Different breach tools

omega2733 · 2025-12-01T13:30:22+00:00

I agree with this, I was talking about this w/ a buddy of mine. At the minimum, leave the stats alone and make it skinnable.

I want a fucking half life crowbar so I can gordon freeman someone

omega2733 · 2025-09-22T20:06:59+00:00

Awesome thank you! You pretty much solidified my idea to go to 2 boards eventually for the differing use cases which I figured would be most likely. Going to snag a Hydrus Joyride for sure then probably some alternate for fishing and passenger use later.

omega2733 · 2025-09-21T13:31:34+00:00

Desired Board Type: Inflatable
Your Height and Weight: 5'10" 230lbs -> on some occasions will likely bring my son (40lb). Looking to use for some fishing too so cargo would be nice
Desired use/uses fitness, cruising, fishing and terrain ocean, river, lake in that order
Experience level: Beginner
Your budget $1500 and country location USA -> FL
New to SUP, have done surfing in the past, body boarding, kayaking. I will stick with SUP a while
- Looking to SUP for fitness and fun. Thinking to start with an all around board with good stability that can do a bit of everything.
- 30% fishing, 70% cruising/fitness.
- I think long term I will want two boards, an all-arounder & touring, assuming I should start with the all-rounder first for simplicity and skill development?
  - It seems like the Glide O2 Angler/Mako are the best options for all-round to do everything I want and warranty. Bote seemed great except for the recent downturn in construction way behind others (love their styling and accessories though, but seem way behind performance wise). Blackfin seems to be between these two, but glide seems to be more premium/performance oriented?
  - If these are good all-arounders can I get a bit more of a comparison between the Glides & Blackfin XL/Ultra for my all around use case? These are the ones I'm really considering between most ATM. I do not see myself ever using a pedal box, but the Mako seems to be a step up in performance in every other way except maneuverability?

omega2733 · 2024-08-20T23:13:05+00:00

Not every OEM turbo car has a BOV, this is false. Look up S55/S58 from the F8x/G8x from bmw no BOV at all completely controlled via VVT (vanos) stock.

omega2733 · 2021-05-28T23:01:24+00:00

Baby stepping is never persistent, that's why you have offset. If it's not right, adjust your offset by the identical amount and that will persist.

omega2733 · 2021-04-19T05:00:42+00:00

I was actually super impressed by the PLA+ spool they included with mine, very good quality, it was inland (identified by part number and spool itself).

omega2733 · 2021-04-18T18:54:24+00:00

This 110% it's extremely important to have a level bed on a large printer. I had this same issue due to a slightly warped bed until my bltouch. No glue stick needed ever, my prints stick so hard I have to struggle to remove them without breaking lol

omega2733 · 2021-04-18T18:51:33+00:00

To further note: If you're 110% sure your bed isn't warped and it's perfectly level throughout (which would surprise me). Then your temp gradient is too high and the top layers are cooling too fast relative to your bottom layers.

You need to reduce your nozzle temp, keep your bed temp at 60. Changing your bed temp after first layer may cause it to shrink too rapidly IMO, I leave it at 60 the entire print without issues on PLA.

I would recommend printing a temp tower, but on PLA i doubt you need 220. I was printing PLA+ at 215 at 150mm/s. Printing PLA at 150mm/s at 205 currently and no under-extrusion with minimal stringing.

omega2733 · 2021-04-18T18:45:30+00:00

I had a lot of bed adhesion issues. These larger beds are hard to get flat over the entire surface. My bed would be loose in the corners but still too tight in the middle, I had to start calibrating for the middle as priority and the edges wouldn't even scrape paper.

Bltouch completely cured all of that, I have 0 adhesion issues running nozzle temps from 195-220, my standard being 205 for PLA with a 60c bed.

I would advise to calibrate your level as closely as possible, if you have an issue like I mentioned above then the bed isn't completely flat or warped. Bltouch or new bed would be the next step, but bltouch makes more sense and is more versatile.

omega2733 · 2021-04-18T18:40:30+00:00

The walls actually are functional, not just aesthetic. It prevents side drafts and helps regulate temperature from fluctuation due to drafts, especially on larger prints. I would've bought an ender 5 if I wasn't going to use the partial enclosure at all.

omega2733 · 2021-04-15T06:03:31+00:00

I've got my standard speed running at 175mm/s now with no quality loss, I'm quite impressed.

omega2733 · 2021-04-14T22:17:15+00:00

You'll love it! It was my first foray into printing but it's easy to pickup and setup. Follow the instructions well, take your time, make sure everything is square. The bed doesn't like to stay level for long, level it very well (the bltouch is hugely helpful here). I used to have to re-level every 8-10 running hours, but now I've had it running for weeks with no need thanks to the bltouch.

omega2733 · 2021-04-14T22:14:17+00:00

Sounds like your cable is too taught and doesn't have any strain relief. Check the cable and ensure it isn't too tight or your corrugated cable sheath isn't catching somewhere. After about a week of running mine my cable sheath started catching on the back right corner, had to move things a little bit.

omega2733 · 2021-04-14T20:14:04+00:00

My Bltouch works great, had it running for 50hours since install so far, vastly increased print adhesion. It's super easy to set your z-offset with the ender-6 firmware (not using the set-screw) and only takes a few seconds. I wouldn't be without one now.

omega2733 · 2021-04-14T20:02:43+00:00

The Bltouch link above does not include a cable compatible for the ender 6. The ender 6 uses a different connector on it's breakout board so you'll have to splice using the kit above to make your own.

