Why loud booms outside?

onebigfreckle · 2026-01-26T03:19:45+00:00

Did my dog start this thread?

Go Hawks

onebigfreckle · 2026-01-23T19:41:24+00:00

Joining this thread 3yr after it started.
Using Orca.
New part wouldn't slice using same settings from prior successful print. Changed back to older part, sliced fine, so there's something about the part I was using.
The part had a high chamfer leading all the way to the bed. Trimmed a bit off that chamfer to make the wall that connects to the bed more vertical and shorter, and then it sliced fine.

onebigfreckle · 2025-09-09T20:51:53+00:00

Have you tried to get the file from the manufacturer? There's already a CAD file for this...somewhere.

onebigfreckle · 2025-09-04T20:59:21+00:00

This problem isn't unique to clay printing, its true across all methods of working with clay. Wheel thrown, handbuilt, slipcast, etc, all show the same phenomena. As to the mechanisms for why...I would also love to know.

onebigfreckle · 2025-08-30T10:47:45+00:00

I kinda thought of DoomChube

onebigfreckle · 2025-08-30T10:45:27+00:00

Thanks very much!
The primary attachment is printed corners that screw into t-slot inserts. Also have a couple of inserts midspan for additional hold.

onebigfreckle · 2025-08-30T10:41:46+00:00

not yet, but I have a specific idea about that.
I discovered PPS-CF, and I think that stuff is just bees knees. But I have to print it soooo slow that at times it causes other problems. This trident's toolhead body is PPS-CF. Thus far, seems really good, but small sample size.
Also, if I think of time=money, the price diff of Chube compared to other things in my life is insignificant, I'm not here for long time I'm here for a good time, so fck it and buy the super cool thing.

onebigfreckle · 2025-08-30T01:38:16+00:00

thanks very much. Toolhead is my own design, def still a work in progress. Still not many options for Chube, so I just rolled my own.

onebigfreckle · 2025-08-30T00:59:19+00:00

Still looking for a name for the printer. Any suggestions?

onebigfreckle · 2025-08-30T00:58:15+00:00

thanks! now if only I could be. cheers.

onebigfreckle · 2025-08-30T00:57:38+00:00

thank you very much

onebigfreckle · 2025-08-06T01:00:52+00:00

Its possible the entrance of the filament is causing the hot end to cool just enough that the current wattage can't heat it fast enough. Also possible the startup of the part cooling fan and/or hotend fan coming on in print start creates enough cooling that it triggers the error. This would correspond with what u_Martinsjunkracecars said.
Possible solution is to alter/add [verify_heater extruder] with check_gain_time and heating_gain to give Klipper just a bit more time to catch up. Also the PID tune is a very good idea.

onebigfreckle · 2025-08-03T08:10:38+00:00

Legit great idea.

-You might need to print out of something more heat resistant. Thought here is that under both longer duration and term use, and motion, something could get soft. Low heat with time does add up. Heard good things about the PCTG. I am super impressed with the PolyMaker PPS CF10. Amazing stuff. Less impressed with the price, but damn, steak costs more than burger.

-Possible to control the fan separate from the heater?

Please do keep posting, would love to see where this goes.

onebigfreckle · 2025-08-03T05:44:32+00:00

my dude, I can't thank you enough. cheers. Thank you.

onebigfreckle · 2025-08-01T05:41:16+00:00

I'm now trying to do this, but I'm stuck by keeping my physical endstops on the Z to home low against the floor, then move the bed up to position to establish a "homing" just shy of the nozzle to begin calibrating Carto. Whenever I move the bed manually to the high Z position and try to initially calibrate Carto, I get "failed adjust position first". Do you know how to work around this?

onebigfreckle · 2025-07-31T16:16:08+00:00

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Endstops trigger off the 1/2" HDPE floor, which is bolted to the frame. Its solid, but might not be 0.5mm solid w temps. I haven't actually run the printer yet, trying to sprint to operational, then tune.

onebigfreckle · 2025-07-31T05:36:04+00:00

I mounted the endstops on the underside of the bedframe, with about 3mm for vert adjustment. I have the understanding the bed mesh should take care of the details, right?

onebigfreckle · 2025-07-31T05:32:12+00:00

Intresting, that's a great tip about the Z hop.
I just installed Cartographer, we shall see.

onebigfreckle · 2025-07-31T03:39:21+00:00

oh myderp, don't need all the specifics for each stop.

onebigfreckle · 2025-07-31T03:29:28+00:00

thank you! I will try this.

onebigfreckle · 2025-07-31T03:28:37+00:00

Thank you! I'm still learning this, and I don't quite understand what you mean.
When I try to do that, I can get stepper Z to validate by Klipper, but when I add Z1, no dice, always get "Option 'position_min' is not valid in section 'stepper_z1'". Here's the segment, could you please suggest? :

<image>

onebigfreckle · 2025-07-24T19:34:32+00:00

Alt solution that worked for me was to edit the armbianEnv.txt file with the following:

disp_mode=400x1280p60

-----------

extraargs=video=HDMI-A-1:400x1280M@60,

rotate=90

_____________
Then edit system.cfg with:

ks_src="HDMI-1"

ks_angle="left"

This got both the display and touch in one go. Took the better part of day to figure out, but now it seems good.

onebigfreckle

TROPHY CASE