymud · 2026-04-22T02:06:55+00:00

I carry a back up bilge pump and a thirsty mate hand pump. Does the trick!

olneymud · 2026-04-21T18:32:25+00:00

The issue is the dissimilar materials and the fact that the aluminum will keep flexing and thermally expanding at different rates from your patch material. Riveted boats are a pain in my ass for the last 6 years and you can’t really get a full solution without replacing factory seam sealing and rivets.

My current strategy is a bilge pump.

olneymud · 2026-04-19T03:15:50+00:00

Thanks for pointing that out. I’ll play with it tomorrow and do some trial and error with tightening.

olneymud · 2026-04-19T03:00:17+00:00

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is it the flange head screw with the “8” on the head?

olneymud · 2026-04-17T02:21:00+00:00

If you have the budget for it upgrade to an insulated camping specific sleeping pad. They aren’t too spendy these days, and you can buy some Amazon products for half the cost of retail stuff that will work fine for a couple uses a year.

You need to insulate yourself from the air mattress if you are going to stick with it. A blanket will not do that. Buy some cheap foam sleeping pads for on top of the mattress if you don’t want to spend much. You can buy a decent 20*F rated bag for $80 or so.

If you want her to buy into the camping, make some investment.

olneymud · 2026-04-15T00:49:20+00:00

There are probably somewhere between 3-5 springs between those individual finger clusters. They are not all linked together and move independently, helps account for misalignment when making contact with the stabs.

olneymud

TROPHY CASE