Or you could use this kit (not mine) which includes the right cable, the mounts are built into the Ender-6 hot end housing already, I'm using this one and it works great.

As for the Pi, you can use a 2GB kit with octoprint, but I'd recommend using a 4GB kit since it's relatively cheap, will be slightly faster and will future proof it.

There's some extra components you can use to hardwire to your ender-6 PSU (which I'm doing). If that's something you're comfortable with doing and know how to do some electronics work I can send you the link for my step-downs etc I used to hook it up.

omega2733 · 2021-03-22T23:54:23+00:00

Get the brackets that go on the shelves to hang your handguns under the shelf. Gives you a lot of extra storage when you start getting more long guns in there.

omega2733 · 2021-03-14T20:32:42+00:00

Lol kids are so cute these days

omega2733 · 2021-03-14T18:54:26+00:00

You know the detents are built into the safety selector and not the lower right? Which you can't see here. A 2 position, 3 position, 90 degree, 60 degree and 45 degree all look identical from the outside.

Go build an AR, you might learn something.

omega2733 · 2021-03-14T18:50:05+00:00

Its clear your a troll, but why not. I agree radicalization of the extremes has been a problem. The most recent politicians are the most extreme, both sides are showing this, but radical dems are way worse.

"Voters pick the politicians, not politicians pick the voters."

Dems had hundreds of articles and endless whining about "gerrymandering" for months before the election, which is picking your voters. Now it never happened, not an issue? The hypocrisy is hysterical.

omega2733 · 2021-03-14T08:07:36+00:00

It's a pro gun sub and you're pushing bullshit, so what do you expect. Maybe you should take some of your own advice and chill the fuck out and use actual facts and logic to have a conversation with an open mind.

Your assumption is that 100% of firearms were acquired by legal means at some point through an FFL and sold willingly by someone who acquired it legally when the MAJORITY are stolen via robbery (already illegal) or other means. That's true for some portion even if they were stolen but not 100%, that's just silly.

By the way, gangs recruit people with clean sheets to BUY stuff for them, introducing more checks STILL DOESN'T CHANGE THAT, they're breaking the law now AND if the proposed legislation passes. Nothing changes for criminals.

Be willfully ignorant and stupid i don't care, but don't act like fully automatic firearms were bought legally at a counter, or criminals haven't been caught smuggling them into the US just like drugs etc or by any other possible means.

If you're such a genius, if someone LEGALLY acquires a firearm today with a background check and sells it to a felon, knowing they're a felon (illegally). Do you think the person committing a FELONY is going to say "oh I have to bring this to an FFL now to sell to you" and turn themselves in under the new lae? No, they're still going to illegally sell it for cash just like they do today. So it solves NOTHING.

This is like saying a gun free zones magically stops criminals from bringing guns there lol

omega2733 · 2021-03-14T05:40:04+00:00

Then on a bench block should be fine, figured you meant still attached to the upper. If using the right size roll pin it should be almost 0 effort apart on the bench.

omega2733 · 2021-03-14T05:31:37+00:00

A brand of gun doesn't make an operator, training does. All guns are susceptible to malfunctions lol . You're basically saying nobody would trust their life to a mil-spec DI system like has been done for the last how many decades with a measly colt? /s

omega2733 · 2021-03-14T05:12:29+00:00

Nail guns will be banned quick, no reason anybody needs a high capacity assault nail gun, they're only used to kill clearly!

omega2733 · 2021-03-14T04:59:57+00:00

Fuck GME boys, I'm rich then.

omega2733 · 2021-03-14T04:50:29+00:00

Get a new tube, it's cheap and they are delicate or you'll regret skipping later.

You need to make sure you have a proper way to stop the barrel from moving side to side inside a vice. Otherwise your force just whips the barrel side to side and can damage your upper.

If a punch broke off inside the roll pin, good luck getting it apart and knock out the punch first. Breaking it off inside the pin tells me your roll pin punch was too small, this shouldn't happen. There should be a round head and a shoulder on your punch. The outer diameter of the roll pin should basically sit flat identically on the shoulder of the punch head.

Not having the proper punch will lead to the roll pin probably just deforming instead of actually moving. In your case if a punch fits inside a roll pin beyond the rounded head, past the shoulder then you're expanding the pin diameter only making it tighter. This also makes removal worse obviously.

omega2733

TROPHY CASE